Club Corner
Red Rogues Q3 2025: Santa Cruz Mountains
Santa Cruz Mountain AVA The Santa Cruz Mountains comprise some of the most important places in California wine history. While Napa and Sonoma are more famous today, this rugged, alpine region, with vineyards planted above the fogline, has long crafted some of the best juice the Golden State can produce. There’s even a plausible alternate timeline where the area takes center stage from the start: Count Agostin Harazthy, often called “the father of California Wine”, planted his original vineyard up there. He broke ground too far north though, and when the cold foggy weather prevented his grapes from fully ripening, he sold the land, relocated to Sonoma and started Buena Vista Winery in the early 1860s. The rest is the history that you can read on the Buena Vista website or visit in their museum. Viticulture in the area dates back to the beginning of the 19th century - the first grapes were planted in Mission Santa Cruz between 1804 and 1807, just east of UC Santa Cruz - but these initial attempts did not yield the best results. The Mission grape, a descendent of the Listan Prieto varietal from La Mancha, now grown mostly in the Canary Islands and South America, turned out harsh, bitter wines in the cool climate. Most of the mountains were not planted to vine until the 1850s, when large swathes of redwood were cut down and farmers moved in, planting vegetables and fruits, with grapes being favored for their ability to adapt to the rugged mountain terrain. The first commercial vineyards were established in 1853 by Scottish immigrant Jon Burns, who named his plot Ben Lomond after an old wine district in Scotland. Along with John and George Jarvis in nearby Scotts Valley, he became a pillar of the county's wine industry, which by 1875 was pumping out 70,000 gallons of wine, mostly derived from the Mission grape, and bottled young so it could be rushed to market. This lack of quality control, along with the global depression triggered by the Panic of 1873, and the spread of Phylloxera throughout Europe and California, led to a global crash of the wine market, forcing many wineries in California and elsewhere to close and uproot vineyards. The mid 1880s saw the rise of multiple figures who would help bring a focus on quality farming and winemaking to the region. Emmet H. Rixford, Professor of Surgery at Stanford University, planted 37 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in Woodside, CA overlooking Redwood City and wrote the seminal guide The Wine Press and the Cellar: A Manual for the Wine-Maker and the Cellar-Man in 1883, detailing techniques used in Europe used to produce high quality wine like Château Margaux. Henry and Nellie Mel were French immigrants who bought one of the properties owned by the Jarvis brothers and planted the state's first Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Dr. John A. Stewart, a Scotsman who came to the area in 1883, replicated the practices of the best French vineyards of the time by blending varietals, something that at this point was a fairly new concept in California. Then there was Paul Masson. Born into a well-heeled winemaking family near Beaune, he moved to California after Phylloxera devastated the French wine industry to work with Charles LeFranc at the Almaden Winery in nearby San Jose. LeFranc himself worked at Almaden and married into the family of founder Etienne Thee and is credited with planting the first cuttings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon in California, brought over from France. Masson married Charles' eldest daughter and became famous for the sparkling “Champagne” made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from vineyards in Saratoga. Wines from the area started to gain international acclaim, winning awards at the World’s Fairs throughout the 1890s and into the early 1900s. Prohibition brought a halt to all of this, with vineyards uprooted (again!) and most wineries were forced to shutter their doors or make sacramental wine. The seeds of the area's history were able to live on thanks largely to the work of a protégée of Paul Masson, the infamous Martin Ray. As the late LA wine writer and educator Roy Brady wrote of Ray, “Martin was a colorful character when California badly needed one. He was a boon to the industry, though many in it would have preferred him to have been a boon elsewhere. He was flamboyant, vocal, outrageous, bombastic, imperious, opinionated, unreasonable.” Indeed, Martin was dogmatic in his quest for quality, keeping yields low and refusing to irrigate in the vineyard; he barrel fermented and aged the wines in oak before bottling unfined and unfiltered; he held bottles back until he believed they were ready for sale. This kind of iconoclasm didn’t endear him to many, but was crucial to achieving his goal of producing world class wine to rival the best of Europe and recall Santa Cruz’s prior fin de siècle apogee. In 1943, having already worked, bought and sold Paul Masson’s vineyard, Ray purchased the first parcel of what would be Mount Eden Vineyards, 2000 ft up above the Santa Clara Valley. There, he planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines from cuttings taken from Masson's La Cresta Vineyard, (which itself had been planted from Burgundian cuttings said to have been taken from Paul Masson’s friend Louis Latour) as well as Cabernet Sauvignon from the La Questa Vineyard originally planted by Emmet Rixford in Woodside. Around the same time period, Dr. William Short bought and revamped a vineyard near the top of Monte Bello Ridge in the 1940s that had originally been planted in 1885. By the late 1940s he had replanted several parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon, which three engineers from the Stanford Research Institute, who had recently purchased the property, used to make the first Ridge “Estate” Cabernet. These efforts set the stage for a renaissance for the region in the 1960’s and 70’s, as new growers and winemakers in the region like Dr. David Bruce and Kathryn Kennedy brought worldwide recognition to the area. In 1976 at the famous ‘Judgement of Paris’, two of the 11 wines chosen to represent California's best were from the Santa Cruz Mountains, and placed 5th (Ridge) and 10th (David Bruce.) Then, at a re-tasting held in 2006, the 1971 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon took the #1 spot. Even with all the acclaim, the AVA remains something of a hermit by California wine standards. Though it covers over 100 miles and 400,000 acres, from Half Moon Bay in the north to the peak of Mount Madonna in the south, only 1,500 of the latter are planted to vine, farmed by just 90 growers and wineries, most of which are 20 or more miles away from each other. (Paso Robles has over 200, by comparison.) Viticulture here continues to be a very high-risk/high reward venture. The challenges, including and on top of the cold weather, are numerous: Irrigation water is very limited or nonexistent; birds (all vineyards must be netted), deer (all vineyards must be fenced) and gophers are ever-present; the ever present risk of fires - the CZU Lightning Complex fire of 2020 destroyed over 86,500 acres of land between Santa Cruz and San Mateo counties; with the skilled labor is hard to find; and disease pressure, particularly downy mildew, powdery mildew and botrytis is ever-present. Historically, grapes ripened in only three out of every ten vintages. The land, being so close to Silicon Valley, is also very expensive, which raises the prices of grapes and winemaking facilities in the region as well. The rewards are (hopefully) self-evident in your glasses this go round, and the result of extremely unique, ‘unicorn’ terroir created by eons of geologic upheaval, that is very much ongoing. The San Andreas Fault in particular, has churned up and exposed marine sediment at the edge of the Pacific Plate which would be otherwise inaccessible. The diverse soils and various micro-climates allow for the growing of Burgundian and Bordeaux varietals alike, and yield elegant and subtle wines, lower in alcohol and with more expressive minerality than the familiar Napa and Sonoma archetypes. These days, both the old guard and the new school are up to awesome things, and we have examples of each here to show why this region - remote and yet so close to home - deserves our respect and attention. Cheers, Justin Malesheetz - Wine Buyer, Fillmore 2021 McHenry Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir “Swan Clone” Region / Country of Origin: Ben Lomond Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Founded in the early 1970s with the goal of planting a vineyard as near as they could get to where UC Davis scientists had discovered an area ideal for growing Pinot Noir, UC Santa Cruz's founding Chancellor, Dean E. McHenry, along with his wife Jane, son Henry, and daughter-in-law Linda planted 4 acres. Linda, a trained viticulturist from UC Davis, tended the vineyard while Henry, a Paleontologist and retired professor at UC Davis, learned winemaking from his colleagues. The vineyard and winery are now run by the third generation with their daughter Annalisa McHenry, a schoolteacher in Oakland, and her partner Brandon Blanchard, along with their cousins Ian McHenry and Henry. About the Vineyard: The former Christmas tree farm sits 5 miles east and 1,800 ft. above the Pacific Ocean in the Santa Cruz Mountains, just north of the small town of Bonny Doon, CA. The dry-farmed vineyard is on a sandy slope, surrounded by redwood forest. About the Winemaking: 100% Pinot Noir from a block planted from cuttings taken from Joseph Swan’s vineyard in the Russian River Valley aged for almost 2 years in 60 gallon French oak. Tasting Notes: Pale dark crimson in the glass with an earthy savory nose swirling with notes of rhubarb, mushroom, wild strawberry, red cherry, and blood orange. The wine is built for the long haul, with a spine of vibrant acidity and grippy tannins and flavors of cherry liquor, cranberry, and long herbaceously floral finish. Decant an hour before drinking. Winemaker: Henry McHenry Price per bottle / Price per case: $40.99 per bottle Suggested Food Pairing: Deep fried turkey, roast chicken, seared tuna 2021 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Zayante Vineyard Syrah Region / Country of Origin: Santa Cruz Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard was founded by Ken Burnap, a Texan with a love of wine who had moved to Southern California and spent his free time traveling around Northern California looking for the best places for Pinot Noir to grow. In 1974, he believed he had found one such place and purchased a vineyard in Santa Cruz County with the goal of making a world-class pinot. For 2 years, he commuted between Orange County and Santa Cruz before pulling up stakes and committing fully to making wine, at first only making Pinot Noir, but eventually expanding to Cabernet Sauvignon and. In 2002, Ken retired and passed the business on to his longtime apprentice and collaborator, Jeff Emery. About the vineyards: Planted at nearly 1200 ft elevation and certified organic, Zayante is a small family owned vineyard that has been producing grapes for over 140 years. For the last 45 years it has been producing Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera and Grenache from own-rooted and dry farmed vines grown on rolling sandstone hills. About the Winemaking: 100% Syrah destemmed and aged for 2 years and 7 months in a combination of new and used French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Tasting Notes: A deep violet in the glass with a rich savory nose evocative of classic Northern Rhone syrah with a nose of candied violets, peppery charcuterie, graphite, fresh potting soil, and eucalyptus. A bright, expressive medium bodied wine on the palate with vibrant acidity and grippy tannins framing waves of dusty black plum and fresh dark berries finishing with a long, richly floral dry finish. Winemaker: Jeff Emery Price per bottle / Price per case: $43.99 per bottle Suggested Food Pairing: Lamb shanks, kabab koobideh 2016 Lexington Wine Co. Gist Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Region / Country of Origin: Santa Cruz Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Originally envisioned by Thomas Fogarty and Michael Martella out of a love for the Bordeaux styled wines made by Ridge and Mount Eden in the 1970s, they knew the land they were working with was too cold to do the varieties justice, but vowed to one day plant a vineyard to the classic Bordeaux grapes. In 2000 Thomas Fogarty Jr. and current winemaker Nathan Kandler accomplished this goal. About the vineyard: Gist Ranch vineyard is located on the Pacific Plate in Santa Cruz County at an elevation of 2,400ft 17 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Planted by the Fogarty family in 2000, the vines are densely planted, decreasing the spacing between vines to make the vines compete for resources which can create smaller more concentrated berries, and utilise organic and sustainable farming practices. Tasting Notes: A deep ruby with aromas of tobacco, truffle, licorice, baking chocolate, and a melange of fresh and dried dark fruit. While the nose prepares you for a dense powerful wine, the palate is surprisingly fresh and lithe, which feels a good deal lighter than its stated 14.5%. Bright acidity with tannins that while softened with age still have a persistence to them are accompanied by flavors of fresh blackberries, black cherry, and plum on a long fresh berry finish. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc. Winemaker: Nathan Kandler Price per bottle / Price per case: $90 per bottle from the winery. Click here and enter the word fogarty to see special pricing Suggested Food Pairing: Steak of any kind, roast duck
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Q3 2024 Red Rogues Club
SOUTH AFRICA The history of South African wine traces back to 1659 when Jan van Riebeeck, the founder and governor, produced the very first bottle in Cape Town. The 18th century marked a significant expansion for their wine industry, particularly with a focus on sweet and fortified wines. Brandy production thrived, driving the need for white grape cultivation and boosting exports. However, the British invasion in 1795 reshaped South Africa's history and its wine landscape, leading to rapid vineyard growth and a flourishing export market, especially to Britain. Yet, as British trade interests shifted toward France, South African wine exports began to decline. The situation worsened with the phylloxera epidemic, which devastated vineyards, and the onset of the Anglo-Boer War, further straining the industry. By the early 20th century, these challenges had left the wine sector struggling, marking a pivotal moment in its development. Apartheid in the country led to international sanctions in the 1960s, further hampering the growth of the wine industry. But it was during this time that some independent producers began improvements in viticulture and winemaking. And when apartheid ended in 1994, the momentum toward quality over quantity was building. The ability to access global markets spurred fresh investments in the country's wine industry. The Wine of Origin (WO) system, established in 1973, comprises approximately 60 appellations that categorize designated production areas into regions, districts, and wards. Wines labeled under WO are required to include grapes solely from their specific region of origin. Furthermore, "Single Vineyard" wines must originate from a defined plot of land no larger than 6 hectares. An "Estate Wine" can be produced from nearby farms if they are cultivated together and the wine is made on-site. A ward is characterized by unique soil types or climatic conditions, paralleling a European appellation in its designation. Wine production is primarily centered in and around Cape Town, largely confined to the Western Cape province, with significant vineyards and production hubs located in Constantia, Paarl, Stellenbosch, and Worcester. The Cape winelands span from the rugged mountains and varied slopes of the coastal region to the open and wild plains of the Klein Karoo, where viticulture primarily takes place in the riverine valleys. Each region has its own unique characteristics and microclimates, allowing winemakers to craft an array of styles, from elegant and cool-climate whites to bold and robust reds. In the Western Cape, which is near the coast, the icy Atlantic Ocean helps moderate temperatures. On the coastal side, where fynbos and renosterveld (‘rhinoceros field’, derived from the historical presence of rhinoceros in these grassy plains) thrive, the annual rainfall measures up to 39 inches. As one travels over the mountains into the wilderness, the rainfall dramatically decreases, and the vegetation is dominated by hardy succulents, cycads, and aloes. South African wine makes up less than half a percent of imported wine in the United States, which is significantly less than other major non-European wine-producing countries, so we thought we’d introduce you to some of the best South Africa has to offer. We have also hyperlinked several South African recipes to try with these delicious wines. Cheers, Carrie Upson- General Manager/Wine Buyer De Toren Z Red Blend 2016 Region / Country of Origin: Stellenbosch, South Africa About the vineyards: The vineyards are situated approximately six miles from False Bay, at altitudes of 655 feet above sea level. The “Z” block, set on a south-facing slope, is exposed to cooling ocean breezes. There are 10 different soil types found on the estate, but the Merlot based Z hails mainly from clay-rich soils of Sterkspruit, Estcourt and Vilafonte. De Toren is Dutch for “the tower.” The name refers to the winery structure which allows for gravity flow winemaking. Winemaking Notes: The grapes were handpicked in the cool, early morning hours and transported in small baskets to the winery, where they were hand sorted and de-stemmed. They were gently crushed and gravity fed into open-top fermentation tanks where regular manual punch downs were performed during fermentation. The wine was basket pressed and gravity fed into 225 liter oak barrels (25% new, 25% second fill, 25% third fill and 25% fourth fill), where it was aged for 12 months in a climatized barrel room (61°F at 80% humidity). Each varietal component was vinified and aged separately in French oak with the exception of Malbec, which was aged in American oak. 54% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 12% Malbec, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot Tasting Notes: You’ll find it tantalizingly soft on the tongue, with a hint of aniseed, liquorice, raspberry and cranberries lending a fresh acidity to its polished finish. This follows through perfectly on the palate, revealing pure juicy red fruit, berries and plum. Complex and vibrant, this expressive red showcases velvety, finely knit tannins…just as one would expect from a Merlot-led blend! Winemaker: Martin Fourie Cellar Master: Charles Williams Price per bottle / Price per case: $52.99 btl/ $572.29 Suggested Food Pairing: Duck pate or pork terrines, Beef carpaccio, Peri Peri Duck, Crispy New Potatoes & Kale, Beef Wellington Maanschijn Herbarium Cape Red 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Walker Bay, South Africa About the winery: Derived from the Dutch term for moonlight, Maanschijn is now an artisanal wine production situated inside a heritage building and below a tall mountain peak. A collaboration between two winemakers, Douglas Mylrea and Paul Hoogwerf, who attended both high school and university together. After studying winemaking in Stellenbosch, they went on their separate journeys, gaining experience in cellars and vineyards around the world. Many vintages passed before a series of fortunate events led their paths to cross, once again. It was at this meeting where they discovered, in each other, a shared passion and philosophy towards their craft, and together, co-founded their young wine company. About the winemaking: The Herbarium Cape Red is primarily Pinotage, with Syrah and Mourvèdre making up the rest. Pinotage is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault and was created in the early 20th century in South Africa. For Herbarium Cape Red, each varietal was fermented with native yeast, and partially in whole bunches before being pressed to neutral French oak. After nine months of aging, the wine was blended and bottled without fining. 42% Pinotage, 38% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre. Minimal Intervention. Tasting Notes: Each varietal shines so well in this wine. The Pinotage yields black cherry and rose petal notes; the Syrah gives a seductive inky purple color, along with violet and peppery tones; and then loads of dried herbs shine from the Mourvèdre. The calling card of Walker Bay shines too, as a beautiful stony and saline minerality comes through in the finish. Winemakers: Douglas Mylrea and Paul Hoogwerf Price per bottle / Price per case: $30.99 btl/ $334.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Heavy stews or red meat dishes, Smoked meats, Potjiekos, Peppercorn rubbed steak with sauteed mushrooms. Scions of Sinai Swanesang Syrah 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Stellenbosch, South Africa About the Winemaker: Bernhard Bredell, a seventh-generation vineyard farmer, is deeply rooted in South Africa’s winemaking heritage. Raised among Sinai Hill’s ancient vines, he carries the legacy of his ancestors who planted the first vines 160 years ago. Bernhard’s commitment to regenerative and dry farming methods, combined with his passion for nurturing the land, reflects in his exceptional wines. His efforts to preserve historic bush vines have earned him a vital role in the South African wine scene, offering a unique taste of Helderberg’s exceptional terroir. His dedication and the allure of this pristine land are truly captivating. About the Winemaking: As with all Scions of Sinai wines, the grapes are hand harvested and immediately brought into the tanks early in the morning. Swanesang undergoes a long natural fermentation in open-top fermenters where 90% of the grapes are left whole-cluster. Fermentation is approached as more of an infusion process than that of extracting, so occasional pump-overs and partial post-fermentation-maceration is carried out before pressing. It is then transferred to large format concrete and older 400L French oak barrels and aged on its fine lees for 11 months. Tasting Notes: Dark as night, explosively aromatic, full-bodied, and with perfectly integrated tannins. Notes of violets, cloves, and cracked peppercorns shine first; then emerges cassis, blueberries, black olives, licorice, and dried fynbos brush. Swanesang is full-bodied, concentrated, rich and velvety. It’s seamless and long—just the complete package in a wine that’s perfectly approachable yet capable of aging effortlessly for two decades or more. Winemaker: Bernhard Bredell Price per bottle / Price per case: $40.99/btl/$442.70 Suggested Food Pairing: Bobotie, Boerewors, Game meats like venison, ostrich, duck, & rabbit, Dark chocolate
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Q1 2024 Red Rogues: Whole Cluster Fermentation and Carbonic Maceration
Whole Cluster Fermentation and Carbonic Maceration This quarter we decided to bring you three red wines that are examples of whole cluster fermentation and carbonic maceration. What are those you might ask? Here’s the basics. WHOLE CLUSTER FERMENTATION involves harvesting the entire grape cluster from the vine and fermenting it along with the stems. This is in contrast to the more commonly used method of removing the individual grape berries from the clusters and discarding the stems before crushing and fermenting. Winemakers can opt to incorporate a few whole clusters alongside destemmed grapes or fully commit to using 100 percent whole clusters. Based on my understanding, the majority of wines using whole-cluster fermentations commonly consist of approximately 20- 40% whole clusters. What distinguishes a wine fermented with whole clusters (including stems and seeds) from the more traditional destemmed method? Stems contribute distinct flavors, as well as additional tannins and structure. The success of this process depends on the ripeness of the stems. It may seem unusual, but when grapes are harvested early, the stems can remain green and flexible, resulting in more vegetal and herbal characteristics. However, if the grapes are left on the vine longer, the stems undergo lignification, turning brown and woody, and the flavors they impart become more mellow and spicy, resembling black tea, floral, or forest floor notes. According to certain winemakers, the inclusion of stems in the fermentation process can enhance it by supporting the yeast and enabling a slight level of carbonic maceration. It is not difficult to imagine that some bunches at the bottom, with the weight of other grapes on top, could potentially generate spontaneous carbonic maceration. So what is CARBONIC MACERATION? In a traditional carbonic maceration, grape clusters are placed in a sealed tank, where the absence of oxygen and the presence of trapped carbon dioxide allows the grapes to ferment within their skins. Once alcohol levels reach approximately 2% abv, the grape skins rupture and release their juice. Carbonic maceration results in minimal tannin extraction but some color, resulting in red wines that are light in hue and low in tannin, with a smooth, fruity character. Examples of wines made in this style include Beaujolais Nouveau, which are best enjoyed when young and sometimes slightly chilled. However, we chose to showcase grape varieties other than Gamay, as more producers are utilizing this technique to create fresh and enjoyable wines. If we could make a general statement about carbonic wines tasting notes, you’ll frequently encounter flavors such as raspberry, strawberry, and bubblegum. We hope you enjoy! Carrie Upson- General Manager/Wine Buyer Ena ‘Eurica” 2021 Primitivo Region / Country of Origin: , Mariah Vineyard, Mendocino, California About the winemakers: ENA stands for "Eglantine & Alberto", also for "Europe & America". “We are from Europe and live in America, we make wine on American terroirs with European personalities. Our winemaking, in a nutshell, is an assertive approach towards nature rather than obstructive. Our decisions are based on improving the expression of the vineyard, rather than pushing wines towards a style. There is no trick, no makeup. With minimal intervention, we ferment with native yeasts and carefully select our barrels to respect the fruits.” About the Vineyards: Mariah Vineyards is under the Mendocino ridge sub-AVA, one of the most exclusive cool climate AVAs in California. Mariah Vineyards, a magical and magnificent mountaintop island, resides about 5 miles from the pacific coast, 2600 feet above the Pacific Ocean and rests above the fog line. The property is conducted following regenerative and organic methods and is completely dry farmed. Winemaking: 40% of the clusters through a true carbonic maceration for 15 days, followed by a fermentation on skin for 5 days. The rest of the harvest fermented traditionally in open top tanks with regular punch down during fermentation. After pressing, the wine underwent malolactic fermentation in French neutral oak barrels for a few more weeks before it was racked and returned for aging for 10 months. With minimal SO2 additions and without any movement until June 2022, we bottled on July 05th 2022. Tasting Notes: The nose starts with abundant spices as star anise, cardamon and freshly crushed black and white pepper. It then opens with cool layers of fresh, black bush fruits and graphite. The traditional maceration brought to the blend structure, savory characters, vibrant freshness, and focus. The carbonic portion added the fruit forward and intense spicy bouquet to the nose. The palate is opulent and powerful, with a perfect balance of acidity, roundness, and silky structure. The refreshing and uplifting aromas give to EURICA 2021 its exceptional length and personality. Winemaker: Eglantine Chauffour and Alberto Bianchi Price per bottle / Price per case: $55.99/btl $604.70 Suggested Food Pairing: Pasta all’Amatriciana Jambalaya Eggplant parmesan Lentil stew Stoplman “Crunchy Roastie” 2022 Syrah Region / Country of Origin: Los Olivos and Foxen Canyon, Santa Barbara, California About the winemaker: “Over 20 years ago, our Founding Partner, Tom Stolpman, discovered what we believe to be one of the greatest viticultural sites on earth. Hidden in the hills of California’s Central Coast, on a rare Limestone outcropping & unobstructed from the Pacific Ocean wind, this unique land is naturally suited to grow Syrah and Roussanne grapes. “We are committed to preserving this natural environment for our vines through conscious farming, dry farming, & sustainable employment. In the winery, we prefer native fermentation & minimal manipulation.” About the winery: Stoplman’s journey to reduce extraction led them to try whole-grape fermentation (no extraction at all) with the first Carbonic Sangiovese cuvee bottled from the 2013 vintage. After falling in love with the lighter bodied Carbonic Sangiovese, they chose to experiment with the carbonic fermentation of Syrah. Because they wouldn’t extract any tannin, they could pick the Syrah earlier, with the grape skin still crunchy. They borrowed the Cote Rotie (Roasted Slope) trick of co-fermenting a dollop of earlier ripening Viognier for floral aromatics and more weight bonded with the bright mid-palate fruit. About the Winemaking: 100% whole cluster with native fermentation for 9-10 days. Fermentation occurs in sealed stainless steel tanks which are then drained and pressed into settling tanks to finish primary fermentation. Tasting Notes: In the glass, black with glimmering red sparks. On the nose, a swirling fruit punch vortex with layered olive and black fruit in every twist and turn. In the mouth, a marriage of pop and depth like your favorite “guilty pleasure” album. The captivating line of Sangre Citrus Stone energy carries the day with a deeper ripe plum flesh and juiciness within. This benchmark edition of Crunchy Roastie mounts the podium with both gold and silver – flaunting both freshness and depth in a perfect one-two punch. Winemaker: Kyle Knapp Price per bottle / Price per case: $28.99/btl $313.10 Suggested Food Pairing: Slow cooked leg of lamb Duck with olives Veal chop with morel mushrooms Chocolate cake Storm Curtis Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Cabernet Franc Region / Country of Origin: Santa Ynez Valley, California About the winemaker: Ernst Storm grew up in South Africa and completed his studies at Elsenburg Agricultural School, which is just outside the town of Stellenbosch in the Western Cape. After completing his final year, Ernst worked as a winemaker in the Stellenbosch region and also spent two harvests in the cooler Walker Bay region in South Africa, while consulting on a few smaller projects with his brother Hannes. Vineyard Site: Curtis Vineyard is committed to the principles of sustainable, organic, and biodynamic vineyard farming. Their low input viniculture methods ensure that the growing of the premium grapes have minimal impact on the environment and their workers. About the Winemaking: “At Storm Wines we follow one rule - make the wines we like to drink. So it was only natural for us to add a carbonic Cabernet Franc to the line up! 100% Carbonic 14 day ferment Aged is 600 liter barrels 10 months aging on lees No fining or filtration.” Tasting Notes: Bright cherry fruit and bell pepper dominate the nose with hints of tea leaf and red pepper flakes. The palate is bursting with berry fruit and held together by fine tannins and a firm structure. Winemaker: Ernst Storm Price per bottle / Price per case: $40.99/btl/442.70 Suggested Food Pairing: Chèvre, Boursin or Camambert Grilled Steak Fajitas Vegetarian Bean Chili, Sweet and spicy smoked pork belly burnt ends.
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May 2023 Wine of the Month Club
NEW ZEALAND On September 25, 1819, the Reverend Samuel Marsden, chaplain to New South Wales in Australia, planted a grape vine in the soils of Stone Store, KeriKeri in the Bay of Islands at the top of New Zealand’s North Island. This date is considered the birth of New Zealand viticulture, though Marsden didn’t initially get very far: he planted hundreds of different varietals, and hungry goats make short work of every last one. His journal observations have proven more durable: “New Zealand promises to be very favorable to the vine”, Marsden wrote; “should the vine succeed, it will prove of vast importance in this part of the globe." This prediction was, if anything, too provincial; today New Zealand is arguably the wine world’s greatest recent success story. In 1990, there were 130 wineries in the country; today there are 670, making 2.85 million hectoliters of wine per year, 90% of which is exported. You are no doubt familiar with the local take on Sauvignon Blanc, a staple of grocery store shelves worldwide. Prized or avoided for its highly distinctive gooseberry-and-grass flavor profiles, it constitutes 70% of total production (and an incredible 85% of exports.) But that is a fairly recent phenomenon - the first Sauvignon Blanc vines were planted in the 1970s. The New Zealand wine scene is capacious, unique and diverse enough to shepherd more than one flock. There are ten major wine regions in New Zealand, equally divided among the country’s two islands, each featuring its own distinctive terroir. Most of them on the eastern coast in the rain shadow of the mountains, with no vineyard more than 120km from the ocean. Kiwi winemakers have wide latitude to employ a range of techniques - irrigation, chaptalisation, acidification, deacidification - to address their extremely variable climates, but with a clear national emphasis on sustainability: 98% of the wineries in the country are so certified. New Zealand is also the pioneer in replacing cork with screw-cap bottle closures to eliminate cork taint; 90% of all wine from New Zealand is now sealed by screw-caps, including our two selections this month. The red is a Syrah from the Te Mata estate, in Hawkes Bay, on the North Island, which dates back in 1854, making it one of the oldest wineries in New Zealand. The white is a Pinot Gris from Loveblock in Marlborough, est. 2004, though it is the passion project of the first couple of Kiwi wine: Kim and Erica Crawford. Having sold their iconic label to Constellations Brands, Erica located a relatively untamed and obscure plot of land, and asked her husband, “the best winemaker I know” to farm it. Enjoy! PlumpJack Wine Team Loveblock Marlborough Pinot Gris 2021 Region / Country of Origin: Awatere Valley, Marlborough, NZ About the winery: “The grapes come from our family-owned Loveblock Farm in Lower Dashwood and were sourced entirely from our certified organic Triangle vineyard. Here on the valley floor, the vineyard soils are aged alluvial loams containing some silt loam over stone. Organic management decreases the vigour of the vines, reducing berry size and hence overall yields. The grapes were harvested in late March yielding nine tonnes per hectare. About the winemaking: In making a dry style of Pinot Gris, we have to manage the vine to give physiological ripeness at low Brix, so that the wine is not overly alcoholic. Organic management does this for us, with the competition from the wild flowers and grasses forcing the vine to struggle. Once the grapes were deemed ripe, the fruit was machine harvested and membrane pressed immediately (no preservatives were added in the field to reduce the grape phenolics). The juice was then floated and inoculated with certified organic Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast in stainless steel tank. At 8 Brix, 10% of the juice was fermented in neutral French oak barrels and another 10% was transferred to a concrete egg for fermentation. These portions underwent malolactic fermentation to add complexity and mouthfeel to the finished wine. The wine was stabilized and bottled in October 2021. Certified organic.” Tasting Notes: Color: Pale with golden touches. Aroma: Elegant aromas of rockmelon yield to layers of chamomile and citrus. Palate: Beautiful prosciutto-wrapped melon, Nashi pear and fruit notes are underscored with lingering texture, mouthfeel and linear acidity. The palate is complex, finishing with hints of wet stone minerality. Winemaker: Kim Crawford Price: $26.99 btl/ $291.50 case Suggested Food Pairing: A wine to enjoy with delicate Asian flavors, seafood of all sorts or just simply by itself. Te Mata Estate Syrah 2021 Region / Country of Origin: Hawkes Bay, New Zealand About the winery: Te Mata Estate was originally part of Te Mata Station, a large pastoral land-holding established by English immigrant, John Chambers, in 1854. A homestead and stables were built on the property in the early 1870’s. After returning from France, John Chamber’s third son, Bernard, had the idea to plant vineyards on the north-facing hills around Havelock North. In 1892, Bernard Chambers planted vines on three parcels of hillside land above the homestead and began converting the original stables to ferment and mature these first Te Mata Estate Wines. Today, Te Mata Estate still uses those same three vineyards. The Chambers family sold the property in 1919. Te Mata Vineyards (TMV) was established and the property had two other owners until it was acquired by the Buck and Morris families in 1974 – the two families behind the modern interpretation of this historic New Zealand estate. About the winemaking: Hawke’s Bay is a very special place for making wine. Its range of slopes, plains and climatic differences, coupled with low humidity and ample ultra-violet light, give winemakers a comprehensive toolkit to showcase their skills. Soils are young and derived from the gravels, silt and sands left behind as the three main rivers of Hawke’s Bay changed course over thousands of years. Tasting Notes: Dark and brooding in the glass, Estate Syrah ’21 is ink-black with a vivid magenta edge. The lifted aromatics of concentrated raspberry and crushed violets quickly become layer upon layer of exotic spices, fruit cake, pancetta, vanilla, and cocoa running the length of this wine’s luscious palate. Winemaker: Phil Brodie Price: $26.99 btl/$291.50 case Suggested Food Pairing: Venison Steaks with a Chilli Plum Sauce or Spicy Beef Koftas. Syrah is also a great match for sausage, ribs, grilled lamb and rib-eye steak – meaning a tasty New Zealand syrah is a must-have for backyard dinners from the BBQ.
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October '22 Rosé Club
It has been a while since we featured Italian Rosé (aka Rosato) in club, so for this month we are featuring some exciting wines from Sicily. The Italian island of Sicily, located off the southern tip of mainland Italy, is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. It’s best known for its ashy, volcanic terrain, coastal sea breezes, and mountainous terrain. A renowned culinary and enological legacy, the island had lured travelers and conquerors over millennia, and each left an indelible mark onto its rich cultural tapestry. Sicily is also the largest wine region in Italy by landmass - one that is poised to expand as wine enthusiasts look for new territories and unexpected flavors. A true microcosm of Italy, Sicily can be described as a “viticultural continent.” The region is home to 23 DOCs scattered over a handful of regions, the most well known of which are Etna, Marsala, and Vittoria. Located on the northeastern coast of Sicily, Mt. Etna is the tallest and most active volcano in Europe. A fascinating land, it is particularly fertile thanks to the numerous lava flows. The Etna DOC consists of small areas called districts, and it represents an important portion of the wine growing industry in Sicily. The area is located within the Etna Park, a protected natural area, to be safeguarded as much as possible. Here, it is possible to ski while overlooking the sea, a unique and breathtaking view. From the terraced slopes of the Etna volcano, indigenous and ancient vines produce an elegant style wine that leverages the rich volcanic soils and mountain/hill side fruit. Sicilian winemakers primarily use the indigenous Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese, and Carricante grape varieties to produce elegant and racy rosato wines with a deep pink color and savory flavors. However, sometimes they also blend international varieties like Syrah into their wines. Think Pink! Carrie Upson-General Manager TASCANTE 'TEFRA' ROSATO ETNA DOC Region/Country of Origin: Sicily, Italy About the Winery: The Tasca family currently owns four parcels, located in the contrade (a small subdivision of a commune, based on various defining criteria such as elevation, cultural/historic significance, or the age of past lava flows) of Pianodario and Sciaranova in Randazzo, and Rampante and Grasà in Castiglione. The vineyards are mostly at elevations between 2450-2600 feet on the 11,000 foot mountain. All are certified as sustainable under SOStain, a Sicilian-based program that rates wineries and vineyards based on their impact to the environment. The most notable grape planted here is Nerello Mascalese. About the Winemaking: 100% Nerello Mascalese. Direct pressing of the grapes, fermentation process for white wine using the free-run must. The wine sees Battonage every 10 days for 4 months before again for another 5 months in stainless steel tanks. Tasting Notes: The 2021 Rosato Etna Tefra is remarkably pretty, with sweet smoke and melon complemented by hints of crushed almond and candied citrus. While silky in feel, a burst of brilliant acidity and salty mineral tones add a reverberation of tension, as orchard fruits and inner florals settle in toward the close. There’s a richness that lasts through the finale, seldom found in a Rosato, as the Tefra tapers off with a saline flourish that keeps the mouth watering for more. This is the magic of Nerello Mascalese Rosato. “Intense and tangy red fruits are defined by saline acidity and a touch of structure, with a long, mineral finish” 93 Points Decanter Magazine Winemaker: Laura Orsi with Carlo Ferrini, consulting winemaker Price: $24 btl /$259.20 case Suggested Food Pairing: Sicilian “Pasta alla Norma” Chicken Parmesan Heirloom Panzanella Salad POGGIO ANIMA “RAPHAEL” ROSATO Region/Country of Origin: Terre Siciliane IGT, Italy About the Winemaker: Poggio Anima is a joint venture between one of Tuscany's rising stars, Riccardo Campinoti of Le Ragnaie in Montalcino and his U.S.A. importer Ronnie Sanders of Vine Street Imports. The idea is straightforward: to source great vineyards from existing relationships and produce a real wine that conveys a place and a grape. These wines are not bulk wines or leftover juice from a winery; instead, they are the result of long-standing relationships with reputable and respected growers throughout Italy. About the Winemaking:. Compromised of 86% Syrah and 14% Moscato from Castellammare and Salemi, the grapes were all handpicked and brought back to the cellar for immediate pressing. The musts fermented together in stainless steel at 15 deg C, after a static sedimentation at 5 deg C. Fermentation was carried out for 15 days, after which the wine aged for three months in tank prior to being bottled with a light fining, coarse filtration and reasonable addition of sulfur. Sustainable and practicing organic. Tasting Notes: Light pink. Peppery and floral notes complement red berries on the nose and in the mouth. This wine is round and juicy, with the light red fruit flavors and floral notes carrying through on the persistent finish, which features an underbrush nuance. Firm acid holds it all together to make it the perfect glass of rosé. Winemaker: Riccardo Campinot Price: $16 btl/ $172.80 case Suggested Food Pairing: BBQ Chicken wings Prawn curry Eggplant Caponata Pasta
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