Central Europe
The modern history of wine in Central Europe has been hectic. The region has dealt with two world wars, the collapse of at least two empires, and a slew of civil wars and redrawing of borders following the Soviet Union's collapse. While Germany, Austria, and Switzerland can technically be considered part of this broad region, their winemaking cultures were not affected by Soviet rule in the same way as the two countries we’ll be focusing on this month: Hungary and Slovenia.
While these regions can trace their winemaking cultures back to the Romans, and, in the case of Slovenia, to the Celts and Illyrians that predated the Romans, the Austro-Hungarian Empire was ruled over by the Habsburgs and their rule is a place to look at as the starting point of the area’s oenological modernization. The Habsburgs' ties to wine go all the way back to the 15th century with the marriage of Maximillian I to Mary of Burgundy, establishing their presence in the world of wine. In the 18th century, Maria Theresa Habsburg enacted regulations to ensure only high-quality grapes were used for winemaking and established a regional classification system. Her son Joseph II continued on this path by supporting the establishment of Austria's first wine school and championing modern wine-making techniques. Wine was also an important political tool for the Habsburgs, with wine being used to maintain alliances and solve disputes with other nations.
Both countries underwent a series of extreme misfortunes, starting with the devastation wrought first by Phylloxera in the late 1800s; followed by the destruction resulting from World War 1 and the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. This resulted in the redrawing of borders across the area, leaving a third of Slovene-speaking people outside its borders, as well as splitting vineyards across borders as Slovenia is divided between Austria, Italy, and the newly formed Yugoslav kingdom. Hungary in turn lost 70% of its territory and 65% of its population after the signing of the Treaty of Trianon. Under Soviet rule, winemaking in both regions was funneled through state-run farms focused on high yields with little concern for quality, pumping out a sea of table wine distributed through the state-run trading company. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, both regions slowly started rebuilding their winemaking traditions, with farmers buying back pieces of vineyards, modernizing equipment and techniques while utilizing winemaking traditions that have gone back generations. While it’s been a long, hard road for this part of the world, the winemakers of these regions have been able to endure, raising the status of their wine and receiving international recognition.
Na zdravje/Egészségedre!
Justin Malesheetz - Wine Buyer, Fillmore
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2022 Marjan Simčič Ribolla Brda Classic |
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Region / Country of Origin: Primorska, Slovenia |
About the Winery: The history of this winery stretches back 6 generations, and 3 empires. Jozev Simčič purchased land in the village of Medana in 1860 for the purposes of vine cultivation. Then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, this village was known since 1786 as the site of first-class grape growing. The Simčič’s grew this land over the course of 3 generations, constructing an inn and general store. This continued until after World War 2, when part of the family's land along with their inn and store was nationalized by the Soviet Union. This led to members of the family emigrating, leaving Teodore, the grandson of Jozev, and his son Salko to continue tending the vineyards and making wine. In 1988, Salko’s son, and current proprietor, Marjan, took over the management of the farm, and in 1997 took over the winery, building a new cellar in neighboring Ceglo, south of Medana, with the goal of making world-class fine wines. With the help of agronomist and researcher Giovanni Bigot, Simčič focused on organic and biodynamic farming. Marjan’s son Leonardo is now involved in day-to-day operations as well, continuing to keep the history of this winery alive. About the Winemaking: Made of 100% Ribolla Gialla (here known as Rebula) from vines aged 5-31 years. Hand harvested and fermented with ambient yeasts in stainless steel tanks. After 6 months aging on the lees in steel, the wine is then aged an additional month in bottle. Tasting Notes: Pale yellow in the glass, with a nose of stone fruit, lemon, dried herbs, and with some time in the glass dried pineapple. Medium bodied with vibrant acidity, the palate is awash with flavors of salted citrus, chamomile, and grapefruit with a savory mineral finish. |
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Winemaker: Marjan Simčič |
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Price: $20.99 bottle/ $226.69 case |
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Suggested Food Pairing: Aged hard cheeses like manchego, sashimi of lighter fish, mushroom tart, lighter flaky fish like sea bass, chilled or grilled prawns. |
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2018 Grál Borpince Pelzberg Kékfrankos |
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Region / Country of Origin: Tolna, Hungary |
About the Winery: Grál Borprince was started in 2008 by Zalán Mucsi, a third generation winemaker from the Great Hungarian Plains. Initially having his sights set on the nearby region of Szekszárd, known for its full-bodied red blends with a history reaching back to Roman times. After marrying his wife Barbara in her hometown of Gyonk, he also fell in love with the nearby Pelzberg vineyard, and the two bought some land on the hill along with a cellar built in 1880. About the Vineyard: Located in the village of Gyonk in the Tolna region of Hungary north of the Croatian and Serbian borders, the 2.7 hectare (~6.7 acres) on steeply sloped vineyards have been farmed organically since Mucsi took over. Zero absorbable chemicals like pesticides and herbicides have been used. About the Winemaking: 100% Kekfrankos (Blaufrankisch) from Austrian clones undergo a long 24-day maceration and manual punch downs of the solids floating at the top to extract as much color, tannin, and aroma and flavor compounds from the skins and seeds of the grapes. Fermentation happens spontaneously with ambient yeasts in a combination of tanks and open-top vats. The wine is then moved to a combination of smaller first and second use French and Hungarian oak for 22 months before being bottled unfiltered and unfined. Tasting Notes: Pale garnet in the glass with notes of dried red berries like cherry and strawberry, incense, peony, raspberry, and hibiscus. Light bodied with soft but persistent tannins and fresh acidity, the palate is floral and elegant with flavors of watermelon rind, dried cherry and raspberry with a floral and sweetly spicy finish. |
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Winemaker: Zalán Mucsi |
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Price: $28.99 bottle/ $259.09 case |
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Suggested Food Pairings: spicy beef empanadas, barbecued duck, beef rendang, lamb kebabs. |
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