Club Corner
January 2025: Italian Wine Club Valle d'Aosta
Tiny, alpine, and semi-autonomous, the Valle d’Aosta is Italy's smallest and least populous region. A speck squeezed into the country’s northwestern corner, it is dwarfed on all sides by its more imposing neighbors. Piedmont, 8 times as large, surrounds the valley to the east and south, while its western and northern boundaries are shaded by a pair of Europe's most majestic peaks: Mont Blanc, which marks the border with France, and the Matterhorn, where you can stare into Switzerland. It is, as you might imagine, a stunningly beautiful place, composed of stream and waterfall stippled mountain frescoes, and hosts world-class ski resorts, medieval castles, and the well-preserved ruins of its various historical inhabitants. Though the Celts came first, the most important of these for our purposes are the Romans and the French. The former founded the capital city of Aosta after conquering the territory from the Celtic Salassi tribe in 25 BCE and, though there is limited evidence of winemaking that predates their arrival, it was likely the Romans that established meaningful viticulture in the area. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Valle D’Aosta came under the control of the Frankish Burgundy, and while never officially part of France, it retains a significant Gallic accent to this day, starting with the fact that it is officially bilingual. (In fact, it adopted French as its official language in 1536 - three years before France itself!) Though the Francophone influence runs through the region's culinary and viticultural traditions as well, the Valle D’Aosta ultimately seems like a world unto itself - or several in fact. For while it finishes dead last in most Italo-vino metrics - acreage under vine, volume produced per annum, # of DOCs (there is one to cover the whole region) - you could argue it leads the field in the kind of categories most likely to yield interesting wine. Take topography: starting from 345 meters above sea level at the border with Piedmont in the southeast, the Valley climbs steadily upward towards the west, cresting, wine-wise, with some of Europe's highest commercial vineyards. The historic and steep Rovettaz vineyard, which perches some 700 metres above sea level, is the source of our white wine this month, made from 100% Petit Arvine, by the Grosjean clan, a multi-generational concern that pioneered organic viticulture in the region. It's only a slightly different story lower in the valley, where the bulk of the wine, most of it red, is produced. Prior to phylloxera, the valley had around 3000 hectares under vine, supporting a surfeit of different varietals. Unfortunately the notorious pestilence that swept through Europe in the 1860s felled most of these, wiping out much of the area’s wine heritage. Starting after World War II however, strenuous efforts have been made to recover and extend that tradition. Today there are some 24 varietals growing in the Valle D’Aosta, 13 of them indigenous, planted on only 436 hectares. The region’s unique oenological endowment has been recognized in the form of the Institut Agricole Regional (IAR), an agricultural school, research center, and working farm that studies, preserves, and vinifies native varietals. Our red this month is a casually complex blend wrought from the local grapes Mayolet and Vuillermin (first I’ve heard of either) and some Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc, presumably to make us tourists feel more comfortable. The farming conditions remain quite inhospitable however - grapes are grown on terraces, stair step-style levels cut or built into the sides of the slopes, with pergolas (overhead trellises) to support the vines, all of which must be harvested by hand - and the yields miniscule (there is no demand for bulk wine from the region). Winemaking in the Valle D’Aosta requires an extreme enough level of passion and dedication that it is known ‘heroic viticulture’, a condition official enough to come with environmental prerequisites (altitude of at least 500 metres, inclination over 30%.) The reward, certainly for the drinkers (and hopefully for the vignerons) is some of the most vivid juice you’re likely to encounter, each bottling a synecdoche for the cloudland from which it descends. Salut, Alan Hicks - Wine Buyer, Noe Valley Grosjean Petite Arvine Rovettaz 2023 Region: Valle de Aoste AOC About the Winery: The Grosjean family traces its roots back to the village of Fornet in the high mountain passes of the Valle d’Aosta known as Valgrisenche where they raised cattle. During the summer months, the family cultivated grapes and chestnuts on the slopes at lower altitude, stocking up on wine to supply themselves over the long winters. In 1969, Dauphin Grosjean, the father of the five sons that now collaborate to produce the wines of this estate, was encouraged to present his wine at the local “wine expo”. The exceptional quality of his work was recognized and the entire family became engaged in the expansion of the vineyards and in the production of wine. The estate has now grown to encompass seven hectares of vineyards. The domaine is located in the hamlet of Ollignan on the border of the towns of Quart and Saint Christophe and includes “cru” vineyard sites such as Tzeriat, Rovettaz, Creton and Touren in Quart, plus Tzantè de Bagnere, Merletta and Castello di Pleod in Saint Christophe. After starting out with the traditional Petit Rouge along with some Gamay, Pinot Noir and Petite Arvine, the Grosjeans have planted other local varietals such as Fumin, Cornalin, Premetta and Vuillermin. Sustainable farming techniques have been in place since 1975: only organic fertilizers are applied and no pesticides or herbicides are used. Natural yeasts are utilized for fermentation. Grosjean was the first certified organic winery in the region and, for a decade, the only one. About the Winemaking: Made from 100% Petite Arvine grapes planted in the steep Rovettaz vineyard at 550-700 meters altitude, enjoying a full southern exposition. The wine undergoes a long, spontaneous fermentation on the lees with repeated “batonage” for the first month in stainless-steel tanks, then 30% is racked into barriques, half of them new. Tasting Notes: Bright straw yellow, with intense floral and citrus notes. Grapefruit and fennel on the palate. The fullness of flavor combined with the acidic structure allow it to evolve long and well in the bottle. Winemaker: Herve Grosjean Price per bottle / Price per case $36.99/ $399.50 Suggested Food Pairing: Bok choy, green peas, spinach, spicy Asian fish dishes, roasted pork loin, braised chicken, or hard cheeses. Traditional regional fare such as melted raclette cheese with cornichons, smoked ham terrine, or pan-fried white fish with lemon and capers. Institute Agricole Regional Vin des Chanoines d’Aosta IGT Region: Valle D’Aosta About the Winery: The Institut Agricole Régional (IAR), founded in 1952, is one of the most important agricultural universities in Italy. Currently, the IAR is composed of a working farm, professional technical school, and research center. IAR is responsible for promoting the study and professional training of students within the agriculture sector, focusing primarily on biodynamic vine growing, wine production, as well as biodynamic fruit and dairy research and production. The focus on developing and utilizing applied research allows the university to combine theory and literal “in the field” training, achieving exceptional results within a short period of time. As discoveries are made and practices are refined vintage after vintage, new techniques can be tested across multiple varieties simultaneously yielding immediate, quantifiable results, raising benchmarks across the entire production. The university vineyards and the experimental cellar are a precious Val d’Aosta regional resource serving the formation of future young winemakers. IAR gives these students the tools needed to produce innovative and original quality wines. The results of their efforts are regarded by most experts as the best examples of indigenous high altitude varietals in all of Italy. The Institut tends multiple varieties of indigenous grapevine species that were recovered with much time and energy from old vineyards around the Valle d’Aosta. The LYRA selection includes many unique varietals such as Vuillermin, Cornalin, Fumin, and Petit Arvine to name a few. These wines are textbook versions of each varietal lovingly crafted from vine to bottle. All wines at the Institut are farmed and micro-vinified in lots of 1500-4700 bottles according to Biodynamic principles. The cellar currently in use began operating with the 2005 harvest, replacing the previous “experimental cellar” structure commissioned in 1969 by Canon J. Vaudan for educational, training and winemaking orientation purposes to encourage the production of quality, typical and genuine wines. About the Winemaking: The vineyard is located in a hilly area at 590 m above sea level with southern exposure. The plot, arranged in a rittochino style, has an average slope of 10% and a soil rich in skeleton with a sandy-loam texture. The vines grown in the simple Guyot system with a planting density of 8,000 vines/hectare enjoy a dry and ventilated endoalpine climate that favors their cultivation. The grapes harvested between the second ten days of September and the first ten days of October were destemmed and left to macerate in fermentation tanks at a controlled temperature for 5 to 15 days respectively. The automated punching down and pumping over systems allowed us to optimize the management of the vinification based on the fermentation vigor. The racking was followed by four rackings. The refinement took place in steel tanks for about 8 months and for at least one month in the bottle. Indicative production: 5,900 bottles. Tasting Notes: Red with a fruity and spicy bouquet in which hints of small red fruits, dog rose, pepper and karkadè stand out. Well balanced and harmonious Winemaker: The Student Body Price per bottle / Price per case $29.99/ $323.90 Suggested Food Pairing: Charcuterie plate Any type of red meat preparation Aged savory cheeses Polenta with mushroom sauce or sausage. Grilled steak Fegato alla paesana (country-style calf livers) Pork sausage with eggplant Aged cow’s milk cheese Risotto alla Valdostana Ingredients 1.5 cups (270g) carnaroli or arborio risotto rice 1 white onion, finely chopped ¼ cup (60ml) white wine 5 cups (1200ml) vegetable stock, , low sodium 7 oz (200g) Fontina DOP cheese, cut into small cubes 1/3 cup (30g) Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated 2 tablespoons (30g) butter, unsalted Salt and pepper Instructions: 1. Heat your stock in a saucepan and keep it warm. 2. Melt the butter in a large pan and add the finely chopped onion with a small pinch of salt. Saute the onion on a low heat until soft (about 7-10 minutes). 3. Add the risotto rice and stir until coated in the butter and onions. Let it cook for a minute or so on a medium heat then add the white wine. 4. Let the wine reduce for 1-2 minutes then add 2 ladles of stock. Stir the rice until the stock has been absorbed then continue the process adding 2-3 ladles of stock at a time. 5. When you add the last 2 ladles of stock add the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and the cubed fontina cheese. Stir the risotto until the cheese has fully melted then serve with a sprinkling of freshly cracked black pepper.
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February 2024 Wine of the Month Club
VALLE D’AOSTA Nestled in the northwestern corner of Italy lies a small but precious region. Located above Piemonte and surrounded by the magnificent Gratian Alps in the north, it shares borders with France and Switzerland. Standing tall at 4,810 meters (15,781ft), Monte Bianco, or Mont Blanc, dominates the views from the valleys of this region, making it the highest peak in Europe and the 17th highest in the world. Valle d’Aosta is primarily known for its breathtaking natural beauty and impressive alpine range, attracting countless rock climbers, alpine skiers, and enthusiastic adventurers to explore the area. Throughout the valleys, charming castles can be found, with a total of 72 in the main valley alone. These castles, built between the 2nd and 16th centuries, are among the main attractions for tourists. Surprisingly, the region also offers delightful and distinct wines. It may be hard to believe that vines can grow here, but as we will discover, Valle d’Aosta produces truly fascinating and unique wines. So, lace up your hiking boots and let's embark on a journey to reach the pinnacle of the world of wine. Valle d’Aosta, also known as Vallée d'Aoste, was once covered by a vast glacier. After the glacier receded, it left behind a broad valley carved by the river Dora Baltea, which stretches across the region for 100km (62mi). With a territory spanning 3,268 km2 (1,261 square miles) and a population of 126,000 inhabitants, Valle d’Aosta is one of the smaller and less populous regions of Italy. Aosta serves as both the capital and the only province within the region. The imagination, strength, determination, and artistic expression associated with wine in this region is truly remarkable. It is unexpected that vineyards can thrive at such high altitudes of 4000 feet. The alpine geography, with its towering peaks and freezing temperatures for most of the year, would deter any rational winemaker. However, the Valdostani people have defied the odds by carefully constructing terraced slopes using rocks and bricks to control the challenging terrain shaped by glacial alluvial soil of rock moraine and sand. The vines have played a crucial role, penetrating deep into the ground to extract nutrients and stabilize the soil to prevent downhill erosion. Cultivating the land in these conditions necessitates the abandonment of mechanization and industrial techniques, placing the entire burden on the farmers' physical labor. With inclinations reaching up to 30%, one must possess the skills of both a farmer and a climber. This unique form of viticulture is often referred to as 'Extreme Viticulture' or 'Viticultura Eroica'. Valle d'Aosta accounts for a mere 0.1% of Italy's total wine production, yielding approximately 1 million bottles from a cultivation area of 1290 acres. However, what sets these wines apart is their distinctiveness. We have previously discussed the numerous indigenous grape varieties found throughout Italy, but here we encounter even more exclusivity. These grapes can only be found in this particular region and are not grown elsewhere. Among the white grapes are Prie' Blanc, Malvoisie, and Petit Arvine, while the red grapes include Cornalin, Mayolet, Petit Rouge, Premetta, Vien de Nus, and Fumin. Additionally, there are other significant grape varieties such as Nebbiolo, known as Picotendro in this area, which originates from the nearby Piemonte region. Gamay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Chardonnay are also cultivated here. Alla vostra salute! Carrie Upson- GM and Wine Buyer La Source Petite Arvine 2020 Region / Country of Origin: Aymavilles, Valle d’Aosta, Italy About the vineyard: La Source was founded in 2003 from the experience and passion of young farmers, descendants of Aosta Valley families dedicated to agriculture for generations. The company takes its name from the small spring that was found when they built the cellar; la source in French in fact means source. It is located in Saint Pierre village, 7 km from Aosta city, a few steps from the castle of the same name. Currently the company is owned by the Celi-Cuc family and Stefano Celi is its soul, descendant of a family that has been dedicated to agriculture in the Aosta Valley for generations. About the winemaking: Vinified with great care, the grapes are delicately crushed, followed by static cold decanting. The must ferments in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature of about 18°C to preserve the best characteristics of the wine. The wine is gently stirred on the fine lees for a few months before being filtered and prepared for bottling. Tasting Notes: Color: Straw yellow with green hues. Bouquet: Elegant, fruity and floral aromas. Flavor: Fresh but at the same time intense, persistent and elegant, revealing aromas of white fruit with a hint of exotic fruit, and a good minerality. Enologist: Mario Ronco Price: $23.99 btl/$259 cs Suggested Food Pairing: It goes well as an aperitif or with appetizers, light first courses and cheeses Grosjean Gamay Noir 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Ollignan, Valle d’Aosta, italy About the Winery: The Grosjean family traces its roots back to the village of Fornet in the high mountain passes of the Valle d’Aosta known as Valgrisenche where they raised cattle. During the summer months, the family cultivated grapes and chestnuts on the slopes at lower altitude, stocking up on wine to supply themselves over the long winters. In 1969, Dauphin Grosjean, the father of the five sons that now collaborate to produce the wines of this estate, was encouraged to present his wine at the local “wine expo”. The exceptional quality of his work was recognized and the entire family became engaged in the expansion of the vineyards and in the production of wine. About the winemaking: Fermentation: Natural yeasts are utilized for fermentation; 4-5 days maceration on the skins in stainless steel. Élevage: 8-10 months in stainless-steel. Lees: Wines remain on their fine lees until assemblage prior to bottling. Fining and Filtration: All wines are unfined and lightly filtered. Sulfur: Applied only when necessary in minimal amounts, and only at bottling. Tasting Notes: A Burgundian native, Grosjean’s Valdôtain Gamay comes from the valley’s steep, south-facing upper slopes in the villages of Quart, Saint Christophe and Villeneuve. Grosjean’s biodynamically farmed Gamay example is always well balanced, fruit-forward, lightly tannic and fresh with abundant aromatics of smokiness and strawberry. Enologist: Herve Grosjean Price: $25.99 btl/$280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: An excellent partner to traditional charcuterie, including salami, motzetta and thinly sliced lard, along with traditional Aosta soups
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Italian Wine Club October '22: Valle D'Aosta
Valle D’Aosta Tiny, alpine, and semi-autonomous, the Valle d’Aosta is Italy's smallest and least populous region. A speck squeezed into the country’s northwestern corner, it is dwarfed on all sides by more imposing neighbors. Piedmont, 8 times as large, surrounds the valley to the east and south, while its western and northern boundaries are shaded by a pair of Europe's most majestic peaks: Mont Blanc, which marks the border with France, and the Matterhorn, where you can stare up at Switzerland. It is, as you might imagine, a stunningly beautiful place, composed of stream and waterfall stippled mountain frescoes, and hosts world-class ski resorts, medieval castles, and the well-preserved ruins of its various historical inhabitants. Though the Celts came first, the most important of these for our purposes are the Romans and the French. The latter founded the capital city of Aosta after conquering the territory from the Celtic Salassi tribe in 25 BCE and, though there is limited evidence of winemaking that predates their arrival, it was likely the Romans that established meaningful viticulture in the area. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Valle D’Aosta came under the control of the Frankish Burgundy, and while never officially part of France, it retains a significant Gallic accent to this day, starting with the fact that it is officially bilingual. (In fact, it adopted French as its official language in 1536 - three years before France itself!) Though the Francophone influence runs through the region's culinary and viticultural traditions as well, the Valle D’Aosta ultimately seems like a world unto itself - or several in fact. For while it finishes dead last in most Italo-vino metrics - acreage under vine, volume produced per annum, # of DOCs (there is one to cover the whole region) - you could argue it leads the field in the kind of categories most likely to yield interesting wine. Take topography: starting from 345 meters above sea level at the border with Piedmont in the southeast, the Valley climbs steadily upward towards the west, cresting, wine-wise, with Europe's highest commercial vineyards, Morgex et de la Salle, at 1300 meters. This is the birthplace of our white selection this month, the indigenous varietal Prie Blanc, made from the rare ungrafted continental vines grown on their own rootstock, since even phylloxera struggles to breathe at this altitude. It's only a slightly different story lower in the valley, where the bulk of the wine, most of it red, is produced. Prior to phylloxera, the valley had around 3000 hectares under vine, supporting a surfeit of different varietals. Unfortunately the notorious pestilence that swept through Europe in the 1860s felled most of these, wiping out much of the area’s wine heritage. Starting after World War II however, strenuous efforts have been made to recover and extend that tradition. Today there are some 24 varietals growing in the Valle D’Aosta, 13 of them indigenous, planted on only 436 hectares. The region’s unique oenological endowment has been recognized in the form of the Institut Agricole Regional (IAR), an agricultural school, research center, and working farm that studies, preserves, and vinifies native varietals. The farming conditions remain quite difficult - grapes are grown on terraces, stair step-style levels cut or built into the sides of the slopes, with pergolas (overhead trellises) to support the vines, all of which must be harvested by hand - and the yields miniscule (there is no demand for bulk wine from the region). Winemaking in the Valle D’Aosta requires an extreme enough level of passion and dedication that it has become known as ‘heroic viticulture.’ The reward, certainly for the drinkers (and hopefully for the vignerons) is some of the most vivid juice you’re likely to encounter, each bottling a synecdoche for the cloudland from which it descends. Salut, Alan Hicks - Wine Buyer, Noe Valley Pavese Ermes Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle, Vallée d’Aoste 2020 D.O.P. Region: Blanc et Morgex, Vallee D’Aosta, Italy About the Winery: Ermes Pavese is a grower in the commune of La Ruine just outside of the town of Morgex in the high Alps minutes from the summit of Mont Blanc. Pavese works with the native grape known as Prié Blanc. This is the oldest varietal of the region, it was first mentioned in a document dated 1691. The name probably refers to the wine’s use in Sunday Mass by priests. Starting with barely two hectares of vineyards, situated at about 1200 meters (~4000 feet) a.s.l. Ermes has gradually expanded his holdings in this high altitude zone. To understand the difficulties and the hard labor required in making wine here we need only know that to plant a single vine the farmers have to remove all the rocks that cover the terrain to reach the soil, one by one, by hand. In 2017, nearly the entire crop was lost in a spring freeze; Pavese released 999 bottles labeled Unopercento (1 Percent)—his entire production. At that point, he considered giving up for good but his son Nathan, who studied enology and viticulture, was committed to joining the winery and convinced him to continue. This labor of love produces wines that are the pure expression of this terroir. Nervy, crisp, and racy with minerality that speaks of glacier and moraine rocks. About the Winemaking: Pavese Blanc de Morgex fruit is harvested between the end of September and the beginning of October. The clusters are softly pressed, vinified in stainless steel tanks, and then filtered and bottled. Tasting Notes: In the glass, this wine has a bright clear yellow straw color with golden reflections. The nose and tongue present a clean acidity with a reminder of aromatic herbs such as thyme and chamomile, floral notes of hawthorn, white fruit tones, Williams pear , and yellow plums. The finish is long with accents of white pepper. Winemaker: Ermes Pavese and Nathan Pavese Price per bottle / Price per case $37 $399.60 Suggested Food Pairing: Vegetables like bok choy, green peas, spinach, etc. Spicy Asian fish dishes; roasted pork loin; braised chicken. Traditional regional fare such as melted raclette cheese with cornichons, smoked ham terrine, or pan-fried white fish with lemon and capers. La Cantina di Cuneaz Nadir Les Grosses Rosso-Vallée d’Aoste Region: Valle D’Aosta About the Winemaker: Nadir Cuneaz, a young and enthusiastic wine maker, driven by a passion for his land, puts all his energies into the vineyards owned by his family for over a century. The Cuneaz family has a mere 0.5 hectares near the town of Gressan, in the southern part of the region, which yields a local mix of grape varieties, some of which were planted over 100 years ago. All of the work in the vineyards is done manually. The fruit is usually harvested at the end of October to give plenty of time to reach maturation. Grapes harvested earlier are left to dry for a couple of weeks until they achieve the right sugar concentration and then combined with the remainder of the harvest for vinification. The wine then spends one year in barrels, in the cellar of the family home. About the Winemaking: The only of Cuneaz’s wines not named for a local monster (another cuvee, Badebac, is titled after a mythical beast said to roam the forest above Gressan) “Les Gosses” derives from a French term for “little children” (monsters in their own right, perhaps, and the traditional target of the Badabec)—of which Nadir has three. Coincidentally, this wine contains three local varietals: Vien de Nus (which comprises the majority), Petit Rouge, and the little-seen Vuillermin—the father of Fumin. In contrast to the two other reds he makes, “Les Gosses” comes entirely from south-facing vineyards: “Badeun” in Chambave and “Creta Platta” (a newer acquisition for Nadir), both of which are more sun-blessed and lower on the slope than those sites which supply his other cuvees. The fruit is destemmed and fermented in stainless steel tanks where it ages for one year before bottling unfined and unfiltered. 800 bottles are produced annually. Tasting Notes: Made entirely in steel, this is a classic Vallée d’Aoste lip-smacker, stuffed with juicy black cherries and crunchy plums. With electrifying acidity and a complexity-contributing edge of woodsmoke, this is perhaps the most delicious and complete wine Nadir has ever made. You can serve it with a slight chill, but it will definitely benefit from a 30 minute decant. Winemaker: Nadir Cuneaz Price per bottle / Price per case $32 $345.60 Suggested Food Pairing: Charcuterie plate, any type of red meat preparation; aged savory cheeses; polenta with mushroom sauce. Aosta classics like Valdostana ribs, Risotto alla Valdostana, fondue. Seupa à la Vapelenentse (Valpellinense soup) Full Disclosure: This Is Elio’s recipe from IWC November 2020. I looked around for something else, but nothing seemed as good and this will go well with either wine. Simple, delicious, satisfying fare for the colder months. You can make it vegetarian by substituting vegetable stock for the meat broth. Ingredients (serves 4) 1 medium-sized cabbage, preferably Savoy 2 liters (8 cups) meat broth (brodo) 1/2 medium onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 6 ounces Fontina cheese, sliced thin 1/2 cup Parmigiano Reggiano, grated 4 tablespoons butter 12 slices rustic heavy bread, rye or whole grain, lightly toasted Instructions Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the cabbage in quarters, remove and discard the core. Cook the cabbage quarters in boiling water for about 5 minutes, then drain thoroughly; cut the leaves into 1⁄2 inch long strips. Bring the broth to a boil, add the cabbage and cook until tender but not mushy, about 10 minutes. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a sauté pan and over medium heat, add the onions; cook until translucent, then add the garlic and cook it until it becomes soft (not browned). Combine the onion garlic mixture with the cooked cabbage in broth. Line the bottom of a 3 quart ovenproof, oven to table baking dish, with a layer of bread slices. Remove the cabbage from the broth with a slotted spoon and cover the bread with half of the cabbage. Top the cabbage with half of the Fontina cheese and a good sprinkling of Parmigiano cheese. Repeat with a second layer of cabbage and Fontina. Pour the broth that the cabbage was cooking in over the layers of cabbage, bread, and cheese, adding enough to barely cover the top. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmigiano and drizzle the top with the melted butter. ‘ Bake uncovered in the preheated oven for about one hour or until the zuppa is bubbling and golden crusted. Serve bubbling hot.
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