Club Corner
Beer of the Month Club January 2025: Brettanomyces
BRETTANOMYCES To start off the year we will be looking at one of my favorite topics to read about in both wine and beer: yeast! Most wines and beers are fermented with the genus Saccharomyces cerevisiae, also known as baker’s yeast, used for its reliability in gobbling up simple sugars and turning them into alcohol, carbon dioxide, and a wide array of different compounds that give fermented food and drink the flavors we love. A lot of these other strains were (and still are) considered spoilage organisms, though some brewers and winemakers are starting to see the benefits of letting these various yeast coexist as they can add an added layer of complexity to the finished drink when managed properly. Brettanomyces bruxellensis, commonly referred to as Brett, is one of these “wild” yeasts that are often found on the skins of fruit, and have a complicated history with the makers of fermented products. While generally lumped into the spoilage organism category in wine, cider, and dairy due to its tendency to create off-flavors in large quantities, in very small quantities they impart notes of spice and leather and a pleasant earthiness. Brett has had far more success in beer and cider. It was first isolated and identified at the turn of the last century by Danish scientist Niels Hjelte Claussen at what was then Carlsberg Laboratory. Along with a few other breweries around Europe, including Guinness in Ireland and Kalinkin in Russia, he began working on replicating the complexity of aged English porters and noticed the slow growing yeast found in these beers. The use of the yeast exploded and multiple strains have since been cultivated for use in brewing beer across the world. It’s distinctive earthiness and ability to consume certain sugars that Saccharomyces cannot has helped to create a range of complex, ageable ales in a range of styles from sour and fruity lambics and Flanders ales, rich mouth-coating barleywines, and light, dry pale ales. Von Ebert Brewing was founded by father and son Tom M. Cook and Tom S. Cook. It was originally the Portland outpost of Ohio-based Fat Head’s Brewery before being renamed in 2018 in honor of the German-born matriarch of the family. They launched to acclaim with Head Brewer Sean Burke who had previously helped launch The Commons Brewery in the Portland area. After Burke moved on to start his own project, they promoted the former Head Brewer of their original Pearl St. location, Sam Pecoraro, to Head Brewer of the whole operation. Von Ebert has racked up a slew of awards across the country, most recently receiving gold in multiple categories in the 2024 International Beer Awards, World Beer Cup, Best of Craft Beer Awards, and the Oregon Beer Awards. Alesong Brewing and Blending was started in 2015 by brothers Brian and Doug Coombs with Head Blender Matt Van Wyk. Brian, a formally trained chemist from the University of Oregon, left his job working as a R&D chemist for the US Army Tank, Automotive, Research, Development, and Engineering Center in Detroit to work with his former mentor Matt, a former high school science teacher who had caught the brewing bug and trained at the Siebel Institute of Technology, at Oakshire Brewing in Eugene, OR. The two worked closely together before Brian began traveling the world to improve his knowledge of barrel-aging and fermentation. On his return Brian convinced Matt and his brother Doug, who had been working in the wine industry in California, to start their own project. In the 9 years they have been operating they have won over 75 awards, most recently receiving Brewery of the Year last year at the Great American Beer Festival. Cheers! Justin Malesheetz Beer Buyer Von Ebert Known Presence Heritage Ale Portland, OR / USA A clear copper in the glass with vigorous carbonation and a mousse-like foam. Tart and earthy on the nose with notes of grilled pineapple, clove, golden raisin, and dried apricot. Dry and sour on the palate with moderate hop bitterness and a positive oxidative note and flavors of dried apple, quince, and potpourri. Head Brewer: Sam Pecoraro $13.99 per can / $151.09 per case Alesong Touch of Brett Dry-Hopped Farmhouse Ale Eugene, OR / USA Light yellow in the glass with fluffy foam and lots of carbonation. Fruity and spicy on the nose with notes of white pepper, clove, lemon salt, grilled pineapple, and navel orange. Bright and tropical on the palate with notes of tangerine, lemon peel, and grapefruit with moderate bitterness. Head Brewer: Matt Van Wyk $21.99 per can / $237.49 per case
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Beer Of The Month club November 2022
Jester King/Au Baron Farmhouse ales are my favorite beers to pair with a rich meal. Wine like characteristics from the barreling, complexity from the yeast and culture treatments. Refreshing and light in body. Plenty of acid to cut through a fatty gravy or meat. You get the idea. For this month’s selection I choose two 750ml bottles hoping the larger format will make at your table this holiday season. Jester King: This Texas brewery began as a farmhouse brewery committed to mixed culture and spontaneous fermentation. Their beers incorporate well water, local grains, fruits and vegetables, foraged plants, and native yeast and bacteria all in the pursuit of making a beer uniquely tied to a time, place, and people. Their inspiration comes from the classic farmhouse breweries of Europe that embrace principles of subtlety, restraint, patience, full attenuation, and interesting fermentation character. They utilize Texas-grown grains and Texas malts whenever they can, often from farming on their own land. Au Baron: The Brasserie Au Baron is located in Gussignies, France at the bottom of a picturesque valley, nestled on the edge of a small stream. What was at the time a small village bistro became a craft brewery in 1989. Authentic and rustic beers are brewed there among the arcadian smell of the bocage. The famous Cuvée des Jonquilles is brewed there, as well as other inspired beers that will delight the most knowledgeable connoisseurs. The Brasserie Au Baron is also a restaurant with a large terrace by the water. You can taste the products of local artisans and quench your thirst with the beers brewed on site. Happy Feasting! -Sam Jester King - Noble King Location: Austin, Texas Noble King is a medium strength, highly attenuated, unspiced farmhouse ale brewed with an abundance of organic noble hops and fermented with wild yeasts from the Texas Hill Country. Unfiltered, unpasteurized, and 100% naturally conditioned. Beer style: Hoppy Farmhouse Saison 5.9% abv Serve 43–50° F Au Baron/Jester King - Noblesse Oblige Location: Gussignies, France A Biere De Garde (“beer for keeping") is a strong pale ale traditionally brewed in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais region of France. These beers were originally brewed in farmhouses (known as Farmhouse Ales) during the winter and spring, to avoid unpredictable problems with the yeast during the summertime. Brewed at Au Baron’s brewery in France in collaboration with Jester King. A lighter version of Cuvée des Jonquilles with honey and Simcoe, Cascade, and Sorachi Ace hops. Beer style: Bière de Garde 4.7% abv Serve 43–50° F
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