California Mediterranean Varietals

The origins of California wine are rooted in Spanish history. Spanish grapes first arrived in what was then Alta California with the Franciscan padres, including Father Junipero Serra, in the late 1700s. They planted Listán Prieto (aka the Mission grape) throughout Southern and Central California. As Catholics, the Spanish valued grapes and red wine as essential symbols in both their rituals and culture. The padres became known for cultivating drought-tolerant, hedge-pruned vines, and their viticultural techniques and tools were passed down to California’s early grape growers. While the Mission grape fared poorly in the cooler areas around Mission San José and Mission Santa Cruz, it thrived in the warmer regions of the Central Valley and Sonoma. 

By the mid-19th century, nurseries were propagating vines from across Europe. Italian and Spanish varieties flourished in the state’s warm, Mediterranean climate. The Gold Rush brought waves of immigrants eager to slake their thirst with the oceans of wine produced in Santa Clara, Napa, the Central Valley, and Sonoma. Between 1850 and 1890, wine production ramped up across the state as settlers and viticultural pioneers began importing cuttings. Italian immigrants, one of the largest groups to arrive during this period, brought agricultural expertise and found the climate similar to that of their homeland. As a result, wineries sprang up throughout the state in the late 19th century. 

Prohibition, enforced by the Volstead Act beginning in January 1920, forced nearly all of California’s wineries to shut down. Although the 18th Amendment was ratified in 1919, the nationwide ban on alcohol sales took effect the following year. Yet vineyard acreage grew in some regions, as grape concentrate was shipped nationwide and sacramental wine continued to be produced for the Catholic Church. These measures kept the industry alive, though vastly diminished.  By the time Prohibition ended in 1933, the number of wineries in California had plummeted from about 700 to just 40. 

 Following the repeal of Prohibition, the wine industry emphasized quantity. Once again, a sea of cheap, sweet wine flowed from the Central Valley. By 1952, Mission was still the fourth most planted red grape, and Palomino led among white varieties. Wines of many types were generically labeled “Burgundy,” “Chablis,” and the like, and although most California “Chablis” was made of Chardonnay, the “Burgundies” were made from blends of Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Syrah, Petite Verdot, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon; little to no Pinot Noir was included. 

Although the 1970s and 1980s saw a rise in Mediterranean plantings used for quality winemaking, it wasn’t until the 1990s and early 2000s that winemakers and enthusiasts began to rediscover the hidden gems scattered throughout the state. While Spanish varieties are steadily gaining attention, they still make up only a small portion of California’s vineyards compared to classic grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay—so we’re especially excited to share this month’s selections with you.

Cheers!

Justin Malesheetz

Fillmore Wine Buyer