Sicily
Sicily is one of the biggest wine success stories of the past twenty years and small wonder. The largest island in the Mediterranean, it boasts approximately 135,000 hectares of vineyards – more than in all of Bordeaux -- a winemaking history some 2500 years old, and an alphabet (from Acitana to Zibibbo) of native varietals thriving in near ideal viticultural conditions. The classic Mediterranean climate of bright sunshine, and reliably moderate rainfall allows for an extended, three month harvest season, beginning in the August heat of Trapani on the west coast and ending on the slopes of Mt. Etna in mid-November. The generally arid conditions reduce the chances of rot and mildew, especially in coastal areas, which makes it easy to go green. (“It’s stupid not to farm organically in Sicily” renowned local enologa Arianna Occhipinti has said. “We have the perfect climate.”) While there are arguably more celebrated (and certainly more expensive) wine regions in Italy, none can match Sicily’s particular alchemy of terroirs, grapes, and intrepid vignerons steeped in local tradition and relatively unencumbered by the fine print of Italy’s wine classification system.
For May, we are featuring two outstanding examples of this oenological bounty, from opposite ends of the island. The white hails from the aforementioned Etna in the northeast: Europe’s most active volcano, one of the planet’s wildest sources for fermented grape juice, and arguably the beating heart of Sicily’s renaissance. Vineyards have existed on its slopes as far back as the 6th century BC when the Greeks first colonized the island; ancient writers and poets composed odes to its wines, and it’s easy to see why. A snow-crowned inferno within site of the Mediterranean, Etna is a breathtaking alloy of extremes, an IRL song of fire and ice, where some of the highest vineyards in the world sit atop diverse soils of hardened lava, ash and sand, the legacy of 500,000 years of literal volcanic churn. The massive diurnal temperature shifts help facilitate berry growth, coloration and complexity in the grape flavors, and Etna wines are perhaps most often identified by their uniquely concentrated mineral essence. The Barone di Villagrande winery is the oldest on the mountain, dating back to 1727; their Etna Bianco is excellent.
The red is made in Marsala, the area on Sicily’s westernmost tip most associated with the fortified wine of the same name. It is 100% Nero D’Avola, which is possibly Sicily’s most important red varietal, definitely its most widely grown. Originally brought here by the Greeks, this Nero is named after the small town of Avola in the southeast, where it was initially planted. After that, Nero D’Avola spread across the rest of the island, as it thrives in hot and dry climatic conditions. The Baglio Dar winery, like most of Sicily’s best, has deep roots in its specific region, and is dedicated to organic and sustainable agricultural practices.
Cin Cin!
Carrie Upson
General Manager/Wine Buyer
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Baglio Diar “Nedda” Nero d’Avola |
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Region / Country of Origin: D.O.C. Sicilia, Italy |
About the winery: Baglio Diar is the project of a family native to Marsala, the Di Girolamo's, which has a historical background in wine production. With a passionate dedication to their work, Biagio and Nicola Di Girolamo have been leading their team in supporting certified organic viticulture for at least 20 years. The meticulous organic production process begins with the careful selection of the position of the vineyards, far from any form of contamination, and continues with the cultivation of the vineyards treated exclusively with copper, sulphur, organic fertilisers and the absence of herbicides. About the winemaking: After the maceration, the grapes undertake the fermentation into stainless steel tanks at 24°C of temperature from 7 to 10 days. Following a soft press, the wine ages first in small oak barrels for 3 months and then in stainless steel tanks for another 3 months. Aging in the bottle: at least 2 months. Tasting Notes: Medium deep ruby colour, Nedda on the nose gives aromas of red fruits like blackberry and dry plum with flavours of vanilla and cloves. On the palate it is medium bodied, with rounded tannins and really good acidity. Moreover, there are notes of black cherry and blueberry with a hint of hazelnut and cedar. |
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Winemaker: Giovanni Angileri |
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Price: $24.99/btl, $294.37/case |
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Suggested Food Pairing: It goes well with spicy game and grilled red meats. It is also perfect to pair with grilled shell fish and stuffed vegetables cooked in the oven. |
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Barone di Villagrande Etna Bianco |
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Region / Country of Origin: Etna, Sicily, Italy |
About the Winery: Barone di Villagrande is the oldest winery in Etna, dating all the way back to 1727. The cellar, still in use, was built in 1850. Today, Marco Nicolosi and his wife Barbara Villagrande run the estate. The winery covers 18 hectares and has been certified organic since 1989. They still harvest everything by hand as it has been for generations. The winery is located on the East side of Etna in Milo which is the only place in Etna in which you can receive the Bianco DOC Superiore certification. The east gets almost 2000 millimeters of rain per year (the most in Sicily). The winds coming off the Ionian sea help dry the grapes out after the rainfall. About the winemaking: Comprised of Carricante 90% and other Indigenous Etna grapes 10% are fermented in stainless steel tanks, then bottled 10 months after harvest. Tasting notes: They say that Sicily is a land of contrasts and so is this wine. The scent gives a glimpse of dry and straight sensations, smoothened by oral and white fruit notes. The first sip is fresh and straight, enveloping at the same time. Pale straw yellow, bright and dense. Persistent floral notes and white fruit harmoniously dance on the palate. Pronounced acidity, elegant drinkability, which hint at its longevity. Over time, it develops great character and balance. It is best consumed immediately, but it is guaranteed to age up to 15 years. |
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Winemaker: Marco Nicolosi |
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Price: $27.99/btl, $302.29/case |
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Suggested Food Pairing: Perfect with shell fish and raw fish, also with stronger flavors, and with semi- aged cheese. |
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