Club Corner
Italian Wine Club July: Tuscany
TOSCANA Of all the convoluted, impenetrable, byzantine, clarity-hostile, sense-taunting barriers to understanding that the wine world tends to construct, the whole ‘Montepulciano’ pre-fab may be the most gratuitously unhelpful. Years ago, it even almost derailed yours truly’s nascent career. Having gotten a job in a wine shop despite knowing virtually* nothing about the subject, I checked out The Idiots Guide to Wine from the library, got to the part about Montepulciano and, in frustration, nearly threw the book across the room and gave up on the whole thing. But ruining a library book is kind of a karmic catastrophe and besides, I needed the job. So I took a deep breath, kept on reading, and here we are. I think it’s possible that I’ve been carrying a latent bias against Vino Nobile de Montepulciano ever since though, since this is the first time I’ve ever used one in the Italian Wine Club. In my defense, here’s why: Montepulciano is both the name of an ancient hilltop town in Tuscany, and a grape grown all over central Italy, but primarily associated with the Abruzzo region (it is in fact, the 2nd most planted red varietal in Italy full-stop, after Sangiovese.) They DO NOT grow the grape Montepulciano in the town of Montepulciano however; there, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOC (est. 1966) and DOCG (1980) designations require at least 70% of each bottling consist of Prugnolo Gentile, which is the local name for the same Sangiovese clone used in Brunello di Montalcino DOCG wines - where it is called Sangiovese Grosso. The remainder can be made up of the Caniolo Nero grape, other local varietals like Mammolo (even trace amounts of white ones), and the resultant blend must be aged at least two years before release, of which one must be in wooden casks. Got all that? No? I know just how you feel. (I mean how does that make any sense? Given that only 2.5% of the population spoke the standardized Italian language upon unification in 1861, it stands to reason there are different words for the same thing; I just didn’t think I’d have to deal with the same word for different things as well.) Anyway, very generally the most important thing to remember is that on the Sangiovese spectrum, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano tends to fall somewhere between Chianti and Brunello. It can be fuller and more elegant than Chianti, with riper tannins and darker fruit (‘Prunello gentile’ means “gentle plum”), but not quite as opulent or ostentatious as Brunello. And after spending a couple of decades in Brunello’s shadow, Vino Nobile di Montapulciano is having a moment in the sun of late. Local producers are done trying to match their neighbor’s famous boldness, and are instead highlighting the unique qualities of their hometown terroir. While there are a lot of great new labels right now, this month, we are featuring one of the oldest and most consistent: Le Berne, which has been around since the 1960s. The white selection, like many of the most interesting lighter hued wines coming out of Tuscany these days is, in fact, orange, since the grapes see some skin contact. In this case old vine Trebbiano from about 20km outside of Florence spends three months on its skins, and then a further 6 months in local clay amphoras. Prismatic and remarkably textured - salty, savory, aromatic and fruity - its protean streak is nicely structured by a balanced acidity. Salut, Alan Hicks - Wine Buyer, Noe Valley (*I was aware wine came in different colors.) Sammontana Primo Fuoco Bianco Toscana IGT 2021 Region: Tuscany About the Winery: Sammontana dates back to the 12th century and was once property of the acclaimed Medici family. Historically, the hamlet thrived from the production of grains, olive oil, wine and terracotta. Purchased in the 1860s by a Polish family, the winery is still today in their care after 4 generations. Wine has become the predominant business, thanks to 13 hectares of vineyards planted and maintained according to biodynamic farming. Throughout the winemaking process, experimentation is prevalent and while the approach rests largely on the laurels of the land, the current generation is inspired to create clean wines that avoid manipulation, chemicals, filtration, or clarification with a healthy dose of personality. Gently sloping hillsides bordering the east side of the Arno river valley just 20km from Florence in Montelupo Fiorentino are host to Sammontana’s vineyards, planted between 70 and 150 meters above sea level. The soils here are alluvial, full of stones, gravel and pebbles which have historically posed as a nuisance to farmers but Sammontana feels they give character and personality to the wines. About the Winemaking: In the language of local pottery making, “Primo Fuoco” is the initial clay firing that leads to the creation of terracotta, an art that once defined the village of Montelupo near Sammontana. Primo Fuoco Bianco is an acute selection of the estate’s best Trebbiano grapes, fermented naturally and macerated on the skins for about 3 months before being matured for 6 months in a 500-liter terracotta amphora made from local red clay. Only 1,200 bottles are produced. Tasting Notes: Nice burnt amber color in the glass. Nose carries aromas of golden apples and peaches, herbs and honeysuckle. Palate adds orange peel, earl gray tea, saline minerality and creme brulee crust. Winemaker: Daniele & Dario Dzieduszycki Price per bottle / per case $36.99/$399.50 Suggested Food Pairing: Cured meats Halibut or other white fish Lentil Stew Green Curry Mapo Tofu Szechuan Garlic Chicken Stir Fry Le Bèrne Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2021 Region: Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG About the Winery: The name “Le Bèrne,” derived from the Etruscan word for “The Hill,” reflects its timeless connection to the landscape. In 1967, Giuliano Natalini and his father, Egisto Natalini, acquired the sharecropping farm where their family had once lived and worked the land. Setting aside mixed cultivation, they planted their first vineyard, laying the foundation for Le Bèrne’s wine production. Over the decades that followed, Giuliano and his wife, Ada, poured their devotion into the vineyards and refined their winemaking practices, ever focused on elevating the quality of their grapes. This blend of thoughtful viticulture and meticulous craftsmanship lies at the heart of Le Bèrne’s philosophy, affirming their enduring commitment to excellence and the land they cherish. About the Winemaking: 100% Sangiovese from avg. 30 year old vines. White calcareous clay to marine red sand rich in iron. Natural fermentation without added yeasts, daily pumping overs with about 25 days of skin contact Aging in big 25 HL Slavonian oak barrels and partially in French barriques for 24 months. Tasting Notes: Violets, dried cherry & earth. Silky tannins, bright acidity. Persistent, with well integrated oak. Full and round on the palate, with firm tannic finish. Winemaker: Andrea and Laura Natalini Price per bottle / per case $28.99/$313.10 Suggested Food Pairing: Tortelli di patate alla toscana (see recipe) Ragù of wild boar, Pork sausages, salumi, and grilled or roasted lamb roasted wild mushrooms over polenta Tagliatelle with black truffles and olive oil. Tortelli di Patate alla Toscana This traditional Tuscan recipe is typical of the provinces of Firenze and Prato. The tortello is a big ravioli stuffed only with a potato mix without any meat. It is served either with meat sauce (duck ragu is recommended), or with butter, sage and Parmigiano cheese. Ingredients: (serves 6) • 400gr flour 00 (double zero) • 50gr semolina flour • 6 eggs • 1kg potatoes (Russets or Yukon Gold) • 1⁄2 tbsp. butter • 3 tbsp. Parmigiano cheese • 1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg • Salt & pepper Instructions: On a clean surface make a mound with the semolina flour Create a hollow space in the middle of the flour and crack inside 4 eggs Mix the compound until the dough doesn’t get smooth and elastic Let rest for half hour covered by a humid dish towel In a pot filled with cold water add the potatoes and bring to boil until cooked Peel the potatoes and press them through a ricer Add 2 eggs, butter, parmigiano, nutmeg, salt & pepper to the potatoes and mix together Set the filling aside Get the pasta dough and cut it in two pieces Using a rolling pin roll the dough until you get a smooth sheet, thin but strong enough to stretch Roll the other sheet of pasta dough in the same way and set aside being careful that it doesn’t stick together Make small balls, about 1⁄2 inch big, with the potatoes stuffing and set on the pasta sheet on the table at 2 inch distance from each other filling all the sheet Delicately set the other pasta sheet on top of the other one With your fingers press gently around each filling to get rid of any air When all the stuffings are properly pressed and using a ravioli cutting wheel cut a square of dough with the filling in the center separating each tortello Bring a pot of water to boil and cook the tortelli It will not be a long time, as soon they start to float you should drain them and dress with your favorite sauce
Learn more
Italian Wine Club May '24: Montenidoli
MONTENIDOLI Might as well confess at the outset that I am violating one of my internal rules for the club this month. (No, not that one. Don’t worry these wines are both from Italy - no more California juice.) In April, we sampled two wines from La Vecchia Posta in Colli Tortonesi; both great, but I generally try to avoid using the same producer for both bottles in a given installment. However, for a variety of reasons, such is the case once again in May; for the second consecutive month, we are visiting only one winery. The good news? Well, first off, we are in Tuscany just in time for the great weather. As you probably know, Tuscany is a rough triangle covering 9,000 square miles of “relentlessly undulating” (per Jancis Robinson) countryside in central Italy, responsible for Pisa’s lean, the Renaissance (via the city of Florence), arguably the most famous wine region in the country in Chianti, and most of the modern Italian language. Nowhere, apart from Rome itself, and maybe Venice, all-caps ITALY as visibly as this place; its influence on global history and culture, from art to science to literature, has been profound; 50 million tourists visit each year to bask in all the accumulated greatness. And perhaps more importantly: we are going to be avoiding most of those crowds and focusing on one of PlumpJack’s favorite wineries, Montenidoli. If the name rings a bell, it’s because we have carried their wines, and featured them in the club before. I had the red wine (which is new to PlumpJack and the club) picked out from the beginning of this month, and then the white I had selected from another producer became suddenly unavailable. Following an extensive search for another outstanding Tuscan white, I ended up back where I began, at Montenidoli. You’ll soon see why. Montenidoli, which translates to “the mountain of many nests”, occupies some 200 hectares (only 24 of which are under vine) of alpine repose above the town of San Gimignano, with Chianti Classico visible in the distance. Winemaker/owner Elisabetta Fagiuoli arrived here in 1965 from Genoa, along with her companion, Sergio Muratori and nine children, two of whom were her own, the rest special needs kids that Sergio taught and wanted to educate outside the stresses of the city. At the time Monteidoli was all forest - “no road, no water, no electricity”, Elisabetta says - with some long abandoned vineyards. Elisabetta, who hails from a winemaking tradition in Valpolicella (“I know how to make wine. It's just how to make soup. It's something of the family”) immediately began restoring the land, releasing her first vintage in 1971, and garnering immediate acclaim for her (then exclusively) red wines. The soil on the mountaintop where the reds are grown, dark red, rich with iron and other minerals, is the oldest in Tuscany, dating back to the Triassic era some 250 million years ago, the only such dirt planted to vine. Our red this month is 100% Colorino, a frequent blending partner of its more famous cousin Sangiovese, where it plays a role similar to Petit Verdot in Bourdeaux, adding color and tannic grip. Elisabetta didn’t start making white wine until 1984, when she discovered the soil lower down the slopes was calcareous and composed of fossils and sea shells left by the Ligurian Sea 65 million years ago in the Quaternary period. Working with the indigenous local varietal Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Elisabetta and the Montenidoli label have in the years since become the standard by which all other expressions of this grape are measured. We are featuring the Vernaccia Tradizionelle this month, made in the old style, with significant skin contact and aged in the bottle. Today Elisabetta continues to model the spirit of solidarity, craft and care embodied in Montenidoli’s literal meaning. After Sergio passed away in 2012, she started the “Sergio the Patriarch” foundation which continues his work by turning part of the property into a retreat to bring young and old people from different perspectives, cultures and viewpoints together to share ideas and to commune with the earth. And with 50+ vintages now under her belt, the wine continues to be among the most outstanding the Peninsula has to offer. Salut! Alan Hicks - Wine Buyer, Noe Valley Montenidoli Vernaccia Tradizionale 2022 Region: Vernaccia di San Gimignano About the Winemaking: Elisabetta is proud of the fact that her land has never seen the use of pesticides. She has farmed organically as long as she has had the property and can attest that previous to her it had been farmed organically. Given that her property is isolated on a mountainside, she has the added benefit of not having any close neighbors, relieving her of any concern about systemic, non-organic treatments being used in adjacent vineyards. The Vernaccia Tradizional is sourced from estate vineyards around San Gimignano with calcareous soil with marine sediments. Grapes are harvested by hand and the farming is certified organic. Vinification is in stainless steel with five to seven days of skin contact, after which the wine is aged in glass-lined concrete tanks followed by aging in the bottle for about one year. About 2,100 cases produced. Tasting Notes: Straw yellow with golden reflections. Aromas of herbs and almonds, acacia and yellow stone fruit. The palate is round and savory, with notes of citrus, orchard fruit, spice and mineral stippled earth. Long and nutty finish. Chill before serving, but don’t drink ice cold. Winemaker: Elisabetta Fagiuoli Price per bottle / per case $27.99/$302.30 Suggested Food Pairing: Crustaceans, oysters and prawns, sushi, quiche, seasonal vegetarian dishes and vegetable-based flans, tannin-rich foods such as artichokes or asparagus, and iron-rich foods such as liver or spinach. Montenidoli Colorino 2021 Region: Toscana IGT About the Winemaking: Elisabetta says: “Tuscan tradition blends this variety with the grapes of Chianti in order to give colour. At Montenidoli it is fermented by itself. After a long maceration on the skins it matures for 12 months in barrique and is bottled to be ready to drink.” Hand harvested from estate grown, organically grown grapes. Fermented in a concrete vat and aged in bottle before release. Unfined and unfiltered. Tasting Notes: A deep, dark red colour hides a gentle wine, with an inky nose redolent of cedar and earth, a round palate with bright and spicy black brambly fruit, hints of violet, savory accents of licorice and ground coffee and a long, velvety finish. Winemaker: Elisabetta Fagiuoli Price per bottle / per case $33.99/$367.10 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Appetizers, sliced ham and salami. Paglia e Fieno (see recipe on next page) Paglia e Fieno (Straw and Hay Pasta) A wonderfully creamy Summer pasta that is pretty easy to make and will pair well with either of our wines this month. Ingredients 5 ounces thinly-sliced prosciutto (Classic versions of this dish saute the prosciutto along with the rest of the sauce. Here you roast it separately until crispy and then sprinkle over the top like croutons. You can also sub shitake mushrooms to make vegetarian) 5 Tbsp butter, divided 2 Tbsp chopped garlic 1 pound white mushrooms, cleaned and diced or sliced ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp black pepper 1 cup heavy cream 1 pound combined egg and spinach fettuccine or tagliatelle pasta + salt for pasta water (See NOTE below.) 8 ounces frozen peas, thawed (If using fresh peas, I suggest adding them to the pan along with the heavy cream as they will need to cook a bit longer than frozen.) ½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (parmesan) cheese + more for top Instructions Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare the Crispy Prosciutto: Arrange rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. Carefully arrange prosciutto slices or cut pieces in a single layer on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Roast on middle rack until crispy (about 15 to 20 minutes depending on your oven). Transfer to paper towels to drain and cool, then crumble into smaller pieces if roasted whole. Set aside at room temperature, uncovered. (You can make this topping 2 to 3 hours in advance and hold it, uncovered, at room temperature.) Alternatively, make Crispy Shiitake Bacon* (See below for details) Melt 4 Tbsp butter in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Then add garlic and cook until softened and browned a bit, about 2 to 3 minutes. Be careful not to burn the garlic. Add the mushrooms, salt and black pepper and toss well to ensure that the mushrooms are coated with the butter. Then, increase heat to medium/medium-high. Cook until all the liquid that the mushrooms give off has evaporated. Reduce the heat to medium and add heavy cream to the mushrooms. Cook until thickened slightly, about 5 minutes. Then, turn off the heat. Meanwhile, once the water comes to a boil, add salt, then the pasta, stirring frequently. Turn the mushroom sauce back on to medium-low heat and add the peas after the pasta has been cooking for about 5 minutes. Cook the pasta for 2 minutes less than the package directions, or about 2 minutes before you think it is al dente. Be sure to reserve at least 1 cup of the starchy pasta water. Transfer the cooked pasta to the pan and toss well, allowing the pasta to finish cooking in the wonderful flavors of the sauce. Add pasta water for additional moisture, about ½ cup at a time. Once the pasta is al dente, remove the pan from the heat. Then gently stir in the remaining 1 Tbsp butter and the parmesan cheese until well-combined. Sprinkle with a bit more grated cheese. Transfer to a serving platter, top with crispy prosciutto and serve immediately. Buon Appetito! *Thinly slice about 6 ounces shiitake mushroom caps and arrange them in a single layer on a lightly oil-sprayed, parchment-lined sheet pan. Spray the top with a bit of oil as well. Then, roast them in a 400°F oven until very crispy (about 10-12 minutes or longer depending on your oven). Remove them from the oven and immediately sprinkle them with fine salt. Set aside at room temperature, uncovered. (You can make this topping 2 to 3 hours in advance and hold it, uncovered, at room temperature.)
Learn more
December Italian Wine Club 2021: Buone Feste da Montalcino!
Buone Feste da Montalcino! To close the year, we need a wine that goes above and beyond, something that says “it’s a special time and we want to celebrate with a special wine!” It’s like the dress or suit we buy for the best occasion of the year. In terms of Italian wines, there are several special options to choose from. But after tasting a number of wines, my heart brought me back to Tuscany-Brunello di Montalcino specifically. And what is better than a Brunello? A Brunello 2016! The 2016 vintage is heralded as a “Five Star” one, the highest recognition for a vintage from the Brunello Consortium. The 2016 vintage has also received very high scores from the press. Though Brunello di Montalcino is a name well recognized among wine lovers, its entrance into the “world’s best wines” elite is fairly new. The first Brunello di Montalcino to be marketed didn’t happen until 1933, at a wine exposition in Siena where only 4 producers were present. Growth has happened rapidly as the region has gained a reputation for high quality wines. In 1975, there were 25 producers. Today, there are 250. The region’s pioneer was Clemente Biondi, who in the mid-1800s began cultivating a clone selection of Sangiovese that, given its large berries and brownish coloration, became known as Sangiovese Grosso or Sangiovese Brunello. Around 1870, Clemente’s grandson Ferruccio Biondi-Santi perfected the wine. Montalcino has become synonymous with Sangiovese since then. Keep this bottle for your cellar and save it for that special moment. Time is on its side! Elio Longobardi, Italian Wine Specialist PlumpJack Wine & Spirits – Noe Valley Uccelliera, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2016 Region Toscana About the Winery: The Uccelliera estate was once part of neighboring Ciacci Piccolomini until 1986, when winemaker Andrea Cortonesi purchased it from his friends and former employers. After refining his trade as cellar master for Ciacci, Andrea ventured out on his own with the formation of Uccelliera. His first vintage was in 1991 with the production of a mere 500 bottles!The wines have quickly become cult favorites among the cognoscenti. Tucked away in the southeast corner of the appellation in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, the ancient quarries that yielded the alabaster for the Abbey of Sant'Antimo border the vineyards. The soil here is loose and stony, which when coupled with a warm microclimate gives the wines of Uccelliera a rich and ripe expression, vintage after vintage. Andrea Cortonesi is tireless in his approach to winemaking, with all vineyard work done exclusively by hand. About the Winemaking: 100% Sangiovese Grosso from organically farmed vineyards ranging from 150 to 350 meters above sea level. Handpicked harvest, gentle press of the clusters, and elimination of grape stalks. The wine ages for 24 months in a mix of Slavonian and French oak, then spends another 2 years in bottle before release. Tasting Notes: The deep garnet color of the wine in the glass prepares you for the intense fruitiness, where black cherry, raspberry, and currants intermingle with herbal and earthy tones. Lavender, sage, violets, tobacco, and fresh plowed soil are some of the olfactory and sensory notes that emerge through the tasting. Open and decant the bottle for a couple of hours if planning to drink it now. Winemaker Andrea Cortonesi Price per bottle / Price per case $ 89 $ 961 Suggested Food Pairing Peposo dei fornaciai (see recipe); grilled bistecca fiorentina; fresh egg noodles pasta with porcini mushrooms, truffles or wild boar ragù; aged cheeses. Peposo dei fornaciai (Tuscan beef stew) Peposa dei fornaciai is a popular dish during the holidays, and for good reason. This recipe originates from Impruneta, a small village outside Florence. Impruneta is known for its furnaces, where bricks and terracotta vases and jars are made–the famous cotto dell’Impruneta. The hearty Tuscan beef stew was made for the fornaciai, the men who worked at the furnaces, hence the name of the recipe. This dish will perfectly complement your bottle of Brunello. INGREDIENTS (serving 4) 3 lb boneless beef stew meat (i.e. chuck round) 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1 bottle of Tuscan Sangiovese (Chianti, Morellino or others) 10 cloves of garlic, crushed 4 tsp whole black peppercorn Salt Cut the meat in roughly 2 inch pieces Place the meat in a big bowl with garlic, peppercorns, and wine. Cover with foil and let marinate for an hour Get a large pan, add the oil and when it is hot pour in the meat, the marinade, and some salt. Cook covered for 3 hours on low heat or until the meat starts to fall apart Serve with a side of warm cannellini beans drizzled with olio nuovo or your best EVOO and toasted bread Buon appetito! Dear amici of the Italian Wine Club, This December selection will be my last one as the curator of the club. After seven years since we started this project, and over nineteen years working at PlumpJack Wine & Spirits, I’m retiring at the end of this month. It’s been a privilege to work for this company, and even more of a privilege to work for customers like yourselves. Our goal is not just to sell a bottle, but also to share an emotion. I hope you enjoyed the wines and the stories that I brought to your homes every month, and I hope they helped keep our shared passion for il vino italiano alive. I would like to keep in touch with those of you that, through the years, have created a bond that goes beyond the customer-seller relationship. Thanks again for your support, suggestions, and encouragement. You made my job worthwhile. Wishing you and your families a great and healthy Holiday Season and an even better New Year! Grazie di cuore. Elio
Learn more