Club Corner
WOM October 2026 | A Toast to Alsace
Maison Kuentz-Bas was first established by the Kuentz family in 1795, and the domaine as we know it today was forged through a marriage that joined the Kuentz and Bas families in 1895. Nestled in the town of Husseren-les-Châteaux, it sits at one of the highest points in Alsace, and the vineyards stretch out from the village over an area of ten hectares. More than two hundred years of tradition and vineyard pedigree have made these wines perennial favorites, with the grand crus of Eichberg and Pfersigberg earning the highest esteem. However, when the family sold the property to famed vigneron Jean-Baptiste Adam in 2004, many wondered what direction the new team would take. Adam, like the estate’s former owners, has a reputation for being an advocate of Alsatian terroir, and he is the fourteenth generation to continue a family winemaking tradition that began as early as 1614. Eager to restore Kuentz-Bas to its former glory, Adam lowered yields significantly and reverted to natural methods, following organic and biodynamic approaches to vineyard work. Jean-Baptiste's daughter, Laure, now oversees the vinification and the domaine. Meticulous attention to detail is the defining characteristic of both the viticulture and the vinification at Kuentz-Bas. The wines are divided into two tiers: Tradition, a fresher collection focusing on fruit character, fermented and aged on the lees in oak foudre for 6-8 months and Trois Châteaux, from the domaine’s finest vineyards. The Trois Châteaux wines are fermented and aged in a stainless steel tank, then bottled and held for a year before release. Reduced doses of sulfur allow for a greater expression of fruit, and a drier fermentation yields crisp, mineral-laden wines with less residual sugar. The wines are therefore more open than ever while still reflecting the unmistakable character of the vineyards that clients have come to expect from the Kuentz-Bas. Alsace’s noble terroir shines through like never before in the domaine’s wines, making these among the greatest white wine values to be found. Cheers, Cameron Anderson 2025 Kuentz-Bas Alsace Blanc Region / Country of Origin: Alsace, France About the winery: For more than 200 years, the Kuentz-Bas estate has been producing authentic wines, true to their terroir and vinified according to simple and natural methods. Each Kuentz-Bas wine will either reveal the true identity of the grape variety or the expression of the terroir. Choosing a biodynamic viticultural approach has become a major step forward in our quest for excellence. A single taste that will make you understand how our winemaking philosophy is making our wines strikingly different! The Kuentz-Bas family served as a true ambassador of Alsatian winemaking in France and around the world. The estate experienced significant growth, and brilliantly recovered from the devastating World War II while preparing its bright future. The prosperous estate expanded the size of its cellar, and acquired a new bottling chain. In 1954, the estate owned 12 hectares of vines exclusively grown on the steep hills, and continued to build its brand around the world until 2003. About the winemaking: Whole grapes are pressed slowly (generally 4-6 hours) in a pneumatic press, then the must is chilled to 52° F while the heavy lees settle. Then aged for 6 months in hundred-year-old foudre. Nose: A perfumed and lifted nose of white peach, lychee, white flowers (jasmine and honeysuckle), citrus zest, beeswax, and a gentle hint of spice. Tasting Notes: Crisp and invigorating with bright citrus, orchard fruit, and subtle smoky or mineral nuances. It finishes bone-dry with a soft, comforting, and round texture. Winemaker: Laure and Jean-Baptiste Adam Price: $18.99 Varietal: 30% Sylvaner, 25% Riesling, 20% Pinot Blanc, 10% Muscat, 10% Pinot Gris, 5% Gewurztraminer Suggested Food Pairing: Crab cakes, seafood rillettes, Simple roast or roasted chicken/poultry, Herb-driven or garden vegetable dishes, Potato samosas, and Hard cheeses or a sliver of Saint-André with a baguette 2025 Kuentz-Bas Pinot Noir Region / Country of Origin: Alsace, France About the Winery: The “TROIS CHATEUX” line, our organic and biodynamic wines range, is made exclusively with our own vines, grown with the principles of Biodynamic viticulture since 2004. Kuentz-Bas has officially received the organic certification for the vintage 2007 and the biodynamic certification (Demeter) for the vintage 2008. The Trois Chateaux wines are authentic and emphasize the expression of the terroir on which they are grown. The Trois Chateaux wines are vinified and matured according to ancestral biodynamic practices without modern technology. These are authentic wines that express the terroir from which they come. Once the fermentation is completed, the wines are matured on fine lees, before the filtration and the bottling. Terroir: Vine Age: 25-35 Years, Soil: Clay, Limestone, Vineyard Area: 1.2 hectares About the winemaking: The grapes are fermented naturally in foudre over 2-3 weeks with daily pumpovers. The wine is aged for 8 months in foudre. The wine is bottled without filtration and then aged for 1 year before release. Nose: Fragrant and aromatic, featuring crunchy red berries, sweet/soft spices, red cherries, and hints of black tea or floral notes. Tasting Notes: Light, juicy, and tart with bright red fruit (such as strawberry and cherry) and a generous spice component. Light-bodied, smooth, and refreshing with fine-grained, silky tannins and vibrant acidity. Winemaker: Laure and Jean-Baptiste Adam Price: $28.99 Varietal: Pinot Noir Suggested Food Pairing: Soft or semi-firm cheeses like chèvre (goat cheese), Brie, Camembert, or Comté, Roast chicken, turkey, or Cornish game hens, Mushroom tarts, mushroom pasta, or grilled portobello mushrooms
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Wine of the Month Club August 2026
Liguria Though arguably most associated with France, the Riviera - as concept, aspiration, and actuality - originates in Liguria, in northwestern Italy. The word itself is Italian for “coastline,” and was first applied to the 350 miles of waterfront that traces the narrow corridor between the Maritime Alps, the Apennine mountains and the Ligurian Sea. When 19th century English vacationers strolled over the northern border with France, they extended their remit to encompass the Cotes D’Azur and present-day Monaco (where a variation of the Ligurian dialect, called Monégasque, is still a compulsory subject in local schools). The etymology of ‘Liguria’ itself is much older and more obscure, though the word is likely derived from the ancient Ligures people, who are thought to have once occupied a remarkably large swath of Mediterranean Europe, including parts of Southern France, present-day Catalonia on the Iberian Peninsula, and Piedmont down to Sicily, in Italy. Not sure why this once vast aggregation ended up appellate to Italy’s third-smallest region, but it's appropriate because Liguria has always supported multitudes. One of the most densely populated parts of Italy, the territory is 65% mountains, and 80% of the inhabitants choose to live elsewhere - in the conurbations that limn the coast: Sanremo, Savonia, La Spezia and Genoa, Italy’s busiest seaport and the regional capital. You can pivot your visit around cityscapes and beaches, and/or hike up to and around alpine villages carved out of rock, including the world-famous but still surprisingly inaccessible ring of fishing villages known collectively as Cinque Terre. You will hear a dialect bearing traces of Portuguese, Sardinian, Celtic and Arabic that is barely intelligible to other Italians; you will not see (or taste) many tomatoes - an afterthought in the birthplace of pesto. You will drink beach wine whose breezy maritime resonances belie the backbreaking work required to make them. And like most places in Italy, Liguria’s enological story began in antiquity. It’s not certain whether the Greeks or the Phoenicians introduced the vine to Liguria, but by the time the Romans passed through the region, wine from Liguria was prized both for its quality and its scarcity. This remains true today, as only the much smaller and less populated Vallee D’Aosta produces less vino by volume per annum. Both places require what the Italians call viticulture eroica (heroic viticulture), as vineyards occupy impossibly steep slopes hostile to machinery of any kind, necessitating painstaking by-hand cultivation to pry these tiny yields from the recalcitrant dirt. Our two selections this month pretty much epitomize this ethos. The white comes from Punta Crena, one of our favorite wineries. The Ruffino family behind it have been farming the same vineyards above the tiny beach village of Varigotti for 500 years; the current generation even builds their stone terraces by hand. The grape here is the extremely rare Lumassina (this is the only bottling I’ve ever come across) which performs kind of like an Italian Vinho Verde: light, dry, low in alcohol, and almost effervescent, it is ideal for the dog days of August. The red is made from Rossese, a light skinned grape that is genetically identical to another obscure varietal called Tibouren, which grows further northwest along the Riviera, in Provence. Rossese is known as the “Nebbiolo of Liguria”for its light color, ripe tannins and rosy aromas. It works well with a slight chill and a warm breeze - a great summer/fall transition wine. Cheers, The PlumpJack Wine Team Punta Crena Lumassina 2025 Region / Country of Origin: Varigotti, Liguria, Italy About the winery: The tiny village of Varigotti comprises just a few rows of houses and restaurants along a pristine Mediterranean beach. Climb up into the hills and you will discover neatly terraced vineyards on the slopes and in hidden clearings further up on the peaks.The Ruffino family has been living here and tending to these vineyards for more than 500 years. Today four siblings run the estate: Tommaso, the eldest, is the winemaker; Paolo is the salesman; Anna handles logistics; and Nicola helps out in the vineyards and winery. The vineyards of Punta Crena (which is named for a large promontory jutting into the sea at the edge of the village) are all within 1,200 meters of the water and enjoy sea breezes that help keep the grapes healthy and happy. About the winemaking: The terraced vineyards are at 100-300 m altitude and within 1.2 km of the sea. Everything is vinified in stainless steel. No machines are used for pumping over; the pressure resulting from the release of gas during fermentation is used instead, and the wines are neither filtered nor fined. Lumassina does not undergo malolactic fermentation and spends 3 months aging on the lees before bottling. Punta Crena’s still bottling has a snail on the label because the grape ripens very slowly (it is also a pun on the name Lumassina, which resembles the Italian word for snail, “lumaca”). Tasting Notes: Melon, jasmine and citrus on the nose lead to a light and refreshing palate with frothy notes of green apple, lemon and a saltwater-kissed buoyancy. Winemaker: Tommaso Ruffino Price: $25.99 Suggested Food Pairing: Fresh vegetable preparations (Spinach pancakes w/ zucchini & mushrooms, say); dishes featuring anchovies, shrimp or fried calamari. Spicy Szechuan dishes like sesame noodles. Azienda Agricola Durin Riviera Ligure di Ponente Rossese 2024 Region / Country of Origin: Ortovero, Liguria, Italy About the Winery: The Basso family over generations has expanded their small holdings—literally some 259 separate vineyards, most just a handful of vine rows—in the plains around the village of Ortovero and coiled around the region’s terraced and steep hillsides, cut over the ages by the Centa and Arroscia rivers. Vineyard altitude ranges from as low as 150 feet to as high as 1,400 feet; soils are equally varied, from dark, fertile patches to ruddy, iron-rich soils, to the “terra bianca” mix of white clay and sand.. About the winemaking: Estate-owned vineyards are found across both terraced hillsides above the Mediterranean coast and flatter lands near the town of Ortovero. Soils predominantly sandy, with limestone. 20-40 year old vines. Hand-harvested. Destemmed; cold macerated for 24 to 48 hours. Fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled tanks. Aged in tank for one year Tasting Notes: Intense ruby red colour. Ample, intense, persistent, fine and fruity to the smell with scents of rose, strawberry, raspberry, blueberry and lightly winy. Dry and rich to the taste but fairly soft and pleasantly warm, medium-bodied and lightly tannic. Winemaker: Antonio Basso Price: $23.99 Suggested Food Pairing: Genoese style ravioli, trenette pasta, risotto in meat sauce, cannelloni; Genoese cima (stuffed veal pocket), roast game birds, Liguria style salt cod, fish soup
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March 2026 Wine of the Month Club: Georgia
GEORGIA While those of us in wine like to spend a lot of time talking about how ancient of a drink it is, most modern wine is a far cry from what those ancient drinks would’ve actually been. Today’s winemaking techniques rarely go back further than the 1800s, even within regions with histories reaching back to Roman times. The wines of Georgia on the other hand feels like a step into the past, born of processes not too different from what has been done for thousands of years. And with renewed local (and international) interest in these classic methods, Georgia is experiencing a wine renaissance at the moment, as younger generations pick up the torch and continue the work of the first, if not the longest running winemaking tradition in the world. Located in the Caucasus Mountains at the intersection between Asia and Europe, with Russia to its north and Turkiye, Armenia, and Azerbaijan to its south, Georgia has long been a crossroads of a wide range of agricultural systems. It was at one time the European centre of domestication for multiple food crops such as wheat, legumes, and V. vinifera, the family of grapes that make up all classic European wine varieties. Grapevines are a deep cultural part of the Georgian identity, with hundreds of different varieties and vines planted on most properties, where century-old rooted plants are a regular occurrence. As noted by ethnobotanist Aurora Prehn, “the only part of the plant that is not used with any regularity is the root and vine trunk, which are burned as fuel only once the vine has died. Vines and vineyards are seen as living entities in the Georgian perspective … . Vine trimmings, a byproduct of cultivation, are dried and used for fuel, most favored for barbequing meat, or Mtsvadi (მწვადი). Further, leaves picked when green are preserved and used culinarily, commonly for the beloved tolma (ტოლმა), or grape leaves stuffed with meat and rice. In one form or another the grape harvest is preserved and nothing goes to waste. The byproducts of winemaking are used for livestock fodder or fertilizer, and the must (the seeds and skins at the bottom of wine fermentation tanks) is often distilled to make a clear spirit called chacha (ჭაჭა), sometimes consumed during the long haul of winemaking. ”* The history of winemaking in the region goes back millenia, with the oldest evidence unearthed in a Neolithic era site in eastern Georgia. There, scientists identified and dated unglazed clay vessels used in winemaking and storage, known as qvevri or churi, via the residue of tartaric acid fragments, going back to 6000 BCE. While evidence of older fermented beverages have been discovered elsewhere, like the residue of wild grapes, hawthorn, rice, and honey from between 7000-6800 BCE found in the Henan province in north-central China, this remains the earliest example of what we could consider as wine. And with over 500 distinct varieties of grapes, the Georgian region is considered the origin of most V. vinifera. Grapevine culture was introduced into Christianity around the 4th century CE when it arrived here, and the veneration of wine was assimilated into the precursor of Orthodox Christianity. A powerful Georgian kingdom reigned between the 10th and 13th centuries, and this was the golden age of wine in the area, as viticulture constituted a key pillar of both the agricultural and economic engines of the country. This was followed by waves of Ottoman, Iranian, and eventually Russian rule starting in 1510 and not ending until the collapse of the Soviet Union in the late 1980 through 1990s. As with much of Europe, the 19th and 20th centuries were hard for Georgia. Phylloxera and fungal diseases devastated the country by the end of the 19th century, reducing the amount of land planted under vine by half. As part of the USSR, Georgia thrived as one of the centers of winemaking, though some would argue that quality was negatively affected by the Soviet model of pushing out large quantities of affordable wine. An anti-alcohol campaign undertaken by Mikhail Gorbachev between 1985-1987 further reduced vineyard plantings, though mostly for state vineyards as Georgians refused to pull out their vines. Through secessionist movements and political turmoil in the nineties and aughts, Georgian wine slowly underwent a qualitative renaissance and has gained international recognition, even gaining UNESCO acknowledgment for its use of traditional winemaking techniques utilising qvevri. We hope you enjoy these distinctive wines as much as we have. გაიხარე! Justin Malesheetz, Fillmore Wine Buyer * https://discoverandshare.org/2021/11/11/grafting-the-grape-the-rich-history-of-georgian-winemaking/ Chateau Mere 2023 Saperavi Qvevri Region/Country of Origin: Kakheti, Alazani Valley, Georgia About the Winery: Chateau Mere is a signature line within the winery Winiveria which was founded by George Piridashvili in the early 2000s, in the wake of the Georgian wine market revival with the goal of producing high-quality wines using indigenous grape varieties and traditional techniques to promote the great value of Georgian wines worldwide. Established in the Alazani Valley in 2014 as part of a destination winery and resort complex. The winery collaborates with local growers and a nearby cooperative to produce high quality wines made in both traditional Georgian and classical European styles. About the winemaking: 100% Saperavi, a dark colored and tannic grape with vibrant acidity, from organically farmed vineyards in the Signaghi region in the Alazani River Valley. Grapes are hand-harvested and crushed before fermenting on the skins, stalks, and seeds while being stirred by hand for one month in qvevri. The wine is then aged for a year before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Tasting Notes: Deep violet with a nose of black currant, black plum, and savory mineral notes. Medium bodied with balanced acidity and fine grained tannins, the wine is bursting with flavors of dark red fruits, dried herbs, black plum, cranberry, with a long earthy finish. Winemaker: Vano Giligashvili Price: $29.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled steak, beef or lamb stew, grilled sausages, roast vegetables Iago’s Wine “Iago” 2023 Chinuri Amber Wine Region / Country of Origin: Chardakhi, Kartli, Georgia About the Winery: Located in a rural village in the central Georgian region of Kartli, Iago Bitarishvili’s family, like most in Georgia, had long been cultivating grapes and making wine for personal consumption. In 1998 Igor decided to switch from the more conventional mode of cultivation to organic farming, and in 2003 bottled his first commercial vintage. In 2005 he received a Bio Certificate making his vineyards the first in Georgia to be organically certified. By 2006 he was exporting his wine. Iago is also one of the founding fathers of the Natural Wine Association in Georgia and in 2012 his wife Marina was the first woman in Georgia to make natural qvevri wine for the commercial market. About the winemaking: 100% Chinuri, an acidic grape that produces wines with moderate alcohol, from 65 year old organically farmed vines. The grapes are hand harvested and whole bunches are placed into traditional large earthenware amphorae built into the floor called qvevri and fermented on the skins for three weeks with punchdowns between 2 and 4 times a day at the start. When the stalks and skins (known here as chacha) have settled and the secondary malolactic fermentation has occurred, the wine is pumped to a new qvevri, where it ages for six months. Tasting Notes: A slightly hazy amber, the nose is a heady mix of marmalade, orange rind, tea, citrus peel, and fresh herbs. Light bodied with subdued acidity and light grippy tannins, this wine coats the mouth with flavors of bergamot, perfume flowers, apple, and elderflower with a dry citrusy finish. Winemaker: Iago Bitarishvili Price: $31.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: grilled fish, poke, roast duck, goat cheese, pickled vegetables, khachapurri, vegetable pate
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February 2026 Wine of the Month: Mexico
MEXICO While most focus is on the United States when considering wine in North America, Mexico has in the past few decades been making some of the most exciting wines on the continent. Though it doesn’t have the volume of our neighbors to the south in Chile and Argentina, Mexican wines have an imaginative, scrappy edge to them, as they combine ancient techniques with modern technology and widely avoid the use of herbicides and pesticides throughout the country. This looseness can be associated with the relatively new renaissance in the country's wine industry despite its long viticultural history reaching back to the 16th century. This month, we will be focusing on two distinct regions of the country that showcase the diversity and quality of the current Mexican wine scene. One of which is the country's current leader in production and most well known internationally. The other is the historical home of wine in Mexico with a history dating back to the 1500s. While the indigenous people had been drinking fermented beverages made with honey, fruits, and indigenous grape varieties like V. rupestris, V. vinifera used in trad-Euro wine making wasn’t introduced until the 1521, when Hernan Cortez ordered each Spaniard to plant 10 vines for every slave they owned. These original plantations were centered in what is modern day Mexico City and Puebla, but quickly spread throughout central Mexico to Querétaro, Guanajuato, San Luis Potosí, and Hidalgo. By 1553 wines from these regions of “New Spain” were being produced by Augustinian monks to be shipped to Mexico City. In 1568 Spanish conquistadors embarked from Zacatecas in search of gold and stumbled upon the Valle de Parras in the southern region of modern day Coahuila. While most of the state is semi-arid, this high elevation oasis (the highest point of this region can reach up to 2000 meters, approximately 6561 feet) was perfect for growing grapes, and in 1593 Marqués de Aguayo was founded followed in 1597 by Hacienda San Lorenzo (which still produces wine under the name Casa Madero), the first commercial wineries in the Americas, was opened and became known for high quality wine and brandy. In 1683 Jesuit monks traveled north along the peninsula to spread christianity and convert the indigenous population of Sur, Baja, and Alta California. The first mission was established in 1693, and the first vineyards were planted around 1717, though wine was not made officially until 1755 when Father Jorge Retz planted vineyards in the mountain's northeast of Guerrero Negro, and he remained there tending the vines until the Jesuits were expelled from Spanish held territories, replaced by Franciscans and Dominicans. By this time, Mexican wine could only be made for sacramental purposes, as wine and brandy from the territory had become so popular that it started cutting into Spanish exports, leading to a ban on winemaking and the growing of vineyards in the 18th century that lasted until Mexican independence in 1810. Mexican viticulture received a brief boost of government support following their independence in the form of subsidies and tax breaks, but the arrival of phylloxera followed by the Mexican Revolution in 1910 combined with low demand for wine within the country slowed the wine industry considerably. Things began to change after World War 2 with a 400% tax on foreign wines implemented in 1940 and the creation of the Mexican Viticultural Council in 1949 to promote and support the sector. Slowly but steadily the volume and quality of the wine improved, and despite the economic crisis of 1994 slowing down the development of the industry, leaving only 7 producers in the country, Mexican wine has been gaining attention for the innovation and quality on display. ¡Salud!, Justin Malesheetz, Fillmore Wine Buyer RGMX 2023 Scielo Tinto Red Blend Region / Country of Origin: Valle de Parras, Coahuila, MX About the Winery: Founded in 1998 by the Rivero Gonzalez family who have been farming organic nuts in the region for generations, RGMX focuses on making low intervention wines from four estate vineyards based in the Valle de Parra that are farmed organically without herbicides or pesticides. The vineyards were planted in separate plots based on variety variations in microclimate and soil profile. About the winemaking: A blend of 45% Syrah, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Merlot from relatively young vines planted at a staggering 5000 feet of elevation farmed organically without the use of herbicides or pesticides. The grapes were hand harvested at night and hand sorted before being pressed into stainless steel tanks and fermenting for two weeks. The wine is then racked off to a fresh stainless steel tank to age before being lightly filtered before bottling. Tasting Notes: Medium ruby in the glass, with an elegantly perfumed nose of fresh violets, red plum, fresh red and dark berries, black pepper, and blood orange. Fresh and elegant despite its fuller body with bright acidity and silky but firm tannins framing flavors of cocoa dusted raspberry, blueberry, cherry liquor, and red currant with a long chocolate and berry finish with a slight savory herbaceous note rounding out the palate. Winemaker: Matias Utrero Carmona Price: $24.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: Carne asada, tuna steak, roasted lamb, grilled mushrooms, cheddar, stuffed bell peppers Monte Xanic 2024 Viña Kristel Sauvignon Blanc Region / Country of Origin: Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, MX About the Winery: Founded in 1987 by Hans Bakhoff, Ricardo Hojel, Manuel Castro, Tomas Fernandez, and Eric Hagstater, Monte Xanic was the first boutique winery in the Valle de Guadalupe. With a focus on quality and innovation. Monte Xanic encompasses 6 ranches in Baja California. This beautiful hillside teems with life, from the soils of Valle de Guadalupe to the Valle de Ojos Negros. About the winemaking: 100% Sauvignon Blanc from younger vines planted in 2009 on a combination of limestone, clay, and granite soil. These vineyards at the northern end of the Valle de Guadalupe have been farmed sustainably and utilize two different styles of vine training systems to achieve different levels of ripeness to create complexity and balance without the use of additives. The grapes were harvested by hand as each plot reached the desired ripeness. The grapes were then fermented in stainless steel for two weeks and cold stabilized to help prevent the formation of potassium bitartrate, the little crystals that form when a bottle is placed in a cold area like a refrigerator causing the tartaric acid and potassium in the wine to undergo a crystalizing reaction. While the crystals themselves are harmless (they are effectively the same as cream of tartar), this can affect the pH of the wine, causing it to feel out of balance. After this process the wine is aged for 6 months on the lees in stainless steel tanks before being bottled. Tasting Notes: Pale straw in the glass, this wine has a robust nose of chalky oyster shell minerality juxtaposed with juicy tropical fruit notes of guava, citrus, and stone fruit. Despite its light body, bright acidity, and dryness the wine feels rich with a roundness on the palate and the juicy tropical flavors ending with a slightly saline note on the finish not unlike lime salt. Winemaker: Oscar Gaona Price: $25.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: grilled fish, poke, roast duck, goat cheese
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December 2025 Wine of the Month Club
DOMAINE GREGOIRE HOPPENOT With Thanksgiving in the rearview mirror and Christmas and Chanukah right around the corner, we’re ending the year with a pair of wines from a newer producer of Cru Beaujolais who has quickly made a name for himself. He received “Discovery of the Year” from Revue du Vin de France in 2020 after only two vintages, and his wines are now sought after throughout Europe and the East Coast. Founded in 2018 in Fleurie, Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot has rapidly emerged as one of the most exciting names in Beaujolais. After years of experience in Burgundy and Beaujolais, Grégoire Hoppenot established his own domaine, now covering around 10 hectares across some of the region’s finest crus, including Fleurie and Morgon. After gaining experience at Domaine Chermette, Maison Trénel, and Cave des Vignerons de Bel-Air, Grégoire struck out on his own and immediately began to gain recognition in the wine world, receiving high scores from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate in his first vintage. His philosophy is centered on organic farming, low intervention, and parcel-by-parcel vinification, creating wines that are deeply expressive of their granite-based terroirs. The result is elegant wines with freshness, energy, and silky tannins that are ready to drink now while maintaining strong aging potential. Situated on the western side of the Beaujolais hills overlooking the Saône River Valley, vineyards in Fleurie are planted on south- and southeast-facing slopes of pink granite soils. At higher elevations, the soil tends to be rougher and sandier, creating light, elegant wines with floral and red-fruited notes. On the lower slopes, richer clay soils produce denser, more structured wines, at times resembling Moulin-à-Vent to the east. Like much of this part of France, winemaking here dates back as far as the 1st century BC, with Benedictine monks maintaining and tending the vineyards from the 7th to the 10th centuries, producing wine largely for themselves and local lords. These sites were expanded by the Lyonnais bourgeoisie in the 15th century, and by the 1700s Beaujolais wines were sought after by merchants in Lyon, with the name Fleurie appearing in written reports. In 1927, a decree precisely defined the wine-growing area of Fleurie, leading to the official creation of the Fleurie AOC in 1936 and the definitive consolidation of the appellation as one of the Beaujolais crus. Santé, Justin Malesheetz, Fillmore Wine Buyer Domaine Hoppenot 2023 Fleurie "Origines" Region / Country of Origin: Fleurie, FR About the winemaking: This vintage’s release is 100% Gamay Noir that was mostly from Clos de la Roilette, with small amounts from the Les Garants and Les Roches lieux dits. Originally part of the Moulin-a-Vent appellation, Clos de Roilette is one of the most renowned sites in Fleurie. Planted at lower elevation on flatter and deeper clay and granite soils, the wine made from this site tends to be richer and more structured than a lot of Fleurie. The grapes were hand harvested and underwent maceration for 10–12 days with whole clusters in 60 hl concrete vats. Temperatures are kept below 30°C and daily pumping over for gentle extraction of color and tannins. The wine is then vinified with ambient yeast, without SO2. Tasting Notes: Ruby in the glass with a nose of graphite, raspberry jellies, potting soil, black cherry, and iron. Medium bodied with firm tannins and bright acidity, this is a more complex, almost Burgundian take on Beaujolais. Mineral, slightly savory on the palate with brooding dark red fruit and cherry liquor flavors swirling around a liquid rock core with a long stony finish. While drinking beautifully now, it will easily age nicely in the next 2–5 years. Winemaker: Grégoire Hoppenot Price: $24.99 btl/$280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Dim sum, chicken mole, seared tuna steak, roast chicken, smoked ham, adobo, chicken teriyaki, grilled sausages. Famille Hoppenot 2023 Beaujolais Blanc Region / Country of Origin: Fleurie, FR About the winemaking: 100% Chardonnay from certified organic 40-year-old vines in the northern part of Beaujolais just south of the Mâcon in the Creches-sur-Saone in clay and limestone soils. Hand harvested and fermented in stainless steel before aging for 6–12 months in a combination of small to medium neutral French oak barrels before bottling. Tasting Notes: Pale gold in the glass with an opulent nose of dried pineapple, apricot, elderflower, orange sherbet, and a faint mineral note. Medium bodied with moderate acidity and a lush mouthfeel in perfect contrast to the dry finish, the wine is bursting at the seams with flavors of orange blossom, baked apple, pineapple, and apricot with a long mineral and floral finish. Winemaker: Grégoire Hoppenot Price: $24.99 btl/$269.89 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Goat cheese with citrus preserves, soft cheese in general, lobster roll, mussels in garlic.
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Wine of the Month November: Château de Vaux
While Moselle is one of the newest AOCs in France, having received the status only in 2011, the history of this small AOC in the Lorraine IGP—based around the cities of Metz and Nancy in the northeast, bordered by Alsace to the east and Luxembourg and Germany to the north—dates back to Gallo-Roman times. Defined by the foothills of the Vosges Mountains and a series of river valleys based around the Meuse, Ornain, and Moselle Rivers, this cool continental climate has been prized for its vineyards since 276 AD, when Emperor Probus issued an edict authorizing vine cultivation in northern Gaul, and the entire Metz region became known for its vineyards. The influence of the Moselle vineyards continued throughout the Middle Ages, as abbeys, religious institutions, and lordships regularly purchased Moselle wines. With Louis XIV’s revocation of the Edict of Nantes—originally put in place by Henry IV in 1598 to grant some religious and political protection for the Calvinist-Protestant Huguenots—vineyards were abandoned by the largely Protestant landowners, and the land was divided up by lottery; the Parliament of Metz was staffed with people of Burgundian origin who continued overseeing the vineyards. By the beginning of the 19th century, the region was known for its Pinot Noir, which was prized for its use in sparkling wine. By midcentury, industrialization and urbanization threatened vineyards as land was used for further development, though tenant farmers and sharecroppers kept the vineyards alive, going into debt to buy back vineyards. The region was thrown into further turmoil with the annexation of the Moselle by Germany following the Franco-Prussian War, with German merchants using the fruit from the vineyards to make Sekt. By the eve of the Moselle’s return to France in 1893, it was on the verge of becoming a “second Champagne,” with Roederer & Co. sourcing grapes from Longeville-lès-Metz and Paille-Laurent from Moulin-Gravelotte. The 20th century brought phylloxera, two world wars, and the establishment of the Champagne AOC, leading to the relocation of large estates—all of which devastated the region. This was exacerbated by large amounts of debt and an individualist streak among many winegrowers: diseased vines were not replanted with grafted vines, and a cooperative was not created to help weather the crisis. By 1986, there were only 10 hectares producing wine in the region. In 1999, Norbert Molozay and his wife, Marie-Genevieve Molozay, purchased a small estate in the village of Vaux from a librarian who had revived viticulture in the region by planting the first vines on three hectares. Norbert, a Beaujolais native trained in Dijon, was a “flying winemaker”—a traveling consultant working in various cellars and vineyards around the world—with experience in New Zealand, Australia, the U.S., Burgundy, Beaujolais, Alsace, and the Languedoc. Marie-Genevieve, a Metz native whose family had been wine merchants for five generations, is a trained scientist who pivoted to oenology, receiving a degree in Dijon. The two immediately fell in love with the estate—a 16th-century château that had been used for the production of sparkling wine under German rule—and were excited by the potential of the region, with its mix of well-draining marl and limestone soils and its south- and southeast-facing vineyards protecting it from the cool, damp weather coming from the west. They began consolidating parcels (they now own one‑third of the vineyards in the region) and changed agricultural practices, starting organic conversion in 2010 and receiving Demeter certification in 2014, having converted to full biodynamic farming. No animal products are used in the making or bottling of the wine. They make pristine, easy‑drinking wines that will be perfect for your holiday table. Cheers, Justin Malesheetz- Wine Buyer Fillmore Chateau de Vaux Molozay 2022 Moselle Pinot Noir Les Hautes Bassières Region / Country of Origin: Vaux, Moselle, FR About the winemaking: 100% Pinot Noir from Demeter certified vineyards harvested manually and destemmed. The grapes macerate for three weeks with daily punch downs to extract color, tannins and aromatic compounds from the skins. The processed juice is then blended with the free-run juice and fermented in stainless steel, then aged in a wide range of barrels for 12 months before blending and bottling. Tasting Notes: Pale ruby in the glass with a nose of morello cherry, peony, and slate. Medium bodied with vibrant acidity and silky tannins, this dry pinot is bursting with flavors of fresh herbs and tart cherries with a savory mineral note shining through on the long finish. Vineyard Manager: Norbert & Marie-Genevieve Molozay Price: $25.99 btl/ $280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Chicken pot pie, coq au vin, mushroom croquettes, Thanksgiving dinner. Chateau de Vaux Molozay 2024 Moselle Blanc Les Gryphées Region / Country of Origin: Vaux, Moselle, FR About the winemaking: A blend of 50% Auxerrois, 20% Müller-Thurgau, 20% Pinot Gris, and 10% Gewürtztraminer that goes into a pneumatic press once it arrives from the vineyards and is vinified separately in vats at low temperatures. Tasting Notes: Bright nose of white flowers, grapefruit, and lemon zest. Dry and on the lighter side of medium-bodied with a roundness that is framed with bright acidity, this wine is bursting with flavors of ripe stone and citrus fruit with a long mineral finish. Winemaker: Norbert & Marie-Genevieve Molozay Price: $23.99 btl/ $259.09 cs Suggested Food Pairing: scallops, chicken fricassee, vegetable terrine, mussels, richer fishes like trout and salmon, pasta with cream based sauces.
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October Wine of the Month Club: Mediterranean Varietals in California
California Mediterranean Varietals The origins of California wine are rooted in Spanish history. Spanish grapes first arrived in what was then Alta California with the Franciscan padres, including Father Junipero Serra, in the late 1700s. They planted Listán Prieto (aka the Mission grape) throughout Southern and Central California. As Catholics, the Spanish valued grapes and red wine as essential symbols in both their rituals and culture. The padres became known for cultivating drought-tolerant, hedge-pruned vines, and their viticultural techniques and tools were passed down to California’s early grape growers. While the Mission grape fared poorly in the cooler areas around Mission San José and Mission Santa Cruz, it thrived in the warmer regions of the Central Valley and Sonoma. By the mid-19th century, nurseries were propagating vines from across Europe. Italian and Spanish varieties flourished in the state’s warm, Mediterranean climate. The Gold Rush brought waves of immigrants eager to slake their thirst with the oceans of wine produced in Santa Clara, Napa, the Central Valley, and Sonoma. Between 1850 and 1890, wine production ramped up across the state as settlers and viticultural pioneers began importing cuttings. Italian immigrants, one of the largest groups to arrive during this period, brought agricultural expertise and found the climate similar to that of their homeland. As a result, wineries sprang up throughout the state in the late 19th century. Prohibition, enforced by the Volstead Act beginning in January 1920, forced nearly all of California’s wineries to shut down. Although the 18th Amendment was ratified in 1919, the nationwide ban on alcohol sales took effect the following year. Yet vineyard acreage grew in some regions, as grape concentrate was shipped nationwide and sacramental wine continued to be produced for the Catholic Church. These measures kept the industry alive, though vastly diminished. By the time Prohibition ended in 1933, the number of wineries in California had plummeted from about 700 to just 40. Following the repeal of Prohibition, the wine industry emphasized quantity. Once again, a sea of cheap, sweet wine flowed from the Central Valley. By 1952, Mission was still the fourth most planted red grape, and Palomino led among white varieties. Wines of many types were generically labeled “Burgundy,” “Chablis,” and the like, and although most California “Chablis” was made of Chardonnay, the “Burgundies” were made from blends of Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Syrah, Petite Verdot, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon; little to no Pinot Noir was included. Although the 1970s and 1980s saw a rise in Mediterranean plantings used for quality winemaking, it wasn’t until the 1990s and early 2000s that winemakers and enthusiasts began to rediscover the hidden gems scattered throughout the state. While Spanish varieties are steadily gaining attention, they still make up only a small portion of California’s vineyards compared to classic grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay—so we’re especially excited to share this month’s selections with you. Cheers! Justin Malesheetz Fillmore Wine Buyer 2023 Orixe Sotelo “Soto” Godello Region / Country of Origin: Sonoma, CA USA About the winery: Orixe Sotelo is the passion project of husband and wife team Gustavo and Jackie Sotelo. Originally from Mexico City, Gustavo has spent over 15 years working in such wineries as Etude, Mumm, Bodegas Mauro (the personal project of Mariano Garcia, who had been winemaker at the legendary Vega Sicilia for 30 years), and finally Scribe, where he is the current Director of Winemaking. Jackie, a UC Berkeley graduate with a certificate from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has spent an equal amount of time working on the marketing and sales side of wine with such wineries as Ashes & Diamonds and Bedrock Wine Co. Their focus is on Spanish varietals as they believe these grapes are best suited for the climate of California. About the winemaking: 100% Godello, the first planted in the state, from Birdland Vineyard at the base of Sonoma Mountain in the town of Glen Ellen. After a light crushing and sitting on the skins for three hours, the grapes were pressed and transferred to 500-liter puncheon where it underwent primary fermentation but not malolactic fermentation. The wine was then aged 10 months on its lees. Tasting Notes: Pale gold in the glass with a nose of fresh grapefruit, lime, menthol, and dried herbs. Vibrant acidity on the palate with a waxy roundness and flavors of ripe green citrus with a long dry mineral finish. Winemaker: Gustavo Sotelo Price: $25.99 btl/$280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Smoked salmon, sushi, grilled seafood 2022 Perlegos Winery Duetto Red Blend Region / Country of Origin: Clement Hills, Lodi, CA USA About the Winery: John and Jeff Perlegos' family has been farming in Lodi since the 1950s. 1st generation Americans born of Greek immigrants, they grew up on a vineyard and helped their parents with irrigation work and at their general store during summer. While they only started making wine in 2020, the grapes from their vineyard have been used by such wineries as Bedrock Wine Co, Sabelli Frisch, and Maître de Chai. About the winemaking: 50% Nero d’Avola from Fernow Ranch, an organic, no till vineyard in the northern end of Lodi near the town of Acampo, and 50% Zinfandel from the Perlegos own Stampede Vineyard in the Clement Hills AVA of Lodi that was planted in the 1920s. Grapes the vineyards were destemmed and fermented separately with ambient yeasts. The wines are then aged for 16 months in neutral French oak before being blended at bottling. Tasting Notes: Deep garnet in color with a nose of dark cherry, potpourri, and fresh red and black bramble fruit. On the lighter side of medium bodied with refreshing acidity and fine grained tannins with flavors of dark cocoa, raspberries, and tart black fruit with a dry, long earthy finish. Winemaker: John and Jeff Perlegos Price: $24.99 btl/$269.89 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Lamb, barbacoa, grilled pork chops, carne asada, barbecue chicken
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September Wine of the Month: Baden-Württemberg
Nestled in the south, surrounded by the Black Forest Range to the east and running along the Rhine River from the French/Swiss border to the west, the state of Baden-Württemberg is one of the sunniest regions in Germany, consistently producing quality red wines for over a millenia. Until recently, Germany was known mostly for its age-worthy white wines, both sweet and dry, but with climate change, the country is increasingly recognized for its dry reds. These two regions, with their high elevations and warmer climates (relative to the rest of Germany), are similar to the Loire Valley, Alsace, and Champagne, and have been leading the charge in this regard for decades. Both produce a greater amount of red wine than most German regions, with Baden having the largest amount of red grapes planted. This is mostly Pinot Noir, but with the higher temperatures, some Syrah and even Cabernet Sauvignon are able to ripen. Württemberg, for its part, is planted with around 70% red wine grapes, predominantly the lighter bodied Schiava grape, known here as Trollinger, which migrated from its home in Northern Italy in the 14th century. While wild grapes have been growing along the Rhine River Valley since prehistoric times, viticulture came to Germany with the Romans in the first century. They planted along the steep slate and limestone-rich soils of the Rhine and Mosel in order to provision far-flung imperial outposts battling local Germanic Tribes. When the Roman Empire fell, the Catholic Church became the stewards of these vineyards. First Benedictine and then Cistercean monks planted vineyards and meticulously documented the best areas for growing grapes. Under the reign of Charlemagne in the 8th century, these monasteries became the hub of wine culture in the country as wine was found to be a safer alternative to the often polluted water. Pinot Noir, here known as Spätburgunder, is said to have arrived in Baden around the late 9th century, via German emperor Charles the 3rd, who brought it from north-eastern France and planted it near Lake Constance, just above the Swiss-German border. Known as “Clevner” in Baden for hundreds of years afterwards, the grape spread further afield as nuns and monks fanned out from Burgundy to establish convents and monasteries. Wine remained a staple in Germany through most of the Middle Ages, with four times as much land planted to vine as there is today. It wasn’t until the 16th century that beer started its ascent in the country, with more and more land previously used for winemaking transitioning to food crops. This shift was exacerbated by the ravages of the Thirty Years’ War as well as the Protestant Reformation, leading to the dissolution of monasteries where winemaking knowledge was concentrated. These factors were compounded by the Little Ice Age, a period of cold, dry temperatures starting in the 1300s that reached their coolest around 1650, and led to widespread famine due to crop failure. Napoleonic law splintered vineyards even further, leading to a rise in cooperatives in these southern regions. After World War Two, the regions, which had been independent German states, were merged and split between French and American occupation. For most of the 20th century, the local wines suffered from the same poor reputation as most of Germany’s output, producing light, semi-sweet and undistinguished bottlings, apart from a few producers. This started to change towards the end of the century with more vintners focusing on quality dry wines. These days the wines of Württemberg are good enough to garner recognition despite the fact that most never leave Germany, and many are consumed within the state itself. Württemberg and Baden are both areas worth keeping an eye on as our selections this month demonstrate. Prost! Justin Malesheetz - Fillmore Wine Buyer 2022 Weingut Siegloch Muskateller Region / Country of Origin: Winnenden, Württemberg, DE About the winery: Initially established in 1993 with the merging of the vineyard holdings of the Klöpfer family based out of Winnenden and the Siegloch family of nearby Cannstadt. Since their father's death in 2014, the winery has been run by brothers David and Markus Siegloch. They have focused on sustainable viticulture and a hands-off approach in the cellar. About the winemaking: 100% Gelber Muskateller from sustainably farmed estate vineyards planted on steep pebble sandstone soils at elevations up to 1400ft that undergoes ambient fermentation and is aged on the lees in stainless steel for about 6 months before being bottled without fining, making this wine vegan. Tasting Notes: Pale straw in the glass with a bright perfumed nose with aromas of elderflower, limes, stone fruits, and lychee. Bright with vibrant acidity, lightly effervescent, light-bodied, and just off dry at 11.2 g/L of residual sugar (dry wines can be anywhere between 0 and 10 g/L of residual sugar), this wine is perfect for warm weather with its flavors of white grapes, fresh limeade, and elderflower and a long fresh finish. Winemaker: David Siegloch Price: $24.99 btl/$269.89 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Fresh fruit tart, Salmon with a ginger glaze, seafood curries, spicy katsu sandwich 2021 Weingut Schloss Ortenberg “Granit” Spätburgunder Region / Country of Origin: Ortenberg, Ortenau, DE About the Winery: This historic vineyard surrounding Ortenberg Castle on the steep granite slopes on the edge of the Black Forest was among a handful in Germany that was publicly owned and was the largest communal winery in Germany. Originally an offshoot of the Saint Andreas Hospital founded in 1300 by the citizens of Offenburg that sustained itself from donations, winemaking was started in 1407 after the donation of the first vineyard. This was merged with another municipal winery in the area, the Schloss Ortenberg wine-growing experimental estate that was formed in 1950 to revive the winemaking tradition of the former castle owners. The estate was taken over in 2021 by hotelier Thomas Althoff, who has invested heavily in the vineyards and under whose watch the vineyard has gained wider acclaim not only in Germany, but on an international stage. The winery continued to be managed by Ortenau native Matthias Wolf, who worked in New Zealand and South Africa before returning to the region he was raised in. The vineyards are cultivated sustainably, utilizing techniques such as pheromonal interference instead of insecticides, organic fertilization, and composting, as well as being innovative in regard to enclosure by eliminating cork in 2004. About the winemaking: 100% Pinot Noir from 25-year-old sustainably farmed vines planted on steep west-facing granitic soils that were hand harvested and partially destemmed before undergoing a 4-day cold maceration to extract more color and aroma compounds before fermenting in stainless steel tanks for 7 days. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and extended lees contact and is then aged for 18 months in a combination of new casks and used barriques. Tasting Notes: Pale garnet in the glass, this wine is perfect for those who like their pinots on the earthy side. Almost syrah-like on the nose with a mix of smokey peppery aromas intermingled with notes of black cherry, crushed rocks, graphite, menthol, and oolong tea. The palate is equally brooding with moderate tannins and racing acidity framing flavors of dark cherry, pomegranate, raspberry jam, dried violets, and truffles with a dry earthy floral finish. Winemaker: Hanspeter Rieflin Price: $24.99 btl/$269.89 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Smoked cheeses, game, braised vegetables, mushroom risotto, Jägerschnitzel, limburger, bratwurst
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August Wine of the Month Club: Sud Ouest
While most are familiar with Bordeaux or the Armagnac made in the Gascogne region, not as many are aware of the wines of this corner of France. The Sud Ouest is nestled between the Atlantic Ocean, the Pyrenees and Massif Central mountain ranges reaching down to the French Basque Country in the southwest corner. For centuries, wine traveled up and down the rivers and roads dotted with abbeys and monasteries that tended vineyards. Pilgrims traveled through the region along the Camino Frances route to the holy city of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, which was consecrated in 1189. The region has had its ups and downs, but in the last few decades has become a treasure trove of well-priced high-quality wine. This month we will look at two areas in the region that display the wide diversity of styles and culture within this corner of France. Cahors is an area with a long turbulent history, alternating between times of great prosperity and intense social upheaval in equal measure. With its warm dry weather, influence from both the Mediterranean and Atlantic, and limestone plateaus, the region has been known since Roman times for producing dark, powerful wines from Malbec, known here as Auxerrois or Côt. Its vineyards were first uprooted and set ablaze by the Emperor Domitian in 92 CE, after complaints from growers in the Italian Peninsula that the love for the wine of the region was unfair competition, leading to a ban on viticulture that was not lifted until 276 CE. Unfortunately, the fall of the Roman Empire put a stop to the revitalization, and the region's fortune remained rocky until 630 when Saint Didier, then Bishop of Cahors, began the work of refocusing on winemaking in the region. Their fortunes turned once again when Henry the 2nd married Eleanor of Aquitaine, and the “black wine of Lot” was served at their wedding in 1152, and these dark, powerful wines were once again fashionable. Unfortunately, the region was plunged into chaos with the beginning of the Hundred-Years’ War and the area was ravaged; vines and fruit trees were cut down and wine vats were destroyed. In the 1370s, the Bordelaise imposed a higher tax rate and restrictions on the area, slowly relegating it as a source of Malbec to beef up the lighter Bordeaux wines. After the region was devastated in quick succession by Phylloxera, mildew, and black rot accidently brought over on American vines, farmers replanted with hybrid varieties focused on mass production over quality. Plans to revitalize the region were in the works, but the start of World War 2 stalled those plans, and a frost in 1956 killed off almost all the last remaining vineyards, shrinking down to under 5,000 hectares from their post-phylloxera peak of 80,000. In hindsight, this was a boon for the region, as it gave growers the opportunity to replant with a focus on quality, with mostly Malbec and a smaller portion of Merlot and Tannat replacing the hybrids that had been planted in the 19th century. AOC status was gained in 1971, but as a final blow in the modern age, Argentina became synonymous with Malbec only a few years later with its plush and richer take on Malbec. Despite this, the region has persevered, continuing to create distinct brooding wines, which while not as exuberant as their South American compatriots, carry an earthy edge that creates beautifully long-lived and food friendly-wines. Nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees, with its cool and wet Atlantic influences and a wide array of soils and vines planted along rolling hills, Jurançon has been renowned for its sweet wines for centuries and was one of the first appellations to receive AOC status in the 1930s. While wine has been made in the region since Roman times, this early style was a far cry from what would come later, as most white wine of that time was closer to the amber wines of Georgia than anything we would think of as white wine. While the earliest mention of winemaking can be dated back to 998 near the Abbey of St. Vincent in Lucq-du-Béarn, the region, did not become known for viticulture until the 14th century, when Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng were widely planted in the area after a wave of immigration from Spain and larger France. These thick-skinned, high-sugar and acid grapes thrived in the wet, humid environment, with the thick skins helping protect the grapes from rotting, which allows them to spend more time on the vine, reaching full ripeness while still holding on to their acidity. The sweet wines of this region became so famous that by 1550 Henry the 2nd of Navarre purchased land in the region for the purpose of winemaking and by the 18th century the wines were exported to Northern Europe and the new world, competing with Sauternes as France's best sweet wine. Phylloxera almost brought Gros Manseng to the brink of extinction as the grape didn’t take to grafting onto American rootstock. It was only saved by a few stubborn growers who refused to let it die, reinventing the grape as a dry wine. The region has been undergoing a rejuvenation, with younger winemakers focusing on the powerful dry wines that can be made from its native varieties. Sante! Justin Malesheetz - Wine Buyer, Fillmore 2020 Charles Hours Jurançon Sec “Cuvee Marie” Region / Country of Origin: Jurancon, France About the Winery: Clos Uroulat, an estate dating back to 1775, was purchased by Charles Hours in 1983. Charles runs the estate with his daughter Marie, who is committed to continuing the family legacy while infusing modern creativity into the ancestral art of winemaking. The estate has been farmed sustainably without insecticides or pesticides, and aligns with the region's strong belief in polyculture, with trees lining the vineyards with alternating rows of tilled soil and natural grass in between the vines, alternating every year. About the Winemaking: Gros Manseng and Petit Courbu, a grape typically used for blending in the Southwest, which gives a floral honeyed character while having less acidity than the Mansengs. The grapes are picked by hand over several passes during the harvest season to guarantee ideal ripeness for each style, with the dry wines being picked earlier to keep them from being too full-bodied. These grapes are then immediately put into a pneumatic press, avoiding skin contact as much as possible. The wine is then chilled and moved to stainless steel tanks to ferment for 20 days before being placed in 225-liter barriques, 5-10% of which are new, for 10 months, after which it is filtered and bottled. Tasting Notes: Pale gold in the glass with a nose of pineapple, honeyed fruit, lemon marmalade, elderflower, and wet stone. Laser-like acidity with a lush full body and flavors of citrus finish and a roundness that ends in a dry stony finish. Winemaker: Charles and Marie Hours Price: $26.99 per bottle/ $291.49 per case Suggested Food Pairing: cold cuts, chilled seafood, Mexican chicken salad with jalapenos and carrots, grilled chicken thighs with a citrus glaze 2022 Château du Cèdre Cahors du Cèdre Region / Country of Origin: Cahors, France About the Winery: Located an hour and a half east of Bordeaux, Château du Cèdre was founded in the 1950s by Belgian immigrant Léon Verhaeghe. He was succeeded by his son Charles in the 1970s, who pioneered a return to quality during this time of mass-produced wine, planting vines on the poor stony soils, forcing the vines to struggle and creating smaller, more concentrated berries. He was succeeded in 1988 by his sons Pascal and Jean-Marc, who continued the quest for quality, removing the use of chemicals starting in 1992, fully banning their use by 2000 and gaining organic certification in 2012. The baton has now been passed on to the fourth generation with Pascal's sons Jules and Robin joining the family business. About the Winemaking: 90% Malbec with 5% each of Tannat and Merlot are manually harvested and sorted in the vineyards. Macerated for 30 days with daily punching down of the skin cap at the beginning of fermentation to help extract more flavor compounds, tannins, and colors from the solids of the grape, while also preventing the cap from drying out. Fermentation temperature does not exceed 28° C, and malolactic fermentation is carried out in oak barrels. The wine is aged for 20–22 months in a combination of new, as well as first and second use oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Tasting Notes: Medium purple with a perfumed nose of potpourri, blackberry preserves, blood orange, fresh blueberries, and potting soil. Dry with fine-grained tannins and bright acidity frame flavors of fresh dark berries and black plum, with a long finish reminiscent of violets, and blackberries. Winemaker: Jules Verhaeghe Price: $26.99 per bottle/ $291.49 per case Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled pork chops, suadero, lamb or goat barbacoa, Chile Colorado with nopales
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