Club Corner
WOM Club September 2026
For September, we wanted to highlight one specific winery from the Loire Valley. The story of La Bergerie begins with Marie-Scolastique Bouhiron, who bought Domaine de la Bergerie by candlelight in 1961. Already a winegrower in Champ-sur-Layon and a descendant of a line of winegrowers, it was with her that the building of the family wine heritage began. Yves Guégniard joined his parents on the farm in 1979. Thanks to the work subsequently carried out with his wife Marie-Annick, the estate took on a new dimension. The great terroirs of Savennières, Coteaux du Layon and Quarts de Chaume have all been added to the Bergerie plot. In 2010, Anne joined her parents on the farm. After training in catering and as a sommelier, she worked for several years in a variety of establishments in the United States, London, and Switzerland, before she decided to return to Anjou and the family estate. Today, these experiences provide her with an essential insight into the development of her vintages. After a career in psychology, Marie, the youngest in the family, took a professional turn. She earned a BS in winemaking in Montpellier and trained for three years at Domaine Roc d’Anglade. In 2018, she reunited with her sister, Anne. Together, they took over the reins of the vineyard. Both represent the eighth generation of winegrowers in the family, and the fourth to work the Bergerie land. In 2024, it’s Amaury’s turn to join the operation. Originally from Champagne, he is also Marie’s husband, and it’s with precision that he brings his viticultural experience to the Bergerie vineyards. Today, with Anne, Marie and Amaury, the family tradition continues, almost 60 years after the arrival of Marie-Scolastique, the great-grandmother of the two sisters. Cheers, The PlumpJack Wine Team 2024 Anjou Blanc Sous La Tonnelle Region / Country of Origin: Anjou, France About the winery: The estate is in the heart of Côteaux du Layon, in the Anjou region of the central Loire Valley. It has always adhered to a high standard of excellence, including green harvesting, strict sorting, and separate vinification of each parcel. Encompassing a total of 89 acres, the vineyards are spread throughout multiple appellations, including Anjou (blanc and rouge), Savennières, Côteaux du Layon, and Quarts de Chaume. In addition to Anne's work as the fourth generation of winemakers just beginning at Domaine de la Bergerie, the entire operation is a family affair: following stints with Alain Ducasse and Joël Robuchon, Anne's husband, David, has opened a beautiful and renowned one-Michelin-star restaurant on the property. His local cuisine is a lovely complement to the outstanding sparkling and still wines made here. The succession of the next generation brings exciting new energy to this property — and fascinating wines. Terroir: Locations: “La Bergerie” – Champ-sur-Layon & “la Girardière” – Rablay-sur-Layon The only one of our white wines made from a blend of plots. Soil: Clay – Schist & Gravel About the winemaking: Slow pressing and light settling. Only one fermentation (using indigenous yeasts) and aging take place in vats for 6 months. Bottling takes place in the spring, following the harvest. Tasting Notes: The “Sous la tonnelle” cuvée has all the freshness and liveliness of the grapes just pressed during the harvest. Carried by notes of yellow fruit, it is light and straightforward. When it comes to tasting, there’s always a good reason to open a bottle of “Sous la tonnelle”! A simple aperitif, or to accompany fresh goat’s cheese with a few candied lemon peels, for example. Winemaker: Yves, Anne, and Marie Guégniard Price: $27.99 Varietal: Chenin Blanc Suggested Food Pairing: Soft Creamy Cheeses, Quick-Seared Scallops, Sautéed Shrimp, Braised Cabbage Dishes 2023 Anjou Rouge La Cerisaie Region / Country of Origin: Anjou, France About the Winery: Anjou Noir is the traditional and geological term to describe the western half of the Anjou region. It is named for its dark soils, mostly composed of schist bedrock. There is also sandstone, poudingues, clay, and many other geological nuances. The 27 hectares that make up the vineyard benefit from and are enriched by this diversity. They are also exposed to a mild oceanic influence. This unique terroir allows us to explore all the facets of the estate’s grape varieties, such as Chenin, Cabernet Franc and Pineau d’Aunis. To preserve and enhance the soils and diversity of the site, the estate has been certified organic since 2016. The history of the Guégniard family has been written on this land for several generations… Terroir: Location: Champ-sur-Layon & Soil: Clay About the winemaking: To favor the fruit, little extraction is carried out; maceration lasts 8 to 10 days. Once fermentation is complete, the pomace is isolated to keep only the free-run juice, which makes up the entire “La Cerisaie” cuvée. Aged 100% in vats for 9 months. Tasting Notes: All stages of winemaking are carried out with a single goal in mind: to focus on the fruit. And that’s exactly what you get when you taste it. This round, fruity cuvée is a good way to discover the varietal notes of a rather charming Cabernet Franc. It’s the perfect accompaniment to light, gourmet moments like Sunday roast chicken. Winemaker: Yves, Anne, and Marie Guégniard Price: $27.99 Varietal: 90% Cabernet Franc & 10% Grolleau Suggested Food Pairing: Roast Chicken, Pan-Roasted Duck, Pan-Fried Mushrooms, Ratatouille, Rustic Pâtés, and Terrines
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May Wine of the Month Club: Languedoc-Rousillon
With around 700,000 acres under vine, the Languedoc-Roussillon region in France is perhaps the largest wine-growing area in the world. Beginning where the Rhone ends in the southeast, the Languedoc (as it’s frequently abbreviated; see below for more on why) follows the Pyrenees mountains down to the Mediterranean, and then traces the coastline from Provence to the Spanish border. It is responsible for one out of every three wine bottles sold in France, and one in ten worldwide. Languedoc-Rousillon is also the oldest wine-producing area in France, as Greek viticulture here started about 3,000 years ago (followed by the Romans, then the monks, and finally everybody else.) That dual administrative identity is a much more recent development though, a marriage of political and economic convenience established in 1982, whose hyphen hides a significant geographical and cultural mis-match. The Languedoc portion is much larger, comprising some 90% of the combined territory and quintessentially French in character (hence the partner-effacing synecdoche.) Rousillon on the other hand, occupies a comparative spec of territory, tucked into France’s southwestern border - and the proximity to Spain means everything, from the street signs, to the accents, to the cuisine, they all bear clear Iberian, more specifically Catalonian, influences. The divide makes for a fascinating, variegated and self-evidently fecund wine scene. Languedoc's vineyards are mostly located on coastal plains, while Roussillon’s are either perched on cliff tops or nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Though Rhone varietals (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan for the reds; Marsanne, Roussane and Grenache Blanc for the white) predominate everywhere, you can find all kinds of grapes in the mix somewhere, planted across an array of soil types and circumstances. There are 38 different appellations in all, from Corbieres - the largest, known for Carignan dominant red blends - to Blanquette de Limoux, which makes affordable sparkling wines. For our two selections this month, we have a white wine from Roussilon, a blend of the Spanish grape Macabeo and Grenache Gris that is, characteristically for the area, farmed organically and biodynamically (Rousillon ranks 1st among French regions in percentage of organic and biodynamic vineyards by hectare) at the base of the Pyrenees; and a red from the Minervois appellation, arguably responsible for Languedoc’s best dark hued bottlings, mostly made from Syrah and Grenache. Cheers! The PlumpJack Wine Team Domaine du Somail Le Vin de Plume Region / Country of Origin: Minervois About the winery: Domaine du Somail is a natural wine estate launched in 2013 by three passionate individuals in the Minervois region. Founded on a love for nature and a commitment to authenticity, Julie, François, and Germain use biodynamic and natural practices to craft wines that reflect the unique connection between earth, vine, and cosmos. Their philosophy is reflected in their use of natural yeasts, biodynamic practices, and herbal treatments for the vines, ensuring a healthy environment for both the land and those who enjoy their wines.The Mediterranean climate is also a big influence in Minervois, with over 315 days of sunshine a year. The topography protects the vineyards from excessive rain, with mountains and hills creating a rain shadow effect. About the winemaking: 80% Mourvedre 20% Syrah. Grapes are handpicked and destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeast in temperature-controlled concrete tanks for around 15 days. Maceration involves pump-overs and unballasting, with no added sulfur dioxide. The wine is pressed using a tilted plate press and aged for 8-12 months in various tanks, resting on fine lees. Tasting Notes: Deep ruby color in the glass. The nose is complex and elegant with notes of iris, violet, almond, cherry and garrigue. On the palate, this wine is fresh, generous and fleshy with notes of flowers, red fruits, and spices. Winemaker: Francois Febress Price: $22.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: This wine is ideal as an aperitif, or paired with grilled rib steak, lentil soup, pork sausage, shiitake mushrooms or with hard cheeses like cheddar, edam or Provolone. Paul Meunier & Lucile Morin Centernach 2020 Les Choremes Blanc Region / Country of Origin: Centernach, Rousillon, FR About the Winery: Paul Meunier is a 5th generation winemaker who grew up in Burgundy at the domain owned by his parents, J.J. Confuron. Following his studies, he traveled in South America for a year, and upon his return got a degree in viticulture and winemaking. For several years he split his time between Lebanon as a contract winemaker and a winemaker’s assistant at a winery in Australia while also teaching at a winemaking school in Chile and sommelier work in Japan. He and partner Lucile Morin eventually moved to the Roussillon village of Centernach, in the upper Agly Valley in 2013-14 where he farms 25 acres. They’ve since experimented with agroforestry, planting trees and hedges to give diversity and protection to their soils and vines. From the start, they’ve worked organically and their oldest parcels are plowed by horse. About the winemaking: 80% Macabeu and 20% Grenache Gris from a single organically farmed parcel planted in 1950 on a high north-facing slope in Saint-Paul-de-Fenouillet along the base of the Pyrenées. The grapes are picked early and harvested and fermented together with ambient yeast in a combination of amphora and stainless steel tank before aging on the lees for 12-18 months in steel tanks. Tasting notes: A pale gold in the glass with a nose reminiscent of citrus tea and wild herbs. Round and plush on the palate with acidity that is present but not overbearing, this wine is a symphony of dried melon, salted lemon, dried herbs, preserved citrus, and an almost sake like note that shows itself as it opens. The finish is long and dry, ending on a savory, citrus peel note. Winemaker: Paul Meunier and Lucile Morin Price: $32.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: Dim sum, tamal en cazuela
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March 2026 Wine of the Month Club: Georgia
GEORGIA While those of us in wine like to spend a lot of time talking about how ancient of a drink it is, most modern wine is a far cry from what those ancient drinks would’ve actually been. Today’s winemaking techniques rarely go back further than the 1800s, even within regions with histories reaching back to Roman times. The wines of Georgia on the other hand feels like a step into the past, born of processes not too different from what has been done for thousands of years. And with renewed local (and international) interest in these classic methods, Georgia is experiencing a wine renaissance at the moment, as younger generations pick up the torch and continue the work of the first, if not the longest running winemaking tradition in the world. Located in the Caucasus Mountains at the intersection between Asia and Europe, with Russia to its north and Turkiye, Armenia, and Azerbaijan to its south, Georgia has long been a crossroads of a wide range of agricultural systems. It was at one time the European centre of domestication for multiple food crops such as wheat, legumes, and V. vinifera, the family of grapes that make up all classic European wine varieties. Grapevines are a deep cultural part of the Georgian identity, with hundreds of different varieties and vines planted on most properties, where century-old rooted plants are a regular occurrence. As noted by ethnobotanist Aurora Prehn, “the only part of the plant that is not used with any regularity is the root and vine trunk, which are burned as fuel only once the vine has died. Vines and vineyards are seen as living entities in the Georgian perspective … . Vine trimmings, a byproduct of cultivation, are dried and used for fuel, most favored for barbequing meat, or Mtsvadi (მწვადი). Further, leaves picked when green are preserved and used culinarily, commonly for the beloved tolma (ტოლმა), or grape leaves stuffed with meat and rice. In one form or another the grape harvest is preserved and nothing goes to waste. The byproducts of winemaking are used for livestock fodder or fertilizer, and the must (the seeds and skins at the bottom of wine fermentation tanks) is often distilled to make a clear spirit called chacha (ჭაჭა), sometimes consumed during the long haul of winemaking. ”* The history of winemaking in the region goes back millenia, with the oldest evidence unearthed in a Neolithic era site in eastern Georgia. There, scientists identified and dated unglazed clay vessels used in winemaking and storage, known as qvevri or churi, via the residue of tartaric acid fragments, going back to 6000 BCE. While evidence of older fermented beverages have been discovered elsewhere, like the residue of wild grapes, hawthorn, rice, and honey from between 7000-6800 BCE found in the Henan province in north-central China, this remains the earliest example of what we could consider as wine. And with over 500 distinct varieties of grapes, the Georgian region is considered the origin of most V. vinifera. Grapevine culture was introduced into Christianity around the 4th century CE when it arrived here, and the veneration of wine was assimilated into the precursor of Orthodox Christianity. A powerful Georgian kingdom reigned between the 10th and 13th centuries, and this was the golden age of wine in the area, as viticulture constituted a key pillar of both the agricultural and economic engines of the country. This was followed by waves of Ottoman, Iranian, and eventually Russian rule starting in 1510 and not ending until the collapse of the Soviet Union in the late 1980 through 1990s. As with much of Europe, the 19th and 20th centuries were hard for Georgia. Phylloxera and fungal diseases devastated the country by the end of the 19th century, reducing the amount of land planted under vine by half. As part of the USSR, Georgia thrived as one of the centers of winemaking, though some would argue that quality was negatively affected by the Soviet model of pushing out large quantities of affordable wine. An anti-alcohol campaign undertaken by Mikhail Gorbachev between 1985-1987 further reduced vineyard plantings, though mostly for state vineyards as Georgians refused to pull out their vines. Through secessionist movements and political turmoil in the nineties and aughts, Georgian wine slowly underwent a qualitative renaissance and has gained international recognition, even gaining UNESCO acknowledgment for its use of traditional winemaking techniques utilising qvevri. We hope you enjoy these distinctive wines as much as we have. გაიხარე! Justin Malesheetz, Fillmore Wine Buyer * https://discoverandshare.org/2021/11/11/grafting-the-grape-the-rich-history-of-georgian-winemaking/ Chateau Mere 2023 Saperavi Qvevri Region/Country of Origin: Kakheti, Alazani Valley, Georgia About the Winery: Chateau Mere is a signature line within the winery Winiveria which was founded by George Piridashvili in the early 2000s, in the wake of the Georgian wine market revival with the goal of producing high-quality wines using indigenous grape varieties and traditional techniques to promote the great value of Georgian wines worldwide. Established in the Alazani Valley in 2014 as part of a destination winery and resort complex. The winery collaborates with local growers and a nearby cooperative to produce high quality wines made in both traditional Georgian and classical European styles. About the winemaking: 100% Saperavi, a dark colored and tannic grape with vibrant acidity, from organically farmed vineyards in the Signaghi region in the Alazani River Valley. Grapes are hand-harvested and crushed before fermenting on the skins, stalks, and seeds while being stirred by hand for one month in qvevri. The wine is then aged for a year before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Tasting Notes: Deep violet with a nose of black currant, black plum, and savory mineral notes. Medium bodied with balanced acidity and fine grained tannins, the wine is bursting with flavors of dark red fruits, dried herbs, black plum, cranberry, with a long earthy finish. Winemaker: Vano Giligashvili Price: $29.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled steak, beef or lamb stew, grilled sausages, roast vegetables Iago’s Wine “Iago” 2023 Chinuri Amber Wine Region / Country of Origin: Chardakhi, Kartli, Georgia About the Winery: Located in a rural village in the central Georgian region of Kartli, Iago Bitarishvili’s family, like most in Georgia, had long been cultivating grapes and making wine for personal consumption. In 1998 Igor decided to switch from the more conventional mode of cultivation to organic farming, and in 2003 bottled his first commercial vintage. In 2005 he received a Bio Certificate making his vineyards the first in Georgia to be organically certified. By 2006 he was exporting his wine. Iago is also one of the founding fathers of the Natural Wine Association in Georgia and in 2012 his wife Marina was the first woman in Georgia to make natural qvevri wine for the commercial market. About the winemaking: 100% Chinuri, an acidic grape that produces wines with moderate alcohol, from 65 year old organically farmed vines. The grapes are hand harvested and whole bunches are placed into traditional large earthenware amphorae built into the floor called qvevri and fermented on the skins for three weeks with punchdowns between 2 and 4 times a day at the start. When the stalks and skins (known here as chacha) have settled and the secondary malolactic fermentation has occurred, the wine is pumped to a new qvevri, where it ages for six months. Tasting Notes: A slightly hazy amber, the nose is a heady mix of marmalade, orange rind, tea, citrus peel, and fresh herbs. Light bodied with subdued acidity and light grippy tannins, this wine coats the mouth with flavors of bergamot, perfume flowers, apple, and elderflower with a dry citrusy finish. Winemaker: Iago Bitarishvili Price: $31.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: grilled fish, poke, roast duck, goat cheese, pickled vegetables, khachapurri, vegetable pate
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Italian Wine Club February 2026: Piemonte
French historian Jules Michelet used to begin his lectures on British history, with the seemingly unnecessary proclamation, “Messieurs, l’Angleterre est une ile.” “You guys, England is an island.” Obvious certainly, but it sure clarifies all that is to follow. There is, after all, an important difference between “simply knowing that Britain is an island” and “whether we interpret its history in the light of that fact, which thus takes on a significance of its own.”* Take this tack with Italy/Italian wine, and we might lead with: Italy is mostly uphill. The fact that it occupies a peninsula (Appenine) named for the mountain range that traverses it, is probably the biggest clue, but if (like me) you haven’t spent much time there you might be surprised to learn that fully 75% of Italy is hills and mountains. It is a geographical characteristic that has had a dramatic effect on pretty much every aspect of its development, cuisine and wine included. For centuries, getting from one town to another was a huge hassle, and as a result, products grown successfully in one valley might never make it to the valley next door. So even though both wines we are featuring this month technically come from Piedmont, the northeastern region famed for its Barbaresco and Barolo, they each very much occupy their own altitude, offering singular vistas that warrant a separate summit. To the funicular! Indeed, Piedmont actually means “at the foot of the mountain” in Italian. It’s surrounded on three sides by the Alps, including the Monte Rosa, and the Monviso, where the Po River rises. The region borders France, Switzerland, and the Italian regions of Lombardy, Liguria, Emilia-Romagna and Val d’Aosta, and encompasses 8 provinces: Turin, Alessandria, Asti, Biella, Cuneo, Novara, Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, and Vercelli. Located in the southeastern part of Piedmont, in the Alessandria province bordering Lombardy, Colli Tortenesi is mostly hills and valleys as it rises from the Po River plains to heights of 1,700 meters in the Apennines. The climate is humid, influenced positively by the Ligurian sea and receives the lowest rainfall in the region, with a considerable temperature range throughout the day, which contributes to the intense aromatics of the wine. Located in the southeastern part Piedmont, adjacent to Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy, Colli Tortenesi was founded by the Ligurians, before becoming a Roman colony called Derthona in 148 BCE, the first such outpost under imperial rule west of the Po River Valley. The area has a transitional topography of hills and valleys as it rises from the plains of the Po River to heights of 1,700 meters in the Apennines, all of which contribute to the diversity of soil and climate. Much of the soil, formed during the Tortonian age, between 5 and 15 million years ago, is a mix of calcareous clay, with ancient marine deposits, limestone and a surface layer of sand. The climate is humid, influenced positively by the Ligurian sea and receives the lowest rainfall in the region, with a considerable temperature range throughout the day, which contributes to the intense aromatics of the wine. It has historically been known for the red grape Barbera, which is grown in many other places in Northern Italy (see below), but today its calling card is arguably Timorasso, a highly distinctive white grape and Colli Tortenesi’s only autochthonous varietal. On the verge of extinction as recently as 1987, a local winemaker Walter Massa began acting on his hunch that some of the family vineyards were better suited to growing white grapes. The (eventual) result has been a Timorasso renaissance as others have discovered that this thick and waxy skinned varietal produces age-worthy and distinguished white wine, boasting floral notes, bright acidity and orchard fruit flavors in its youth, and capable of developing petrol, almond and honeyed characteristics as it matures. Timorasso has been alternately likened to Chablis, Riesling and Chenin Blanc which is proof enough of its uniqueness. La Colombera’s version, which we are featuring this month, is excellent. The red hails from Alba, in the Cuneo province, in the South west corner of Piedmont. It is made from the aforementioned Barbera grape, which is believed to be native to Italy, though its origins are obscure enough that it is difficult to be certain. In any event, Barbera is today one of Italy’s most widely planted red varietals, prized for its ability to shine in all kinds of contexts, from a reliable single varietal table red (it is known as the “people’s wine” in Piedmont) to a sympathetic blending partner to a sparkling version known as Verbesco. This ubiquity is probably why we’ve never featured a single varietal Barbera in IWC before; it's an easy grape to take for granted. But having sampled the new vintage from Oddero, one of my favorite Piemont producers, recently, I was struck anew with all the qualities that make Barbera such a popular dinner guest. At its best, which this bottling is, Barbera is conversant with most social and/or culinary lingua franca - and comfortable enough in its own skin not to try too hard to prove it. You rarely encounter a less needy wine, in other words - and sometimes that demands recognition. Salud, Alan Hicks- Wine Buyer PlumpJack Wine & Spirits Noe Valley *(Appropriating this story from Leszek Kolakowski’s Main Currents of Marxism where he uses it to explain starting his tome with the similarly dome-cracking: “Karl Marx was a German philosopher.”) Le Colombera Timorasso 2024 Region: Collo Tortonesi, Piedmont Italy About the Winery: Based in the village of Vho on the outskirts of Tortona, or Derthona as the Romans called it, La Colombera is a third generation, 22 ha property planted most notably with the indigenous white wine grape Timorasso; all within a mile of the winery. In 1961 Renato Semino planted the first of La Colombera’s vineyards: Vigna Brusa. During the 1970s, Renato’s son, Piercarlo began working the vineyards and decided in the 1980s to begin making wine himself, rather than sell off the fruit, building a small winery in 1996. Then, in 1997, with the outbreak of flavescenza dorata that decimated their largely rented vineyards, they were encouraged to plant the varietal that would become their passion, Timorasso, for the first time. Over the next two years, the Semino family took a leap of faith, purchasing their vineyards and building a new commercial winery. In 2000, Piercarlo’s daughter Elisa returned from her viticultural studies in Milan to join the family business & to focus the family’s energy on the production of Timorasso. In 2013, Elisa’s brother Lorenzo joined the family business, and in 2014 they fermented the Timorasso wine, ‘Derthona,’ for the first time, using wild yeasts. Today, the Semino family continues to expand their viticulture, adding three new hectares to their holdings in 2017. About the Winemaking: '100% Timorasso, from several vineyards on our property, planted between 1997 and 2000. The vines are located between 270 and 300 meters (900 to 1,000 feet) above sea level. The soils include both light and dark limestone-rich clay. Harvest takes place typically in the middle of September. The grapes are macerated in the press for three hours before pressing; the wine is then fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks, and aged on the fine lees for at least 10 months before bottling. The wine is cold-stabilized and filtered. Residual sweetness is 1.2 g/L (dry), and the SO2 is 70 ppm at bottling. Sixteen thousand bottles are produced each year. Tasting Notes: On the nose the young wine shows notes of white peach, honey, acacia, hawthorn blossom, and chamomile, developing smoky and mineral notes with age. On the palate, there are savory notes that remind one of our clay soils. The fresh acidity of the wine allows it to improve in the bottle for many years.' Winemaker: Eliza & Lorenzo Semina Price per bottle / Price per case $33.99/$367.10 Suggested Food Pairing: Fonduta (Piedmontese cheese fondue) Risotto w/ white truffle Raw vegetables with bagna cauda (the local dip made from hazelnut oil, anchovies, peppers, garlic and cream.) aged cheeses like Montebore Seafood, Spicy foods Oddero Barbera D’Alba 2022 Region: Barbera D’Alba DOC, Piedmont. About the Winemaker: Oddero is one of the great, historic, traditional Barolo houses with a long history spanning over 200 years. There are mentions of the Oddero family in La Morra as far back as the 1700s, though the family was likely there even before that point. The winery was among the first producers to estate bottle their Barolo – in the late 1800s, a time when most wine was sold in bulk either by demijohn or barrel. There are even records of their wine being sold to the USA at that point as well. It was Giacomo Oddero (born 1926) and his brother Luigi (born 1928) who brought the winery into the modern era. They renovated their ancient farmhouse, elevated their wine quality, and extended their vineyard holdings. For years, the estate has quietly sold a good portion of its wines to a loyal clientele, much of it to restaurants in Italy. As such, they have remained somewhat under-the-radar amongst the tier of traditional Baroli. Giacomo’s daughter Mariacristina joined the winery in 1997 after studying Agronomic Science and Enology at the University of Torino. But after a few years, she and Luigi, both very strong-headed characters, had a challenging time working together and decided to separate. She kept the historic cellars in La Morra and much of the historic vineyards, and he formed his own winery in 2006, called Luigi Oddero e Figli. Today, Mariacristina’s son Pietro and niece Isabella are taking over and represent the seventh generation in the family to run the winery. They are both hugely committed to raising the reputation of the winery and have made significant investments in the vineyards and cellar to continue to help elevate the level of quality at this venerable estate. About the Winemaking: 100% Barbera. Certified organic. From vineyards planted between 2000 and 2005, on Tortonian soil (calcareous marl and sandstone.) Harvested in late September it goes through 10 days maceration and controlled low temperature fermentation in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts , followed by malolactic fermentation in November. 100% aged in 50-hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months. Blended in the spring, bottled in the summer. Tasting Notes: Intense ruby-red color with purple tinges, a bouquet of pure cherry, blackberry, black pepper and mineral flavors with an excellent dash of freshness. Elegant but intense, tannins are soft and fresh in the mouth, with a fine length. Winemaker: Pietro & Isabella Oddero Price per bottle / Price per case $29.99/$323.90 Suggested Food Pairing: Pretty much any tomato based dishes Pizza Grilled meats or vegetables Risotto Mildly spicy Asian dishes Panissa (Piedmontese Rice & Beans) This rich, robust dish makes the most of Piedmont’s famous rice and wine, with plenty of salami and beans strewn throughout. Cooked like a risotto but with a firmer, thicker texture, it’s a beautiful dish, which deserves to be more well-known outside the region. Ingredients: 1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 200g salami, finely chopped or whizzed into a paste (see Know-how) 800ml vegetable stock 400g tin or jar borlotti beans, including their liquid 300g carnaroli risotto rice 2 tbsp tomato purée 300ml robust red wine, ideally barbera d’asti 100g parmesan, finely grated 20g salted butter Parsley to serve Bread to serve (optional) Instructions: Heat the oil in a large hobsafe casserole or pan over a medium heat. Stir in the onion and a pinch of salt, then cook for about 8 minutes until softened. Stir in the salami and cook for about 4 minutes until starting to brown. Meanwhile, heat the stock in another pan and add the beans, including their liquid. Keep warm over a low heat. Stir the rice into the onions and cook for a few minutes, stirring regularly, until starting to turn translucent. Add the tomato purée and cook for 1 minute Pour in the wine and simmer for a few minutes. Add a few ladlefuls of the stock mixture to the rice at a time, ensuring the rice is always covered with liquid, and allow to bubble gently for 20-25 minutes, stirring constantly and topping up as needed, until all the liquid and beans are added and the rice is tender. Remove from the heat, cover with a lid and leave to stand for 5 minutes. Stir in most of the parmesan and the butter. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper. Serve with the remaining parmesan and some parsley leaves scattered over.
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December 2025 Wine of the Month Club
DOMAINE GREGOIRE HOPPENOT With Thanksgiving in the rearview mirror and Christmas and Chanukah right around the corner, we’re ending the year with a pair of wines from a newer producer of Cru Beaujolais who has quickly made a name for himself. He received “Discovery of the Year” from Revue du Vin de France in 2020 after only two vintages, and his wines are now sought after throughout Europe and the East Coast. Founded in 2018 in Fleurie, Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot has rapidly emerged as one of the most exciting names in Beaujolais. After years of experience in Burgundy and Beaujolais, Grégoire Hoppenot established his own domaine, now covering around 10 hectares across some of the region’s finest crus, including Fleurie and Morgon. After gaining experience at Domaine Chermette, Maison Trénel, and Cave des Vignerons de Bel-Air, Grégoire struck out on his own and immediately began to gain recognition in the wine world, receiving high scores from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate in his first vintage. His philosophy is centered on organic farming, low intervention, and parcel-by-parcel vinification, creating wines that are deeply expressive of their granite-based terroirs. The result is elegant wines with freshness, energy, and silky tannins that are ready to drink now while maintaining strong aging potential. Situated on the western side of the Beaujolais hills overlooking the Saône River Valley, vineyards in Fleurie are planted on south- and southeast-facing slopes of pink granite soils. At higher elevations, the soil tends to be rougher and sandier, creating light, elegant wines with floral and red-fruited notes. On the lower slopes, richer clay soils produce denser, more structured wines, at times resembling Moulin-à-Vent to the east. Like much of this part of France, winemaking here dates back as far as the 1st century BC, with Benedictine monks maintaining and tending the vineyards from the 7th to the 10th centuries, producing wine largely for themselves and local lords. These sites were expanded by the Lyonnais bourgeoisie in the 15th century, and by the 1700s Beaujolais wines were sought after by merchants in Lyon, with the name Fleurie appearing in written reports. In 1927, a decree precisely defined the wine-growing area of Fleurie, leading to the official creation of the Fleurie AOC in 1936 and the definitive consolidation of the appellation as one of the Beaujolais crus. Santé, Justin Malesheetz, Fillmore Wine Buyer Domaine Hoppenot 2023 Fleurie "Origines" Region / Country of Origin: Fleurie, FR About the winemaking: This vintage’s release is 100% Gamay Noir that was mostly from Clos de la Roilette, with small amounts from the Les Garants and Les Roches lieux dits. Originally part of the Moulin-a-Vent appellation, Clos de Roilette is one of the most renowned sites in Fleurie. Planted at lower elevation on flatter and deeper clay and granite soils, the wine made from this site tends to be richer and more structured than a lot of Fleurie. The grapes were hand harvested and underwent maceration for 10–12 days with whole clusters in 60 hl concrete vats. Temperatures are kept below 30°C and daily pumping over for gentle extraction of color and tannins. The wine is then vinified with ambient yeast, without SO2. Tasting Notes: Ruby in the glass with a nose of graphite, raspberry jellies, potting soil, black cherry, and iron. Medium bodied with firm tannins and bright acidity, this is a more complex, almost Burgundian take on Beaujolais. Mineral, slightly savory on the palate with brooding dark red fruit and cherry liquor flavors swirling around a liquid rock core with a long stony finish. While drinking beautifully now, it will easily age nicely in the next 2–5 years. Winemaker: Grégoire Hoppenot Price: $24.99 btl/$280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Dim sum, chicken mole, seared tuna steak, roast chicken, smoked ham, adobo, chicken teriyaki, grilled sausages. Famille Hoppenot 2023 Beaujolais Blanc Region / Country of Origin: Fleurie, FR About the winemaking: 100% Chardonnay from certified organic 40-year-old vines in the northern part of Beaujolais just south of the Mâcon in the Creches-sur-Saone in clay and limestone soils. Hand harvested and fermented in stainless steel before aging for 6–12 months in a combination of small to medium neutral French oak barrels before bottling. Tasting Notes: Pale gold in the glass with an opulent nose of dried pineapple, apricot, elderflower, orange sherbet, and a faint mineral note. Medium bodied with moderate acidity and a lush mouthfeel in perfect contrast to the dry finish, the wine is bursting at the seams with flavors of orange blossom, baked apple, pineapple, and apricot with a long mineral and floral finish. Winemaker: Grégoire Hoppenot Price: $24.99 btl/$269.89 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Goat cheese with citrus preserves, soft cheese in general, lobster roll, mussels in garlic.
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Wine of the Month November: Château de Vaux
While Moselle is one of the newest AOCs in France, having received the status only in 2011, the history of this small AOC in the Lorraine IGP—based around the cities of Metz and Nancy in the northeast, bordered by Alsace to the east and Luxembourg and Germany to the north—dates back to Gallo-Roman times. Defined by the foothills of the Vosges Mountains and a series of river valleys based around the Meuse, Ornain, and Moselle Rivers, this cool continental climate has been prized for its vineyards since 276 AD, when Emperor Probus issued an edict authorizing vine cultivation in northern Gaul, and the entire Metz region became known for its vineyards. The influence of the Moselle vineyards continued throughout the Middle Ages, as abbeys, religious institutions, and lordships regularly purchased Moselle wines. With Louis XIV’s revocation of the Edict of Nantes—originally put in place by Henry IV in 1598 to grant some religious and political protection for the Calvinist-Protestant Huguenots—vineyards were abandoned by the largely Protestant landowners, and the land was divided up by lottery; the Parliament of Metz was staffed with people of Burgundian origin who continued overseeing the vineyards. By the beginning of the 19th century, the region was known for its Pinot Noir, which was prized for its use in sparkling wine. By midcentury, industrialization and urbanization threatened vineyards as land was used for further development, though tenant farmers and sharecroppers kept the vineyards alive, going into debt to buy back vineyards. The region was thrown into further turmoil with the annexation of the Moselle by Germany following the Franco-Prussian War, with German merchants using the fruit from the vineyards to make Sekt. By the eve of the Moselle’s return to France in 1893, it was on the verge of becoming a “second Champagne,” with Roederer & Co. sourcing grapes from Longeville-lès-Metz and Paille-Laurent from Moulin-Gravelotte. The 20th century brought phylloxera, two world wars, and the establishment of the Champagne AOC, leading to the relocation of large estates—all of which devastated the region. This was exacerbated by large amounts of debt and an individualist streak among many winegrowers: diseased vines were not replanted with grafted vines, and a cooperative was not created to help weather the crisis. By 1986, there were only 10 hectares producing wine in the region. In 1999, Norbert Molozay and his wife, Marie-Genevieve Molozay, purchased a small estate in the village of Vaux from a librarian who had revived viticulture in the region by planting the first vines on three hectares. Norbert, a Beaujolais native trained in Dijon, was a “flying winemaker”—a traveling consultant working in various cellars and vineyards around the world—with experience in New Zealand, Australia, the U.S., Burgundy, Beaujolais, Alsace, and the Languedoc. Marie-Genevieve, a Metz native whose family had been wine merchants for five generations, is a trained scientist who pivoted to oenology, receiving a degree in Dijon. The two immediately fell in love with the estate—a 16th-century château that had been used for the production of sparkling wine under German rule—and were excited by the potential of the region, with its mix of well-draining marl and limestone soils and its south- and southeast-facing vineyards protecting it from the cool, damp weather coming from the west. They began consolidating parcels (they now own one‑third of the vineyards in the region) and changed agricultural practices, starting organic conversion in 2010 and receiving Demeter certification in 2014, having converted to full biodynamic farming. No animal products are used in the making or bottling of the wine. They make pristine, easy‑drinking wines that will be perfect for your holiday table. Cheers, Justin Malesheetz- Wine Buyer Fillmore Chateau de Vaux Molozay 2022 Moselle Pinot Noir Les Hautes Bassières Region / Country of Origin: Vaux, Moselle, FR About the winemaking: 100% Pinot Noir from Demeter certified vineyards harvested manually and destemmed. The grapes macerate for three weeks with daily punch downs to extract color, tannins and aromatic compounds from the skins. The processed juice is then blended with the free-run juice and fermented in stainless steel, then aged in a wide range of barrels for 12 months before blending and bottling. Tasting Notes: Pale ruby in the glass with a nose of morello cherry, peony, and slate. Medium bodied with vibrant acidity and silky tannins, this dry pinot is bursting with flavors of fresh herbs and tart cherries with a savory mineral note shining through on the long finish. Vineyard Manager: Norbert & Marie-Genevieve Molozay Price: $25.99 btl/ $280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Chicken pot pie, coq au vin, mushroom croquettes, Thanksgiving dinner. Chateau de Vaux Molozay 2024 Moselle Blanc Les Gryphées Region / Country of Origin: Vaux, Moselle, FR About the winemaking: A blend of 50% Auxerrois, 20% Müller-Thurgau, 20% Pinot Gris, and 10% Gewürtztraminer that goes into a pneumatic press once it arrives from the vineyards and is vinified separately in vats at low temperatures. Tasting Notes: Bright nose of white flowers, grapefruit, and lemon zest. Dry and on the lighter side of medium-bodied with a roundness that is framed with bright acidity, this wine is bursting with flavors of ripe stone and citrus fruit with a long mineral finish. Winemaker: Norbert & Marie-Genevieve Molozay Price: $23.99 btl/ $259.09 cs Suggested Food Pairing: scallops, chicken fricassee, vegetable terrine, mussels, richer fishes like trout and salmon, pasta with cream based sauces.
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October Wine of the Month Club: Mediterranean Varietals in California
California Mediterranean Varietals The origins of California wine are rooted in Spanish history. Spanish grapes first arrived in what was then Alta California with the Franciscan padres, including Father Junipero Serra, in the late 1700s. They planted Listán Prieto (aka the Mission grape) throughout Southern and Central California. As Catholics, the Spanish valued grapes and red wine as essential symbols in both their rituals and culture. The padres became known for cultivating drought-tolerant, hedge-pruned vines, and their viticultural techniques and tools were passed down to California’s early grape growers. While the Mission grape fared poorly in the cooler areas around Mission San José and Mission Santa Cruz, it thrived in the warmer regions of the Central Valley and Sonoma. By the mid-19th century, nurseries were propagating vines from across Europe. Italian and Spanish varieties flourished in the state’s warm, Mediterranean climate. The Gold Rush brought waves of immigrants eager to slake their thirst with the oceans of wine produced in Santa Clara, Napa, the Central Valley, and Sonoma. Between 1850 and 1890, wine production ramped up across the state as settlers and viticultural pioneers began importing cuttings. Italian immigrants, one of the largest groups to arrive during this period, brought agricultural expertise and found the climate similar to that of their homeland. As a result, wineries sprang up throughout the state in the late 19th century. Prohibition, enforced by the Volstead Act beginning in January 1920, forced nearly all of California’s wineries to shut down. Although the 18th Amendment was ratified in 1919, the nationwide ban on alcohol sales took effect the following year. Yet vineyard acreage grew in some regions, as grape concentrate was shipped nationwide and sacramental wine continued to be produced for the Catholic Church. These measures kept the industry alive, though vastly diminished. By the time Prohibition ended in 1933, the number of wineries in California had plummeted from about 700 to just 40. Following the repeal of Prohibition, the wine industry emphasized quantity. Once again, a sea of cheap, sweet wine flowed from the Central Valley. By 1952, Mission was still the fourth most planted red grape, and Palomino led among white varieties. Wines of many types were generically labeled “Burgundy,” “Chablis,” and the like, and although most California “Chablis” was made of Chardonnay, the “Burgundies” were made from blends of Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Syrah, Petite Verdot, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon; little to no Pinot Noir was included. Although the 1970s and 1980s saw a rise in Mediterranean plantings used for quality winemaking, it wasn’t until the 1990s and early 2000s that winemakers and enthusiasts began to rediscover the hidden gems scattered throughout the state. While Spanish varieties are steadily gaining attention, they still make up only a small portion of California’s vineyards compared to classic grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay—so we’re especially excited to share this month’s selections with you. Cheers! Justin Malesheetz Fillmore Wine Buyer 2023 Orixe Sotelo “Soto” Godello Region / Country of Origin: Sonoma, CA USA About the winery: Orixe Sotelo is the passion project of husband and wife team Gustavo and Jackie Sotelo. Originally from Mexico City, Gustavo has spent over 15 years working in such wineries as Etude, Mumm, Bodegas Mauro (the personal project of Mariano Garcia, who had been winemaker at the legendary Vega Sicilia for 30 years), and finally Scribe, where he is the current Director of Winemaking. Jackie, a UC Berkeley graduate with a certificate from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has spent an equal amount of time working on the marketing and sales side of wine with such wineries as Ashes & Diamonds and Bedrock Wine Co. Their focus is on Spanish varietals as they believe these grapes are best suited for the climate of California. About the winemaking: 100% Godello, the first planted in the state, from Birdland Vineyard at the base of Sonoma Mountain in the town of Glen Ellen. After a light crushing and sitting on the skins for three hours, the grapes were pressed and transferred to 500-liter puncheon where it underwent primary fermentation but not malolactic fermentation. The wine was then aged 10 months on its lees. Tasting Notes: Pale gold in the glass with a nose of fresh grapefruit, lime, menthol, and dried herbs. Vibrant acidity on the palate with a waxy roundness and flavors of ripe green citrus with a long dry mineral finish. Winemaker: Gustavo Sotelo Price: $25.99 btl/$280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Smoked salmon, sushi, grilled seafood 2022 Perlegos Winery Duetto Red Blend Region / Country of Origin: Clement Hills, Lodi, CA USA About the Winery: John and Jeff Perlegos' family has been farming in Lodi since the 1950s. 1st generation Americans born of Greek immigrants, they grew up on a vineyard and helped their parents with irrigation work and at their general store during summer. While they only started making wine in 2020, the grapes from their vineyard have been used by such wineries as Bedrock Wine Co, Sabelli Frisch, and Maître de Chai. About the winemaking: 50% Nero d’Avola from Fernow Ranch, an organic, no till vineyard in the northern end of Lodi near the town of Acampo, and 50% Zinfandel from the Perlegos own Stampede Vineyard in the Clement Hills AVA of Lodi that was planted in the 1920s. Grapes the vineyards were destemmed and fermented separately with ambient yeasts. The wines are then aged for 16 months in neutral French oak before being blended at bottling. Tasting Notes: Deep garnet in color with a nose of dark cherry, potpourri, and fresh red and black bramble fruit. On the lighter side of medium bodied with refreshing acidity and fine grained tannins with flavors of dark cocoa, raspberries, and tart black fruit with a dry, long earthy finish. Winemaker: John and Jeff Perlegos Price: $24.99 btl/$269.89 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Lamb, barbacoa, grilled pork chops, carne asada, barbecue chicken
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September Wine of the Month: Baden-Württemberg
Nestled in the south, surrounded by the Black Forest Range to the east and running along the Rhine River from the French/Swiss border to the west, the state of Baden-Württemberg is one of the sunniest regions in Germany, consistently producing quality red wines for over a millenia. Until recently, Germany was known mostly for its age-worthy white wines, both sweet and dry, but with climate change, the country is increasingly recognized for its dry reds. These two regions, with their high elevations and warmer climates (relative to the rest of Germany), are similar to the Loire Valley, Alsace, and Champagne, and have been leading the charge in this regard for decades. Both produce a greater amount of red wine than most German regions, with Baden having the largest amount of red grapes planted. This is mostly Pinot Noir, but with the higher temperatures, some Syrah and even Cabernet Sauvignon are able to ripen. Württemberg, for its part, is planted with around 70% red wine grapes, predominantly the lighter bodied Schiava grape, known here as Trollinger, which migrated from its home in Northern Italy in the 14th century. While wild grapes have been growing along the Rhine River Valley since prehistoric times, viticulture came to Germany with the Romans in the first century. They planted along the steep slate and limestone-rich soils of the Rhine and Mosel in order to provision far-flung imperial outposts battling local Germanic Tribes. When the Roman Empire fell, the Catholic Church became the stewards of these vineyards. First Benedictine and then Cistercean monks planted vineyards and meticulously documented the best areas for growing grapes. Under the reign of Charlemagne in the 8th century, these monasteries became the hub of wine culture in the country as wine was found to be a safer alternative to the often polluted water. Pinot Noir, here known as Spätburgunder, is said to have arrived in Baden around the late 9th century, via German emperor Charles the 3rd, who brought it from north-eastern France and planted it near Lake Constance, just above the Swiss-German border. Known as “Clevner” in Baden for hundreds of years afterwards, the grape spread further afield as nuns and monks fanned out from Burgundy to establish convents and monasteries. Wine remained a staple in Germany through most of the Middle Ages, with four times as much land planted to vine as there is today. It wasn’t until the 16th century that beer started its ascent in the country, with more and more land previously used for winemaking transitioning to food crops. This shift was exacerbated by the ravages of the Thirty Years’ War as well as the Protestant Reformation, leading to the dissolution of monasteries where winemaking knowledge was concentrated. These factors were compounded by the Little Ice Age, a period of cold, dry temperatures starting in the 1300s that reached their coolest around 1650, and led to widespread famine due to crop failure. Napoleonic law splintered vineyards even further, leading to a rise in cooperatives in these southern regions. After World War Two, the regions, which had been independent German states, were merged and split between French and American occupation. For most of the 20th century, the local wines suffered from the same poor reputation as most of Germany’s output, producing light, semi-sweet and undistinguished bottlings, apart from a few producers. This started to change towards the end of the century with more vintners focusing on quality dry wines. These days the wines of Württemberg are good enough to garner recognition despite the fact that most never leave Germany, and many are consumed within the state itself. Württemberg and Baden are both areas worth keeping an eye on as our selections this month demonstrate. Prost! Justin Malesheetz - Fillmore Wine Buyer 2022 Weingut Siegloch Muskateller Region / Country of Origin: Winnenden, Württemberg, DE About the winery: Initially established in 1993 with the merging of the vineyard holdings of the Klöpfer family based out of Winnenden and the Siegloch family of nearby Cannstadt. Since their father's death in 2014, the winery has been run by brothers David and Markus Siegloch. They have focused on sustainable viticulture and a hands-off approach in the cellar. About the winemaking: 100% Gelber Muskateller from sustainably farmed estate vineyards planted on steep pebble sandstone soils at elevations up to 1400ft that undergoes ambient fermentation and is aged on the lees in stainless steel for about 6 months before being bottled without fining, making this wine vegan. Tasting Notes: Pale straw in the glass with a bright perfumed nose with aromas of elderflower, limes, stone fruits, and lychee. Bright with vibrant acidity, lightly effervescent, light-bodied, and just off dry at 11.2 g/L of residual sugar (dry wines can be anywhere between 0 and 10 g/L of residual sugar), this wine is perfect for warm weather with its flavors of white grapes, fresh limeade, and elderflower and a long fresh finish. Winemaker: David Siegloch Price: $24.99 btl/$269.89 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Fresh fruit tart, Salmon with a ginger glaze, seafood curries, spicy katsu sandwich 2021 Weingut Schloss Ortenberg “Granit” Spätburgunder Region / Country of Origin: Ortenberg, Ortenau, DE About the Winery: This historic vineyard surrounding Ortenberg Castle on the steep granite slopes on the edge of the Black Forest was among a handful in Germany that was publicly owned and was the largest communal winery in Germany. Originally an offshoot of the Saint Andreas Hospital founded in 1300 by the citizens of Offenburg that sustained itself from donations, winemaking was started in 1407 after the donation of the first vineyard. This was merged with another municipal winery in the area, the Schloss Ortenberg wine-growing experimental estate that was formed in 1950 to revive the winemaking tradition of the former castle owners. The estate was taken over in 2021 by hotelier Thomas Althoff, who has invested heavily in the vineyards and under whose watch the vineyard has gained wider acclaim not only in Germany, but on an international stage. The winery continued to be managed by Ortenau native Matthias Wolf, who worked in New Zealand and South Africa before returning to the region he was raised in. The vineyards are cultivated sustainably, utilizing techniques such as pheromonal interference instead of insecticides, organic fertilization, and composting, as well as being innovative in regard to enclosure by eliminating cork in 2004. About the winemaking: 100% Pinot Noir from 25-year-old sustainably farmed vines planted on steep west-facing granitic soils that were hand harvested and partially destemmed before undergoing a 4-day cold maceration to extract more color and aroma compounds before fermenting in stainless steel tanks for 7 days. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and extended lees contact and is then aged for 18 months in a combination of new casks and used barriques. Tasting Notes: Pale garnet in the glass, this wine is perfect for those who like their pinots on the earthy side. Almost syrah-like on the nose with a mix of smokey peppery aromas intermingled with notes of black cherry, crushed rocks, graphite, menthol, and oolong tea. The palate is equally brooding with moderate tannins and racing acidity framing flavors of dark cherry, pomegranate, raspberry jam, dried violets, and truffles with a dry earthy floral finish. Winemaker: Hanspeter Rieflin Price: $24.99 btl/$269.89 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Smoked cheeses, game, braised vegetables, mushroom risotto, Jägerschnitzel, limburger, bratwurst
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August Wine of the Month Club: Sud Ouest
While most are familiar with Bordeaux or the Armagnac made in the Gascogne region, not as many are aware of the wines of this corner of France. The Sud Ouest is nestled between the Atlantic Ocean, the Pyrenees and Massif Central mountain ranges reaching down to the French Basque Country in the southwest corner. For centuries, wine traveled up and down the rivers and roads dotted with abbeys and monasteries that tended vineyards. Pilgrims traveled through the region along the Camino Frances route to the holy city of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, which was consecrated in 1189. The region has had its ups and downs, but in the last few decades has become a treasure trove of well-priced high-quality wine. This month we will look at two areas in the region that display the wide diversity of styles and culture within this corner of France. Cahors is an area with a long turbulent history, alternating between times of great prosperity and intense social upheaval in equal measure. With its warm dry weather, influence from both the Mediterranean and Atlantic, and limestone plateaus, the region has been known since Roman times for producing dark, powerful wines from Malbec, known here as Auxerrois or Côt. Its vineyards were first uprooted and set ablaze by the Emperor Domitian in 92 CE, after complaints from growers in the Italian Peninsula that the love for the wine of the region was unfair competition, leading to a ban on viticulture that was not lifted until 276 CE. Unfortunately, the fall of the Roman Empire put a stop to the revitalization, and the region's fortune remained rocky until 630 when Saint Didier, then Bishop of Cahors, began the work of refocusing on winemaking in the region. Their fortunes turned once again when Henry the 2nd married Eleanor of Aquitaine, and the “black wine of Lot” was served at their wedding in 1152, and these dark, powerful wines were once again fashionable. Unfortunately, the region was plunged into chaos with the beginning of the Hundred-Years’ War and the area was ravaged; vines and fruit trees were cut down and wine vats were destroyed. In the 1370s, the Bordelaise imposed a higher tax rate and restrictions on the area, slowly relegating it as a source of Malbec to beef up the lighter Bordeaux wines. After the region was devastated in quick succession by Phylloxera, mildew, and black rot accidently brought over on American vines, farmers replanted with hybrid varieties focused on mass production over quality. Plans to revitalize the region were in the works, but the start of World War 2 stalled those plans, and a frost in 1956 killed off almost all the last remaining vineyards, shrinking down to under 5,000 hectares from their post-phylloxera peak of 80,000. In hindsight, this was a boon for the region, as it gave growers the opportunity to replant with a focus on quality, with mostly Malbec and a smaller portion of Merlot and Tannat replacing the hybrids that had been planted in the 19th century. AOC status was gained in 1971, but as a final blow in the modern age, Argentina became synonymous with Malbec only a few years later with its plush and richer take on Malbec. Despite this, the region has persevered, continuing to create distinct brooding wines, which while not as exuberant as their South American compatriots, carry an earthy edge that creates beautifully long-lived and food friendly-wines. Nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees, with its cool and wet Atlantic influences and a wide array of soils and vines planted along rolling hills, Jurançon has been renowned for its sweet wines for centuries and was one of the first appellations to receive AOC status in the 1930s. While wine has been made in the region since Roman times, this early style was a far cry from what would come later, as most white wine of that time was closer to the amber wines of Georgia than anything we would think of as white wine. While the earliest mention of winemaking can be dated back to 998 near the Abbey of St. Vincent in Lucq-du-Béarn, the region, did not become known for viticulture until the 14th century, when Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng were widely planted in the area after a wave of immigration from Spain and larger France. These thick-skinned, high-sugar and acid grapes thrived in the wet, humid environment, with the thick skins helping protect the grapes from rotting, which allows them to spend more time on the vine, reaching full ripeness while still holding on to their acidity. The sweet wines of this region became so famous that by 1550 Henry the 2nd of Navarre purchased land in the region for the purpose of winemaking and by the 18th century the wines were exported to Northern Europe and the new world, competing with Sauternes as France's best sweet wine. Phylloxera almost brought Gros Manseng to the brink of extinction as the grape didn’t take to grafting onto American rootstock. It was only saved by a few stubborn growers who refused to let it die, reinventing the grape as a dry wine. The region has been undergoing a rejuvenation, with younger winemakers focusing on the powerful dry wines that can be made from its native varieties. Sante! Justin Malesheetz - Wine Buyer, Fillmore 2020 Charles Hours Jurançon Sec “Cuvee Marie” Region / Country of Origin: Jurancon, France About the Winery: Clos Uroulat, an estate dating back to 1775, was purchased by Charles Hours in 1983. Charles runs the estate with his daughter Marie, who is committed to continuing the family legacy while infusing modern creativity into the ancestral art of winemaking. The estate has been farmed sustainably without insecticides or pesticides, and aligns with the region's strong belief in polyculture, with trees lining the vineyards with alternating rows of tilled soil and natural grass in between the vines, alternating every year. About the Winemaking: Gros Manseng and Petit Courbu, a grape typically used for blending in the Southwest, which gives a floral honeyed character while having less acidity than the Mansengs. The grapes are picked by hand over several passes during the harvest season to guarantee ideal ripeness for each style, with the dry wines being picked earlier to keep them from being too full-bodied. These grapes are then immediately put into a pneumatic press, avoiding skin contact as much as possible. The wine is then chilled and moved to stainless steel tanks to ferment for 20 days before being placed in 225-liter barriques, 5-10% of which are new, for 10 months, after which it is filtered and bottled. Tasting Notes: Pale gold in the glass with a nose of pineapple, honeyed fruit, lemon marmalade, elderflower, and wet stone. Laser-like acidity with a lush full body and flavors of citrus finish and a roundness that ends in a dry stony finish. Winemaker: Charles and Marie Hours Price: $26.99 per bottle/ $291.49 per case Suggested Food Pairing: cold cuts, chilled seafood, Mexican chicken salad with jalapenos and carrots, grilled chicken thighs with a citrus glaze 2022 Château du Cèdre Cahors du Cèdre Region / Country of Origin: Cahors, France About the Winery: Located an hour and a half east of Bordeaux, Château du Cèdre was founded in the 1950s by Belgian immigrant Léon Verhaeghe. He was succeeded by his son Charles in the 1970s, who pioneered a return to quality during this time of mass-produced wine, planting vines on the poor stony soils, forcing the vines to struggle and creating smaller, more concentrated berries. He was succeeded in 1988 by his sons Pascal and Jean-Marc, who continued the quest for quality, removing the use of chemicals starting in 1992, fully banning their use by 2000 and gaining organic certification in 2012. The baton has now been passed on to the fourth generation with Pascal's sons Jules and Robin joining the family business. About the Winemaking: 90% Malbec with 5% each of Tannat and Merlot are manually harvested and sorted in the vineyards. Macerated for 30 days with daily punching down of the skin cap at the beginning of fermentation to help extract more flavor compounds, tannins, and colors from the solids of the grape, while also preventing the cap from drying out. Fermentation temperature does not exceed 28° C, and malolactic fermentation is carried out in oak barrels. The wine is aged for 20–22 months in a combination of new, as well as first and second use oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Tasting Notes: Medium purple with a perfumed nose of potpourri, blackberry preserves, blood orange, fresh blueberries, and potting soil. Dry with fine-grained tannins and bright acidity frame flavors of fresh dark berries and black plum, with a long finish reminiscent of violets, and blackberries. Winemaker: Jules Verhaeghe Price: $26.99 per bottle/ $291.49 per case Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled pork chops, suadero, lamb or goat barbacoa, Chile Colorado with nopales
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