Club Corner
Rose of the Month September 2021
When thinking of wine producing countries, Austria is probably not the first to come to mind. However, Austria’s diverse soils and climates provide perfect conditions to produce some of the world’s finest wines. Austria has been producing wine for centuries with first findings of winemaking dating back to the Celts and Romans in 700 BC. Today, it is divided into 3 primary growing regions: Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) (28,145 ha), Burgenland (13,100 ha) and Steiermark (4,633 ha), all in the eastern part of the country. There are 16 subregions distributed among them, mostly notably Wien (Vienna), which is the only wine region in the world featuring vineyards within the limits of a capital city. Austria is responsible for only 1% of the global wine production, and 30% of this production is exported. After Germany and Switzerland, the U.S. is the third biggest importer of Austrian wine. Although Gruner Veltliner accounts for 36% of all vineyards planted, red grapes such as Zweigelt, St. Laurent, Blaufränkisch, and Pinot Noir (known here as Blauburgunder; which translates to “blue burgundy”) thrive in this climate and produce amazing rosés. The Prieler family is first documented in 1347 in the city of Schützen, within the Austrian state of Burgenland. The Prieler estate is on the western side of Lake Neusiedl and is a historic old farm, once dedicated to many types of agriculture but now specializing in grape growing. Two generations of the Prieler family now run the estate: Engelbert and Irmgard, who in 1972 focused the estate on quality production of several grapes, mainly Blaüfrankisch and Burgundian varieties; and their son Georg, who now heads the estate and continues working to best express the unique terroir of the region. As one of the oldest wineries in Austria, Scholss Gobelsburg has several historical vineyard sites around the castle on their estate in the Kamptal region. The oldest archeological finds at the Gobelsburg site date back some 4,000 years, and a castle of this name is mentioned in 1178. The Renaissance structure underlying the present face of the castle was renovated in baroque style in 1725. Having belonged to various aristocratic families, castle and grounds were sold to the Cistercian monks of Zwettl Abbey in 1740 and have been in its possession ever since. The monks managed the winery until 1995, and they used organic fertilizer, abstained from employing herbicides, and aimed to reduce the use of plant protectants. In 1996, the present managers, Eva and Michael Moosbrugger, took responsibility of the building and the winery, which is directed by Michael. Think Pink! Carrie Upson General Manager 2020 Prieler Rosé Vom Stein Region/Country of Origin: Neusiedlersee, Burgenland, Austria From the Winemaker: “It was my grandfather that first bottled wine. He also immediately won accolades for it. My parents turned their full attention to wine. From that point onwards, the focus was quality before quantity. Following this same ideal, my sister Silvia (who interned at Domaine Dujac) took the important steps toward organic cultivation and allowed wild yeasts to run their course. As doctor of molecular biology, she certainly knew what she was doing – as she also did when she left for Vienna in 2012 and handed responsibilities over to me. Like my father in 2002 and my sister in 2009, I also have the honor of being awarded “Vintner of the Year” here in Austria.” -Georg Prieler About the Winemaking: When Georg took the reigns, his priority was to obtain organic certification and cultivate the vineyards organically without compromise. In the vineyards, they prune rigorously, plant cover crops, and pay meticulous attention to canopy management, as their region receives so much sunlight. They make multiple careful selections during harvest in order to control alcohol while still achieving physiological ripeness. This rosé is made in the saignée method directly into the press. Fermentation occurs in tanks, on the full lees for three months. The wine is bottled after 5 months. Tasting Notes: “Vom Stein” (meaning “from stone”) is a mineral-driven rosé. This organic rosé is a perfect balance of juiciness and minerality; it’s at home at the dinner table as well as the porch. Very fragrant bright and dark red berries with subtle spice. Lively, full-bodied and concentrated. Pure drinking enjoyment not only in summer, but throughout the year. Winemaker: Georg Prieler Price: $21 bottle/ $226.80 case Suggested Food Pairing: Appetizers Spinach Strawberry salad Light fish dishes 2020 Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg Cistercien Rosé Region/Country of Origin: Niederösterreich, Kamptal, Austria About the Winery: Schloss Gobelsburg, a Cistercian monastic estate, is one of the oldest wineries in the Austrian Danube area with a documented history that dates back to 1171. All the vineyards are located on slopes and terraces around the valley of the river Kamp near the town of Langenlois and the village of Gobelsburg.. The winery is member of the association 'Österreichische Traditionsweingüter', which is working on a vineyard classification project for the Danube area, and the winery has been recognized by Wine & Spirits Magazine as one of the Top 100 Wineries in the world in 2019. About the Winemaking: Zweigelt, St. Laurent and Pinot Noir grapes grown in the cooler sites of Gobelsburg and Langenlois on 30-year old vines are used for the 'Rosé CISTERCIEN'. The Rosé on the estate is not seen as a secondary product to red wine; it is not saignée method or made to concentrate their red wines. It is worked in the vineyards to get the perfect Gobelsburg-style Rosé, which is somehow closer to a white wine than a red wine in affect. Grapes were harvested in October, aged in stainless tanks, and bottled in March 2021. Tasting Notes: According to the winemaker, “We are seeking a nice elegant aroma, fresh and lean texture and acidity for pure drinking pleasure.” The Rosé CISTERCIEN shows a lovely fresh pink and offers a clear and fresh, subtle fruit and lovely zesty bouquet of red and white fruits. Medium-bodied, lovely acidity and zippy on the palate. The Rosé CISTERCIEN is a perfect companion for the whole evening or a lovely pairing for everything that asks for freshness and more acidity. Winemaker: Michael Moosbrugger Price: $19 bottle/ $205.20 case. Suggested Food Pairing: Triple cream cheeses Charcuterie Chicken with mushroom cream sauce
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July 2021 Wine of the Month : A Toast to Terroir
Terroir is a tricky concept. A broad French term (‘sense of place’ is the most common translation) used to signal specificity (Randall Graham of Bonny Doon identifies it as “the precise opposite of nowhereness”), it is among the first wine words most of us learn, and one that remains central to our understanding of the subject. Most easily defined as the local environmental factors - climate, soil composition, vegetation, topography - that affect the flavor of a particular wine, what exactly constitutes terroir and whether or not it even matters is the source of considerable controversy amongst vintners and eonphilies alike. Maximalists assert that anything that goes into the production of the wine, winemaking technique included, counts as terroir, while others insist it is only the natural constants that qualify, leaving out variables like grapes, vintages and human intervention of any kind. For us, the debate itself illuminates how much the concept of terroir frames what we talk about when we talk about wine, and why we care so much in the first place. So this month we are featuring two winemakers whose efforts are excellent arguments for the continuing relevance of terroir: Chilean Pedro Parra, and Nicolas Mariotti Bindi of Corsica. Pedro Parra has spent most of his life pondering the relationship between wine and terroir. Following an early career as a jazz musician, he attained an actual PhD in terroir from the Paris Center of Agriculture, and his work as a consultant for wineries on four continents has made him legendary for digging six feet deep soil pits (‘calicatas’) to help growers understand the below ground composition of their vineyards (hence the miner’s rock hammer on his wine labels.) In 2017, he realized a long-held dream and founded Pedro Parra Y Familia in the remote Itata Valley of his native Chile. About 500km south of Chile’s capital, Santiago, in the region of Bío Bío, Itata’s historical isolation from the rest of the Chilean wine industry provided a golden opportunity for Parra to put in practice his contention, derived from years studying French terroir, that geology is the key natural component in viticulture. “Rocks matter most”, in other words - and in Itata, that means 220-300 million year old, quartz laden granite soils, supporting some very old vines. More specifically, Pedro prizes the rare white granite compositions that he calls ‘chambolic’, which impart a characteristic minerality, elegance and finesse to the wines. The 2019 Imaginador is a vindication of his efforts; mostly composed of Cinsault, a southern French grape with Pinot Noir-like terroir sensitivity, it is beguiling blend of unique and familiar, a soft, slightly aromatic red with a mineral backbone and smoky overlay that will pair wonderfully with a slight chill and summer cuisine. Like Pedro Parra, Nicolas Mariotta Bindi began his professional education in another field - initially moving to Paris to read law at the Sorbonne - before switching to wine, studying with some local masters, and eventually returning home to farm his native soil. Bindi is from Corsica, the fourth largest, and most mountainous, island in the Medditeranean. It was once ruled from Genoa before the French took over, in time for Napoleon Bonaparte to be born there a French citizen. But Corsica has always been a world of its own, with a viticultural tradition dating back thousands of years, and idiosyncratic microclimates that today comprise nine appellations. Bindi’s plots are in Patrimonio, on the northern coast, the oldest AOC in Corsica. Composed of mostly clay and limestone soils, there is enough internal variance within his fifteen hectares that Bindi divides his vines into four separate terroirs. Our selection this month is 100% Vermentinu (known as Rolle in France and, of course, Vermentino in Italy) from Bindi’s "Cantina di Torra'' label, which comes from a collection of 7.5 hectares of north-facing parcels called "Carcu." The vines were planted in 1970, 1996, and 2006 on clay and limestone and were recently converted to organic farming by Nicolas. It is a great example of specifically Corsican spin on a southern European grape, with a startlingly aromatic and lush nose leading to a classically structured, varietally correct and immensely satisfying palate. Cheers, The PlumpJack Wine Team Pedro Parra “Imaginador” Cinsault 2019 Region / Country of Origin: Itata, Chile About the winemaker: Pedro Parra was born in Concepción, Chile, near Bio Bio and Itata, and he is raising his family there now. He holds a PhD in terroir from the Paris Center of Agriculture, with six years experience in French terroir. As a highly respected consultant working in several countries and terroirs, (Chile, Argentina, USA, Italy, Canada, France, Armenia), Pedro brings an open mind and vision to winemakers and viticulturists alike. Pedro has been described as the leading figure of the “New Chile”movement by the international press, in part because of his constant endeavors to bring a new vision to the Chilean wine industry, searching for quality terroir and developing new plantings throughout the country. About the winemaking: “IMAGINADOR” is a wine that was in Parra’s imagination many years ago, when he discovered the great potential of Itata’s terroir. This wine comes from four different growers, all in the upper part of the hills, over granite soils. All the sites were planted more than 200 years ago, with vines 45-70 years old. All blocks are supposed to be Cinsault, but because of the history they are all Cinsault field blends with Muscat, Semillon, Carignan and Pais. They are all harvested and vinified together. Aged in stainless steel and cement tanks for one year, then eight months elevage in bottle. 1300 cases produced. Tasting Notes: This beautiful Cinsault opens with floral and green leaf aromas that lead to a palate of silky red raspberry fruit, smoke and earthy notes. Winemaker: Pedro Parra $23 bottle /$248.4 case Suggested Food Pairing: Tomato and roasted corn salad Chimichurri Burgers Mesquite grilled chicken Nicolas Mariotti Bindi, Cantina Di Torra Bianco, Oleta 2018/19 Region / Country of Origin: Patrimonio, Corsica About the Winemaker: Originally from Bastia, in northern Corsica, Mariotti Bindi studied winemaking inMoulin-à-Vent in Beaujolais, and then with stages closer to home with Antoine Arena and Muriel Giudicelli before becoming head of viticulture at Domaine Leccia. He produced his first vintage in 2007. About the winemaking: For all his wines, harvest is manual and fermentation happens with natural yeasts. No additives, chemical herbicides or fertilizer are used. However, some sulfur may be added at bottling and filtration may be used if deemed necessary. In 2018, the Vermentinu was deemed so hot by Nicolas that he chose to hold it back on its fine lees in concrete for two years. He then blended it with the 2019 vintage which was much more of an even keeled harvest. Everything is harvested by hand in small baskets and once in the cellar, fermentations occur naturally and sulfur is used in limited doses. Tasting Notes: A generous nose of tropical fruit, honeydew melon and flower. Round, medium mouthfeel highlighted by pear and saline minerality. Winemaker: Nicolas Mariotti Bindi $27 bottle / $291.6 case Suggested Food Pairing: Roasted White meats Fresh Seafood Pasta with white sauce Crunchy greens Fried foods
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