Club Corner
Red Rogues Q2 2026: Fielder's Choice
Chances are you’ve seen, read or heard the term “field blend” in relation to wine. On one level, its meaning isn't super difficult to parse: a field blend is wine made from at least a few different grapes that share a common habitat - specifically, a field/vineyard, like it says right there in the name. But what distinguishes such a bottling from others, whether single varietal or non-field blends, can be less clear, even though the distinction carries significant implications w/r/t winemaking philosophy, methodology and, perhaps most importantly, in-the-glass experience. So for this installment of Red Rogues we are offering up two outstanding examples of field blends at work (and play) - and one great non-field combo, for contrast. All come from California, as the Golden State is as refulgent a prism as any through which to view this particular hue-niverse (sorry) of (red) fruited plains. First though, a brief primer on field blends. The vast majority of the blends you drink, including all the most famous (Bordeaux, Cotes du Rhone) are made by taking grapes grown in different varietal-specific vineyard sites, fermenting them separately, and then combining them together to produce the final wine. Field blends on the other hand are a melange, hodgepodge or farrago ( feel free to agglomerate your preferred term) of grapes grown in a single place that are picked and fermented simultaneously. And for most of the history of viticulture, they were very much the norm; until quite recently, farmers had neither the tools nor the time or technology to farm, harvest and vinify grapes from disparate sites. So they planted different grapes for different reasons - some for acidity, some for color, others for ripeness - a method that also provided a kind of insurance against various environmental caprices. If one grape crop was ruined by bad weather, they could use the others, with different ripening schedules, to mitigate the loss. Makes sense. But in our present epoch of scientific and technological surplus, with the focus on precision, rigorous clonal selection and single varietal expressions, what explains the persistence of the field blend? Well, there are some places - Austria w/ its Gemischter Satz heritage Portugal and its countless native varietals - where the methodology is a long-standing tradition, and its resultant products arguably the quintessential expressions of the local terroir. And while it isn’t immediately apparent that California, renowned for Cab Sauv, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, might be among them, field blends span the entire history of California winemaking, and are experiencing a real renaissance of late. This is perhaps most evident in Zinfandel, maybe the California grape and the predominant ingredient of most of the state’s old vine blends. Field blends are by definition composed of older vines that have survived the mono-varietal takeover; the complexity and balance they can offer makes them an attractive proposition despite the intensive labor their cultivation demands, and the vintage-to-vintage consistency they lack, when compared with single grape bottlings. Anyway, this quarter we are spotlighting three of our favorite such concatenations, made with varying degrees of fealty to the field blend ideal. The Mengler Medley Red Blend is as field blend as it gets, composed of 60+ different varietals from the Algeria vineyard in Russian River Valley. The Mora Estate Valpo features 6 grapes all, except for Cab Franc, from the Veneto region of Italy. While they are all from the same vineyard site, they are not all fermented together. The third selection is a blend of mostly Spanish grapes from different vineyards, by the great Enfield label. Cheers, The PlumpJack Wine Team Mengler Medley Red Blend 2022 Region/Country of Origin: Alegria Vineyards, Russian River Valley, Sonoma California About The Winemaker: Mengler Family Wines was founded in 2014 with a focus on producing vineyard designated, unique and exclusive wines for the purpose of creating memorable wine enjoyment experiences. Family and friends do almost all the work throughout the year on this block from pruning, trimming and leafing all the way to harvesting the grapes by hand in the darkness of night. About the Winemaking: The winemaking principle is to use all Sonoma County grapes combined with all American Oak using techniques designed to highlight the characteristics of the varietals. This is a true field blend, composed of 60+ varietals.Tasting Notes: Sweetly floral nose of cranberry and raspberry jam leading to medium bodied palate with notes of coconut, red fruit, raspberries and cherry liqueur. Finish is dry but with lush fruit and floral accents. Winemaker: Chris Mengler Price per bottle: $47.99 Suggested Food Pairing: Red meats, Hearty stews, Grilled Chicken Mora Estate Valpo 2022 Region/Country of Origin: California About the winemaker: Fabiano Ramaci, Winemaker and Chef, has been surrounded by wine his entire life. His love of wine and food began at his family’s restaurant, La Traviata, an iconic San Francisco restaurant and a favorite dining room of the opera stars. Fabiano’s dream has always been to create wines in a method that shares a balance of old world and new world, while maintaining the sophistication and elegance of the wine. He is proud to be the only winemaker in California making wine in the Amarone tradition. About the Winemaking: The varieties are harvested together and the marriage of flavors begins at the inception of the wine. About a third of the fruit is placed on drying racks, which are stacked and left to dry for 120 days. The remaining two-thirds of the fruit is fermented on the skins with the lees from the previous vintage of our Amarone. This method, known as ripasso, or double fermentation, adds more structure, body and flavors to the wine. Tasting Notes: Layered, intriguing aromatics of plum, currant and mixed dark berries merge with baking spices and dusty tannins. The palate hosts an array of bright, spicy flavors that linger on. Queen Anne cherry, pomegranate arils, bright strawberry and traces of rhubarb blend with hints of spice in the long finish. Winemaker: Fabiano Ramaci Price per bottle: $42.99 Suggested Food Pairing: Braised oxtail tortellini with a black truffle sauce, or assorted cheeses with membrillo. Enfield Pretty Horses Red Blend 2022 Region/Country of Origin: California About the Winemaker: Enfield Wine Co. is the family project of John Lockwood and Amy Seese, with a focus on producing wines of personality. They do not subscribe to the ideal of the perfect wine, but to the notion that the very best wines tell a unique story. Driven by soil first and foremost, Enfield Wine Co. seeks out vineyards that possess a distinct and powerful sense of place – across region, grape variety, and vine age. Working only with small vineyards and independent growers, every step of the process is guided by the intent to maximize this character of terroir. Grapes are harvested for balance and the wines are all given the chance to ferment naturally. After surviving a summer job in high school hand-weeding grape vines at a winery in Vermont and studying as an apprentice to a Master Luthier (guitar builder) in Oakland, John Lockwood got his start in the California wine industry in 2004 working up at Heron Lake vineyard with David Mahaffey. He went on to work harvests with Ted Lemon at Littorai, Bodega Melipal in Argentina, and Failla Wines with Ehren Jordan where he worked for 5 years farming and managing the Sonoma Coast and Russian River estate vineyards. He started Enfield Wine Co. in 2010 as small side-project while still working at Failla, and in 2013 took the plunge with Enfield as a full time project.About the Winemaking: The grapes were partially de-stemmed into open top fermenters where the grapes were gently foot tread or punched down no more than once a day during a native yeast fermentation. The wine was aged for 11 months in a combination of 500L and 225L French oak barrels, including 10% new.Tasting Notes: Cacao, black cherry, sassafras, rock salt, star anise, deep umami and a mouth coating finish. Winemaker: John Lockwood Price per bottle: $29.99 Suggested Food Pairing: Paella, Grilled Lamb, or Lasagna
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Q3 2024 Red Rogues Club
SOUTH AFRICA The history of South African wine traces back to 1659 when Jan van Riebeeck, the founder and governor, produced the very first bottle in Cape Town. The 18th century marked a significant expansion for their wine industry, particularly with a focus on sweet and fortified wines. Brandy production thrived, driving the need for white grape cultivation and boosting exports. However, the British invasion in 1795 reshaped South Africa's history and its wine landscape, leading to rapid vineyard growth and a flourishing export market, especially to Britain. Yet, as British trade interests shifted toward France, South African wine exports began to decline. The situation worsened with the phylloxera epidemic, which devastated vineyards, and the onset of the Anglo-Boer War, further straining the industry. By the early 20th century, these challenges had left the wine sector struggling, marking a pivotal moment in its development. Apartheid in the country led to international sanctions in the 1960s, further hampering the growth of the wine industry. But it was during this time that some independent producers began improvements in viticulture and winemaking. And when apartheid ended in 1994, the momentum toward quality over quantity was building. The ability to access global markets spurred fresh investments in the country's wine industry. The Wine of Origin (WO) system, established in 1973, comprises approximately 60 appellations that categorize designated production areas into regions, districts, and wards. Wines labeled under WO are required to include grapes solely from their specific region of origin. Furthermore, "Single Vineyard" wines must originate from a defined plot of land no larger than 6 hectares. An "Estate Wine" can be produced from nearby farms if they are cultivated together and the wine is made on-site. A ward is characterized by unique soil types or climatic conditions, paralleling a European appellation in its designation. Wine production is primarily centered in and around Cape Town, largely confined to the Western Cape province, with significant vineyards and production hubs located in Constantia, Paarl, Stellenbosch, and Worcester. The Cape winelands span from the rugged mountains and varied slopes of the coastal region to the open and wild plains of the Klein Karoo, where viticulture primarily takes place in the riverine valleys. Each region has its own unique characteristics and microclimates, allowing winemakers to craft an array of styles, from elegant and cool-climate whites to bold and robust reds. In the Western Cape, which is near the coast, the icy Atlantic Ocean helps moderate temperatures. On the coastal side, where fynbos and renosterveld (‘rhinoceros field’, derived from the historical presence of rhinoceros in these grassy plains) thrive, the annual rainfall measures up to 39 inches. As one travels over the mountains into the wilderness, the rainfall dramatically decreases, and the vegetation is dominated by hardy succulents, cycads, and aloes. South African wine makes up less than half a percent of imported wine in the United States, which is significantly less than other major non-European wine-producing countries, so we thought we’d introduce you to some of the best South Africa has to offer. We have also hyperlinked several South African recipes to try with these delicious wines. Cheers, Carrie Upson- General Manager/Wine Buyer De Toren Z Red Blend 2016 Region / Country of Origin: Stellenbosch, South Africa About the vineyards: The vineyards are situated approximately six miles from False Bay, at altitudes of 655 feet above sea level. The “Z” block, set on a south-facing slope, is exposed to cooling ocean breezes. There are 10 different soil types found on the estate, but the Merlot based Z hails mainly from clay-rich soils of Sterkspruit, Estcourt and Vilafonte. De Toren is Dutch for “the tower.” The name refers to the winery structure which allows for gravity flow winemaking. Winemaking Notes: The grapes were handpicked in the cool, early morning hours and transported in small baskets to the winery, where they were hand sorted and de-stemmed. They were gently crushed and gravity fed into open-top fermentation tanks where regular manual punch downs were performed during fermentation. The wine was basket pressed and gravity fed into 225 liter oak barrels (25% new, 25% second fill, 25% third fill and 25% fourth fill), where it was aged for 12 months in a climatized barrel room (61°F at 80% humidity). Each varietal component was vinified and aged separately in French oak with the exception of Malbec, which was aged in American oak. 54% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 12% Malbec, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot Tasting Notes: You’ll find it tantalizingly soft on the tongue, with a hint of aniseed, liquorice, raspberry and cranberries lending a fresh acidity to its polished finish. This follows through perfectly on the palate, revealing pure juicy red fruit, berries and plum. Complex and vibrant, this expressive red showcases velvety, finely knit tannins…just as one would expect from a Merlot-led blend! Winemaker: Martin Fourie Cellar Master: Charles Williams Price per bottle / Price per case: $52.99 btl/ $572.29 Suggested Food Pairing: Duck pate or pork terrines, Beef carpaccio, Peri Peri Duck, Crispy New Potatoes & Kale, Beef Wellington Maanschijn Herbarium Cape Red 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Walker Bay, South Africa About the winery: Derived from the Dutch term for moonlight, Maanschijn is now an artisanal wine production situated inside a heritage building and below a tall mountain peak. A collaboration between two winemakers, Douglas Mylrea and Paul Hoogwerf, who attended both high school and university together. After studying winemaking in Stellenbosch, they went on their separate journeys, gaining experience in cellars and vineyards around the world. Many vintages passed before a series of fortunate events led their paths to cross, once again. It was at this meeting where they discovered, in each other, a shared passion and philosophy towards their craft, and together, co-founded their young wine company. About the winemaking: The Herbarium Cape Red is primarily Pinotage, with Syrah and Mourvèdre making up the rest. Pinotage is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault and was created in the early 20th century in South Africa. For Herbarium Cape Red, each varietal was fermented with native yeast, and partially in whole bunches before being pressed to neutral French oak. After nine months of aging, the wine was blended and bottled without fining. 42% Pinotage, 38% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre. Minimal Intervention. Tasting Notes: Each varietal shines so well in this wine. The Pinotage yields black cherry and rose petal notes; the Syrah gives a seductive inky purple color, along with violet and peppery tones; and then loads of dried herbs shine from the Mourvèdre. The calling card of Walker Bay shines too, as a beautiful stony and saline minerality comes through in the finish. Winemakers: Douglas Mylrea and Paul Hoogwerf Price per bottle / Price per case: $30.99 btl/ $334.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Heavy stews or red meat dishes, Smoked meats, Potjiekos, Peppercorn rubbed steak with sauteed mushrooms. Scions of Sinai Swanesang Syrah 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Stellenbosch, South Africa About the Winemaker: Bernhard Bredell, a seventh-generation vineyard farmer, is deeply rooted in South Africa’s winemaking heritage. Raised among Sinai Hill’s ancient vines, he carries the legacy of his ancestors who planted the first vines 160 years ago. Bernhard’s commitment to regenerative and dry farming methods, combined with his passion for nurturing the land, reflects in his exceptional wines. His efforts to preserve historic bush vines have earned him a vital role in the South African wine scene, offering a unique taste of Helderberg’s exceptional terroir. His dedication and the allure of this pristine land are truly captivating. About the Winemaking: As with all Scions of Sinai wines, the grapes are hand harvested and immediately brought into the tanks early in the morning. Swanesang undergoes a long natural fermentation in open-top fermenters where 90% of the grapes are left whole-cluster. Fermentation is approached as more of an infusion process than that of extracting, so occasional pump-overs and partial post-fermentation-maceration is carried out before pressing. It is then transferred to large format concrete and older 400L French oak barrels and aged on its fine lees for 11 months. Tasting Notes: Dark as night, explosively aromatic, full-bodied, and with perfectly integrated tannins. Notes of violets, cloves, and cracked peppercorns shine first; then emerges cassis, blueberries, black olives, licorice, and dried fynbos brush. Swanesang is full-bodied, concentrated, rich and velvety. It’s seamless and long—just the complete package in a wine that’s perfectly approachable yet capable of aging effortlessly for two decades or more. Winemaker: Bernhard Bredell Price per bottle / Price per case: $40.99/btl/$442.70 Suggested Food Pairing: Bobotie, Boerewors, Game meats like venison, ostrich, duck, & rabbit, Dark chocolate
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Q4 Red Rogues: The Walls Winery
The Walls Winery Encompassing more than a third of the state, the Columbia Valley is by far Washington’s largest growing region at nearly 11 million acres, 40,000 of which are planted in vineyards. The appellation spans central, south-central, and south-eastern Washington (parts even spill into Oregon); its immense size allows for a wide variety of meso- and micro-climates, with most vineyards planted on predominantly south-facing slopes, increasing solar radiation in summer and promoting air drainage in winter. The Columbia Valley also lies in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mountain range, causing an arid-to-semi-arid continental climate that receives an average of only 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) of precipitation annually. Irrigation is therefore a must - and the need to employ it, along with consistently warm, dry temperatures during the growing season, provides vintners with a large degree of control over grape development compared to many other regions of the world, allowing the best of them to produce remarkably high-quality bottlings pretty consistently. . Cabernet Sauvignon is the most planted grape followed by Merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Syrah, but all told there are 30 vinifera varieties currently planted in the region, across 12 AVAs. Red Mountain, Yakima Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Wahluke Slope, Rattlesnake Hills, Horse Heaven Hills, Snipes Mountain, and Lake Chelan, are among the best known. The Walls Winery, which we are spotlighting for our end of year Red Rogues selection, sources from carefully selected sites in several of them, seeking to create world class wines, with minimal intervention in the cellar to allow for more vintage variation than is the norm, and in so doing showcases the unique characteristics of each. Upon purchasing the facility, owner Mike Martin set right to work upgrading it to be powered as responsibly as possible. Making wine takes a lot of energy — and not just people power! The first thing they did was to invest $200,000 in solar technology, and now the roof of their winery is lined with solar panels which absorb the energy of Walla Walla’s famous sunny days and transform them into power. Consulting winemaker Todd Alexander is a veteran winemaker who cut his teeth and rose in prominence throughout Napa Valley, working on production teams at Plumpjack and CADE wineries before becoming the winemaker for the famous “cult” label Bryant Family Vineyard. Todd moved to Washington in 2014 to become winemaker at Force Majeure and to start his own project called Holocene Wines. His wines have garnered high critical acclaim and he is widely acknowledged as one of the top winemaking talents in the United States. The name itself is also a story: “The Walls” is what the locals call the Washington State Penitentiary, Walla Walla’s least talked about but perhaps most notorious landmark. Since 1886, the “Walls” or “Concrete Mama” has surreptitiously presided over the ebb and flow of this small town, lives frozen inside while outside, growth and progress eddy past. It is also just down the street from where The Walls first wines were made - a jarringly literal reminder of the various roles “walls” - real and metaphorical - play in all our lives. As they themselves put it: “We put up walls to protect our hearts, we toil within the walls of work constraints, we build walls to defend what’s important to us. Nevertheless, as we build walls we’re also always looking for ways we can tear them down. Wine is the river that can overflow, subvert and topple these walls. It is a powerful force in bringing people together and building true community, capturing and preserving memories of time, places and people.” It’s an ethos worth embracing at any moment, but especially this time of year, as we gather to celebrate, reflect and take stock. Thanks for your membership and patronage this year. Cheers and Happy Holidays! The Walls 2018 The Ramparts Red Mountain Region / Country of Origin: Red Mountain, Washington About Red Mountain: The unique soils and microclimates of Red Mountain, coupled with Eastern Washington’s infamous diurnal flux, bear fruits with a true certainty of place. This is typically the warmest growing region in Washington, with daytime averages of 90 degrees and lows dropping below 50. These fluctuations in temperatures promote sugar accumulation with the day’s heat while cool nights conjure balanced acidity. Red varietals dominate on this AVA’s sweltering slopes, and it is well-known for its Rhone varietals, but we also find a particular thrill in the uniquely-suited Spanish and Portuguese fruits it produces. We have a lot of fun in this bright spot and that joy truly shows in the wines we’ve created from it. About the grapes: 47% Mourvèdre, 22% Syrah, 18% Grenache, and 13% Counoise. The Mourvèdre comes from the sandy loamy soils at the bottom of the hill at Red Heaven Vineyard. The Counoise comes from the rockier hillside areas and Grenache from a west-facing slope. Tasting Notes: The 2018 The Ramparts is based on 47% Mourvèdre, 22% Syrah, 18% Grenache, and 13% Counoise, all from Red Mountain. Its deep purple color is followed by a great nose of ripe blueberry and blackberry fruits supported by plenty of peppery herbs, leather, tree bark, and violets. Hitting the palate with full-bodied richness, it's textured and has fine yet significant tannins, good overall acidity and freshness, and a great finish. It needs 2-3 years of bottle age to develop more complexity but will cruise for 10-15 years in cold cellars. It's impressive. - 94 points Winemaker: Todd Alexander Price per bottle / Price per case: $37.99/ $410.29 Suggested Food Pairing: BBQ Portobello Mushroom Short Ribs Venison Rabbit Stew The Walls 2020 Tempranillo, Wonderful Nightmare, Stoney Vine Vineyard Walla Walla Region / Country of Origin: Rocks District, Walla Walla Valley, WA About the Rocks District: Sprouting from heavy cobblestone and fractured basalt, the world-class vineyards of “The Rocks District” have no comparison. Wine Spectator calls this AVA “perhaps America’s most distinctive example of terroir.” 12,000 – 15,000 years ago, massive floods swept through the Pacific Northwest caused by ruptures in the ice dam that held Montana’s glacial Lake Missoula. These floods left behind cobblestone and pebbles made of basalt, forming a 12-square mile alluvial fan of 3,770 acres. The chemistry of this soil is different from that of its surroundings, and the coarse landscape allows for excessive drainage causing vines to cast roots far deeper than in silty soil. The stones heat up during the day, absorbing the sun’s energy and sending it deep into the land. The heat also radiates upwards, warming grape clusters day and night. Our 18-acre Estate vineyard is a perfect example of the geology the area is known for — studded with beautiful basalt cobblestones and bedded in rich soils. It is currently in development, with planting overseen by Napa/Sonoma grape-growing legend, Phil Coturri. Tasting Notes: Coming from Les Collins and Stoney Vine, the all varietal 2020 Tempranillo Wonderful Nightmare saw 70% whole clusters and is still resting in 35% new French oak. It's a great expression of the variety and is medium to full-bodied, structured, yet balanced, with some funky dark fruits as well as notes of iron, tapenade, lavender, and game. I love its balance, it has building tannins, and I suspect short-term cellaring will be the name of the game. - Jeb Dunnuck, 93-95 pts Just out, this engaging single vineyard Tempranillo brings a whiff of the Rocks District funk, a mix of umami and wet underbrush and chamomile tea. It's got a wonderful intensity that carries on through the palate, with wild red berries, grilled meat and a dash of soy sauce. Great balance throughout; this seems like a real step up from the previous vintage. Consulting winemaker: Todd Alexander Price per bottle / Price per case: $50.99/ $550.69 Suggested Food Pairing: Cassoulet Paella Roast Lamb Burgers The Walls 2019 Portuguese Blend, Stanley Groovy, Red Mountain Region / Country of Origin: Red Mountain, Washington About the Winemaking: 28% Touriga Nacional, 18% Syrah, 15% Souzao, 11% Tinta Cao, 8% Merlot, 7% Mourvèdre, 6% Counoise, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Tempranillo Sustainable Tasting Notes: “The 2019 Stanley Groovy is an eclectic blend of 28% Touriga Nacional, 18% Syrah, 15% Souzao, and the rest a mix of Tinta Cao, Merlot, Mourvèdre, Counoise, Cabernet Franc, and a few others. It sports a deep ruby/plum color as well as a juicy, delicious, medium to full-bodied, fruit-loaded style to go with a great nose of red, blue, and black fruits as well as spicy oak, tobacco, and peppery herbs. It’s balanced, has silky tannins, and is just one heck of a delicious red to drink over the coming 4-5 years or more.” 94 points, Jeb Dunnuck No fewer than 10 red grapes are in this blend, including three Portuguese varieties. The risk of such kitchen sink confabulations is that the flavors just blend into generic - kind of like mixing left over paint in the hope of getting something brilliant and ending up with... brown. This is not that. I can't say you can pick out each and every grape, but you can find focus, length and spice, along with compact fruit flavors of blueberry and black cherry. There's a thin vein of dark chocolate also. This is the sort of wine that could spark a most interesting discussion, especially if you pour it for friends and ask them to speculate on what it is. Consulting Winemaker: Todd Alexander Price per bottle / Price per case: $37.99/ $410.29 Suggested Food Pairing: Lamb chops with garlic-mint sauce, Lasagna with meat sauce, BBQ wings, Roasted cauliflower
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October '23 Wine of the Month Club
LIOCO WINE CO. We have found your Thanksgiving wines! After tasting the LIOCO line up, we realized we should jump on these wines in October, so that y’all can pick them up BEFORE Thanksgiving, or try them now and buy more for the holidays. This crisp chardonnay will cut through richness of gravy and mashed potatoes and compliment all the herbs on your plate, while the red is light bodied, chillable, fruity and is the perfect blend to pair with your turkey, stuffing, and cranberry sauce. LIOCO was conceived in the alley behind Spago Beverly Hills by wine director Kevin O’Connor and wine salesman Matt Licklider. The two colleagues, critical of the heavy-handed wines of the day, wondered if it were possible to make some local wines that favored nuance over sheer power. In 2005, relying on nothing more than their palates and their rolodexes, the two embarked on a winemaking odyssey. Europe was their inspiration, as were the more restrained California wines of the 1980’s. Their winemaking philosophy is to “trust in the raw material and get out of the way. If the fruit is well-grown and comes from a compelling site, there is no way to improve upon it. Our job is simply to usher it through the process of fermentation and into the bottle with as little intervention as possible.” This has been their approach since Day 1, despite the real incentives to conform to a more commercial style. The focus is on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Carignan from sites with older vines, interesting soils, and heritage clones. Sometimes the hunt for Pinot Noir uncovers other treasures like a coastal Syrah vineyard or a rare, mid-century planting of Valdigue. Today the winery is owned and operated by the Licklider family. Husband/wife duo Matt and Sara Licklider and their small team produce the wines at a state of the art winemaking co-operative in Santa Rosa. All of the fruit is sourced from exceptional vineyards spanning 400 miles and five counties (Sonoma, Mendocino, Santa Cruz, Santa Barbara, and Yolo). In 2018, they brought winemaker Drew Huffine into their family. While earning his PhD in modern poetry in Mississippi, he met winemaker Eric Kent during an in-store tasting at the shop Huffine was working at, and Kent offhandedly suggested that he defer for a year and come work with him as a harvest intern. After thinking about it for a day or two, he called Kent, asking him, "Were you serious, can I come work for you?" He had no memory of the conversation, but nonetheless, Huffine wiggled his way into a job. From there he worked with anyone he thought could teach him about vineyard to bottle winemaking, which included stints at Auteur, DuMol, Donom, Kosta Browne, and Copain, which really changed his whole approach to wine and winemaking. Cheers, PlumpJack Wine Team LIOCO Sonoma County “SoCo” Chardonnay Region / Country of Origin: Sonoma, California About the Vineyards: This wine is composed of several vineyards, all in the cooler, more western regions of Sonoma County. While each site is distinct, they share a common commitment to sustainable horticulture and strident farming. Our intention for this wine is to express the unique character of this region. Warm days and cool nights, tempered by consistent oceanic fog, yield nuanced Chardonnays balanced by brisk acidity. About the winemaking: Five sites were harvested in the first 2 weeks of September; fruit was hand-harvested, and foot-tread before being pressed. A majority of the juice was fermented in stainless steel tanks, and the balance in neutral oak puncheons, where they remained (with no battonage) for 6 months before racking. A gentle cross-flow filtration was performed prior to bottling. Tasting Notes: The early-picked fruit had brilliant chemistry, as drought vintage fruit often does, and deeply concentrated flavors. Since 2019 they have been declassifying barrels of Chardonnay from top tier LIOCO cuvees into this wine. SoCo will always be defined by its mouth watering, steely freshness ala the Louis Michel Chablis that inspired it, but the barrel fermented additions have added complexity and mouth feel without any trace of oakiness. Aromas of tangerine oil, fresh fennel frond, shale are followed by lemon custard, river stone, and fresh thyme on the palate. Winemaker: Drew Huffine Price: $27.99 btl/$302.29 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Roasted Turkey, Creamy mashed potatoes, cauliflower gratin, chicken paillard, fried fish sandwich. LIOCO Indica Red Table Wine Region / Country of Origin: Mendocino County, California About the Vineyards: Composed from three historic Mendocino County ranches—two on the valley floor, one at high elevation—all with heritage dry-farmed, head-trained Carignan + Valdiguie vines. Soils range from red clay (valley) to hard scrabble rocky (mountain). These rapidly vanishing California grapes harken back to the Golden State's earliest winemaking efforts. About the winemaking: Vintage 2022 marks a return to original form for Indica Red Table Wine—a LIOCO stalwart since 2006. The wildfires in 2020 necessitated a shift in fruit sourcing, and the extreme drought / massive winter frost of 2021 left them with too little fruit to bottle an Indica. In the winter of 2022, they expanded their grape contract at Bartolomei Vineyard and secured the future of this wine. The 2022 is a blend from three historic Mendocino ranches—some dry-farmed, old vine Carignan from Bartolomei (Talmage) and McCutchen (Pine Mountain), plus a healthy dollop of rare Valdiguie from Lolonis (Redwood Valley). The exceptional fruit quality and small clusters characteristic of the vintage enticed us to do 75% whole cluster, with two tanks going through carbonic maceration. All fruit was hand-harvested in mid-Sept./early Oct. Fermented in a mix of open-top tanks (whole cluster), closed tanks (carbonic), and T-bins (submerged cap). Once pressed, all lots were aged separately in a mixture of barrels and stainless steel for 10-mos. Bottled unfined/unfiltered. Tasting Notes: The juice was pressed off the tannic skins early and "went to barrel sweet" to highlight the crunchy freshness of this wine. The result is chillable, medium weight red that reminds us of Cote de Brouilly, but is unabashedly Californian. With aromas of black plum, mulberry, wild sage, the palate shows flavors of bing cherry, violet, and rosemary. Winemaker: Drew Huffine Price: $23.99 btl/$259.10 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Turkey with cranberry sauce, sausage stuffing, pulled pork sandwich, street tacos.
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