August 2024 Wine of the Month

SPANISH VARIETALS IN CALIFORNIA

     The sun-drenched hills and valleys of California have long been celebrated for their world-class Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But recently, a new wave of grape varieties is gaining momentum: Spanish grapes. From the crisp Albariño to the bold Tempranillo, these Spanish varieties thrive in the region's similar climate and soils, creating exciting and unique wines for adventurous palates. 

     Spain's flagship variety is Tempranillo, a red grape which is especially prominent in Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Tempranillo offers flavors of cherry, plum, tomato, and tobacco, with a structure suitable for aging, revealing leather and vanilla nuances when oaked. Albariño, hailing from Spain's Rías Baixas region, has found a comfortable home in the west coast's mild climate. With notes of nectarine and honeydew suggesting subtle sweetness, this dry, light-bodied wine is best served chilled, making it an ideal companion for a variety of seafood dishes.

     The history of Spanish wine grapes in California is a fascinating tale of cultural exchange and agricultural adaptation. Vineyard planting in the state began with Spanish Franciscan Missionaries who were starting California’s first mission: Mission San Diego de Alcalá in 1769. Just as palm trees were planted so there would be palm fronds for Palm Sunday, vineyards were planted so there would be wine for communion. That first variety, planted by Father Junipero Serra, became so ubiquitous that it became known as the Mission grape (which is believed to be a type of Listán Prieto), which was the preeminent variety until 1880. 

    During prohibition (1920-1933), the wine industry suffered greatly, but after its repeal, there was a resurgence in interest in wine production, including Spanish varieties. From the 1960s onward, California winemakers began exploring and experimenting with a variety of grape types, including those with Spanish origins. This era saw an increasing interest in diversity and quality in wine production.

     Tempranillo has been in California for over a century, as Frederic Bioletti brought it here in 1905, where it received a cool reception not only due to the encroaching era of Prohibition, but also because of the grape's dislike of hot, dry climates. It was much later, during the 1980s, that Californian Tempranillo wine production began to flourish, following the establishment of suitably mountainous sites. Production in this area has more than doubled since 1993. Albarino is a much more recent arrival;  in 1992, vine cuttings thought to be from Adegas Morgadio, near the Minho River that marks Spain's border with Portugal, quietly arrived on these shores and were planted by Brian Babcock in Santa Barbara County.

     Our Tempranillo (from Paso Robles) and our Albarino (from Russian River) for this month’s club are very unique to California, as both of these grapes are grown in very small amounts, as neither accounted for more than 0.28 percent of 2018’s grape crush.

     This recent surge in popularity of Spanish varieties can be attributed to several factors. The Mediterranean climate of coastal California, with its warm days and cool nights, mirrors the growing conditions of Spain's renowned wine regions like Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Additionally, the limestone-rich soils of certain California AVAs offer ideal drainage and minerality, much like those found in Spain. This shared terroir allows these Spanish grapes to express themselves authentically while also adding a touch of California sunshine and personality.

Cheers,

Carrie Upson-GM and Wine Buyer