Club Corner
Red Rogues Q2 2026: Fielder's Choice
Chances are you’ve seen, read or heard the term “field blend” in relation to wine. On one level, its meaning isn't super difficult to parse: a field blend is wine made from at least a few different grapes that share a common habitat - specifically, a field/vineyard, like it says right there in the name. But what distinguishes such a bottling from others, whether single varietal or non-field blends, can be less clear, even though the distinction carries significant implications w/r/t winemaking philosophy, methodology and, perhaps most importantly, in-the-glass experience. So for this installment of Red Rogues we are offering up two outstanding examples of field blends at work (and play) - and one great non-field combo, for contrast. All come from California, as the Golden State is as refulgent a prism as any through which to view this particular hue-niverse (sorry) of (red) fruited plains. First though, a brief primer on field blends. The vast majority of the blends you drink, including all the most famous (Bordeaux, Cotes du Rhone) are made by taking grapes grown in different varietal-specific vineyard sites, fermenting them separately, and then combining them together to produce the final wine. Field blends on the other hand are a melange, hodgepodge or farrago ( feel free to agglomerate your preferred term) of grapes grown in a single place that are picked and fermented simultaneously. And for most of the history of viticulture, they were very much the norm; until quite recently, farmers had neither the tools nor the time or technology to farm, harvest and vinify grapes from disparate sites. So they planted different grapes for different reasons - some for acidity, some for color, others for ripeness - a method that also provided a kind of insurance against various environmental caprices. If one grape crop was ruined by bad weather, they could use the others, with different ripening schedules, to mitigate the loss. Makes sense. But in our present epoch of scientific and technological surplus, with the focus on precision, rigorous clonal selection and single varietal expressions, what explains the persistence of the field blend? Well, there are some places - Austria w/ its Gemischter Satz heritage Portugal and its countless native varietals - where the methodology is a long-standing tradition, and its resultant products arguably the quintessential expressions of the local terroir. And while it isn’t immediately apparent that California, renowned for Cab Sauv, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, might be among them, field blends span the entire history of California winemaking, and are experiencing a real renaissance of late. This is perhaps most evident in Zinfandel, maybe the California grape and the predominant ingredient of most of the state’s old vine blends. Field blends are by definition composed of older vines that have survived the mono-varietal takeover; the complexity and balance they can offer makes them an attractive proposition despite the intensive labor their cultivation demands, and the vintage-to-vintage consistency they lack, when compared with single grape bottlings. Anyway, this quarter we are spotlighting three of our favorite such concatenations, made with varying degrees of fealty to the field blend ideal. The Mengler Medley Red Blend is as field blend as it gets, composed of 60+ different varietals from the Algeria vineyard in Russian River Valley. The Mora Estate Valpo features 6 grapes all, except for Cab Franc, from the Veneto region of Italy. While they are all from the same vineyard site, they are not all fermented together. The third selection is a blend of mostly Spanish grapes from different vineyards, by the great Enfield label. Cheers, The PlumpJack Wine Team Mengler Medley Red Blend 2022 Region/Country of Origin: Alegria Vineyards, Russian River Valley, Sonoma California About The Winemaker: Mengler Family Wines was founded in 2014 with a focus on producing vineyard designated, unique and exclusive wines for the purpose of creating memorable wine enjoyment experiences. Family and friends do almost all the work throughout the year on this block from pruning, trimming and leafing all the way to harvesting the grapes by hand in the darkness of night. About the Winemaking: The winemaking principle is to use all Sonoma County grapes combined with all American Oak using techniques designed to highlight the characteristics of the varietals. This is a true field blend, composed of 60+ varietals.Tasting Notes: Sweetly floral nose of cranberry and raspberry jam leading to medium bodied palate with notes of coconut, red fruit, raspberries and cherry liqueur. Finish is dry but with lush fruit and floral accents. Winemaker: Chris Mengler Price per bottle: $47.99 Suggested Food Pairing: Red meats, Hearty stews, Grilled Chicken Mora Estate Valpo 2022 Region/Country of Origin: California About the winemaker: Fabiano Ramaci, Winemaker and Chef, has been surrounded by wine his entire life. His love of wine and food began at his family’s restaurant, La Traviata, an iconic San Francisco restaurant and a favorite dining room of the opera stars. Fabiano’s dream has always been to create wines in a method that shares a balance of old world and new world, while maintaining the sophistication and elegance of the wine. He is proud to be the only winemaker in California making wine in the Amarone tradition. About the Winemaking: The varieties are harvested together and the marriage of flavors begins at the inception of the wine. About a third of the fruit is placed on drying racks, which are stacked and left to dry for 120 days. The remaining two-thirds of the fruit is fermented on the skins with the lees from the previous vintage of our Amarone. This method, known as ripasso, or double fermentation, adds more structure, body and flavors to the wine. Tasting Notes: Layered, intriguing aromatics of plum, currant and mixed dark berries merge with baking spices and dusty tannins. The palate hosts an array of bright, spicy flavors that linger on. Queen Anne cherry, pomegranate arils, bright strawberry and traces of rhubarb blend with hints of spice in the long finish. Winemaker: Fabiano Ramaci Price per bottle: $42.99 Suggested Food Pairing: Braised oxtail tortellini with a black truffle sauce, or assorted cheeses with membrillo. Enfield Pretty Horses Red Blend 2022 Region/Country of Origin: California About the Winemaker: Enfield Wine Co. is the family project of John Lockwood and Amy Seese, with a focus on producing wines of personality. They do not subscribe to the ideal of the perfect wine, but to the notion that the very best wines tell a unique story. Driven by soil first and foremost, Enfield Wine Co. seeks out vineyards that possess a distinct and powerful sense of place – across region, grape variety, and vine age. Working only with small vineyards and independent growers, every step of the process is guided by the intent to maximize this character of terroir. Grapes are harvested for balance and the wines are all given the chance to ferment naturally. After surviving a summer job in high school hand-weeding grape vines at a winery in Vermont and studying as an apprentice to a Master Luthier (guitar builder) in Oakland, John Lockwood got his start in the California wine industry in 2004 working up at Heron Lake vineyard with David Mahaffey. He went on to work harvests with Ted Lemon at Littorai, Bodega Melipal in Argentina, and Failla Wines with Ehren Jordan where he worked for 5 years farming and managing the Sonoma Coast and Russian River estate vineyards. He started Enfield Wine Co. in 2010 as small side-project while still working at Failla, and in 2013 took the plunge with Enfield as a full time project.About the Winemaking: The grapes were partially de-stemmed into open top fermenters where the grapes were gently foot tread or punched down no more than once a day during a native yeast fermentation. The wine was aged for 11 months in a combination of 500L and 225L French oak barrels, including 10% new.Tasting Notes: Cacao, black cherry, sassafras, rock salt, star anise, deep umami and a mouth coating finish. Winemaker: John Lockwood Price per bottle: $29.99 Suggested Food Pairing: Paella, Grilled Lamb, or Lasagna
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Quarter 4 Red Rogues: Wines for the Holidays
As the days grow shorter and the few weeks of warm weather we have here in San Francisco fade away, we get into the winter season, one of my favorite times of the year as a fan of cardigans, sweaters, and red wines of all shades and flavors. This combined with the various holidays makes it the perfect time to whip up some hearty comfort food and share a bottle with friends and family. This quarter, we have a trio of wines that, while not your standard wines found on the table, will pair wonderfully with all your holiday fare, whether it be roasts, turkey, pozole, roasted vegetables, or roast duck. Nestled in the south, surrounded by the Black Forest Range to the east and running along the Rhine River from the French/Swiss border to the west, the state of Baden-Württemberg is one of the sunniest regions in Germany, consistently producing quality red wines for over a millennium. Until recently, Germany was known mostly for its age-worthy white wines, both sweet and dry, but with climate change, the country is increasingly recognized for its dry reds. These two regions, with their high elevations and warmer climates (relative to the rest of Germany), are similar to the Loire Valley, Alsace, and Champagne, and have been leading the charge in this regard for decades. Both produce a greater amount of red wine than most German regions. Württemberg is planted with around 70% red wine grapes, predominantly the lighter-bodied Schiava grape, known here as Trollinger, which migrated from its home in Northern Italy in the 14th century. After World War Two, the regions which had been independent German states were merged and split between French and American occupation. For most of the 20th century, the local wines suffered from the same poor reputation as most of Germany’s output, producing light, semi-sweet, and undistinguished bottlings, apart from a few producers. This started to change towards the end of the century with more vintners focusing on quality dry wines. These days, the wines of Württemberg are good enough to garner recognition, despite the fact that most never leave Germany and many are consumed within the state itself. In Eastern France, at equal distance from both Beaune and Geneva, is Arbois, the heart of red wine in the Jura. One of the first 6 regions designated as an AOC in 1936, this mountainous alpine region is known for its quality red wines made from a blend of Pinot Noir, Trousseau, and Poulsard (known here as Ploussard, a thin-skinned grape known for its light color and soft tannins that creates wine with an earthy perfume). A compound of the Celtic words “ar” and “bos”, meaning “fertile land”, Arbois is the largest and oldest appellation in the area, with 850 hectares of vineyards dedicated to 70% red varietals planted on limestone and dark grey shale comprised of silica and clay. While wine has been made in the Jura since the 1st century AD, it wasn’t until the Middle Ages that winemaking truly flourished as monasteries cultivated vineyards and Benedictine monks documented the winemaking practices that are still used in the region today. By the 18th century, quality started to flag, leading to a special decree restricting the number of grape varieties permitted and marking the beginning of qualitative regulation. By 1774, a list of 14 good varieties for wine production was officially sanctioned. It was this selection that helped secure the quality of the Jura’s wines and further boost their reputation. From the French Revolution until the end of the 19th century, the wine region evolved steadily, with a focus on lowering yields. In the last few decades, Jura has become a beacon for low-intervention winemaking, respect for the environment and sustainability. Over the years, the AOC has updated the specifications for viticulture, making it a requirement for there to be grass around vinefields, and producers often use minimal or no sulfur and no additives. The origins of California wine are rooted in Spanish history. Spanish grapes first arrived in what was then Alta California with the Franciscan padres, including Father Junipero Serra, in the late 1700s. They planted Listán Prieto (aka the Mission grape) throughout Southern and Central California. As Catholics, the Spanish valued grapes and red wine as essential symbols in both their rituals and culture. The padres became known for cultivating drought-tolerant, hedge-pruned vines, and their viticultural techniques and tools were passed down to California’s early grape growers. While the Mission grape fared poorly in the cooler areas around Mission San José and Mission Santa Cruz, it thrived in the warmer regions of the Central Valley and Sonoma. By the mid-19th century, nurseries were propagating vines from across Europe. Italian and Spanish varieties flourished in the state’s warm, Mediterranean climate. The Gold Rush brought waves of immigrants eager to slake their thirst with the oceans of wine produced in Santa Clara, Napa, the Central Valley, and Sonoma. Between 1850 and 1890, wine production ramped up across the state as settlers and viticultural pioneers began importing cuttings. As a result, wineries sprang up throughout the state in the late 19th century. Although the 1970s and 1980s saw a rise in Mediterranean plantings used for quality winemaking, it wasn’t until the 1990s and early 2000s that winemakers and enthusiasts began to rediscover the hidden gems scattered throughout the state. While Spanish varieties are steadily gaining attention, they still make up only a small portion of California’s vineyards compared to classic French grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Cheers, Justin Malesheetz- Wine Buyer Fillmore 2022 Aldinger “Nashorn” Lemberger Region / Country of Origin: Württemberg, DE About the winery: With a history dating back to 1492, the Aldingers were known for generations as coopers and wine-growers. It wasn’t until 1955, when Gerhard Aldinger married Anneliese Pflüger and converted his father-in-law's existing cooperage into a full-scale winery, that the family started focusing on winemaking. The next step towards higher quality wines came in 1974 with the purchase of the nearby Untertürkheimer Gips on the site of a former gypsum mine. Its soils are similar to those found in Alsace, leading to more mineral-driven wines. Under Gert Aldinger's oversight starting in the late 80s, international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot were planted while yields were reduced, which rapidly defined a new, distinctive, and mineral-driven style of wine. The estate’s other prime vineyard is the Fellbacher Lämmler, a cooler site with marl soils. Together with his sons, Hansjörg and Matthias, the house has gained wide acclaim, earning the highest grades from a range of Germany’s most prestigious wine publications. Winemaking Notes: 100% Lemberger (the local name for Blaufränkisch) is hand harvested and partially destemmed before fermentation in barrel for 3 weeks. After Malolactic fermentation is completed, the wine is aged for 4 months in used barrique. The wine is filtered but left unfined. Tasting Notes: Violet in the glass with a heady nose of green pepper, potpourri, fresh raspberry, and dried cranberry. Medium-bodied and dry, with a round creaminess to the palate with firm tannins and bright acidity to match, this wine brings to mind the more structured end of Cru Beaujolais (think the wines of Cote de Brouilly, Morgon, and Moulin-a-Vent) with flavors of dusty red fruit and blackberry with a mineral finish that lingers with a mint tea like note. Winemaker: Matthias Aldinger Price per bottle: $27.99 bt/$302.30l Suggested Food Pairing: smoked ham, roast pork, duck, aged cheddar, venison stew, grilled lamb 2023 Joseph Dorbon “Les Bernardines” Vieilles Vignes Arbois Rouge Region / Country of Origin: Vadans, Arbois, Jura FR About the winemaker: Joseph Dorbon began working as a vigneron in 1996. He works three hectares of vineyards situated in the tiny village (only 300 residents) of Vadans just north of Arbois and across the Route Nationale from the fabled town of Montigny-les-Arsures. The vines are hillside plantings, southeast facing, at approximately 1,000 feet of altitude (322 meters). Dorbon works his vineyards following the best ecological practices and is now on the path towards organic certification. He turns the soil just twice a year, the second time in June with the aid of a horse, a difficult and little-encountered practice which he learned from his uncle—and harvests by hand. Between ploughings, vegetation is largely left to grow between the vineyard rows with the weeding done only underneath and immediately around individual vines. The wines are made with minimal intervention in a subterranean 16th century cellar. After 30 years of making wine, Dorbon officially retired in 2023, passing the domain to his nephew, Pierre Laporte. Winemaking Notes: 75% Poulsard and 25% Pinot Noir from 60-year-old vines grown on a mix of clay and limestone soils in an organically farmed vineyard in Vadans named after the Bernardine order of Cistercian monks who stewarded the land during the Middle Ages. The grapes are destemmed and co-fermented in stainless steel tanks before being moved to 228-liter used Burgundy barrels to age for 18–24 months on their fine lees. Tasting Notes: Pale crimson in the glass with a chalky mineral character framing notes of strawberry, potpourri, and juicy red cherry on the nose. On the lighter side of medium-bodied with light tannins and a softness on the palate balanced by vibrant acidity and concentrated flavors of bright strawberry, cherry hard candy, and a light earthy floral character rounding out the finish. Winemakers: Pierre Laporte Price per bottle: $53.99bt/$583.10csl Suggested Food Pairing: herb stuffing with apples, tuna steaks, baked salmon, carpaccio, cured meats 2023 Orixe Sotelo “En Vaso” Tempranillo Region / Country of Origin: Sonoma, CA USA About the Winemaker: Orixe Sotelo is the passion project of husband and wife team Gustavo and Jackie Sotelo. Originally from Mexico City, Gustavo has spent over 15 years working in such wineries as Etude, Mumm, Bodegas Mauro (the personal project of Mariano Garcia, who had been winemaker at the legendary Vega Sicilia for 30 years), and finally Scribe, where he is the current Director of Winemaking. Jackie, a UC Berkeley graduate with a certificate from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has spent an equal amount of time working on the marketing and sales side of wine with such wineries as Ashes & Diamonds and Bedrock Wine Co. Their focus is on Spanish varietals as they believe these grapes are best suited for the climate of California. About the Winemaking: 100% Tempranillo from Don Miguel Vineyard at Marimar Estate in Sebastopol. Named after Marimar’s late father and former President of Familia Torres of Penedès Miguel Torres, the vineyard was originally planted in the late 1980s with Chardonnay and Pinot the Tempranillo was planted in 2004. This wine is fermented with 50% whole clusters which were foot tread before being added to the destemmed fruit. The wine was fermented for 14 days with multiple pumpovers and punch-downs midway through fermentation to invert the cap and submerge the whole clusters. The free run and pressings were combined, settled for 48 hours after pressing and then racked into neutral 60-gallon barrels. The wine was racked once after malolactic fermentation and aged for a total of 10 months in a barrel prior to bottling. Tasting Notes: Medium ruby in the glass with a deep savory floral nose of potting soil, hibiscus, dried dark flowers, red plum, and luxardo cherries. Full-bodied with vibrant acidity and smooth tannins, this brooding wine is bursting with flavors of cherry liquor, ripe blackberry, mushroom, and graphite with a dry earthy finish. Winemaker: Gustavo Sotelo Price per bottle: $41.99bt/$453.50l Suggested Food Pairing: Pot roast, leaner cuts of beef, beef wellington, stuffed mushrooms
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Red Rogues Q3 2025: Santa Cruz Mountains
Santa Cruz Mountain AVA The Santa Cruz Mountains comprise some of the most important places in California wine history. While Napa and Sonoma are more famous today, this rugged, alpine region, with vineyards planted above the fogline, has long crafted some of the best juice the Golden State can produce. There’s even a plausible alternate timeline where the area takes center stage from the start: Count Agostin Harazthy, often called “the father of California Wine”, planted his original vineyard up there. He broke ground too far north though, and when the cold foggy weather prevented his grapes from fully ripening, he sold the land, relocated to Sonoma and started Buena Vista Winery in the early 1860s. The rest is the history that you can read on the Buena Vista website or visit in their museum. Viticulture in the area dates back to the beginning of the 19th century - the first grapes were planted in Mission Santa Cruz between 1804 and 1807, just east of UC Santa Cruz - but these initial attempts did not yield the best results. The Mission grape, a descendent of the Listan Prieto varietal from La Mancha, now grown mostly in the Canary Islands and South America, turned out harsh, bitter wines in the cool climate. Most of the mountains were not planted to vine until the 1850s, when large swathes of redwood were cut down and farmers moved in, planting vegetables and fruits, with grapes being favored for their ability to adapt to the rugged mountain terrain. The first commercial vineyards were established in 1853 by Scottish immigrant Jon Burns, who named his plot Ben Lomond after an old wine district in Scotland. Along with John and George Jarvis in nearby Scotts Valley, he became a pillar of the county's wine industry, which by 1875 was pumping out 70,000 gallons of wine, mostly derived from the Mission grape, and bottled young so it could be rushed to market. This lack of quality control, along with the global depression triggered by the Panic of 1873, and the spread of Phylloxera throughout Europe and California, led to a global crash of the wine market, forcing many wineries in California and elsewhere to close and uproot vineyards. The mid 1880s saw the rise of multiple figures who would help bring a focus on quality farming and winemaking to the region. Emmet H. Rixford, Professor of Surgery at Stanford University, planted 37 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in Woodside, CA overlooking Redwood City and wrote the seminal guide The Wine Press and the Cellar: A Manual for the Wine-Maker and the Cellar-Man in 1883, detailing techniques used in Europe used to produce high quality wine like Château Margaux. Henry and Nellie Mel were French immigrants who bought one of the properties owned by the Jarvis brothers and planted the state's first Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Dr. John A. Stewart, a Scotsman who came to the area in 1883, replicated the practices of the best French vineyards of the time by blending varietals, something that at this point was a fairly new concept in California. Then there was Paul Masson. Born into a well-heeled winemaking family near Beaune, he moved to California after Phylloxera devastated the French wine industry to work with Charles LeFranc at the Almaden Winery in nearby San Jose. LeFranc himself worked at Almaden and married into the family of founder Etienne Thee and is credited with planting the first cuttings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon in California, brought over from France. Masson married Charles' eldest daughter and became famous for the sparkling “Champagne” made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from vineyards in Saratoga. Wines from the area started to gain international acclaim, winning awards at the World’s Fairs throughout the 1890s and into the early 1900s. Prohibition brought a halt to all of this, with vineyards uprooted (again!) and most wineries were forced to shutter their doors or make sacramental wine. The seeds of the area's history were able to live on thanks largely to the work of a protégée of Paul Masson, the infamous Martin Ray. As the late LA wine writer and educator Roy Brady wrote of Ray, “Martin was a colorful character when California badly needed one. He was a boon to the industry, though many in it would have preferred him to have been a boon elsewhere. He was flamboyant, vocal, outrageous, bombastic, imperious, opinionated, unreasonable.” Indeed, Martin was dogmatic in his quest for quality, keeping yields low and refusing to irrigate in the vineyard; he barrel fermented and aged the wines in oak before bottling unfined and unfiltered; he held bottles back until he believed they were ready for sale. This kind of iconoclasm didn’t endear him to many, but was crucial to achieving his goal of producing world class wine to rival the best of Europe and recall Santa Cruz’s prior fin de siècle apogee. In 1943, having already worked, bought and sold Paul Masson’s vineyard, Ray purchased the first parcel of what would be Mount Eden Vineyards, 2000 ft up above the Santa Clara Valley. There, he planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines from cuttings taken from Masson's La Cresta Vineyard, (which itself had been planted from Burgundian cuttings said to have been taken from Paul Masson’s friend Louis Latour) as well as Cabernet Sauvignon from the La Questa Vineyard originally planted by Emmet Rixford in Woodside. Around the same time period, Dr. William Short bought and revamped a vineyard near the top of Monte Bello Ridge in the 1940s that had originally been planted in 1885. By the late 1940s he had replanted several parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon, which three engineers from the Stanford Research Institute, who had recently purchased the property, used to make the first Ridge “Estate” Cabernet. These efforts set the stage for a renaissance for the region in the 1960’s and 70’s, as new growers and winemakers in the region like Dr. David Bruce and Kathryn Kennedy brought worldwide recognition to the area. In 1976 at the famous ‘Judgement of Paris’, two of the 11 wines chosen to represent California's best were from the Santa Cruz Mountains, and placed 5th (Ridge) and 10th (David Bruce.) Then, at a re-tasting held in 2006, the 1971 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon took the #1 spot. Even with all the acclaim, the AVA remains something of a hermit by California wine standards. Though it covers over 100 miles and 400,000 acres, from Half Moon Bay in the north to the peak of Mount Madonna in the south, only 1,500 of the latter are planted to vine, farmed by just 90 growers and wineries, most of which are 20 or more miles away from each other. (Paso Robles has over 200, by comparison.) Viticulture here continues to be a very high-risk/high reward venture. The challenges, including and on top of the cold weather, are numerous: Irrigation water is very limited or nonexistent; birds (all vineyards must be netted), deer (all vineyards must be fenced) and gophers are ever-present; the ever present risk of fires - the CZU Lightning Complex fire of 2020 destroyed over 86,500 acres of land between Santa Cruz and San Mateo counties; with the skilled labor is hard to find; and disease pressure, particularly downy mildew, powdery mildew and botrytis is ever-present. Historically, grapes ripened in only three out of every ten vintages. The land, being so close to Silicon Valley, is also very expensive, which raises the prices of grapes and winemaking facilities in the region as well. The rewards are (hopefully) self-evident in your glasses this go round, and the result of extremely unique, ‘unicorn’ terroir created by eons of geologic upheaval, that is very much ongoing. The San Andreas Fault in particular, has churned up and exposed marine sediment at the edge of the Pacific Plate which would be otherwise inaccessible. The diverse soils and various micro-climates allow for the growing of Burgundian and Bordeaux varietals alike, and yield elegant and subtle wines, lower in alcohol and with more expressive minerality than the familiar Napa and Sonoma archetypes. These days, both the old guard and the new school are up to awesome things, and we have examples of each here to show why this region - remote and yet so close to home - deserves our respect and attention. Cheers, Justin Malesheetz - Wine Buyer, Fillmore 2021 McHenry Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir “Swan Clone” Region / Country of Origin: Ben Lomond Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Founded in the early 1970s with the goal of planting a vineyard as near as they could get to where UC Davis scientists had discovered an area ideal for growing Pinot Noir, UC Santa Cruz's founding Chancellor, Dean E. McHenry, along with his wife Jane, son Henry, and daughter-in-law Linda planted 4 acres. Linda, a trained viticulturist from UC Davis, tended the vineyard while Henry, a Paleontologist and retired professor at UC Davis, learned winemaking from his colleagues. The vineyard and winery are now run by the third generation with their daughter Annalisa McHenry, a schoolteacher in Oakland, and her partner Brandon Blanchard, along with their cousins Ian McHenry and Henry. About the Vineyard: The former Christmas tree farm sits 5 miles east and 1,800 ft. above the Pacific Ocean in the Santa Cruz Mountains, just north of the small town of Bonny Doon, CA. The dry-farmed vineyard is on a sandy slope, surrounded by redwood forest. About the Winemaking: 100% Pinot Noir from a block planted from cuttings taken from Joseph Swan’s vineyard in the Russian River Valley aged for almost 2 years in 60 gallon French oak. Tasting Notes: Pale dark crimson in the glass with an earthy savory nose swirling with notes of rhubarb, mushroom, wild strawberry, red cherry, and blood orange. The wine is built for the long haul, with a spine of vibrant acidity and grippy tannins and flavors of cherry liquor, cranberry, and long herbaceously floral finish. Decant an hour before drinking. Winemaker: Henry McHenry Price per bottle / Price per case: $40.99 per bottle Suggested Food Pairing: Deep fried turkey, roast chicken, seared tuna 2021 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Zayante Vineyard Syrah Region / Country of Origin: Santa Cruz Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard was founded by Ken Burnap, a Texan with a love of wine who had moved to Southern California and spent his free time traveling around Northern California looking for the best places for Pinot Noir to grow. In 1974, he believed he had found one such place and purchased a vineyard in Santa Cruz County with the goal of making a world-class pinot. For 2 years, he commuted between Orange County and Santa Cruz before pulling up stakes and committing fully to making wine, at first only making Pinot Noir, but eventually expanding to Cabernet Sauvignon and. In 2002, Ken retired and passed the business on to his longtime apprentice and collaborator, Jeff Emery. About the vineyards: Planted at nearly 1200 ft elevation and certified organic, Zayante is a small family owned vineyard that has been producing grapes for over 140 years. For the last 45 years it has been producing Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera and Grenache from own-rooted and dry farmed vines grown on rolling sandstone hills. About the Winemaking: 100% Syrah destemmed and aged for 2 years and 7 months in a combination of new and used French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Tasting Notes: A deep violet in the glass with a rich savory nose evocative of classic Northern Rhone syrah with a nose of candied violets, peppery charcuterie, graphite, fresh potting soil, and eucalyptus. A bright, expressive medium bodied wine on the palate with vibrant acidity and grippy tannins framing waves of dusty black plum and fresh dark berries finishing with a long, richly floral dry finish. Winemaker: Jeff Emery Price per bottle / Price per case: $43.99 per bottle Suggested Food Pairing: Lamb shanks, kabab koobideh 2016 Lexington Wine Co. Gist Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Region / Country of Origin: Santa Cruz Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Originally envisioned by Thomas Fogarty and Michael Martella out of a love for the Bordeaux styled wines made by Ridge and Mount Eden in the 1970s, they knew the land they were working with was too cold to do the varieties justice, but vowed to one day plant a vineyard to the classic Bordeaux grapes. In 2000 Thomas Fogarty Jr. and current winemaker Nathan Kandler accomplished this goal. About the vineyard: Gist Ranch vineyard is located on the Pacific Plate in Santa Cruz County at an elevation of 2,400ft 17 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Planted by the Fogarty family in 2000, the vines are densely planted, decreasing the spacing between vines to make the vines compete for resources which can create smaller more concentrated berries, and utilise organic and sustainable farming practices. Tasting Notes: A deep ruby with aromas of tobacco, truffle, licorice, baking chocolate, and a melange of fresh and dried dark fruit. While the nose prepares you for a dense powerful wine, the palate is surprisingly fresh and lithe, which feels a good deal lighter than its stated 14.5%. Bright acidity with tannins that while softened with age still have a persistence to them are accompanied by flavors of fresh blackberries, black cherry, and plum on a long fresh berry finish. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc. Winemaker: Nathan Kandler Price per bottle / Price per case: $90 per bottle from the winery. Click here and enter the word fogarty to see special pricing Suggested Food Pairing: Steak of any kind, roast duck
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Q3 2024 Red Rogues Club
SOUTH AFRICA The history of South African wine traces back to 1659 when Jan van Riebeeck, the founder and governor, produced the very first bottle in Cape Town. The 18th century marked a significant expansion for their wine industry, particularly with a focus on sweet and fortified wines. Brandy production thrived, driving the need for white grape cultivation and boosting exports. However, the British invasion in 1795 reshaped South Africa's history and its wine landscape, leading to rapid vineyard growth and a flourishing export market, especially to Britain. Yet, as British trade interests shifted toward France, South African wine exports began to decline. The situation worsened with the phylloxera epidemic, which devastated vineyards, and the onset of the Anglo-Boer War, further straining the industry. By the early 20th century, these challenges had left the wine sector struggling, marking a pivotal moment in its development. Apartheid in the country led to international sanctions in the 1960s, further hampering the growth of the wine industry. But it was during this time that some independent producers began improvements in viticulture and winemaking. And when apartheid ended in 1994, the momentum toward quality over quantity was building. The ability to access global markets spurred fresh investments in the country's wine industry. The Wine of Origin (WO) system, established in 1973, comprises approximately 60 appellations that categorize designated production areas into regions, districts, and wards. Wines labeled under WO are required to include grapes solely from their specific region of origin. Furthermore, "Single Vineyard" wines must originate from a defined plot of land no larger than 6 hectares. An "Estate Wine" can be produced from nearby farms if they are cultivated together and the wine is made on-site. A ward is characterized by unique soil types or climatic conditions, paralleling a European appellation in its designation. Wine production is primarily centered in and around Cape Town, largely confined to the Western Cape province, with significant vineyards and production hubs located in Constantia, Paarl, Stellenbosch, and Worcester. The Cape winelands span from the rugged mountains and varied slopes of the coastal region to the open and wild plains of the Klein Karoo, where viticulture primarily takes place in the riverine valleys. Each region has its own unique characteristics and microclimates, allowing winemakers to craft an array of styles, from elegant and cool-climate whites to bold and robust reds. In the Western Cape, which is near the coast, the icy Atlantic Ocean helps moderate temperatures. On the coastal side, where fynbos and renosterveld (‘rhinoceros field’, derived from the historical presence of rhinoceros in these grassy plains) thrive, the annual rainfall measures up to 39 inches. As one travels over the mountains into the wilderness, the rainfall dramatically decreases, and the vegetation is dominated by hardy succulents, cycads, and aloes. South African wine makes up less than half a percent of imported wine in the United States, which is significantly less than other major non-European wine-producing countries, so we thought we’d introduce you to some of the best South Africa has to offer. We have also hyperlinked several South African recipes to try with these delicious wines. Cheers, Carrie Upson- General Manager/Wine Buyer De Toren Z Red Blend 2016 Region / Country of Origin: Stellenbosch, South Africa About the vineyards: The vineyards are situated approximately six miles from False Bay, at altitudes of 655 feet above sea level. The “Z” block, set on a south-facing slope, is exposed to cooling ocean breezes. There are 10 different soil types found on the estate, but the Merlot based Z hails mainly from clay-rich soils of Sterkspruit, Estcourt and Vilafonte. De Toren is Dutch for “the tower.” The name refers to the winery structure which allows for gravity flow winemaking. Winemaking Notes: The grapes were handpicked in the cool, early morning hours and transported in small baskets to the winery, where they were hand sorted and de-stemmed. They were gently crushed and gravity fed into open-top fermentation tanks where regular manual punch downs were performed during fermentation. The wine was basket pressed and gravity fed into 225 liter oak barrels (25% new, 25% second fill, 25% third fill and 25% fourth fill), where it was aged for 12 months in a climatized barrel room (61°F at 80% humidity). Each varietal component was vinified and aged separately in French oak with the exception of Malbec, which was aged in American oak. 54% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 12% Malbec, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot Tasting Notes: You’ll find it tantalizingly soft on the tongue, with a hint of aniseed, liquorice, raspberry and cranberries lending a fresh acidity to its polished finish. This follows through perfectly on the palate, revealing pure juicy red fruit, berries and plum. Complex and vibrant, this expressive red showcases velvety, finely knit tannins…just as one would expect from a Merlot-led blend! Winemaker: Martin Fourie Cellar Master: Charles Williams Price per bottle / Price per case: $52.99 btl/ $572.29 Suggested Food Pairing: Duck pate or pork terrines, Beef carpaccio, Peri Peri Duck, Crispy New Potatoes & Kale, Beef Wellington Maanschijn Herbarium Cape Red 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Walker Bay, South Africa About the winery: Derived from the Dutch term for moonlight, Maanschijn is now an artisanal wine production situated inside a heritage building and below a tall mountain peak. A collaboration between two winemakers, Douglas Mylrea and Paul Hoogwerf, who attended both high school and university together. After studying winemaking in Stellenbosch, they went on their separate journeys, gaining experience in cellars and vineyards around the world. Many vintages passed before a series of fortunate events led their paths to cross, once again. It was at this meeting where they discovered, in each other, a shared passion and philosophy towards their craft, and together, co-founded their young wine company. About the winemaking: The Herbarium Cape Red is primarily Pinotage, with Syrah and Mourvèdre making up the rest. Pinotage is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault and was created in the early 20th century in South Africa. For Herbarium Cape Red, each varietal was fermented with native yeast, and partially in whole bunches before being pressed to neutral French oak. After nine months of aging, the wine was blended and bottled without fining. 42% Pinotage, 38% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre. Minimal Intervention. Tasting Notes: Each varietal shines so well in this wine. The Pinotage yields black cherry and rose petal notes; the Syrah gives a seductive inky purple color, along with violet and peppery tones; and then loads of dried herbs shine from the Mourvèdre. The calling card of Walker Bay shines too, as a beautiful stony and saline minerality comes through in the finish. Winemakers: Douglas Mylrea and Paul Hoogwerf Price per bottle / Price per case: $30.99 btl/ $334.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Heavy stews or red meat dishes, Smoked meats, Potjiekos, Peppercorn rubbed steak with sauteed mushrooms. Scions of Sinai Swanesang Syrah 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Stellenbosch, South Africa About the Winemaker: Bernhard Bredell, a seventh-generation vineyard farmer, is deeply rooted in South Africa’s winemaking heritage. Raised among Sinai Hill’s ancient vines, he carries the legacy of his ancestors who planted the first vines 160 years ago. Bernhard’s commitment to regenerative and dry farming methods, combined with his passion for nurturing the land, reflects in his exceptional wines. His efforts to preserve historic bush vines have earned him a vital role in the South African wine scene, offering a unique taste of Helderberg’s exceptional terroir. His dedication and the allure of this pristine land are truly captivating. About the Winemaking: As with all Scions of Sinai wines, the grapes are hand harvested and immediately brought into the tanks early in the morning. Swanesang undergoes a long natural fermentation in open-top fermenters where 90% of the grapes are left whole-cluster. Fermentation is approached as more of an infusion process than that of extracting, so occasional pump-overs and partial post-fermentation-maceration is carried out before pressing. It is then transferred to large format concrete and older 400L French oak barrels and aged on its fine lees for 11 months. Tasting Notes: Dark as night, explosively aromatic, full-bodied, and with perfectly integrated tannins. Notes of violets, cloves, and cracked peppercorns shine first; then emerges cassis, blueberries, black olives, licorice, and dried fynbos brush. Swanesang is full-bodied, concentrated, rich and velvety. It’s seamless and long—just the complete package in a wine that’s perfectly approachable yet capable of aging effortlessly for two decades or more. Winemaker: Bernhard Bredell Price per bottle / Price per case: $40.99/btl/$442.70 Suggested Food Pairing: Bobotie, Boerewors, Game meats like venison, ostrich, duck, & rabbit, Dark chocolate
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Q4 Red Rogues: The Walls Winery
The Walls Winery Encompassing more than a third of the state, the Columbia Valley is by far Washington’s largest growing region at nearly 11 million acres, 40,000 of which are planted in vineyards. The appellation spans central, south-central, and south-eastern Washington (parts even spill into Oregon); its immense size allows for a wide variety of meso- and micro-climates, with most vineyards planted on predominantly south-facing slopes, increasing solar radiation in summer and promoting air drainage in winter. The Columbia Valley also lies in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mountain range, causing an arid-to-semi-arid continental climate that receives an average of only 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) of precipitation annually. Irrigation is therefore a must - and the need to employ it, along with consistently warm, dry temperatures during the growing season, provides vintners with a large degree of control over grape development compared to many other regions of the world, allowing the best of them to produce remarkably high-quality bottlings pretty consistently. . Cabernet Sauvignon is the most planted grape followed by Merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Syrah, but all told there are 30 vinifera varieties currently planted in the region, across 12 AVAs. Red Mountain, Yakima Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Wahluke Slope, Rattlesnake Hills, Horse Heaven Hills, Snipes Mountain, and Lake Chelan, are among the best known. The Walls Winery, which we are spotlighting for our end of year Red Rogues selection, sources from carefully selected sites in several of them, seeking to create world class wines, with minimal intervention in the cellar to allow for more vintage variation than is the norm, and in so doing showcases the unique characteristics of each. Upon purchasing the facility, owner Mike Martin set right to work upgrading it to be powered as responsibly as possible. Making wine takes a lot of energy — and not just people power! The first thing they did was to invest $200,000 in solar technology, and now the roof of their winery is lined with solar panels which absorb the energy of Walla Walla’s famous sunny days and transform them into power. Consulting winemaker Todd Alexander is a veteran winemaker who cut his teeth and rose in prominence throughout Napa Valley, working on production teams at Plumpjack and CADE wineries before becoming the winemaker for the famous “cult” label Bryant Family Vineyard. Todd moved to Washington in 2014 to become winemaker at Force Majeure and to start his own project called Holocene Wines. His wines have garnered high critical acclaim and he is widely acknowledged as one of the top winemaking talents in the United States. The name itself is also a story: “The Walls” is what the locals call the Washington State Penitentiary, Walla Walla’s least talked about but perhaps most notorious landmark. Since 1886, the “Walls” or “Concrete Mama” has surreptitiously presided over the ebb and flow of this small town, lives frozen inside while outside, growth and progress eddy past. It is also just down the street from where The Walls first wines were made - a jarringly literal reminder of the various roles “walls” - real and metaphorical - play in all our lives. As they themselves put it: “We put up walls to protect our hearts, we toil within the walls of work constraints, we build walls to defend what’s important to us. Nevertheless, as we build walls we’re also always looking for ways we can tear them down. Wine is the river that can overflow, subvert and topple these walls. It is a powerful force in bringing people together and building true community, capturing and preserving memories of time, places and people.” It’s an ethos worth embracing at any moment, but especially this time of year, as we gather to celebrate, reflect and take stock. Thanks for your membership and patronage this year. Cheers and Happy Holidays! The Walls 2018 The Ramparts Red Mountain Region / Country of Origin: Red Mountain, Washington About Red Mountain: The unique soils and microclimates of Red Mountain, coupled with Eastern Washington’s infamous diurnal flux, bear fruits with a true certainty of place. This is typically the warmest growing region in Washington, with daytime averages of 90 degrees and lows dropping below 50. These fluctuations in temperatures promote sugar accumulation with the day’s heat while cool nights conjure balanced acidity. Red varietals dominate on this AVA’s sweltering slopes, and it is well-known for its Rhone varietals, but we also find a particular thrill in the uniquely-suited Spanish and Portuguese fruits it produces. We have a lot of fun in this bright spot and that joy truly shows in the wines we’ve created from it. About the grapes: 47% Mourvèdre, 22% Syrah, 18% Grenache, and 13% Counoise. The Mourvèdre comes from the sandy loamy soils at the bottom of the hill at Red Heaven Vineyard. The Counoise comes from the rockier hillside areas and Grenache from a west-facing slope. Tasting Notes: The 2018 The Ramparts is based on 47% Mourvèdre, 22% Syrah, 18% Grenache, and 13% Counoise, all from Red Mountain. Its deep purple color is followed by a great nose of ripe blueberry and blackberry fruits supported by plenty of peppery herbs, leather, tree bark, and violets. Hitting the palate with full-bodied richness, it's textured and has fine yet significant tannins, good overall acidity and freshness, and a great finish. It needs 2-3 years of bottle age to develop more complexity but will cruise for 10-15 years in cold cellars. It's impressive. - 94 points Winemaker: Todd Alexander Price per bottle / Price per case: $37.99/ $410.29 Suggested Food Pairing: BBQ Portobello Mushroom Short Ribs Venison Rabbit Stew The Walls 2020 Tempranillo, Wonderful Nightmare, Stoney Vine Vineyard Walla Walla Region / Country of Origin: Rocks District, Walla Walla Valley, WA About the Rocks District: Sprouting from heavy cobblestone and fractured basalt, the world-class vineyards of “The Rocks District” have no comparison. Wine Spectator calls this AVA “perhaps America’s most distinctive example of terroir.” 12,000 – 15,000 years ago, massive floods swept through the Pacific Northwest caused by ruptures in the ice dam that held Montana’s glacial Lake Missoula. These floods left behind cobblestone and pebbles made of basalt, forming a 12-square mile alluvial fan of 3,770 acres. The chemistry of this soil is different from that of its surroundings, and the coarse landscape allows for excessive drainage causing vines to cast roots far deeper than in silty soil. The stones heat up during the day, absorbing the sun’s energy and sending it deep into the land. The heat also radiates upwards, warming grape clusters day and night. Our 18-acre Estate vineyard is a perfect example of the geology the area is known for — studded with beautiful basalt cobblestones and bedded in rich soils. It is currently in development, with planting overseen by Napa/Sonoma grape-growing legend, Phil Coturri. Tasting Notes: Coming from Les Collins and Stoney Vine, the all varietal 2020 Tempranillo Wonderful Nightmare saw 70% whole clusters and is still resting in 35% new French oak. It's a great expression of the variety and is medium to full-bodied, structured, yet balanced, with some funky dark fruits as well as notes of iron, tapenade, lavender, and game. I love its balance, it has building tannins, and I suspect short-term cellaring will be the name of the game. - Jeb Dunnuck, 93-95 pts Just out, this engaging single vineyard Tempranillo brings a whiff of the Rocks District funk, a mix of umami and wet underbrush and chamomile tea. It's got a wonderful intensity that carries on through the palate, with wild red berries, grilled meat and a dash of soy sauce. Great balance throughout; this seems like a real step up from the previous vintage. Consulting winemaker: Todd Alexander Price per bottle / Price per case: $50.99/ $550.69 Suggested Food Pairing: Cassoulet Paella Roast Lamb Burgers The Walls 2019 Portuguese Blend, Stanley Groovy, Red Mountain Region / Country of Origin: Red Mountain, Washington About the Winemaking: 28% Touriga Nacional, 18% Syrah, 15% Souzao, 11% Tinta Cao, 8% Merlot, 7% Mourvèdre, 6% Counoise, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Tempranillo Sustainable Tasting Notes: “The 2019 Stanley Groovy is an eclectic blend of 28% Touriga Nacional, 18% Syrah, 15% Souzao, and the rest a mix of Tinta Cao, Merlot, Mourvèdre, Counoise, Cabernet Franc, and a few others. It sports a deep ruby/plum color as well as a juicy, delicious, medium to full-bodied, fruit-loaded style to go with a great nose of red, blue, and black fruits as well as spicy oak, tobacco, and peppery herbs. It’s balanced, has silky tannins, and is just one heck of a delicious red to drink over the coming 4-5 years or more.” 94 points, Jeb Dunnuck No fewer than 10 red grapes are in this blend, including three Portuguese varieties. The risk of such kitchen sink confabulations is that the flavors just blend into generic - kind of like mixing left over paint in the hope of getting something brilliant and ending up with... brown. This is not that. I can't say you can pick out each and every grape, but you can find focus, length and spice, along with compact fruit flavors of blueberry and black cherry. There's a thin vein of dark chocolate also. This is the sort of wine that could spark a most interesting discussion, especially if you pour it for friends and ask them to speculate on what it is. Consulting Winemaker: Todd Alexander Price per bottle / Price per case: $37.99/ $410.29 Suggested Food Pairing: Lamb chops with garlic-mint sauce, Lasagna with meat sauce, BBQ wings, Roasted cauliflower
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Q2 2023 Red Rogues Valpolicella/Ripasso/Amarone
VENETO Wine might not be the first thing you associate with Italy’s Veneto region. That’d likely be Venice, the capital, and one of the most famous places on the planet, endlessly mythologized, celebrated, depicted - in art, literature, photos, film - simulated (the fake version in Vegas), and visited. The city hosts a few million tourists every year, and many don’t venture much further - even though, this being Italy, there’s plenty of other mind blowing stuff nearby. Verona, where Romeo met Juliet, for instance; or Padua, where the Cappella degli Scrovegni houses Giotti’s epochal frescoes. Or the Dolomite Alps and Lake Garda, for breathtaking natural beauty. It’s a lot to take in. But, this being Italy, you’re also not not thinking about wine, and when you get thirsty, there are a lot of choices, because by one specific metric - volume of vino produced per annum - Veneto is the wine capital of Italy. Though 4th largest in population, and only 8th by size, Veneto produces some 8.8 million hectolitres of wine each year, good for 18% of Italy’s and 3% of the entire world’s annual total. White wine constitutes 80% of the output - sparkling Prosecco and still Soave (made from the Garganega grape) mostly, and most of it decent but not terribly memorable. The reds, on the other hand, constitute a conurbation almost as distinctive as Venice itself; 240 square kilometers of indigenous grapes and bespoke production methods in the foothills of the Alps gathered under the letters ‘Valpolicella.’ The word itself dates back to the 12th century, is thought to be a mix of ancient Latin and Greek and means “valley of many cellars,” which remains accurate given that the Valpolicella DOC ranks just behind Chianti in terms of red wine production in Italy. Its rules are a little more complicated though. There are five different tiers/styles of Valpolicella: Classico, Classico Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto. All are blends of the same four local varietals - Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone, and Molinara - which are grown throughout the region (and almost nowhere else); collectively they cover every station of your traditional repast, from aperitivo (Classico) to dolce (Recioto). Winemaking in Valpolicella dates back to at least the times of the ancient Greeks. The local trademark of using dried out grapes (initially on the vine, but today in well-ventilated rooms) was once known as “the Greek style”; today, it is apotheosized in Amarone del Valpolicella, the most iconic regional bottling whose production process is the starting point for every level of Valpolicella juice. Elsewhere in the world, winemakers generally vinify 2.25 pounds of grapes per bottle produced; each bottle of Amarone requires 23 pounds of grapes that must dehydrate into raisins before vinification truly begins. First, the grapes are selected cluster by cluster over a span of time. Multiple passes are made in the vineyard, during which substandard berries are plucked away one at a time. Healthy clusters are laid to rest on wicker shelves in special drying chambers for the next four or five months. During the drying time, or appassimento, each berry shrinks as its water mass evaporates, the sugars concentrate, and the ratio between skins, seed, and pulp is dramatically altered. Only after the drying process is completed are the grapes destemmed, pressed, and fermented into wine. The result is a full-bodied, bold, and age-worthy wine characterized by smoke and clove aromas, dried fruit notes, firm tannins and high alcohol (15-16%). Dried out grapes that don’t go into Amarone are used in the desert wine Recioto (where fermentation stops before all the sugars are converted into alcohol); the skins and seeds left over from Amarone and Recioto vinification is then added to regular Valpolicella Classico for an extended maceration that results in Valpolicella Ripasso (“repassed” in Italian), which functions like a slightly softer Amarone. Valpolicella Classico comes from the finest terroir in the DOC, just northwest of Verona, and consisting of three vertically-running valleys - Fumane, Marano and Negrar. It is light, fruit forward, and does well with a slight chill. The final category, Classico Superiore, requires at least one year of aging, often in oak, and is fuller than regular Classico, sometimes with hints of the vanilla, smoke clove aromas of Amarone and Ripasso. For this quarter’s selections we are featuring a Superiore, a Ripasso, and an Amarone; a great cross section of the fascinating and unique region. There’s a wine here for whatever occasion the next few months might present. Cheers, The PlumpJack Wine Buying Team Fattori Col de la Bastia DOC Valpolicella Superiore Region / Country of Origin: Veneto, Italy About the winemaker: Before taking the helm of his family estate, Antonio studied in Dijon and New Zealand. He gained conviction about how precise vineyard management allows for minimal intervention winemaking. He also realized that high elevation was essential to achieving his vision for elegant, world-class wines—a realization which led to years of re-siting his vineyards to among the highest areas in the appellations. Winemaking Notes: The red grapes in his Valpolicella and Amarone come from Antonio's 12 hectare vineyard called Col de la Bastia, named after the medieval fortresses existing in the area today. The vineyard sits between Val d’Alpone and Val d’Illasi, one of several vine- covered slopes flanked by mountain streams, where shale and clay alternate with limestone. Antonio organically farms his vineyards, all of which are located less than three miles from the winery. 65% Corvina, 15% Corvinone + 10% Rondinella + 10% other varieties fermented in stainless steel vats and aged in oak barrels. Tasting Notes: Fattori Valpolicella is traditional and classic in the Venturini style, with a ruby red color and a bouquet of rose petals, dried cherries and spices without all the oak and fruit that can be found in other Valpolicella. Cranberry, raspberry, cocoa and mint on the palate; zesty and fresh on the finish. Winemaker: Antonio Fattori Price per bottle / Price per case: $22.99 btl Suggested Food Pairing: Thick braised meats, Portobello mushroom burger, Chicken in mole sauce, Bacon-wrapped dates Massimago Marchesa Mariabella Ripasso Superiore della Valpolicella Region / Country of Origin: Ripasso Superiore della Valpolicella DOC, Veneto, Italy About the winemaker: Massimago is derived from the Latin “Maximum Agium” which means the maximum level of well-being. The estate, in the Mezzane Valley in Valpolicella, has been owned by the Cracco family since 1883. In 2003 winemaker Camilla Rossi Chauvenet became the guardian and creator of Massimago. She took over her mother’s vineyards and property and started a winery from scratch. She had studied Agronomy at the University of Padua but in the beginning she had no production facilities and no equipment. Having good land was a blessing but that was no guarantee. At one point, she had to sell the car to afford a tractor. It is only an indomitable will that has brought her to where she is today. In 2008 she turned the property organic and was fully certified by 2014. Today she can proudly look back on the time that has passed because she has become recognized as one of the region's best producers. About the winemaking: Grapes are selected by hand and undergo a prolonged skin maceration in steel tanks. Vinification takes place in steel tanks. After several months, Amarone dried grapes are added to the wine. A second fermentation takes place and the alcohol content rises as does the structure and complexity of the wine. Aging takes place in French barriques and tonneaux for 12 months. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella. Certified Organic Tasting Notes: Color: Bright red ruby Bouquet: Intense notes of fresh cherry, red cherry and red berries. Hints of balsamic, aromatic herbs (thyme, mint). Palate: Red cherries, plum and cloves. Balanced savory and sweet notes with lush, soft tannins. Winemakers: Camilla Rossi Chauvenet Price per bottle / Price per case: $32.99 btl/ Suggested Food Pairing: White meat, poultry, roasted chicken, veal stew, aged cheeses. Spicy asian cuisine, Iranian stews, American BBQ, cured hams, roasted ham, and sausages. Speri Sant'Urbano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2017 Region / Country of Origin: Veneto, Italy About the Winery: The Speri Winery, with a story that begins in the first half of the 1800s, has now entered its seventh generation making wine from about 60 hectares of vineyards in the most select Valpolicella Classica areas. The Winery strength has always been, and still is, a matter of teamwork, today engaging three generations – Carlo, Alberto, Giampaolo, Giampietro, Laura, Chiara, Luca and Giuseppe – that manage all stages of production activities, from the vineyard to the bottle. In 2015, after practicing years of sustainable farming, the Winery achieved organic certification for all of the production. About the Winemaking: The grapes are dried for four months, losing 41% of their initial weight. Maceration takes place in steel tanks for 36 days with periodic pumpovers and délesrage. Completion of the alcoholic and malolactic fermentation occurs in 500 liter oak barrels. The wine is then aged two years in Allier oak tonneaux, then another 18 months in Slovanian barrels followed by one year in bottle. 70% Corvina Veronese, 25% Rondinella, 5% Corvinone. Tasting Notes: A deep garnet red in color, it has an ethereal bouquet of dried fruit. On the palate, it is full-bodied, warm, mouth-filling and dry. A substantial wine of rare elegance that lends itself well to aging. “A fresh, lightly exotic nose, offering dates, figs, fresh earth and a hint of toasted coconut. On the palate there’s a fresh, focused bead of ripe and dried fruit, riding equally intense, firm tannins. Long finish. From organically grown grapes. There’s a youthful feel to this. It’s just at the start of a long life. Give it a year or so to settle in. Best from 2023." 93 Points James Suckling Winemaker: Alberto Speri Price per bottle / Price per case: $68.99/btl Suggested Food Pairing: Excellent with richly flavored main courses based on red meat, such as braised meats and game,and perfect with mature cheeses. It can also be enjoyed on its own at the end of a fine dinner.
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Q3 2022 Red Rogues- All About Spain
All About Spain San Francisco’s hottest nightclub is Spanish Wine (any SNL fans here?). This spot has it all: more vino per year by volume than all but two other countries (Italy and France); more land devoted to wine grape cultivation than any other nation - some 2.4 million acres divided into 60 officially designated wines regions (called DOs) and 138 different wine designations. Old vines, young vines, new vines that are actually old (because re-discovered), liminal vines of indeterminate lineage. Sherry - an utterly unique fortified wine genre that can hang with everything from oysters to ice cream; Cava, like Champagne but cheaper and with Iberian grapes; and Albarino, a world-class salt-frothed white, swimming with stone fruit and sunned by blue sky acidity. (Plus a Tapas +1 for all of them.) Then there’s the reds: out of the aforementioned 60 DO’s, there are only two that receive the highest possible quality classification of DOCa, and both are primarily known for red wine. The first is Rioja, a chunk of north central Spain, bounded by mountains and extending for 90 miles on both sides of the Ebro river. Rioja - the word itself is a portmanteau of "Rio" (River) and "Oja" ( the name of a tributary of the Ebro) - is by far Spain’s best known wine region, synonymous with plush and fruity reds, made from the native Tempranillo and Garnacha varietals, aged in American oak. This style known as Traditional Rioja, is, ironically, a relatively recent innovation. In the 1860s, the twin scourges of phylloxera and mildew sent French vignerons scrambling south to make wine, and most ended up in nearby Rioja, bringing the méthode bordelaise to bear on local soils. At the time, barrel-grade European wood was difficult to come by, and expensive, so the Riojanos turned to America’s vast forests for cheap wood, which imparted to the wine the notes of vanilla, coconut and dill so closely associated with Rioja today. While none of this was a bad thing, the combination proved so popular that it necessitated large industrial scale production of blended grapes, obscuring the incredible breadth and complexity of climates and soils in the region. Fortunately, in the last 40 years, many native winemakers have chosen to focus on small, hyper-local viticulture and reviving older local traditions - not so much rejecting Traditional Rioja, as integrating it into an approach that more accurately records the terroir. Our selection from the region this quarter, comes from one such concern, Bodegas Ostatu, a family winery with deep roots in the region, operating out of Rioja Alavesa, the smallest of Rioja’s three sub-regions, known for higher elevation, relatively cooler weather, and softer, more finessed wines. The other Spanish region with a DOCa classification is Priorat, a tiny, rural appellation in southwestern Catalonia; only two hours from Barcelona, but quite remote. The Estatuto del Vino (wine laws) issued by the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture in 1932 established the region as a place capable of producing world class wines and recognized it as a land to protect. However Priorat, deep in Republican territory, was devastated by the Civil War of the late 1930’s and it wasn’t until 1954 that it was given official DO status, and 2000 when it received the DOCa classification. In any event, Priorat’s steep hillside terrain and intense daytime heat make for difficult growing conditions and extremely low yields. The attraction, for the winemakers who do the hard work and the drinkers who pay the high prices, is the highly distinctive soil composition, known as llicorella. A rocky iron-rich blend of black slate and quartz which reflects sunlight and conserves heat, llicorella imparts to the wines a rich depth of fruit and uniquely concentrated minerality obtainable nowhere else. Garnacha and Carinena (Grenache and Carignan) are the principal red varietals, but Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah are allowed. The best red wines are dominated by Garnacha, or blended with Spanish and French varietals, and subject to varying methods of French barrique treatment. Salmos, the Priorat bottling included here, is a tribute to the monks of the Carthusian Monastery of Scala Dei, who arrived in Priorat in 1095 and introduced winegrowing there. It is a blend of Carinena, Garnacha and Syrah. Famille Serra, the producers, have themselves been making wine in Spain since the 19th century. Outside of the two DOCa’s, there is much else to explore in Spanish Red, including Ribero Del Duero and Toro, two DO’s dedicated to lovely and distinctive variations on Tempranillo. But these days it’s possible the most interesting stuff is coming from Galicia, in the far northwest corner, bordering Portugal to the south, the Atlantic to the north and west and mountain ranges to the east. Home of the aforementioned Albarino, most notably in Rias Baixas, Spain's only exclusively white wine DO, Galicia is the wettest region in the country (the rain in Spain falls mainly…here) but with ample climatic diversity, the weather getting drier as you move inland, with maritime breezes giving way to continental gusts. The primary red grape is Mencia, Spain’s approximate Pinot Noir analogue, but intrepid vitiners all over the region are doing inspired work with obscure and forgotten varietals, unencumbered by strict DO rules. Case in Point: Teimosia (Galician for “perseverance”) a recent partnership between a trio of winemaking veterans in Rosal, a small village within 5 kilometeres of the Atlantic Ocean, technically in Rias Baixas, but unclassified. An extremely small production (less than 1,000 bottles total) it is a blend of the indigenous and new-to-us grapes Caíño Tinto, Castañal and Sousón, and singular: delicate and quite pretty but with intense flavor profiles of stonefruit and spice. Salud! PlumpJack Wine Team Ostatu Valdepedro Vino de Samaniego Rioja Alavesa 2019 Rioja Alavesa, Rioja, Spain About the Winery: Bodegas Ostatu is a family winery located in the heart of the Rioja Alavesa region in the town of Samaniego. The Saenz de Samaniego family has been in the area for many generations. The vineyards, which are protected by the Sierra Cantabria range, are composed of chalk and clay. The average age of the vines is 50 years old. Until recently all the wine was made in the carbonic maceration process with the intent being wines for early consumption. This philosophy recently changed when Hubert de Bouard de Laforest of Chateau Angelus saw the vineyard sites of the family and expressed an interest in collaborating on a special project. He realized that the age of the vines, combined with the unique orientation of the vineyards, could produce dramatically different wines that could compete on the world stage. By changing over from carbonic maceration to traditional fermentation and by reducing yields in the vineyards the wines made a drastic change in style. About the winemaking: After a manual harvest in small baskets, the grapes are destemmed and crushed with a brief pre-fermentation cold-soak and then fermented by native yeasts in stainless steel tanks without added sulfur. The fermentation lasts 14 days at a temperature of 24°C, with occasional gentle pump-overs. The wine is then racked into a large 500L, previously-used French oak foudre for malolactic fermentation, followed by seven months of aging in 1500L concrete eggs. Sulfur is not added during the process. 4000 bottle production. Tasting Notes: Attractive cherry red color, bright, medium depth. Its aromatic variety highlights fresh red fruits such as cherries and wild strawberries, flower petals. Pronounced savory flavors of green olives on the palate. Smooth entry and velvety mouthfeel throughout. Winemaker: Saenz de Samaniego Family $35 bottle/$378 case Suggested Food Pairing: Lamburgers Paella Chili con carne Tapenade with crostini Familia Torres Salmos 2017 DOQ Priorat, Spain About the Winery: Familia Torres founded its first winery in Vilafranca del Penedès in 1870, 150 years ago, but its roots in the winegrowing traditions of Spain date back to the 16th century. Five generations have carried the family business forward, passing on their passion for wine culture from parents to children – a passion steeped in respect for land and tradition, and a firm belief in innovation. Today the family focuses on wines from unique vineyards and historical estates, as well as the recovery of ancestral varieties. Familia Torres has a historical connection to Penedès, Conca de Barberà, Priorat, and Costers del Segre, but now its presence extends to vineyards and wineries in preeminent Spanish wine regions – Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, and Rías Baixas. About the Winemaking: In 2017, temperatures were within normal range throughout the growth season, but showed some variation across the year: the first half was warmer—June was particularly hot—but the ripening period was unusually cool due to lower temperatures in September. In terms of total precipitation, the growth season saw little rainfall, and it is worth noting that the ripening period was especially dry. Shallow soils developed over Carboniferous (Paleozoic) slates that drain swiftly and have a low water holding capacity. It is precisely these soils, located on steep slopes, that give Priorat wines their typicity. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel under controlled temperature for 8-9 days. 12-14 days maceration and 14 months in French oak (20% new.) Tasting Notes: Brilliant ruby red in color with garnet highlights. Astounding rose and black cherry aroma with aromatic herbs such as thyme coming through. Lively and light-bodied on the palate, full of personality, well structured with pleasant tannins and a streak of acidity that promises a long future. Managing Director: Miguel Torres Maczassek $40 bottle/ $432 case Suggested Food Pairing: Petit Basque Cheese Chorizo Pasta with Spinach Steak with Pepper sauce BBQ Pork Ribs Teimosia A Espina 2017 Tomiño, Pontevedra, Galicia About the winery: Teimosía (perseverance in Galician) was born from a collaboration between Martín Crusat (Adega do Vimbio), Dominique Roujou de Boubée (Terroir en Botella), and Joaquín "Quín" Álvarez, historical vinegrower of the Rosal for 50 years. In this small, handcrafted project, their goal and inspiration is to reveal the personality of Rosal reds. The microclimate of this area gives their wines a distinct identity from those produced in the Salnés valley of Rías Baixas and although the vineyard plots are in the Rías Baixas region, the wines are bottled without appellation. About the winemaking: A blend of Caíño Tinto, Castañal and Sousón. Harvested by hand in late September. Spontaneous fermentation, 10 months in new French oak barrels of 228L (31%) and stainless steel tank (69%): Artisanal process, fermentation with native yeasts (pie de Cuba). Tasting Notes: Although not pitch black, it's still quite dark and opaque. It has a very intense nose like concentrated violets with an earthy, oaky touch. Stewed plum and raisin notes with spicy, herbaceous fruit tones are pronounced on the palate, with bold tannin structure and moderate acidity. Very complex with an extremely long finish. Winemaker: Martín Crusat, Dominique Roujou de Boubée & Joaquín "Quín" Álvarez $ 51 bottle/ $550.8 case Suggested Food Pairing: Lamb stew with root vegetables Pork with cumin, lemon and cilantro Roasted Guinea fowl Manchego Cheese
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Q1 2022 Red Rogues- A Visit to Portugal
Portugal is a rare bird in the wine aviary. Roughly the size of the US state of Indiana, the Iberian nation that isn’t Spain occupies the far western edge of the Eurasian landmass and can claim a viticultural lineage as ancient as any of its neighbors. And yet compared to Spain, France or Italy, Portugal’s wines remain relatively obscure and unheralded abroad. Its three most famous oenological products constitute categories all their own; one being a physical product and the other two at opposite ends of the fermented grape juice spectrum. First and foremost is Port, the fortified dessert wine from the Douro region that, at its most rarified, can age for a century and command a six figure price. Then there’s Vinho Verde, as unlike its compatriot as possible, a light and slightly spritzy white, low in alcohol and generally among the most affordable wines on any store’s shelves. In between these extremes, Portuguese wine encompasses approximately 250 grape varietals, native and international, planted across dramatically variegated climates and terroirs. Whatever your favorite wine, there is a Portuguese equivalent that’s a relative bargain. Lastly, there is cork. Cork is one of Portugal’s biggest and most important exports. In fact, Portugal is the largest cork producer in the world and produces more than 50% of the world’s cork supply. The vast majority of this is made into wine bottle stoppers but, increasingly, more and more cork is being sold to the construction and fashion industries and even to the space industry. The best thing about cork, aside from being a good earner for Portugal, is that it’s sustainable. The trees aren’t cut down or damaged when the cork is harvested, and they can be harvested every 9 years for the lifetime of the tree (roughly 270 years). This being Red Rogues, we’re guessing you favor Tinto, so this quarter we’ve got three ideal ambassadors for Portugal’s remarkable red bounty. The first two are grown in the aforementioned Douro Valley, the world’s oldest demarcated wine region, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and a bewitchingly beautiful corner of the world. Centered around the Douro River in northern Portugal, its dramatic mountain and hills are grooved with seemingly endless synchronized rows of terraced vineyards. The poor soils, mostly schist and granite, force the vines to dig deep into the earth for irrigation. The climate is defined by the Marão and Montemuro mountains that surround the area, protecting it from the cold Mediterranean winds and producing the classic continental duo of hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. The Douro is divided into three sub regions; our selections both come from the Douro Superior DOC, which is the hottest and driest of the three. It is also the most inaccessible, which means that many of the wineries in the area are relatively new. (The place itself is ancient: the village of Vila Nova de Foz Côa in the heart of Douro Superior, is home to some of the oldest art in the world - wall paintings dating back to 20,000 BC.) The arid conditions tend to produce full bodied and aromatic reds that do well with a few years of aging. Barão de Vilar Zom’s Colecção 2011, a blend of Touriga Nationcial, Portugal’s most notable red grape, Touriga Franca, which Jancis Robinson has called “The Cabernet Franc to Touriga Nacional’s ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’”, and few other grapes from old Heritage vines, is a great example. Our second selection comes from the Teja Valley area of Douro Superior, which has a cooler climate than the rest of the DOC, and makes for consequently lighter wines. Conceito, meaning “concept”, is a relatively new endeavor, dating back to 2005, from some long standing wine-growers in the area. The grape is Bastardo (known as Trousseau in France) an early ripening and quite unique varietal that produces pale, leafy and slightly spicy reds. The final selection is from the Dão DOC, just south of Douro in north-central Portugal. Encircled by the Sierra de Estrala mountain range, Dão is greener and more verdant than the Douro, featuring large pine and eucalyptus forests that stretch from the Atlantic Coast to the Spanish border. Unlike Douro, vineyards do not dominate the landscape; just 5% of the land in the region is under vine. Dão is known Portugal’s Burgundy, due to local vintners focus on elegance and finesse, rather than power, and the higher natural acidity of the wines. M.O.B.’s Vinha Senna Tinto 2015 is half Touriga Nacional, the primary red grape of the region, and half hodgepodge of other native varietals. The grapes are foot-trodden in the ancient ‘lagar’ style, so named for the cement troughs built for this purpose, and still frequently employed in Portugal. Cheers! The PlumpJack Wine Buying Team 2011 Barão de Vilar Zom Colecção Location: Douro Superior, Douro DOC, Portugal About the Winery: The origins of the van Zeller family refer back to the 13th Century in the Netherlands, where they held several properties, namely, in the village of de Zellaer. During the 17th Century, in the rouse of the religious wars that ravaged the northern and central Europe at that time, the van Zellers migrated to Spain and Portugal, countries where they came to settle. Their connection to the wine business dates back 14 generations from the beginning of the 17th Century. About The Winemaking: After a careful vinification with controlled temperature and maceration, 40% of the wine was matured in new French oak barrels for a period of 18 months and a small parcel aged in stainless steel vats. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and grapes of Old Heritage Vines. Tasting Notes: The ZOM Colecção Red, made from the noble Douro grapes, has a dark, inky red color and reveals its over-ripe red fruit aromas with a unique complexity and scents of wood. This wine finishes with a great elegancy and a memorable taste of stewed fruit, balanced tannins and long finish where you can taste the oak. A little on the savory side, this wine would also be great with cigar. Side Note: You’ll notice the unique bottle shape on this wine. Michelin starred Spanish chef Martin Berasategui has designed a bottle that decants wine sediments and keeps them from rising at the moment of pouring. The ‘Martin Berasategui System’ was conceived by the chef to encourage wineries not to have to filter their wines using harsh industrial methods. using his design he claims that the sediments are allowed to filter in a more ‘natural way’. Winemaker: Álvaro van Zeller Price per bottle/Price per case: $44 btl/ $475.20 case Suggested Food Pairings: Game meats Grilled steak Hard Cheeses 2019 Conceito Bastardo Location: Teja Valley, Douro, Portugal Winemaker’s Notes: Rita Ferreira Marques’s family has been growing grapes in the cool Teja valley, south of the Douro River, for generations, but Conceito was born in 2005 when she produced the family’s 1st commercial vintage. Vineyards are at high elevation or 450-600m and comprised of granitic and schistose soils. Together with Enologist, Manuel Sapage, and Viticulturist, Nuno Fernandes, they produce a stunning array of wines, some of the more traditional Douro set and others that break hard with many of those same traditions. Conceito owns 86 hectares of vineyards. They are all organically managed; with no use of pesticides our herbicides. About the Winemaking: Conceito Bastardo is made from family vineyards, planted about 50 years ago. The variety Bastardo (also known as Trousseau) ripens very early, in fact, much earlier than any other red variety. It was decided to vinify it in “lagar”, by foot treading and the use of native yeasts. Made since 2007, today it simply ages in stainless steel vats. From the first moment, Bastardo was a wine of passions, since its color tricks a distracted eye, which gets surprised by a spicy aroma, and a round, glycerine mouth, which makes it a real pleasure at the table. This wine ages very slowly in bottle, almost showing no change over the years. Tasting Notes: A rare 100% Bastardo wine from old vines, this is a pale cherry red in color, a sign that the grape ripens early. Wonderful sweet aromatics: warm herbs, cherry and red berry fruit. The palate is smooth, warm and sweetly fruited. Light and superbly elegant with lovely cherry and herb and leafy notes, and subtle tannins. The wine is crisp and will be delicious lightly chilled. Winemaker: Rita Ferreira Marques Price per bottle / Price per case: $38 btl/ $410.40 case Suggested Food Pairing: Asian food Tomato based dishes M.O.B. Vinha Senna Tinto 2015 Location: DOC Dão, Portugal Winemaker’s Notes: M.O.B., located in the Serra d'Estrela district of eastern Dão. This daring joint venture is named for the three talented winemakers behind it all: Jorge Moreira of Poeira, Francisco Olazabal from Quinta do Vale Meão, and Jorge Serôdio Borges of Quinta do Passadouro and Wine & Soul. The close-knit trio may have deep roots in the neighboring Douro Valley, but they unite under one desire: to represent the Dão in the truest form. While some winemakers in this region are mimicking a bolder Douro style, M.O.B. aims to craft wines that are intense, yet elegant: a style emblematic of the land. The leading vineyard, Quinta do Corujão, sits at an altitude of 1,640 feet beside Portugal's highest mountain range, Serra da Estrela. The vines in this area are planted in poor granitic soils, forcing their roots to dig deep in search of water and other nutrients. Cool, brisk air graces the vineyards at nightfall, encouraging elevated levels of natural acidity, while the soils impart a refined mineral character to the final wines: a combination that is unmistakably Dão. The trio aims to utilize an organic approach in the vineyards and hone their skills together, as a team, to create wines with true varietal character, unassailable elegance, and a compelling presence that would be difficult to refuse. About the winemaking: This wine is a blend of 50% Touriga Nacional; 30 % Alfrocheiro, 15 % Jaen, 5 % Baga from the granite soils of Quinta do Corujão. The Touriga Nacional is foot trodden in lagar, while the Alfrocheiro, Jaen and Baga are fermented in stainless steel tank at low temperatures with little extraction. Aged for 12 months 30 percent new and 70 percent used French oak barrels, then aged in bottle an additional 6 months. Tasting Notes: This is a wine with a beautiful violet color, very intense aromas of cassis, bergamot orange, and wild flowers. On the palate, it is fresh with soft tannins and pleasant acidity complimented by its velvety texture. A complex wine full of character that will evolve beautifully in the bottle over the coming years. Winemaker: Jorge Moreira, Francisco Olazabal, Jorge Serôdio Borges Price per bottle / Price per case: $40 btl/ $432 case Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled meats Bacalhau à gomes de sá Portuguese Sheep’s Milk Cheese
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Italian Wine Club January 2022
PIEMONTE As many of you know, 2022 brings a major change to the Italian Wine Club - Elio Longobardi, creator and curator of the club, retired at the end of 2021. For the last seven years, Elio brought matchless knowledge and passion to the task of selecting two new and outstanding Italian wines each month. Anyone lucky enough to be assisted by him, try these bottles, or read the beautifully rendered notes Elio wrote each month, understands the immense standard he set and how intimidating it is to follow in his footsteps. While we secretly hoped Elio would be critiquing, correcting and/or veto-ing our club choices from retirement, he has instead been frustratingly supportive. Grazie di Tutto, Elio! Everyone misses you already. The good news is that, while exploring any of Italy’s 20 wine regions, there will always be different and delectable wines to discover. We hope all club members enjoy this month’s selections and as always, we welcome your comments, suggestions, and all the constructive heckling you would like to contribute! Case in point: We are starting the new year in Piemonte, or Piedmont, Italy’s 2nd largest region (after Sicily) and along with Tuscany, arguably the most prestigious for wine. Piemonte is world-renowned for Barolo and Barbaresco, both made from the red Nebbiolo grape, and is also famous for the white varietals Arneis and Gavi. It’s also home to a seemingly endless lineage of less-heralded, but equally fascinating indigenous varietals, such as the white varietal Nascetta and the red, Pelaverga Piccolo, both of which are our first selections of 2022. Originally from Novello, a tiny commune next door to Barolo, Nascetta (nahs-CHET-tah) is the only white varietal native to the Langhe. Popular in 19th century as a sweet wine, Nascetta was decimated by phylloxera, and virtually extinct by the mid-twentieth century, as local vintners focused on higher-yielding grapes like Cortese. With a semi-aromatic nose, and mineral-driven core, Nascetta is protean enough to serve as a rough Italian analogue to Chenin Blanc. It can present as light, herbaceous, and citrus-y, or full-bodied and tropical depending on vinification. It’s highly resistant to oxidation--often still delicious after being open a couple days, far too rare! It’s also age worthy, often taking on petrol, apple and wet wool notes with time. This month’s introduction to the rare Nascetta, hailing from some of the highest vineyards in Langhe, is a grippy, full-bodied take for a great winter white. You will be hearing and tasting more from us about Nascetta! Produced in the northernmost of Barolo’s eleven communes, the mellifluously monikered Pelaverga Piccolo (up there with Cerasuolo in terms of loveliest Italian wine names) is the incredibly rare red grape in Pelaverga Verduno wines. A similarly named yet totally different variety is called Pelaverga Grosso, is grown elsewhere in Piedmont, and used to make a wine called Cari. Like Naschetta, Pelaverga Piccolo, this months Italian red varietal, is thought to date back to the 19th century. It was almost completely extinct by the time Castello di Verduno’s own Gabriella Burlotto made the radical decision to plant a section of the family’s Massara vineyard to the varietal in the 70’s. Although Pelaverga Peccolo has become increasingly popular in the years since, it still exists in miniscule quantities – <20 hectares [50 acres] total in Verduno. Castello di Verduno’s bottling remains arguably the benchmark example, and we are excited to be able to present the 2020 vintage. It features all the varietal hallmarks - bright red ruby color, floral aromas, juicy red fruit and mouthwatering acidity, all ensconced in soft peppercorn spice – these characteristics together make Pelevarga distinctive and wonderfully versatile with food. Additionally, Castello di Verduno’s cuvee is called ‘Basadone’, meaning “little kiss” in local dialect and is a reference to Peleverga Piccolo’s rumored aphrodisiac properties: it could make an excellent Valen-wine! PlumpJack Wine Buying Team PlumpJack Wine & Spirits – Noe Valley Anna Maria Abbona Langhe Nascetta 2019 Region: Langhe, Piemonte About the Winery: Based in Dogliani, the southern-most part of the Langhe region, the Abbona family has been working their vineyards since the 1840’s.In the 1930’s, Anna's great-grandfather bought and cultivated the vineyards as a sharecropper. Soon after, Anna's grandfather took over the land, where an unfortunate blight occurred and forced him to graft the plants. This was the start of their wine company, with the vineyard initially called Maioli. Anna's father joined in his father and grandfather's footsteps during a time of industrialization where many moved towards the city and worked in factories. He chose to stay with the vineyards, eventually buying more land and adding to the property. However, in the following years, the wine was of poor quality, leaving them to sell their grapes to local cooperatives. In 1989 though, things took a turn when Anna's father announced they were going to sell their vineyards. Although Anna and her husband Franco were in different industries, they both took the bold decision of returning to the wine world with the goal of producing high quality wines. Their vineyards are high in altitude and among the steepest in the area, allowing for great exposure for their grape varieties. In more recent years, they have moved to organic farming Currently led by Anna Maria Abbona, the stellar combination of high-altitude sites, old vines and a commitment to farming at low yields puts her estate firmly in Dogliani’s elite. About the Winemaking: 5 - 10 years year old vines. Guyot vine training system. Clay and limestone marl soils 490 to 530 mt. above sea level with western exposure. Hand-harvested, in airy crates in the second half of Septemeber and vinifired in steel without skins at a controlled temperature of 16/18. Organic. Tasting Notes: Deep golden color. Aromas and flavors include green herbs, Meyer lemon, acacia flowers and stone fruit, including apricot; finishes with a honeyed note. Winemakers: Anna Maria Abbona Price per bottle / Price per case $25 $270 Suggested Food Pairing: Garlic butter cod and asparagus Roast chicken Pork shoulder with fennel and polenta Kale salad with pear and almonds . Castello di Verduno Pelaverga ‘Basadone’ 2020 Region Verduno, Piemonte About the Winery: Castello di Verduno is an historic Piemontese estate located in Verduno, the northernmost commune of Barolo. Verduno is a small town and the histories of the wineries located there are intertwined. The Castle of Verduno, constructed in the early 1500’s, was under the jurisdiction of the House of Savoy for much of its history until the Burlotto family purchased it in 1909. The Azienda GB Burlotto had already produced wine since the 1800’s. At the time, the current Burlotto proporietor, Giovanni Batitsta, had three sons: the first received the Castello di Verduno with vineyards (Castello di Verduno label), the second received the family house with vineyards (GB Burlotto label) and the third received a farmhouse and vineyards (Cascina Massara label). More recently, with the marriage of Gabriella Burlotto to Franco Bianco, whose family had vineyards and a winery in Barbaresco, Castello di Verduno gained precious parcels including a prime piece of the Rabaja cru – one of Barbaresco’s most prestigious sites. The winery has a total of 10 hectares – five in Verduno planted to Nebbiolo & Pelaverga and five in Barbaresco planted to Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barbera. Although Franco Bianco and his wife Gabriella are the titular heads of the estate, they have a very talented young winemaker, Mario Andrion, who has run the cellar since 2000. Mario was trained in Italy, but has also worked harvests in Oregon. Franco and Gabriella’s daughter Marcella is increasingly involved in daily operations. The winery’s philosophy is to produce classically styled and sustainable wines, with meticulous organic methods both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Mario uses minimal SO2 and vinifies with indigenous yeast. Their wines are firmly traditional in style yet never rustic--retaining a rare elegance and purity. About the Winemaking: Sourced from vineyards in the Massara and Olmo crus, in the commune of Verduno on white limestone and clay soils. Hand-harvested in the first weeks of September. From four different parcels planted from 1972-2001. Practicing organic.Fermented in stainless steel for about ten days with periodic punching down of the cap.Aged for nine months in stainless steel followed by three months in the bottle before release. Tasting Notes: Aromas of nutmeg and black peppercorn on the nose, juicy black cherry strawberry and cranberry notes, with lip-smacking acidity on the palate, followed by a lingering, dry herb-accented finish. Winemaker Mario Andrion Price per bottle / Price per case $32 $345.6 Suggested Food Pairing: Mushroom Risotto Spiced Chicken Kabobs Penne Arriabiatta Spanikopita Salmon Curry Bagna Cauda (Piedmontese Warm Anchovy & Garlic Sauce) Classic Piedmontese fall and winter shared dining ritual. It literally means “hot bath” because the mixture of garlic and anchovies is traditionally kept warm in a chafing dish or fondue pot. It is served with raw and cooked vegetables (see below for some options) and bread. 6 large heads of garlic, peeled, germ removed, thinly sliced 300 grams salt-packed anchovies red wine to clean and cover the anchovies 600 grams extra virgin olive oil, or a combo of 500 grams extra virgin olive oil, with 100 grams walnut oil; butter, optional, to taste Raw Vegetable options: Sliced red or yellow bell peppers, Belgian endive, Radicchio, Savoy, red, or green cabbage, Radishes, Carrots, Celery, Fennel, Scallions, placed in a glass with some Pelaverga wine in it Cooked vegetable options: Potatoes, boiled, peeled, and sliced; Beets, cooked and sliced; Butternut squash, fried or roasted, and sliced; Onions, roasted whole, then peeled and cut into wedges; Bell peppers, roasted and cut into wide strips; Cauliflower, cooked until tender, yet firm, cut into florets; Other optional accompaniments: Eggs, hard-boiled and cut into wedges; bread; polenta, sliced and baked until browned INSTRUCTIONS Start by cleaning the anchovies. Some use water to clean salted anchovies but many Bagna Cauda recipes insist on cleaning them delicately by hand and in red wine. First, delicately remove the salt and most of the skin with your fingers or a paring knife, pull off the dorsal fin and carefully open the anchovy like a book. Remove the bones and tail. Place the fillets in a dish in a single layer and cover with red wine. In the red wine, you can further remove any salt or bones that remain. When done, dry the anchovies well with a kitchen towel. If doing this in advance, place the prepped anchovies in the refrigerator until ready to use. Once your garlic and anchovies are prepped, you can start cooking the sauce. Add the garlic with about a cup of the oil to your cooking vessel over low heat. Heat slowly and once hot but not frying or browning, add the anchovies and the rest of the oil. Cook, stirring occasionally until the anchovies have dissolved and the garlic is tender enough to smash to a cream with a fork or the back of a wooden spoon. This will take about an hour. Some cook the mixture less, some as much as two hours. If preparing this in terra cotta, it will take longer because earthenware pots take longer to heat up. Make sure that your sauce cooks very gently. It's not supposed to ever fry or brown. Once the sauce is cooked, you can serve it as is or blend with an immersion blender if you want a smooth sauce. At this point, you can add a pat of butter, if you wish. Serve the sauce warm with the raw and cooked vegetables, bread and Piedmontese wine. NOTES This recipe can be scaled easily. Use the following quantities per person: 1 large head of garlic, 50 grams of salt-packed anchovies, 100 ml extra virgin olive oil, 1 pat of butter.
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