Club Corner
October '23 Wine of the Month Club
LIOCO WINE CO. We have found your Thanksgiving wines! After tasting the LIOCO line up, we realized we should jump on these wines in October, so that y’all can pick them up BEFORE Thanksgiving, or try them now and buy more for the holidays. This crisp chardonnay will cut through richness of gravy and mashed potatoes and compliment all the herbs on your plate, while the red is light bodied, chillable, fruity and is the perfect blend to pair with your turkey, stuffing, and cranberry sauce. LIOCO was conceived in the alley behind Spago Beverly Hills by wine director Kevin O’Connor and wine salesman Matt Licklider. The two colleagues, critical of the heavy-handed wines of the day, wondered if it were possible to make some local wines that favored nuance over sheer power. In 2005, relying on nothing more than their palates and their rolodexes, the two embarked on a winemaking odyssey. Europe was their inspiration, as were the more restrained California wines of the 1980’s. Their winemaking philosophy is to “trust in the raw material and get out of the way. If the fruit is well-grown and comes from a compelling site, there is no way to improve upon it. Our job is simply to usher it through the process of fermentation and into the bottle with as little intervention as possible.” This has been their approach since Day 1, despite the real incentives to conform to a more commercial style. The focus is on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Carignan from sites with older vines, interesting soils, and heritage clones. Sometimes the hunt for Pinot Noir uncovers other treasures like a coastal Syrah vineyard or a rare, mid-century planting of Valdigue. Today the winery is owned and operated by the Licklider family. Husband/wife duo Matt and Sara Licklider and their small team produce the wines at a state of the art winemaking co-operative in Santa Rosa. All of the fruit is sourced from exceptional vineyards spanning 400 miles and five counties (Sonoma, Mendocino, Santa Cruz, Santa Barbara, and Yolo). In 2018, they brought winemaker Drew Huffine into their family. While earning his PhD in modern poetry in Mississippi, he met winemaker Eric Kent during an in-store tasting at the shop Huffine was working at, and Kent offhandedly suggested that he defer for a year and come work with him as a harvest intern. After thinking about it for a day or two, he called Kent, asking him, "Were you serious, can I come work for you?" He had no memory of the conversation, but nonetheless, Huffine wiggled his way into a job. From there he worked with anyone he thought could teach him about vineyard to bottle winemaking, which included stints at Auteur, DuMol, Donom, Kosta Browne, and Copain, which really changed his whole approach to wine and winemaking. Cheers, PlumpJack Wine Team LIOCO Sonoma County “SoCo” Chardonnay Region / Country of Origin: Sonoma, California About the Vineyards: This wine is composed of several vineyards, all in the cooler, more western regions of Sonoma County. While each site is distinct, they share a common commitment to sustainable horticulture and strident farming. Our intention for this wine is to express the unique character of this region. Warm days and cool nights, tempered by consistent oceanic fog, yield nuanced Chardonnays balanced by brisk acidity. About the winemaking: Five sites were harvested in the first 2 weeks of September; fruit was hand-harvested, and foot-tread before being pressed. A majority of the juice was fermented in stainless steel tanks, and the balance in neutral oak puncheons, where they remained (with no battonage) for 6 months before racking. A gentle cross-flow filtration was performed prior to bottling. Tasting Notes: The early-picked fruit had brilliant chemistry, as drought vintage fruit often does, and deeply concentrated flavors. Since 2019 they have been declassifying barrels of Chardonnay from top tier LIOCO cuvees into this wine. SoCo will always be defined by its mouth watering, steely freshness ala the Louis Michel Chablis that inspired it, but the barrel fermented additions have added complexity and mouth feel without any trace of oakiness. Aromas of tangerine oil, fresh fennel frond, shale are followed by lemon custard, river stone, and fresh thyme on the palate. Winemaker: Drew Huffine Price: $27.99 btl/$302.29 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Roasted Turkey, Creamy mashed potatoes, cauliflower gratin, chicken paillard, fried fish sandwich. LIOCO Indica Red Table Wine Region / Country of Origin: Mendocino County, California About the Vineyards: Composed from three historic Mendocino County ranches—two on the valley floor, one at high elevation—all with heritage dry-farmed, head-trained Carignan + Valdiguie vines. Soils range from red clay (valley) to hard scrabble rocky (mountain). These rapidly vanishing California grapes harken back to the Golden State's earliest winemaking efforts. About the winemaking: Vintage 2022 marks a return to original form for Indica Red Table Wine—a LIOCO stalwart since 2006. The wildfires in 2020 necessitated a shift in fruit sourcing, and the extreme drought / massive winter frost of 2021 left them with too little fruit to bottle an Indica. In the winter of 2022, they expanded their grape contract at Bartolomei Vineyard and secured the future of this wine. The 2022 is a blend from three historic Mendocino ranches—some dry-farmed, old vine Carignan from Bartolomei (Talmage) and McCutchen (Pine Mountain), plus a healthy dollop of rare Valdiguie from Lolonis (Redwood Valley). The exceptional fruit quality and small clusters characteristic of the vintage enticed us to do 75% whole cluster, with two tanks going through carbonic maceration. All fruit was hand-harvested in mid-Sept./early Oct. Fermented in a mix of open-top tanks (whole cluster), closed tanks (carbonic), and T-bins (submerged cap). Once pressed, all lots were aged separately in a mixture of barrels and stainless steel for 10-mos. Bottled unfined/unfiltered. Tasting Notes: The juice was pressed off the tannic skins early and "went to barrel sweet" to highlight the crunchy freshness of this wine. The result is chillable, medium weight red that reminds us of Cote de Brouilly, but is unabashedly Californian. With aromas of black plum, mulberry, wild sage, the palate shows flavors of bing cherry, violet, and rosemary. Winemaker: Drew Huffine Price: $23.99 btl/$259.10 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Turkey with cranberry sauce, sausage stuffing, pulled pork sandwich, street tacos.
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November Wines of the Month 2021
Is it November already? Hard to believe another holiday season is already (almost) upon us, but we are especially excited for this one. After 2020’s necessarily smaller and more low-key gatherings, we are very thankful for the opportunity to share a meal and raise a glass with loved ones in more regular circumstances. And Thanksgiving is truly a wine lover’s time to shine; though some of the traditional elements of the meal are quite specific (turkey, stuffing and cranberry sauce aren’t on a lot of menus the rest of the year), there are so many different possible preparations that the pairing options are almost endless. It is difficult make a bad wine choice for Thanksgiving, and a thoughtful one is a relatively easy and stress free way to contribute to the celebration. Our selections this month - a Frappato from Sicily and a Burgundnian Aligoté - are two undersung but intriguing varietals that, in the hands of two expert winemakers, complement a wide array of plates, fish, fowl or vegetable, and are vital and appealing on their own as well. They will make great additions to any holiday table, so feel free to save them for December if you’d like. Happy Thanksgiving and Bon Appetit! Sicily is one of the one of the biggest wine success stories of the past twenty years and small wonder. The largest island in the Medditeranean, it boasts approximately 135,000 hectares of vineyards – more than in all of Bordeaux - a winemaking tradition some 2500 years old, and an alphabet (from Acitana to Zibibbo) of native varietals thriving in near ideal viticultural conditons. The classic Mediterranean climate, lots of consistently bright sunshine, and reliably moderate rainfall allows for a long three month harvest season, beginning in the August heat of Trapani on the west coast and ending on the snow-crowned slopes of Mt. Etna in mid-November. And while Etna’s active volcanic drama tends to get the most attention, some of the island’s best reds come from the mostly flat, arid and less picturesque Vittoria, in the Southeast. Ceruosola di Vittoria, the island’s only DOCG status wine is produced here, from two indigenious grapes, Nero D’Avola and Frappato, both of which make for distinguished mono-varietal bottlings on their own. While Nero D”Avola is full, dark and tannic, Frappato is lithe, fresh and, due to its vibrant acidity and ripe red fruit, very versatile with food. Valle Dell’ Acante is one of the best producers in the area - it’s hard to find a better Frappato - and the classically peppery and aromatic 2019 bottling is characteristically excellent. Like Frappato, Aligoté has sometimes been an afterthought in its native land. A centuries-old hybrid of Pinot Noir and the very rare Gouais Blanc, it is the other white grape of Burgundy, forever failing to be Chardonnay. Prior to the late 19th century phylloxera plague that killed most of Burgundy’s grape vines, Aligoté was widely planted and enjoyed; following replanting and the introduction of American rootstock, it was relegated to the least prized soils in favor of the less high maitenance (and more profitable) Chardonnay. When Burgundy’s appellation system was set up in 1936, Aligoté was considered so unable to express the characteristics of a particular place that every bottle was slapped with the generic label “Bourgogne Aligoté.” Today Aligoté still only accounts for 6% of Burgundian wine production, but many of the best local vignerons are showing that if you treat Aligoté right - give it some hillside exposure on limestone soils - it will yield delicious wine that pairs wonderfully with a variety of dishes. There are two areas of Burgundy responsible for the best Aligoté: Bouzeron, a village in Cote Chalonaisse, just south of the famous Cote D’Or, which in 1998 became the only AOC devoted solely to the grape; and the area surrounding the prestigious Morey St. Denis appellation in the Cotes de Nuits. Our selection this month comes from Domaine Castagnier, in the latter region, from vines planted in 1925 on rocky limestone soils. It situates Aligoté’s signature minerally acidity within a remarkably deep and supple texture that will harmonize beautifully with whatever Thanksgiving tradition it accompanies. We are very thankful for all of our club members, and we hope you enjoy your holiday, The PlumpJack Wine Team Valle Dell’ Acante il Frappato di Vittoria 2019 Region / Country of Origin: Vittoria DOC, Sicily, Italy About the winemaker: Founded by Giuseppe Jacono in 1800s, Valle dell’ Acate is in the south east corner of Sicily in the province of Ragusa. Since the founding of the estate, six generations of this family of vignerons have toiled in the Dirillo valley. In 2000, Gaetana Jacono got her degree in pharmacy, but she abandoned her career to join the family winery. Gaetana is unquestionably a force: an outspoken advocate for her native vines. In 2013 she was elected the brand ambassador for the wines of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, a role she takes very seriously. Valle dell’ Acate is world-renowned for making high quality Sicilian wines of incredible elegance and a very special sense of place. Today the estate has about 80 hectares of organically cultivated vineyards planted to mostly Frappato and Nero d’Avola, with also Grillo and Chardonnay. The vineyards are between Acate, Comiso and Vittoria in the historical “Classico” district for Cerasuolo, which was one of the first Sicilian red wines to earn DOC status in 1973. About the Winemaking: From 10-20 year old vines planted in black soils with white stones. Spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts happens in stainless steel. Maceration lasts about a week, and aging in steel lasts 6 months. 1995 was the first year of production. 6000 cases are produced on average per year. Certified organic from the 2018 vintage. Tasting Notes: Bright translucent ruby with purple hints. Pretty floral aromas of raspberry, red cherry, rose, fresh herbs. Explosive juicy red berry fruit. The delicate red fruit flavors continue on the palate with lovely texture and depth to its impressions of red fruit. All this aroma is supported by a zesty acidity. Winemaker: Gaetana Jacobo Price: $25 bottle/$270 case Suggested Food Pairing: Thanksgiving fare of course but Frappato also goes well with fresh and aged cheeses, salamis and fish dishes with tomatoes or tomato sauce. Domaine Castagnier Bourgogne Aligoté 2018 Region / Country of Origin: Burgundy, France About the Winemaker: Jérôme Castagnier has been at the helm of Domaine Castagnier since his father’s retirement in 2005; he represents the fifth generation to run the family winery. Today, he owns four hectares total, and exceptionally, he makes four grand cru from two hectares in some of the most sought-after vineyards. Castagnier owns vines in Clos de la Roche, Clos Saint Denis, Charmes-Chambertin and 27 rows together in the Clos de Vougeot, just across the road from the Echezeaux of Romanee-Conti. About the winemaking: Biodynamic practices employed in the vineyard, but no certification. Ambient yeast is allowed during fermentation with juice macerating in stainless steel tanks before aging 14-15 months with 2/3 in stainless steel and 1/3 in neutral barrels. No fining or filtration prior to bottling. Aging The wine receives 14-15 months in a combination of stainless steel and older barrels. Tasting Notes: Pale lemon color with a floral, citrus and mineral nose. The palate foregrounds ripe citrus with a round mouthfeel and a long, chalky finish. Winemaker: JérômeCastagnier Price: $25 bottle/ $270 case Suggested Food Pairing: Turkey and poultry dishes, Mashed potatoes and stuffing Roast vegetables Fish dishes with cream sauce TWO REDS: Normally those of you who get 2 reds get 2 of the same, but this month we found another hidden gem that was only available in a small quantity that we wanted to share with you as well. The second red also falls into theme of being a truly unique and food friendly wine for the holiday season. Like Frappato, Mollard is a food friendly grape that thrives in its native habitat. A thin-skinned, late-ripening red varietal perfectly suited to alpine terroir, it was once widely planted in the tiny Hautes-Alpes region of Southeastern France, home of the highest vineyards in the French Alps. Phylloxera and a focus on more commercial grapes reduced plantings from 300 hectares in 1958 to less than 30 today. Mollard might be completely extinct without the efforts of Haut-Alpes native and 2nd generation vigneron Marc Allemand and his family. Starting in the early 1990s Marc embarked on a joint project with the French Vine Institute to study and preserve the grape (which Allemand calls “my second wife”), culminating in Mollard’s official inclusion in the registry of French wine grapes in 2005. Domaine Allemand now possesses the only rootstock nursery vineyard from which all from which all new certified plants of Mollard originate. It seems safe to say that Marc’s old vine, single varietal bottling is definitive–even if it is the only Mollard any of us have ever had. We can confirm it is delicious, lush and silky, with great aromatic complexity and a gently spicy palate of red fruit and mineral earth. You also might be seeing more of it in the years to come; there are rumors of an old vine Mollard vineyard somewhere in Sonoma, as well as some more recent local plantings. Domaine Allemand Le Théüsien Rouge 2020 Region / Country of Origin: Hauts-Alpes, France About the Winemaker: Following a military posting in Champagne, Louis Allemand settled in the Hautes-Alps region in 1954 with the intention of becoming a vintner. He was the very first in the area to devote himself entirely to viticulture and focus on the quality of his grapes and his wines. In 1964, his wife Marcelle opened the region’s first tasting cellar. Their son Marc took over in 1984, and became the first local winemaker to obtain the Vin De Pays label for his wine. His daughter Laetitia spent 15 years working as a journalist in Paris before returning to succeed her father at the helm of the estate where she spent her entire childhood. About the winemaking: Vineyards around 2,000 feet high. Very stony limestone clay soil and optimum sunshine exposure. Organically farmed from 50+ years old vines. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks then aging in used barrels. 100% Mollard. Tasting Notes: Deep and intense, magnificently brilliant and limpid with violet gleams.Magnificent structure, with silky tannins. Superb balance and architecture with aromas of cranberry and grenadine, and a slightly smoky, liquorice finish. Winemaker: Marc & Laetitia Allemand Price: $24 btl/ $259.20 case Suggested Food Pairing: Thanksgiving hams, sausage or mature cheeses from the Queyras region, Stuffing with mushrooms
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