Club Corner
December 2025 Wine of the Month Club
DOMAINE GREGOIRE HOPPENOT With Thanksgiving in the rearview mirror and Christmas and Chanukah right around the corner, we’re ending the year with a pair of wines from a newer producer of Cru Beaujolais who has quickly made a name for himself. He received “Discovery of the Year” from Revue du Vin de France in 2020 after only two vintages, and his wines are now sought after throughout Europe and the East Coast. Founded in 2018 in Fleurie, Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot has rapidly emerged as one of the most exciting names in Beaujolais. After years of experience in Burgundy and Beaujolais, Grégoire Hoppenot established his own domaine, now covering around 10 hectares across some of the region’s finest crus, including Fleurie and Morgon. After gaining experience at Domaine Chermette, Maison Trénel, and Cave des Vignerons de Bel-Air, Grégoire struck out on his own and immediately began to gain recognition in the wine world, receiving high scores from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate in his first vintage. His philosophy is centered on organic farming, low intervention, and parcel-by-parcel vinification, creating wines that are deeply expressive of their granite-based terroirs. The result is elegant wines with freshness, energy, and silky tannins that are ready to drink now while maintaining strong aging potential. Situated on the western side of the Beaujolais hills overlooking the Saône River Valley, vineyards in Fleurie are planted on south- and southeast-facing slopes of pink granite soils. At higher elevations, the soil tends to be rougher and sandier, creating light, elegant wines with floral and red-fruited notes. On the lower slopes, richer clay soils produce denser, more structured wines, at times resembling Moulin-à-Vent to the east. Like much of this part of France, winemaking here dates back as far as the 1st century BC, with Benedictine monks maintaining and tending the vineyards from the 7th to the 10th centuries, producing wine largely for themselves and local lords. These sites were expanded by the Lyonnais bourgeoisie in the 15th century, and by the 1700s Beaujolais wines were sought after by merchants in Lyon, with the name Fleurie appearing in written reports. In 1927, a decree precisely defined the wine-growing area of Fleurie, leading to the official creation of the Fleurie AOC in 1936 and the definitive consolidation of the appellation as one of the Beaujolais crus. Santé, Justin Malesheetz, Fillmore Wine Buyer Domaine Hoppenot 2023 Fleurie "Origines" Region / Country of Origin: Fleurie, FR About the winemaking: This vintage’s release is 100% Gamay Noir that was mostly from Clos de la Roilette, with small amounts from the Les Garants and Les Roches lieux dits. Originally part of the Moulin-a-Vent appellation, Clos de Roilette is one of the most renowned sites in Fleurie. Planted at lower elevation on flatter and deeper clay and granite soils, the wine made from this site tends to be richer and more structured than a lot of Fleurie. The grapes were hand harvested and underwent maceration for 10–12 days with whole clusters in 60 hl concrete vats. Temperatures are kept below 30°C and daily pumping over for gentle extraction of color and tannins. The wine is then vinified with ambient yeast, without SO2. Tasting Notes: Ruby in the glass with a nose of graphite, raspberry jellies, potting soil, black cherry, and iron. Medium bodied with firm tannins and bright acidity, this is a more complex, almost Burgundian take on Beaujolais. Mineral, slightly savory on the palate with brooding dark red fruit and cherry liquor flavors swirling around a liquid rock core with a long stony finish. While drinking beautifully now, it will easily age nicely in the next 2–5 years. Winemaker: Grégoire Hoppenot Price: $24.99 btl/$280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Dim sum, chicken mole, seared tuna steak, roast chicken, smoked ham, adobo, chicken teriyaki, grilled sausages. Famille Hoppenot 2023 Beaujolais Blanc Region / Country of Origin: Fleurie, FR About the winemaking: 100% Chardonnay from certified organic 40-year-old vines in the northern part of Beaujolais just south of the Mâcon in the Creches-sur-Saone in clay and limestone soils. Hand harvested and fermented in stainless steel before aging for 6–12 months in a combination of small to medium neutral French oak barrels before bottling. Tasting Notes: Pale gold in the glass with an opulent nose of dried pineapple, apricot, elderflower, orange sherbet, and a faint mineral note. Medium bodied with moderate acidity and a lush mouthfeel in perfect contrast to the dry finish, the wine is bursting at the seams with flavors of orange blossom, baked apple, pineapple, and apricot with a long mineral and floral finish. Winemaker: Grégoire Hoppenot Price: $24.99 btl/$269.89 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Goat cheese with citrus preserves, soft cheese in general, lobster roll, mussels in garlic.
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October 2025 Italian Wine Club
The Molise Conspiracy Whenever I have the bad idea to generalize about Italian wine, I end up paraphrasing Rick describing Captain Renault in Casablanca - Italy is just like any other wine destination, only more so. More grapes, more regions, more history, more passionate arguments conveyed via florid hand gestures. Impossible to pin down, sum up or exhaust, Italian wine presents such a vast and variegated world of its own that we have to narrow our focus just to make it manageable. So in IWC we depict a different region each month. There are 20 in total and during the years I’ve been selecting wine for the club we have visited them all — except one. The good news is we are finally headed there this month. The catch is that it may not actually exist. Materially and administratively, Molise consists of 1,722 square miles of mostly mountains in south-eastern Italy, bordering Abruzzo to the north, Apulia to the east, Lazio to the west, and Campania to the south. It is Italy’s newest region, having been a part of Abruzzo until 1963, and definitely its most ontologically unsteady. In the past decade or so, Il Molise Non Esiste (Molise Doesn’t Exist) has become kind of a cultural phenomenon in Italy, starting as a hashtag before spawning books, songs, videos, theatrical monologs, news articles, slogans (Molisn’t) and merchandise. A YouTube video from 2015 — IL MOLISE NON ESISTE!! – has 1.6 million + views, more than five times the 305,000-strong population of Molise itself. This is progress, according to some residents: “Ten years ago, when I would tell other Italians that I was from Molise, they would give me a blank expression. They literally had never heard of us,” said one local. “Now when I mention Molise to them, they laugh and say Molise doesn’t exist.” I suggest everybody go there and decide for themselves. Though not easy to get to — there is no airport or major highway — I bet it's worth the effort. Made up of picturesque villages, mountains, lakes and the Adriatic coastline, it boasts the oldest continuously operating bell foundry (est. 1339) in the world, which is also Italy’s oldest family business (it supplies the Vatican, which is quite an endorsement, bell-wise); A Rejecelle which, at 34 cm wide, is Italy’s narrowest street; and this Narnia-ish fairy-tale cathedral, which should star in the movies. There’s also wine, though it is appropriately difficult to locate outside Molise. I’ve made occasional efforts over the years and even carried a Tintilia (an autochthonous red grape) once, but nobody’s ever put a white in front of me (though they exist, apparently.) Rather than wait any longer, this month I decided to go with a white selection from next door in Abruzzo which, despite being totally delicious, is frustratingly one-dimensional in terms of its consensus object permanence. The red is actually from Molise though, originating from the village of Monteroduni in the Isernia province (Molise has two provinces: Campobasso and Isneria, the latter is the least populated of Italy’s 110 provinces.) The grape is Montepulciano, one of Italy’s most planted red varietals, most notably next door in Abruzzo, but with a unique richness, density and mineral character born of the mountainous marly soil where it starts. Salut! Alan Hicks Wine Buyer - PlumpJack Noe Valley Terraviva Ekwo Pecorino 2022 Region: Pecorino d'Abruzzo DOC About the Winery: Pietro and his two children, Federica and Francesco, are the forces behind Terraviva, an organic and biodynamic farm nestled near Teramo, Abruzzo. Their vineyards benefit from the cold winds descending from the Gran Sasso mountains and the tempering influence of the Adriatic Sea. Winemaking is overseen by Francesco Bordini and based on minimal intervention, using only estate-grown organic and biodynamic grapes fermented with natural yeasts, and minimal sulfites added at bottling. Each plot is harvested separately, resulting in wines with crisp varietal character, vibrant freshness, and exceptional balance. Situated in the pristine hills of Tortoreto within the Colline Teramane DOCG area, Terraviva enjoys an ideal environment for crafting wines that reflect their terroir, influenced by the Adriatic sea and wind. With a focus on native grapes like Trebbiano, Pecorino, Passerina, and Montepulciano, Terraviva's goal is to express their unique terroir. Spanning 22 hectares in a single block, their vineyards are meticulously tended to maintain the integrity of each plot, ensuring the highest quality in every bottle. About the Winemaking: The harvest is done manually and the fruit is placed in small crates. Separation of the stalks and gentle pressing to respect the integrity of the grapes. The crushed grapes are gently pressed. The resulting must is then decanted into steel vats. Fermentation is spontaneous, with indigenous yeasts, at a controlled temperature of 16° C. The wine ages for 6 months in stainless steel before bottling. 100% Pecorino. Tasting Notes: Focused and linear with mouthwatering salinity, generous texture and well integrated notes of lemon pith, ginger, beeswax and orchard fruit. Winemaker: Francesco Bordini Price per bottle / Price per case $31.99/345.50 Suggested Food Pairing: Light sheep and goat cheeses; fish crudo and ceviche, fried calamari or shrimp or vegetable tempura, Thai noodle dishes. Cavatell w/ Broccoli (see recipe) Campi Valerio Sannazaro 2019 Region: Montenoduri, Molise About the Winery: The Valerio family has cultivated vineyards since 1974, but officially founded Campi Valerio in 2004 on land with centuries-old roots. Once part of a 17th-century estate established by Prince Giovanni Pignatelli, the estate in Monteroduni, Molise now spans five vineyards. Campi Valerio champions the region’s native varieties—Tintilia, Falanghina, and Montepulciano— crafting wines that reflect their unique terroir. With deep respect for tradition and a focus on sustainability, the winery blends old-world practices with modern techniques to produce distinctive, expressive wines. The name "Campi Valerio" honors both the family and their land—a proud symbol of Molise’s rich viticultural heritage. About Winemaking: Grapes grown in the Monteroduni area, which is about 10h and 273m above sea level. Medium textured soil, mainly clay.Stainless steel vinification, alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel entirely malolactic fermentation carried out in barriques. Tasting Notes: Deep ruby red with an alluring bouquet of black currant, black cherry, plum and ripe red fruits. Delicious flavors of black cherry and plum with subtle hints of vanilla and herbs. It is smooth and rounded with firm, yet soft, tannins. It is well-structured with excellent balance and is more complex than its counterpart, the Calidio Rosso. Winemaker: Antonio Valerio Price per bottle / Price per case $22.99/$248.30 Suggested Food Pairing: Winter Vegetables (Brussel Sprouts, Fennel) Ragu alla Bolognese Pizza with Mushrooms or Sausage Grilled or Barbecued Meats Cavatell w/ Broccoli (see recipe) Cavatelli with Broccoli Molise, like the rest of Italy, apparently has great food pretty much everywhere you go. It is the birthplace of Fusilli pasta and cavatelli (pronounced ‘cavetiell’ locally) is also quite popular and this is a classic simple and delicious version w/ broccoli and red pepper flakes. Ingredients 3 tbsp light olive oil (refined, not extra virgin) 1 pound broccoli 4 cloves garlic (minced) 1 pound cavatelli Kosher Salt ½ tsp black pepper 2 tbsp parsley 4 tbsp Parmesan Instructions 1. Using a sharp knife, cut off the broccoli florets where its stem meets the stalk. Then cut the florets into bite-sized pieces and set them aside. 2. Peel the stalk, and cut it into ½-inch slices. Set aside separate from the florets. 3. Cook cavatelli in a large pot of salted water until just under al dente. Reserve a half cup of pasta water before draining and set it aside. 4. Heat the oil in a deep skillet with the oil, over medium heat. 5. Add the broccoli stems to the pan with the oil (leaving the florets behind) and saute until tender with a little bite, then add the florets to the pan with a pinch of salt. Toss together, and cook until the florets are just underdone. 6. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant (about a minute). 7. Add the cavatelli, pepper, parsley, and grated parmesan cheese. Toss to coat, adding the reserved water as needed to loosen the mixture. 8. Cook until the pasta and broccoli are cooked to your liking. Taste for seasoning and add more salt as needed before serving. 9 Serve with more grated cheese.
Learn moreOctober 2025 Champagne Club
Eric Rodez & Charles de Cazanove The other day a fellow wine industry person was telling me about a method champenoise bottling they recently uncorked and very much did not enjoy. “I mean, it’s a natural wine!”, they exclaimed in the end by way of explanation, and it got me thinking: Wherever you land on the whole ‘natural wine’ question, Champagne kind of seems like its natural antagonist. At root, ‘natural wine’ is supposed to signal a commitment to minimal intervention on the winemaker's part - shepherding fruit-to-juice and grape-to-glass with the fewest possible fingerprints. Champagne by contrast demands - from assemblage to liqueur du tirage to remuage to dosage - almost ceaseless tinkering. Fussiness is kinda the whole point; all the effort it takes to make everything effervesce just right really underlines the extent to which the wine can’t just make itself. Which got me wondering: can these warring imperatives ever be reconciled and, if so, what would that look like? If natural wine is the thesis, Champagne the antithesis, what is the synthesis? Maybe Eric Rodez knows. After all, he represents the 7th generation of his family to grow grapes and make Champagne in Ambonnay, the Grand Cru Village for which he served as mayor from 2008-2014. He also worked as a winemaker at the legendary Krug house for a while, and is a 5-time winner of the prestigious ‘Mr. Champagne’ title. But, most importantly for our purposes, he has been making awesome bubbly under his own name for many years and, despite the pedigree and all the accolades (only one of which I made up), he is hardly complacent. Indeed, Rodez has proven quite willing to rethink and change the fundamentals of his craft in search of greater quality and consistency. A disappointing 1984 harvest occasioned trips to other French wine regions to learn new soil maintenance and fertilization practices, which resulted in an increasingly organic and holistic approach to the land. In 2007, the winery made a commitment to total transparency in its practices as it moved towards organic and biodynamic conversions. In 2012, they became the first French farm to receive “high environmental value” certification. While these practices and certifications, quite rare and difficult in the region, are consistent with the values espoused by most ‘natural’ winemakers, Rodez’s approach remains painstaking even for Champagne. While working at Krug, Eric developed a passion for blending grapes and vintages to achieve a better balance. Many, if not most Champagnes are primarily from one year, perhaps with small amounts of a couple of other proximate vintages added, but Rodez relies heavily on reserve wines, interpolating anywhere from five to ten different vintages in the final cuvees. As he says: "It's the creation of something new, like putting musical notes down on paper. And you're never sure where the melody will go. "You try to direct it, but it's like walking up a circular staircase without knowing where it will lead. I find that incredibly exciting." Anyway, for me, the result of all this careful praxis is a near ideal alloy of nature and nurture, gorgeous bottlings that feel incredibly refined but not at all forced. The cuvee we are featuring this month is the flagship Grand Cru blend, a combination of 2 grapes and several vintages. The other selection, despite coming from an equally established and long-standing Champagne house, by necessity contrasts sharply with the Rodez operation. Charles de Cazanove is a vast large endeavor, producing some 3 million bottles annually and boasting a storied history of presentation to kings and heads of state, and partnership with institutions like the Cannes Film Festival. Though it was founded as a family concern, it has been owned by such boldface names Martini &Rossi and Moet and Chanon. Today, it is helmed by another family company and the Tete du Cuvee bottling we have here is a triumph of regional and institutional know-how: one of the best $40 Champagne that I have come across. Sante! The PlumpJack Wine Team Eric Rodez Cuvée de Crayères Grand Cru From: Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims, France About the Winemaker: The Rodez family has been producing their own Champagne for generations, not simply selling their grapes to large houses. Records show that Jean-Baptiste produced in 1757, Marie-Louis in 1786, Louis in 1819, Eugene in 1850, Camille in 1877, Pol in 1905 and Jean in 1931. Each generation has added several small parcels of vineyards, giving them additional material with which to blend. Eric's son Mickaël patiently waited his turn in line and then became the domaine’s vineyard manager, as the 9th generation of the family! His son Pol-Auguste will perhaps soon be the 10th. Assemblage/Vinification: The vineyards are worked in a traditional way, just like Mickaël’s great-grandparents once worked the soils. They have always hesitated to use the word organic, because they are not certified. But as a grower, Eric (and now Mickaël) never uses pesticides, fertilizers or synthetic sprays on his plants. They plow their soils and limit their yields through careful pruning. They have worked biodynamically for several years now, and in 2012 received the Haute Valeur Environnmentale (HVE) certificate given to farmers who achieve organic farming but also biodiversity and water management on their farms The cuvee Crayères is made on average from a dozen different wines from 4 to 5 different vintages, with 20 to 25% of wines vinified in small oak barrels, with 45 to 50% reserve wines helping to bring homogeneity. Tasting Notes: Gold in hue with small golden highlights. The nose reveals floral and mineral notes allowing upon aeration the release of red and white fruits. The palate is fresh and generous, playing with notes of spring berries. Winemaker: Eric & Mickael Rodez Price per bottle / Price per case: $94.99/$1025.90 Suggested Food Pairing: Smoked Trout Canapes, Lobster Roast Chicken Dishes w/ nutty and creamy sauces. Charles de Cazanove Tete de Cuvee Brut NV From: Reims, France About the Winemaker: The Charles de Cazanove brand is one of the oldest in the Champagne region. It was started in 1811, by Charles Gabriel De Cazanove – an unusual deviation for a man from a long line of master glassmakers. From early on in their history, Charles de Cazanove was supplying European politicians and diplomats, as well as many French presidents. In 1983, leading winemaker, Christophe Rapeneau, joined Charles De Cazanove. He modernized the winery to guarantee the authenticity of the wines being crafted. Partnering with local grape growers and partners all over the Champagne region, Charles De Cazanove crafts and produces champagnes made from rich, varied blends - which satisfy and tantalize a wide variety of tastes all over the world. Assemblage/Vinification: 45% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims;. 38% Pinot Meunier from the Marne Valley; 17% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs. 37% Reserve wine 10 g/l dosage. Tasting Notes: The fine bubbles form a large string against a golden background. A fruity nose and delicious, persistent barley sugar and brioche flavors. A very lively wine that is very versatile. Winemaker: Christophe Rapeneau Price per bottle / Price per case: $39.99/$431.90 Suggested Food Pairing: As an aperitif or with shellfish, pork dishes, mild and soft cheeses and rich fish.
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October 2025 Rosé Club
BODEGAS MUGA This month, we’re taking a slightly different approach by spotlighting a single bottle from one exceptional producer. The focus this month will be on the esteemed Spanish winery Bodegas Muga, one of the most well regarded producers in Rioja. While the Muga family had been associated with viticulture in northwestern Rioja dating as far back as the 16th century, it wasn’t until 1932 that Isaac Muga and his wife Aurora Caño, reportedly a great wine taster who was able to identify different plots of land and the villages by taste, opened their own cellar. They met while working at La Rioja Alta S.A. where Isaac’s father worked as cellar master. Originally starting as negociants under the name Claretes Muga (Rioja Clarete was the name of the traditional rosé of the region) in the city of Haro, they bought wine from wineries and vineyards to blend and age with a focus on making rosé and young red wines for the first thirty years of the company. It wasn’t until the 1960s and the move to their current cellars in El Barrio de la Estación that the family shifted their focus from bulk wine to Reservas and Gran Reservas under the watch of the 2nd generation, brothers Manuel and Isacín. The winery has gained world renown while remaining family-owned, with Manuel's children Manu, Juan, Eduardo, and Ana in charge of sales, management, and communication, while their cousins oversee viticulture and winemaking with Jorge focused on reds while Isaac focused on whites and rosés. Being a 100% family business has allowed them to make long- term decisions and make significant investments in old vineyards. Bodegas Muga stands as one of the most traditional wineries in the world, where every stage of winemaking still takes place in oak barrels and vats. The winery employs a dedicated team solely for barrel management, carrying out racking by gravity and inspecting wines for sediment by candlelight. Every barrel and vat is crafted on-site by Muga’s own cooperage team—making it the only winery in Spain with its own master cooper. The master cooper’s son also works at the estate and is currently training to follow in his father’s footsteps. Each year, the Muga family travels to France and other regions to personally select oak trees, which are later fashioned into staves and seasoned for several years at the winery’s facilities. Flor de Muga is a higher-tier, single-vineyard wine that differs from Muga's "regular" wines through its use of premium fruit from older vines, a more meticulous winemaking process, and longer aging. While standard Muga wines are a blend of various plots, Flor de Muga is made from a very specific, strict selection of grapes from high-altitude old vines, resulting in a more complex, elegant, and refined wine. Think Pink! Justin Malesheetz-Wine Buyer 2024 Bodegas Muga Flor de Muga Rosato Region/Country of Origin: El Barrio de la Estación, Rioja, ES About the Vineyards: The family owns and cultivates a 400 hectare holding of vineyards, primarily located in three quality subzones of Rioja — the foothills of the Montes Obarenes, the Sonsierra Riojana, and the Alta Najerilla in Rioja Alta. The grapes used for this wine come from bush vines planted between 1927 and 1947 at high elevation in the Yalde and Alto Najerilla Valleys that are cultivated using sustainable viticulture practices. About the Winemaking: After closely monitoring the ripening process, the optimal harvest time is selected to maintain the grapes’ acidity and fresh fruit character. The grapes (100% Garnacha) are handpicked and transported to the winery in small, refrigerated crates to preserve their full aromatic potential. This rosé is made from free-run juice, the first wine to come out of the tank after fermentation with little or no pressure from the press. Following a very short maceration, fermentation is carried out with 100% ambient yeast in small wooden casks and a variety of large wooden vats with each plot fermenting separately. The wine is then aged on the lees for four months before bottling and release. Tasting Notes: A pale, almost clear salmon in the glass with a bright nose of tangerine, mineral, grapefruit and green strawberry. Medium bodied with crystalline laser like acidity and a tangy, salted grapefruit, strawberry, and red cherry palate with a long mineral and saline finish. Winemaker: Isaac Muga Price: $39.99 btl /$239.94 a 6-pack Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled watermelon and feta salad, arroz con pollo
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Septmeber 2025 Rosé Club
A DARKER SHADE OF PINK While the wines this month share a few commonalities—both are from the southern half of France and are farmed organically—the striking feature we will focus on is color. While rosé can be macerated, which is one of the earliest steps in winemaking, where the grapes are crushed and the juice is left to sit on the skins and solids to extract color, tannins, and flavor compounds, it is typically done for as little as two hours. The juice is then quickly removed from the skins to avoid excessive color or pressed without maceration at all to create lighter-colored wines. This month, we will be examining the other side of rosé: wines with deeper color and different techniques, such as extended maceration and the saignée method. Rasteau is a tiny village in the Southern Rhône that, like much of this part of France, traces its winemaking history back to the Romans, with evidence of vineyards as early as 30 BC. The first documented evidence of winemaking dates to the 11th century. Under the supervision of the church and the bishops of Vaison-la-Romaine, the region's winemaking developed further from the end of the 13th century onward. Historically known for its Vin Doux Naturels, fortified wines made from Grenache, Rasteau has, in recent decades, become known for its dry red wines. Irouléguy is nestled in the heart of French Basque Country beneath the Pyrenees mountains and boasts 2,000 years of winemaking history. During the Middle Ages, monks made wine for pilgrims traveling to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. This tiny appellation is ideal for growing grapes, with its sunny maritime influence tempered by the mountain range, providing warm, dry summers. While the local Tannat and Cabernet Franc produce big, tannic reds, the rosé is similar to those of nearby Navarra, with its fruity flavors and perfumed nose. Think Pink, Justin Malesheetz PlumpJack Fillmore Wine Buyer 2024 Coteaux de Travers ZouZou Cotes du Rhone Rosé Region/Country of Origin: Rasteau, FR About the Winery: Founded in 1920 in the commune of Rasteau in the heart of the Cotes du Rhone, Coteaux de Travers initially sold their grapes and didn’t bottle their own wine until 1976. In 1984, Robert took over the estate from his father and, with a focus on more sustainable farming, began elevating the quality of the wines. Since 2010, the estate has been certified organic and farmed biodynamically. Roberts' children, Marine and Paul, began working on the estate in 2016. With her doctorate in organic chemistry, Marine focuses primarily on winemaking while her brother Paul, with a degree in industrial engineering and two years of experience working in Australia, focuses primarily on work in the vineyard. About the Winemaking: A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Clairette that utilizes the saignée method in which a portion of fermenting wine destined to be made into red wine is bled off after a shorter period and finishes its fermentation separately, creating a darker, bolder rose. The wine is fermented at low temperatures and aged for three months in stainless steel vats. Tasting Notes: A pale rose color in the glass with aromas of fresh raspberry, red cherry, strawberry, and a fresh herbaceous character. On the palate, it shows bright acidity matched with bright red berry flavors and a dry finish. Winemaker: Marine Charavin Price per bottle / Price per case: $15.99 btl/ $172.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Great as an aperitif or with hard cheeses, grilled oysters, chicken in cream sauce with mushrooms. 2024 Domaine Ilarria Irouléguy Rosé Region/Country of Origin: Irouléguy AOC, FR About the Winery: Domaine Ilarria is a multi-generational estate located firmly in French Basque Country, and until 1990 was one of only two independent producers in a region largely run by the local cooperative. Currently run by Peio Espil, who took over the domain in 1990, the vineyards have been farmed without the use of synthetic chemical sprays and have been certified organic since 2008, with a focus on biodiversity in the vineyards and overall health of the soil being his number one concern. About the Winemaking: A blend of 60% Tannat and 40% Cabernet Franc from certified organic vineyards that are hand harvested and destemmed before undergoing a longer maceration for rose (15-18 hours) to extract color and aromatic compounds. The wine is then pressed and undergoes primary and malolactic fermentation with ambient yeast and aged on the lees in stainless steel vats. Tasting Notes: Pale crimson with a nose of mineral earthiness and floral notes; dried rose, blood orange, cranberry, pomegranate, and dried citrus peel. Dry and tart on the palate, with vivid acidity and fresh cranberry and citrus flavors with a long, almost flinty finish. Winemaker: Peio Espil Price per bottle / Price per case: $27.99 btl/ $302.29 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Carpaccio, roasted root vegetables, grilled chicken.
Learn moreAugust Rosé of the Month Club
OFF THE BEATEN PATH While most are familiar with rosé from the Provence region of France, we know rosés are produced all over the world in a range of styles from fuller-bodied, almost light reds, to pale vin gris that drink more like white wines. This month we have a pair of rosés from regions you don’t see too often that show the range of what rosé can be. Vibrant pink and full of flavor, these rosés are sure to please your palate! The first selection is from the Marche region of Italy, which has a long but sometimes overlooked wine history. Starting with the Picenes, an Italic tribe inhabiting the Marche, vines were cultivated as early as the 9th century BCE. Wine growing flourished under Roman rule, and after the fall of Rome, monasteries preserved winemaking traditions. Benedictine and Cistercian monks cultivated vineyards, often linked to local abbeys and hill towns. In the Renaissance era, the Marche remained somewhat rural and isolated compared to Tuscany or Piedmont, so wines were largely consumed locally rather than achieving widespread fame. Unfortunately, Phylloxera devastated Marche’s vineyards in the late 19th century, but replanting occurred slowly, with many focusing on quantity over quality. Today, Marche balances small artisanal estates with cooperatives, producing a mix of traditional and modern styles. Sustainability and organic viticulture are increasingly important. The Marche region is located on the other side of the Apennine Mountains from Tuscany and Umbria, and is lined with sandy beaches along the Adriatic Sea facing Croatia. The combination of rolling hills and a cooling ocean breeze contributes to the structure of the bright but balanced whites the region is known for. The reds from the region are largely Sangiovese, the local Lacrima grape, and Montepulciano. However, this Marche rosé features Grenache, which was planted as part of an expansion in 2003 by the current winery owners, Paolo and Elisetta Capriotti, to complement the winery's traditional local varieties. Our second rosé is coming all the way from Armenia, which, as a wine region, is matched only by Georgia in its history, with the oldest facilities uncovered in the region dating back over 6100 years. It has been known since antiquity for the quality of its goods (like wine, metals, and textiles), as noted by such ancient scholars as Herodotus, Strabo, and Xenophon, who were among the most important writers of the ancient world. Herodotus wrote of Armenian wine flowing down the Euphrates to Babylon; Xenophon described drinking from clay jars in village homes during his march through the region; and Strabo praised the fertile vineyards that shaped its economy. From antiquity to today, Armenia’s wines have been recognized as a mark of quality, deeply rooted in one of the world’s oldest winemaking traditions. Armenia is a mountainous landlocked country nestled in between Georgia, Iran, Azerbaijan, and Turkey. Its high-altitude vineyards, volcanic soils, and abundance of native grapes create a truly distinctive terroir. It has a Continental climate with hot, dry summers and cold winters, as well as large diurnal temperature shifts (warm days, cool nights) that help grapes retain acidity and aromatic complexity. There is abundant sunshine (over 300 days a year in many regions) which ensures full ripening, and the low humidity and wind reduce disease pressure, making organic viticulture highly feasible. Areni Noir, which is the grape variety of the rosé being featured, is the country’s flagship red grape, and it produces elegant, age-worthy wines with cherry, pomegranate, and spice notes. Think Pink! Justin Malesheetz- Wine Buyer Fillmore 2024 Poderi San Lazzaro Elise Marche Rosato Region/Country of Origin: Marche, Italy About the Winery: Poderi San Lazzaro traces back to Lorenzo Capriotti's acquisition of a farm nestled in the hills near Offida. This site, situated 290 meters above sea level, proved to be an ideal spot for growing grapes, located just 9 miles from the shores of the Adriatic Sea and 15 miles from the Apennine mountains. Lorenzo initiated the venture by cultivating vineyards filled with Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Passerina grape varieties. In 2003, Paolo Capriotti and his wife Elisetta assumed control of the farm and winery. The estate, now under organic cultivation, spans 9.5 hectares with ages ranging from 15 to 60 years, complemented by 2 hectares of olive groves and an additional 2 hectares of wooded land. About the Winemaking: 80% Grenache and 20% Sangiovese fermented in temperature cold tanks and aged in stainless steel Tasting Notes: A vivid pale crimson in the glass with notes of ripe red cherry. Dry with balanced acidity and a fuller body, the juicy cherry and strawberry flavors glide through the long finish. Winemaker: Paolo Capriotti Price: $21.99 btl/ $237.50 Suggested food pairing: Bruschetta topped with tomato, garlic and basil, pasta with cheese or cream sauce, egg dishes, leafy salads with fall fruits, salmon dishes, poultry, spicy Asian dishes and soft cheeses like Camembert or Brie 2023 Voskevaz Areni Rosé Region/Country of Origin: Aragatsotn, Armenia About the Winery: Originally founded in 1932 and one of the only wineries allowed to work through Soviet rule, the Voskevaz Winery was has been run by Davit Hovhannisyan since 1997, who has recently been joined by his brothers, artist and architect Gagik Oganesyan and metalworker Armen Oganesyan. They focus on traditional indigenous varietals like Areni Noir, Haghtanak, and Voskehat and are one of the few producers in the region harvesting fruit from ancient bush trained vines ranging from 80 to 300 years of age. About the Winemaking: 100% Areni Noir from 80 to 100 year old vines 1600 meters above sea level cold pressed before fermentation and aging in stainless steel tanks. Tasting Notes: Pale salmon with a nose of cherry blossom, white peach, tangerine and strawberry. Medium bodied and fresh, with bright ruby grapefruit, stone fruit, fresh strawberry, and cherry flavors with a dry finish reminiscent of fresh citrus. Winemaker: David Hovhannisyan Price: $20.99 btl/$226.69 case Suggested Food Pairing: Raw fish anti-pasti, Light pasta dishes with vegetables or shrimp, Chicken Khorovats, Dolmas.
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Red Rogues Q3 2025: Santa Cruz Mountains
Santa Cruz Mountain AVA The Santa Cruz Mountains comprise some of the most important places in California wine history. While Napa and Sonoma are more famous today, this rugged, alpine region, with vineyards planted above the fogline, has long crafted some of the best juice the Golden State can produce. There’s even a plausible alternate timeline where the area takes center stage from the start: Count Agostin Harazthy, often called “the father of California Wine”, planted his original vineyard up there. He broke ground too far north though, and when the cold foggy weather prevented his grapes from fully ripening, he sold the land, relocated to Sonoma and started Buena Vista Winery in the early 1860s. The rest is the history that you can read on the Buena Vista website or visit in their museum. Viticulture in the area dates back to the beginning of the 19th century - the first grapes were planted in Mission Santa Cruz between 1804 and 1807, just east of UC Santa Cruz - but these initial attempts did not yield the best results. The Mission grape, a descendent of the Listan Prieto varietal from La Mancha, now grown mostly in the Canary Islands and South America, turned out harsh, bitter wines in the cool climate. Most of the mountains were not planted to vine until the 1850s, when large swathes of redwood were cut down and farmers moved in, planting vegetables and fruits, with grapes being favored for their ability to adapt to the rugged mountain terrain. The first commercial vineyards were established in 1853 by Scottish immigrant Jon Burns, who named his plot Ben Lomond after an old wine district in Scotland. Along with John and George Jarvis in nearby Scotts Valley, he became a pillar of the county's wine industry, which by 1875 was pumping out 70,000 gallons of wine, mostly derived from the Mission grape, and bottled young so it could be rushed to market. This lack of quality control, along with the global depression triggered by the Panic of 1873, and the spread of Phylloxera throughout Europe and California, led to a global crash of the wine market, forcing many wineries in California and elsewhere to close and uproot vineyards. The mid 1880s saw the rise of multiple figures who would help bring a focus on quality farming and winemaking to the region. Emmet H. Rixford, Professor of Surgery at Stanford University, planted 37 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in Woodside, CA overlooking Redwood City and wrote the seminal guide The Wine Press and the Cellar: A Manual for the Wine-Maker and the Cellar-Man in 1883, detailing techniques used in Europe used to produce high quality wine like Château Margaux. Henry and Nellie Mel were French immigrants who bought one of the properties owned by the Jarvis brothers and planted the state's first Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Dr. John A. Stewart, a Scotsman who came to the area in 1883, replicated the practices of the best French vineyards of the time by blending varietals, something that at this point was a fairly new concept in California. Then there was Paul Masson. Born into a well-heeled winemaking family near Beaune, he moved to California after Phylloxera devastated the French wine industry to work with Charles LeFranc at the Almaden Winery in nearby San Jose. LeFranc himself worked at Almaden and married into the family of founder Etienne Thee and is credited with planting the first cuttings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon in California, brought over from France. Masson married Charles' eldest daughter and became famous for the sparkling “Champagne” made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from vineyards in Saratoga. Wines from the area started to gain international acclaim, winning awards at the World’s Fairs throughout the 1890s and into the early 1900s. Prohibition brought a halt to all of this, with vineyards uprooted (again!) and most wineries were forced to shutter their doors or make sacramental wine. The seeds of the area's history were able to live on thanks largely to the work of a protégée of Paul Masson, the infamous Martin Ray. As the late LA wine writer and educator Roy Brady wrote of Ray, “Martin was a colorful character when California badly needed one. He was a boon to the industry, though many in it would have preferred him to have been a boon elsewhere. He was flamboyant, vocal, outrageous, bombastic, imperious, opinionated, unreasonable.” Indeed, Martin was dogmatic in his quest for quality, keeping yields low and refusing to irrigate in the vineyard; he barrel fermented and aged the wines in oak before bottling unfined and unfiltered; he held bottles back until he believed they were ready for sale. This kind of iconoclasm didn’t endear him to many, but was crucial to achieving his goal of producing world class wine to rival the best of Europe and recall Santa Cruz’s prior fin de siècle apogee. In 1943, having already worked, bought and sold Paul Masson’s vineyard, Ray purchased the first parcel of what would be Mount Eden Vineyards, 2000 ft up above the Santa Clara Valley. There, he planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines from cuttings taken from Masson's La Cresta Vineyard, (which itself had been planted from Burgundian cuttings said to have been taken from Paul Masson’s friend Louis Latour) as well as Cabernet Sauvignon from the La Questa Vineyard originally planted by Emmet Rixford in Woodside. Around the same time period, Dr. William Short bought and revamped a vineyard near the top of Monte Bello Ridge in the 1940s that had originally been planted in 1885. By the late 1940s he had replanted several parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon, which three engineers from the Stanford Research Institute, who had recently purchased the property, used to make the first Ridge “Estate” Cabernet. These efforts set the stage for a renaissance for the region in the 1960’s and 70’s, as new growers and winemakers in the region like Dr. David Bruce and Kathryn Kennedy brought worldwide recognition to the area. In 1976 at the famous ‘Judgement of Paris’, two of the 11 wines chosen to represent California's best were from the Santa Cruz Mountains, and placed 5th (Ridge) and 10th (David Bruce.) Then, at a re-tasting held in 2006, the 1971 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon took the #1 spot. Even with all the acclaim, the AVA remains something of a hermit by California wine standards. Though it covers over 100 miles and 400,000 acres, from Half Moon Bay in the north to the peak of Mount Madonna in the south, only 1,500 of the latter are planted to vine, farmed by just 90 growers and wineries, most of which are 20 or more miles away from each other. (Paso Robles has over 200, by comparison.) Viticulture here continues to be a very high-risk/high reward venture. The challenges, including and on top of the cold weather, are numerous: Irrigation water is very limited or nonexistent; birds (all vineyards must be netted), deer (all vineyards must be fenced) and gophers are ever-present; the ever present risk of fires - the CZU Lightning Complex fire of 2020 destroyed over 86,500 acres of land between Santa Cruz and San Mateo counties; with the skilled labor is hard to find; and disease pressure, particularly downy mildew, powdery mildew and botrytis is ever-present. Historically, grapes ripened in only three out of every ten vintages. The land, being so close to Silicon Valley, is also very expensive, which raises the prices of grapes and winemaking facilities in the region as well. The rewards are (hopefully) self-evident in your glasses this go round, and the result of extremely unique, ‘unicorn’ terroir created by eons of geologic upheaval, that is very much ongoing. The San Andreas Fault in particular, has churned up and exposed marine sediment at the edge of the Pacific Plate which would be otherwise inaccessible. The diverse soils and various micro-climates allow for the growing of Burgundian and Bordeaux varietals alike, and yield elegant and subtle wines, lower in alcohol and with more expressive minerality than the familiar Napa and Sonoma archetypes. These days, both the old guard and the new school are up to awesome things, and we have examples of each here to show why this region - remote and yet so close to home - deserves our respect and attention. Cheers, Justin Malesheetz - Wine Buyer, Fillmore 2021 McHenry Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir “Swan Clone” Region / Country of Origin: Ben Lomond Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Founded in the early 1970s with the goal of planting a vineyard as near as they could get to where UC Davis scientists had discovered an area ideal for growing Pinot Noir, UC Santa Cruz's founding Chancellor, Dean E. McHenry, along with his wife Jane, son Henry, and daughter-in-law Linda planted 4 acres. Linda, a trained viticulturist from UC Davis, tended the vineyard while Henry, a Paleontologist and retired professor at UC Davis, learned winemaking from his colleagues. The vineyard and winery are now run by the third generation with their daughter Annalisa McHenry, a schoolteacher in Oakland, and her partner Brandon Blanchard, along with their cousins Ian McHenry and Henry. About the Vineyard: The former Christmas tree farm sits 5 miles east and 1,800 ft. above the Pacific Ocean in the Santa Cruz Mountains, just north of the small town of Bonny Doon, CA. The dry-farmed vineyard is on a sandy slope, surrounded by redwood forest. About the Winemaking: 100% Pinot Noir from a block planted from cuttings taken from Joseph Swan’s vineyard in the Russian River Valley aged for almost 2 years in 60 gallon French oak. Tasting Notes: Pale dark crimson in the glass with an earthy savory nose swirling with notes of rhubarb, mushroom, wild strawberry, red cherry, and blood orange. The wine is built for the long haul, with a spine of vibrant acidity and grippy tannins and flavors of cherry liquor, cranberry, and long herbaceously floral finish. Decant an hour before drinking. Winemaker: Henry McHenry Price per bottle / Price per case: $40.99 per bottle Suggested Food Pairing: Deep fried turkey, roast chicken, seared tuna 2021 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Zayante Vineyard Syrah Region / Country of Origin: Santa Cruz Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard was founded by Ken Burnap, a Texan with a love of wine who had moved to Southern California and spent his free time traveling around Northern California looking for the best places for Pinot Noir to grow. In 1974, he believed he had found one such place and purchased a vineyard in Santa Cruz County with the goal of making a world-class pinot. For 2 years, he commuted between Orange County and Santa Cruz before pulling up stakes and committing fully to making wine, at first only making Pinot Noir, but eventually expanding to Cabernet Sauvignon and. In 2002, Ken retired and passed the business on to his longtime apprentice and collaborator, Jeff Emery. About the vineyards: Planted at nearly 1200 ft elevation and certified organic, Zayante is a small family owned vineyard that has been producing grapes for over 140 years. For the last 45 years it has been producing Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera and Grenache from own-rooted and dry farmed vines grown on rolling sandstone hills. About the Winemaking: 100% Syrah destemmed and aged for 2 years and 7 months in a combination of new and used French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Tasting Notes: A deep violet in the glass with a rich savory nose evocative of classic Northern Rhone syrah with a nose of candied violets, peppery charcuterie, graphite, fresh potting soil, and eucalyptus. A bright, expressive medium bodied wine on the palate with vibrant acidity and grippy tannins framing waves of dusty black plum and fresh dark berries finishing with a long, richly floral dry finish. Winemaker: Jeff Emery Price per bottle / Price per case: $43.99 per bottle Suggested Food Pairing: Lamb shanks, kabab koobideh 2016 Lexington Wine Co. Gist Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Region / Country of Origin: Santa Cruz Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Originally envisioned by Thomas Fogarty and Michael Martella out of a love for the Bordeaux styled wines made by Ridge and Mount Eden in the 1970s, they knew the land they were working with was too cold to do the varieties justice, but vowed to one day plant a vineyard to the classic Bordeaux grapes. In 2000 Thomas Fogarty Jr. and current winemaker Nathan Kandler accomplished this goal. About the vineyard: Gist Ranch vineyard is located on the Pacific Plate in Santa Cruz County at an elevation of 2,400ft 17 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Planted by the Fogarty family in 2000, the vines are densely planted, decreasing the spacing between vines to make the vines compete for resources which can create smaller more concentrated berries, and utilise organic and sustainable farming practices. Tasting Notes: A deep ruby with aromas of tobacco, truffle, licorice, baking chocolate, and a melange of fresh and dried dark fruit. While the nose prepares you for a dense powerful wine, the palate is surprisingly fresh and lithe, which feels a good deal lighter than its stated 14.5%. Bright acidity with tannins that while softened with age still have a persistence to them are accompanied by flavors of fresh blackberries, black cherry, and plum on a long fresh berry finish. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc. Winemaker: Nathan Kandler Price per bottle / Price per case: $90 per bottle from the winery. Click here and enter the word fogarty to see special pricing Suggested Food Pairing: Steak of any kind, roast duck
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June 2025 Italian Wine Club
LIGURIA Though arguably most associated with France, the Riviera - as concept, aspiration, and actuality - originates in Liguria, in northwestern Italy. The word itself is Italian for “coastline,” and was first applied to the 350 miles of waterfront that traces the narrow corridor between the Maritime Alps, the Apennine mountains and the Ligurian Sea. When 19th century English vacationers strolled over the northern border with France, they extended their remit to encompass the Cotes D’Azur and present-day Monaco (where a variation of the Ligurian dialect, called Monégasque, is still a compulsory subject in local schools). The etymology of ‘Liguria’ itself is much older and more obscure, though the word is likely derived from the ancient Ligures people, who are thought to have once occupied a remarkably large swath of Mediterranean Europe, including parts of Southern France, present-day Catalonia on the Iberian Peninsula, and Piedmont down to Sicily, in Italy. Not sure why this once vast aggregation ended up appellate to Italy’s third-smallest region, but it's appropriate because Liguria has always supported multitudes. Indeed, while I’ve thus far struggled mightily to avoid this particular tourist trap in IWC, I might as well take the L here and concede defeat: Liguria is an actual land of contrasts. One of the most densely populated parts of Italy, the territory is 65% mountains, and 80% of the inhabitants choose to live elsewhere - in the conurbations that limn the coast: Sanremo, Savonia, La Spezia and Genoa, Italy’s busiest seaport and the regional capital. You can pivot your visit around cityscapes and beaches, and/or hike up to and around alpine villages carved out of rock, including the world-famous but still surprisingly inaccessible ring of fishing villages known collectively as Cinque Terre. You will hear a dialect bearing traces of Portuguese, Sardinian, Celtic and Arabic that is barely intelligible to other Italians; you will not see (or taste) many tomatoes - an afterthought in the birthplace of pesto. You will drink beach wine whose breezy maritime resonances belie the backbreaking work required to make them. Like most places in Italy, Liguria’s enological story began in antiquity. It’s not certain whether the Greeks or the Phoenicians introduced the vine to Liguria, but by the time the Romans passed through the region, wine from Liguria was prized both for its quality and its scarcity. This remains true today, as only the much smaller and less populated Vallee D’Aosta produces less vino by volume per annum. Both places require what the Italians call viticulture eroica (heroic viticulture), as vineyards occupy impossibly steep slopes hostile to machinery of any kind, necessitating painstaking by-hand cultivation to pry these tiny yields from the recalcitrant dirt. Our two selections this month pretty much epitomize this ethos. The white comes from Punta Crena, one of my favorite wineries in the world. The Ruffino family behind it have been farming the same vineyards above the tiny beach village of Varigotti for 500 years; the current generation even builds their stone terraces by hand. The grape is Pigato, often confused with Vermentino, though the Ruffinos are dedicated to illustrating the difference. The Ka' Manciné winery responsible for the red is new to me but equally impressive. Maurizio Anfosso and Roberta Repaci, the couple behind the label, are focused on the Rossese di Dolceacqua grape, an exceedingly rare light red varietal grown only in the Riviera (including in France, where it is known as Tibouren). They farm some of the tallest vineyards in the region, in a village called Soldano, which has its own dialect. This Rossesse comes from vines planted in 1872, and it is a savory and mineral-driven revelation. Salut! Alan Hicks Punta Crena Pigato Riviera Ligure di Ponente Vigneto Ca’ da Rena 2023 Region: Liguria, Italy About the Winery: The tiny village of Varigotti comprises just a few rows of houses and restaurants along a pristine Mediterranean beach. Climb up into the hills, and you will discover neatly terraced vineyards on the slopes and in hidden clearings further up on the peaks. The Ruffino family has been living here and tending to these vineyards for more than 500 years. Today four siblings run the estate: Tommaso, the eldest, is the winemaker; Paolo is the salesman; Anna handles logistics; and Nicola helps out in the vineyards and winery. Their cellars are in Varigotti, pop. 500 (though that doubles during the summer months). The vineyards of Punta Crena (which is named for a large promontory jutting into the sea at the edge of the village) are all within 1,200 meters of the water and enjoy sea breezes that help keep the grapes healthy and happy. Ask Paolo if the family follows organic methods in the vineyards and he’ll laugh. We’re not “organic,” he says as if you had asked about some crazy new technology. We just do everything the same way our ancestors have for hundreds of years. They even build their stone terraces by hand, using the method established here three thousand years ago. About the Winemaking: The terraced vineyards are at 100-300 m altitude and within 1.2 km of the sea. Everything is vinified in stainless steel. No machines are used for pumping over; the pressure resulting from the release of gas during fermentation is used instead, and the wines are neither filtered nor fined. The rocks in Varigotti have an unusually high aluminum content; as the rock breaks down, the aluminum is released and washes into the clay soil, where over several years it oxidizes and turns red. This soil is found only in Varigotti and certain areas of Provence (which is just a few hours away by car). Pigato is a genetic variation of Vermentino that developed around the 18th century and was probably named for its pighe—“freckles” in the local dialect, referring to its spotty skin. Today, the two varieties are often confused because they are frequently planted together and cross-pollinate in the vineyards, but the difference is evident when they are kept separate, as at Punta Crena. In order to demonstrate this distinction scientifically, the Ruffinos are planning to provide cuttings of their own vines to a local university for comparative genetic testing. Tasting Notes: Light-medium-bodied with piquant acidity and herbal qualities that counter the mid-weight concentration of orchard fruits, all of which is left lingering on the finish with a subtle saline minerality and almond. Winemaker: Tommaso Ruffino Price per bottle / per case: $31.99/$345.50 Suggested Food Pairing: Perfect on its own, but also makes a great match for pesto pasta, light seafood preparations, and mild cheeses. Pesto pasta w/ potatoes and green beans (see recipe) Ka' Manciné Rossese Di Dolceacqua ‘Bergana’ 2023 Region: Rossese di Dolceaqua DOC About the Winery: Ka' Manciné is a tiny estate in western Liguria, almost on the border with France, in the Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC. Maurizio Anfosso and Roberta Repaci own about 3 hectares of the Rossese variety, in the Beragna and Galeae crus. Maurizio and Roberta's wines are pale in color, medium-bodied, extremely fresh and spicy, with a lovely silky texture and refreshing juiciness. Lighter red wines are some of the best food wines, and these are some of Italy's most attractive examples. Rossese del Dolceacqua is a local grape grown in a very limited area (about 200 acres, for a total production of 200,000 liters) on steep terraces made of schists and marls facing mostly East and South-East at altitudes between 300 and 450 meters above sea level. The very old and low-yielding vines are planted at high density (up to 8000 vines per hectare) in the classic Greek bush system. Maurizio Anfosso and Roberta Repaci, owners of Ka Mancinè, work the beautiful vineyards of Beragna and Galeae manually, with sheer respect for the environment and in harmony with the land. About the Winemaking: 100% Rossese. The Beragna vineyard was planted on its own roots in 1872 on very steep terraces facing southeast on schists and marls, at an altitude of about 400 meters. Harvested the second half of September with ten days' maceration and controlled low-temperature fermentation in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts 7 months aging in stainless steel. No fining, light filtration prior to bottling. 12,000 bottles produced annually. Tasting Notes: Beragna is brimming with cherry and strawberry fruit and hints of dried herbs, spice and pepper. The palate is juicy and refreshing with crisp acidity and mineral notes. Winemaker: Maurizio Anfosso and Roberta Repaci Price per bottle / per case: $21/$226.80 Suggested Food Pairing: Pesto pasta w/ potatoes and green beans (see recipe) spaghetti allo scoglio, braised rabbit with taggiasca olives and pine nuts. Pesto pasta with shrimp and prosciutto Clams w/ oregano and bread crumbs. Pesto Pasta Liguria with Potatoes and Green Beans Doesn’t get more quintessentially Ligurian than this. Basil pesto or pesto Genovese is ubiquitous in Ligurian cuisine, the regional calling card. This pesto pasta Liguria with potatoes and green beans recipe is one of the most traditional ways they eat pesto here, and it is always homemade. Ingredients 320 g corzetti pasta or Trofie or trenette (or trofie or linguine or fettuccine or penne.) 120 g fresh green beans 120 g potatoes You can use red potatoes. I like new potatoes. For the pesto 4 handfuls of fresh basil leaves, preferably young. (In Liguria they use Basilico Genovese D.O.P.) 30 g pine nuts (I like to toast mine.) 50 g Parmesan (In Liguria they use aged Parmesan) 30 g Pecorino from Sardinia 1-2 garlic cloves peeled. (In Liguria they use garlic from Vessalico) coarse sea salt for pasta and to taste extra virgin olive oil as required Instructions Make the pesto If it’s possible, choose medium sized young basil leaves (brighter green). Rinse the leaves under water and dry them with paper towels. Dry fry the pine nuts for 2-3 minutes if you prefer to have them toasted. Using a pestle and mortar Peel the garlic cloves and put them into a mortar with pine nuts. Grind until you have a paste. Then add some basil leaves, a little coarse salt, and 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Keep working with the pestle, while continuing to add more basil leaves and olive oil until the pesto is smooth and consistent. Finally, transfer to a bowl and add the cheeses and stir well. Using a blender or mini food processor You can either put all the ingredients in the blender and pulse a few seconds at a time until you have the right consistency. Don’t keep pulsing for too long at once as the blender will heat up and this can spoil the basil. Alternatively, crush the pine nuts in a pestle and mortar or with a hammer. Blend the olive, oil, basil, salt and garlic until you have the right consistency. Add the cheese and crushed pine nuts after. Mix well with a fork or wooden spoon. Cooking the other ingredients Wash the vegetables, then top and tail the green beans and cut them into 2 or 3 pieces. Peel the potatoes and cut into cubes. Fill a large pot with water and bring to boil, then add the sea salt. Either boil the vegetables along with pasta until all are “al dente”, or cook separately. You can cook the beans and potatoes together and then remove them to a bowl with a slotted spoon. (I did this) Finally, cook the pasta al dente in the vegetable water according to the instructions on the packet. Save a cup of the cooking water and drain the pasta. Mix the pesto with the potatoes and green beans in a frying pan over a low heat for a minute or in a bowl. Then add the drained pasta and a little pasta cooking water. Mix everything together carefully and serve with extra grated cheese and some more toasted pine nuts if required.
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June 2025 Rosé Club
Greek Rosé The Greeks have been making wine for a really long time. They have also been making rosé longer than anyone else. While there is evidence of winemaking in Greece going back as far as 6,500 years, when the first wild grape vines were domesticated in northern Greece, the first documented histories of wine in the region can be traced to the Minoans of the island of Crete and the Mycenaeans of Peloponnese around the 15th century BC. During the Classical period, Greece even developed advanced grape growing techniques that would be familiar to viticulturists today such as lowering yields to produce higher quality wines and studying various types of soils to find the most suitable for growing local varietals. Much of this early wine was rosé of a sort. Field blends of white and red grapes would be crushed by foot and put into large clay containers to ferment. This pink, oxidated, off-dry and slightly tannic wine would then be diluted with water to create a lighter, easier-drinking wine. This wine was so popular that it was considered barbaric to drink undiluted wine. Even while the Greeks and Romans experimented with making separate wines from red and white grapes, this style stayed favored, as those early red ones were often overly tannic and difficult to drink. The technique even spread north in the 6th century BC when the Phocaeans, people from an ancient Ionian Greek city on the western coast of Anatolia (modern day Turkey), migrated to what is now Marseille, in France. They brought grape vines with them and made the same pink blend of red and white grapes there, leaving a thriving example for the Romans to follow when they landed in Provence a few thousand years later. While Greek wine remained popular well into the Byzantine Empire, more recent Hellenistic viticulture has gone through a series of rough patches, including Ottoman rule, phylloxera, and World War 2, with adverse effects on quality, until the early 70s saw the categorization of the wines by designation of origin. This focus on local standards sparked a renaissance of Greek wine, empowering smaller producers and growers over the last few decades to make distinct wines with a deep sense of place. This month we will be focusing on rosé from two such producers that have been producing wine from indigenous Greek varietals. Think Pink! Justin Malesheetz Semeli Mountain Sun Rosé 2024 Region: Korinthia, Greece About the vineyard: Located in the hilly Koutsi region of Nemea, these vineyards are at a higher elevation, between 500-600 meters (between 1,640 and 1,968 feet), on sloping clay soils. The Semeli Estate spans 250 acres, and they also source grapes from other growers within Koutsi, as well as the neighboring areas of Asprokampos, Kastraki and Ancient Nemea. About the winemaking: Made from 100% Agiorgitiko, a thin-skinned varietal indigenous to the Peloponnese region of Nemea, known for its deeply colored reds and an ability to be made into a range of styles, from ageworthy reds to dessert wine made from dried grapes similar to the Recioto wines made in Valpolicella. The grapes are handpicked to ensure quality and chilled to 7-8°C (44.6-46.4°F) to preserve aromatic compounds within the grapes before being destemmed and put into gravity flow tanks, allowing for gentler extraction and protecting the wine from being exposed to too much oxygen at this point in the process. The wine undergoes a 6-hour cold maceration and ferments in stainless steel tanks at 14-16°C (57.2-60.8°F). The wine is then left to mature on the fine lees for three months. Tasting notes: Pink with a rose-y red hue at the rim, the aromas of ripe cherry and strawberry immediately jump out of the glass, followed by notes of nutmeg and dried thyme leaves. Fuller-bodied and dry, with the roundness and richness of red cherry fruit framed by a ginger spiciness and vibrant acidity with a long juicy finish. Winemaker: Yiannis Flerianos Price per bottle/Price per case: $18.99 btl/ $205.09 Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled octopus, younger firm cheeses like Cotija and Feta, fried anchovies, trout rillette Oenops Apla Rosé 2023 Region: Drama, Greece About the winery: Oenops is the brainchild of winemaker Nikos Karatzas, an enologist trained in Bordeaux who was the winemaker at Ktima Pavlidis from 2006 to 2015. As a negociant, Nikos does not own any vineyards himself, instead creating partnerships with vineyards and grape growers that share his philosophy in organic viticulture throughout Greece to create his wines. About the winemaking: 50% Xinomavro, 30% Mavroudi, and 20% Liminiona from sites across Drama and Macedonia. The grapes are chilled and meticulously sorted before being pressed via a pneumatic press with a small amount of whole cluster to provide structure and enhance aromatics. The wines from each plot are then fermented separately in a combination of stainless steel and concrete tanks and aged for 2-3 months on the lees before being bottled. Tasting notes: A pale, light salmon in the glass, with notes of strawberry, tangerine, tomato and bay leaf, and a bit of a tropical guava note. Medium-bodied with a bright, tart acidity. Flavors of tangerine, strawberry, and fresh raspberry linger on the palate with a long, citrusy salinity on the bone-dry finish. Reviews: “Ethereally pale with aromas of blood orange, ginger and rosemary. A blend with impeccable definition, subtle grip and moreishness as it opens. Like all Oenops wines I've tasted, the finish is notably long, and for an introduction to one of the great wineries of Greece this delivers a stack of entertainment. As a well-picked quote from Charlie Chaplin on the label says: 'Simplicity is not a simple thing'.” - Ollie Smith, Decanter Winemaker: Nikos Karatzas Price per bottle/Price per case: $21.99 btl $237.49 Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled salmon, Greek salad, soft goat cheese, as an aperitif
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