Club Corner
Italian Wine Club February 2026: Piemonte
French historian Jules Michelet used to begin his lectures on British history, with the seemingly unnecessary proclamation, “Messieurs, l’Angleterre est une ile.” “You guys, England is an island.” Obvious certainly, but it sure clarifies all that is to follow. There is, after all, an important difference between “simply knowing that Britain is an island” and “whether we interpret its history in the light of that fact, which thus takes on a significance of its own.”* Take this tack with Italy/Italian wine, and we might lead with: Italy is mostly uphill. The fact that it occupies a peninsula (Appenine) named for the mountain range that traverses it, is probably the biggest clue, but if (like me) you haven’t spent much time there you might be surprised to learn that fully 75% of Italy is hills and mountains. It is a geographical characteristic that has had a dramatic effect on pretty much every aspect of its development, cuisine and wine included. For centuries, getting from one town to another was a huge hassle, and as a result, products grown successfully in one valley might never make it to the valley next door. So even though both wines we are featuring this month technically come from Piedmont, the northeastern region famed for its Barbaresco and Barolo, they each very much occupy their own altitude, offering singular vistas that warrant a separate summit. To the funicular! Indeed, Piedmont actually means “at the foot of the mountain” in Italian. It’s surrounded on three sides by the Alps, including the Monte Rosa, and the Monviso, where the Po River rises. The region borders France, Switzerland, and the Italian regions of Lombardy, Liguria, Emilia-Romagna and Val d’Aosta, and encompasses 8 provinces: Turin, Alessandria, Asti, Biella, Cuneo, Novara, Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, and Vercelli. Located in the southeastern part of Piedmont, in the Alessandria province bordering Lombardy, Colli Tortenesi is mostly hills and valleys as it rises from the Po River plains to heights of 1,700 meters in the Apennines. The climate is humid, influenced positively by the Ligurian sea and receives the lowest rainfall in the region, with a considerable temperature range throughout the day, which contributes to the intense aromatics of the wine. Located in the southeastern part Piedmont, adjacent to Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy, Colli Tortenesi was founded by the Ligurians, before becoming a Roman colony called Derthona in 148 BCE, the first such outpost under imperial rule west of the Po River Valley. The area has a transitional topography of hills and valleys as it rises from the plains of the Po River to heights of 1,700 meters in the Apennines, all of which contribute to the diversity of soil and climate. Much of the soil, formed during the Tortonian age, between 5 and 15 million years ago, is a mix of calcareous clay, with ancient marine deposits, limestone and a surface layer of sand. The climate is humid, influenced positively by the Ligurian sea and receives the lowest rainfall in the region, with a considerable temperature range throughout the day, which contributes to the intense aromatics of the wine. It has historically been known for the red grape Barbera, which is grown in many other places in Northern Italy (see below), but today its calling card is arguably Timorasso, a highly distinctive white grape and Colli Tortenesi’s only autochthonous varietal. On the verge of extinction as recently as 1987, a local winemaker Walter Massa began acting on his hunch that some of the family vineyards were better suited to growing white grapes. The (eventual) result has been a Timorasso renaissance as others have discovered that this thick and waxy skinned varietal produces age-worthy and distinguished white wine, boasting floral notes, bright acidity and orchard fruit flavors in its youth, and capable of developing petrol, almond and honeyed characteristics as it matures. Timorasso has been alternately likened to Chablis, Riesling and Chenin Blanc which is proof enough of its uniqueness. La Colombera’s version, which we are featuring this month, is excellent. The red hails from Alba, in the Cuneo province, in the South west corner of Piedmont. It is made from the aforementioned Barbera grape, which is believed to be native to Italy, though its origins are obscure enough that it is difficult to be certain. In any event, Barbera is today one of Italy’s most widely planted red varietals, prized for its ability to shine in all kinds of contexts, from a reliable single varietal table red (it is known as the “people’s wine” in Piedmont) to a sympathetic blending partner to a sparkling version known as Verbesco. This ubiquity is probably why we’ve never featured a single varietal Barbera in IWC before; it's an easy grape to take for granted. But having sampled the new vintage from Oddero, one of my favorite Piemont producers, recently, I was struck anew with all the qualities that make Barbera such a popular dinner guest. At its best, which this bottling is, Barbera is conversant with most social and/or culinary lingua franca - and comfortable enough in its own skin not to try too hard to prove it. You rarely encounter a less needy wine, in other words - and sometimes that demands recognition. Salud, Alan Hicks- Wine Buyer PlumpJack Wine & Spirits Noe Valley *(Appropriating this story from Leszek Kolakowski’s Main Currents of Marxism where he uses it to explain starting his tome with the similarly dome-cracking: “Karl Marx was a German philosopher.”) Le Colombera Timorasso 2024 Region: Collo Tortonesi, Piedmont Italy About the Winery: Based in the village of Vho on the outskirts of Tortona, or Derthona as the Romans called it, La Colombera is a third generation, 22 ha property planted most notably with the indigenous white wine grape Timorasso; all within a mile of the winery. In 1961 Renato Semino planted the first of La Colombera’s vineyards: Vigna Brusa. During the 1970s, Renato’s son, Piercarlo began working the vineyards and decided in the 1980s to begin making wine himself, rather than sell off the fruit, building a small winery in 1996. Then, in 1997, with the outbreak of flavescenza dorata that decimated their largely rented vineyards, they were encouraged to plant the varietal that would become their passion, Timorasso, for the first time. Over the next two years, the Semino family took a leap of faith, purchasing their vineyards and building a new commercial winery. In 2000, Piercarlo’s daughter Elisa returned from her viticultural studies in Milan to join the family business & to focus the family’s energy on the production of Timorasso. In 2013, Elisa’s brother Lorenzo joined the family business, and in 2014 they fermented the Timorasso wine, ‘Derthona,’ for the first time, using wild yeasts. Today, the Semino family continues to expand their viticulture, adding three new hectares to their holdings in 2017. About the Winemaking: '100% Timorasso, from several vineyards on our property, planted between 1997 and 2000. The vines are located between 270 and 300 meters (900 to 1,000 feet) above sea level. The soils include both light and dark limestone-rich clay. Harvest takes place typically in the middle of September. The grapes are macerated in the press for three hours before pressing; the wine is then fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks, and aged on the fine lees for at least 10 months before bottling. The wine is cold-stabilized and filtered. Residual sweetness is 1.2 g/L (dry), and the SO2 is 70 ppm at bottling. Sixteen thousand bottles are produced each year. Tasting Notes: On the nose the young wine shows notes of white peach, honey, acacia, hawthorn blossom, and chamomile, developing smoky and mineral notes with age. On the palate, there are savory notes that remind one of our clay soils. The fresh acidity of the wine allows it to improve in the bottle for many years.' Winemaker: Eliza & Lorenzo Semina Price per bottle / Price per case $33.99/$367.10 Suggested Food Pairing: Fonduta (Piedmontese cheese fondue) Risotto w/ white truffle Raw vegetables with bagna cauda (the local dip made from hazelnut oil, anchovies, peppers, garlic and cream.) aged cheeses like Montebore Seafood, Spicy foods Oddero Barbera D’Alba 2022 Region: Barbera D’Alba DOC, Piedmont. About the Winemaker: Oddero is one of the great, historic, traditional Barolo houses with a long history spanning over 200 years. There are mentions of the Oddero family in La Morra as far back as the 1700s, though the family was likely there even before that point. The winery was among the first producers to estate bottle their Barolo – in the late 1800s, a time when most wine was sold in bulk either by demijohn or barrel. There are even records of their wine being sold to the USA at that point as well. It was Giacomo Oddero (born 1926) and his brother Luigi (born 1928) who brought the winery into the modern era. They renovated their ancient farmhouse, elevated their wine quality, and extended their vineyard holdings. For years, the estate has quietly sold a good portion of its wines to a loyal clientele, much of it to restaurants in Italy. As such, they have remained somewhat under-the-radar amongst the tier of traditional Baroli. Giacomo’s daughter Mariacristina joined the winery in 1997 after studying Agronomic Science and Enology at the University of Torino. But after a few years, she and Luigi, both very strong-headed characters, had a challenging time working together and decided to separate. She kept the historic cellars in La Morra and much of the historic vineyards, and he formed his own winery in 2006, called Luigi Oddero e Figli. Today, Mariacristina’s son Pietro and niece Isabella are taking over and represent the seventh generation in the family to run the winery. They are both hugely committed to raising the reputation of the winery and have made significant investments in the vineyards and cellar to continue to help elevate the level of quality at this venerable estate. About the Winemaking: 100% Barbera. Certified organic. From vineyards planted between 2000 and 2005, on Tortonian soil (calcareous marl and sandstone.) Harvested in late September it goes through 10 days maceration and controlled low temperature fermentation in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts , followed by malolactic fermentation in November. 100% aged in 50-hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months. Blended in the spring, bottled in the summer. Tasting Notes: Intense ruby-red color with purple tinges, a bouquet of pure cherry, blackberry, black pepper and mineral flavors with an excellent dash of freshness. Elegant but intense, tannins are soft and fresh in the mouth, with a fine length. Winemaker: Pietro & Isabella Oddero Price per bottle / Price per case $29.99/$323.90 Suggested Food Pairing: Pretty much any tomato based dishes Pizza Grilled meats or vegetables Risotto Mildly spicy Asian dishes Panissa (Piedmontese Rice & Beans) This rich, robust dish makes the most of Piedmont’s famous rice and wine, with plenty of salami and beans strewn throughout. Cooked like a risotto but with a firmer, thicker texture, it’s a beautiful dish, which deserves to be more well-known outside the region. Ingredients: 1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 200g salami, finely chopped or whizzed into a paste (see Know-how) 800ml vegetable stock 400g tin or jar borlotti beans, including their liquid 300g carnaroli risotto rice 2 tbsp tomato purée 300ml robust red wine, ideally barbera d’asti 100g parmesan, finely grated 20g salted butter Parsley to serve Bread to serve (optional) Instructions: Heat the oil in a large hobsafe casserole or pan over a medium heat. Stir in the onion and a pinch of salt, then cook for about 8 minutes until softened. Stir in the salami and cook for about 4 minutes until starting to brown. Meanwhile, heat the stock in another pan and add the beans, including their liquid. Keep warm over a low heat. Stir the rice into the onions and cook for a few minutes, stirring regularly, until starting to turn translucent. Add the tomato purée and cook for 1 minute Pour in the wine and simmer for a few minutes. Add a few ladlefuls of the stock mixture to the rice at a time, ensuring the rice is always covered with liquid, and allow to bubble gently for 20-25 minutes, stirring constantly and topping up as needed, until all the liquid and beans are added and the rice is tender. Remove from the heat, cover with a lid and leave to stand for 5 minutes. Stir in most of the parmesan and the butter. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper. Serve with the remaining parmesan and some parsley leaves scattered over.
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Red Rogues Q4 2024
Wines of Piedmont Piedmont is Italy's westernmost region. It borders on Switzerland and France, and is hemmed in by the Alps and Apennines. Piedmont, in Italian, means “at the foot of the mountain”. With 46 different DOC and four DOCG areas, it is renowned for its famous wine grapes like Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto, but it is also home to many lesser-known, yet fascinating grape varieties. These often thrive in specific subregions and offer unique flavors and historical significance. Most of Piedmont’s wines are produced on family estates made up of relatively small parcels of land. For craftsmanship, respect for tradition and devotion to native vines in their historical habitat, the Piedmontese have no rivals in Italy. Our first wine is a Grignolino, a red grape native to the Piedmont region of northern Italy, particularly in the provinces of Asti and Alessandria. The name "Grignolino" is believed to derive from the Piedmontese word "grignole," which refers to the grape's many seeds. It is known for producing light-bodied, aromatic red wines with a distinct character. The grapes have relatively thin skins, which contribute to the light color of the wine. They also have naturally high acidity, making them fresh and vibrant. Despite their light body, Grignolino wines often have notable tannins due to the high number of seeds in the grapes. Grignolino is a challenging grape to grow due to its susceptibility to mildew and the need for careful vineyard management, but it thrives in the sandy, calcareous soils of Piedmont's rolling hills. Grignolino is a wonderful choice for wine lovers seeking something distinctive and off the beaten path, especially if you're a fan of delicate yet characterful reds. Our second wine, a Vespolina, is a lesser-known red grape primarily grown in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy. The name "Vespolina" is thought to derive from the Italian word vespa (wasp), possibly because the grapes' sweetness attracts wasps during ripening. It plays a supporting role in wine blends, though it is occasionally vinified as a varietal wine. Vespolina wines are known for their bright red fruit flavors, including cherries, raspberries, and red currants, along with floral and spicy notes. They often exhibit a touch of white pepper and herbal nuances. The wines tend to have moderate tannins and vibrant acidity, making them fresh and approachable, so you should drink your Vespolina while your Nebbiolo ages in the cellar. Last but not least, is the distinguished Nebbiolo, which is the base for the famed Barolo, Barbaresco and Gattinara. Its name derives from the word nebbia, or fog, because of a velvety, whitish coating over its berries. In addition, it grows in an area where, at ripening time in September, heavy morning fog is a given and the humidity that it provides gives the grapes an ideal habitat. Over 90 percent of Piedmont’s Nebbiolo wines come from the southern part of the region, the Alba area, which includes the Langhe hills and the Roero hills. Nebbiolo wines made outside of the Barolo and Barbaresco zones have such names as Nebbiolo d’Alba, Nebbiolo delle Langhe and Nebbiolo di Piemonte. In general, they are lighter-bodied, less serious wines than Barolo and Barbaresco, but have the advantage of being ready to drink sooner and being less expensive Cheers, Carrie Upson- General Manager/Wine Buyer La Casaccia 'Il Poggetto' Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese Region / Country of Origin: Monferrato DOC, Piedmont, Italy About the winery: In the Monferrato Casalese village of Cella Monte, agricultural science majors, Giovanni and Elena Rava, took over La Casaccia in 2001 and converted it to organic farming. A remarkable ecosystem of natural and human-made biodiversity surrounds the vineyards. Vines are planted on white chalk with layers of eroded sandstone and surrounded by untamed forests, wild fruit and nut trees. Their traditionally crafted wines are lifted, complex and filled with the humble yet exuberant character of la familia. Winemaking Notes: Poggeto' is destemmed and naturally fermented in fiberglass tanks for 3-4 days on skins with 2-3 daily gentle pump-overs (like rain, not a stream of wine), then the free-run wine is drawn off (without pressing) to finish fermentation in large steel vats (50-100 hl) at 20-22°C maximum. It’s then aged on fine lees for 2 months, racked off the lees and aged in steel until bottling between May to July. It’s fined with bentonite (natural clay) and filtered before bottling. Tasting Notes: delicate aromas and flavors of red berries (like strawberry and cherry), white pepper, rose petals, and sometimes earthy or herbal notes. The zippy acidity of the Grignolino is a perfect foil for ingredients with some tartness themselves, like the olives and the feta cheese. Serving an acidic wine with acidic components in a dish softens the tang in both the wine and the food, making the wine feel rounder and more lush on the palate, and making the olives taste fruitier and the cheese taste even creamier. Winemaker: Giovanni Rava Price per bottle / Price per case: $22.99 btl/ $248.29 Suggested Food Pairing: Spaghetti with Tomatoes, Fresh Herbs, Black Olives, and Feta Cheese, Vegetarian dishes, particularly those featuring tomatoes or roasted vegetables, White meats like chicken and turkey. Davide Carlone Vespolina Colline Novaresi 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Colline Novaresi DOC, Piemonte, Italy About the winemaker: Davide Carlone is one of the most serious and important winegrowers in Piedmont. Based in Boca, a small appellation in Alto Piemonte, at the foothills of the Italian Alps, Davide’s focus is on Nebbiolo and the local supporting cast, Croatina, Vespolina, and Erbaluce. His vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically and are surrounded by forest which helps promote biodiversity. In the cellar, he works mostly with larger old oak botti and some stainless steel. Davide is well-known in the region for his extreme attention to detail in the vineyards; he stands as a model for the surrounding appellations. About the grape: One of the genetic parents of Nebbiolo, Vespolina performs best in drier, well-drained soils (the sand and gravel of Boca are its friends), has bright acidity, usually 1-2g/L higher than Nebbiolo, a lower pH, and a beautifully original and noble aroma of white pepper (due to the rotundone molecule, which is found in Syrah or Grüner Veltliner, and in white and black pepper). Tasting Notes: It has Nebbiolo's spicy characteristics, although its tannins tend to be softer. It is an intriguing combination of dark spices, pepper, cardamom, cloves and ginger. It has redcurrant, blueberry and raspberry fragrances with subtle and delicate floral notes of iris. The taste is fresh and spicy with a warm aftertaste. Winemakers: Davide Carlone Price per bottle / Price per case: $29.99/btl $323.89/cs Suggested Food Pairing: Cured meats and salami, Grilled or roasted poultry, Tomato-based pasta dishes, Semi-hard cheeses like Fontina. Mauro Marengo Ravera Barolo 2019 Region / Country of Origin: Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy About the Winemaker: Once the Marengo family's technical direction was given to Daniele at age twenty-two, his personal taste and style of wines led him to pursue freshness over power and ripeness, and to highlight their Novello-based , high-altitude vineyards. They turned their attention to soil health and the incorporation of organic farming, the cellar work was gentler - new techniques were employed and they began to harvest earlier. While it’s typical for a Piemontese winemaking family to pass the winery to the next generation, what makes the Marengos unique is how early they began to pass the torch onto their children. Daniele put it well, “My father was very forward-thinking and created a true generational transition, leaving my sisters and me the possibility of embarking on a new path, while always remaining by our side, listening to our ideas and trying to understand them without putting ‘spokes’ in them.” About the Winemaking: Naturally fermented with a skin maceration time of 35-38 days. (Ravera may also undergo a submerged cap fermentation, but this depends on the year.) Three daily pumpovers in the beginning of fermentation and one or none in the later maceration period. After fermentation, it is racked once or twice prior to going into 25hl Slavonian oak botte for 20-22 months and an additional two in steel. Tasting Notes: The 2019 Ravera was aromatically tight at first, which is often a good indicator of stability for cellar aging and provides the right lengthy pacing for a nice long conversation over dinner. However, it loosens quickly to reveal its kaleidoscopic aromas of violets, lavender, orange peel, Persian mulberry, purple plum, and purple wine grapes, with spice, tar, leather, porcini, and wet forest. The tannins build as it opens and works into beautiful harmony and fluidity. Winemaker: Daniele Marengo Price per bottle / Price per case: $77.99/btl $842.29 case Suggested Food Pairing: Risotto with truffles, Grana Padana or Castelmagno cheese, Agnolotti filled with braised meat, Ribeye steak, Venison stew.
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July 2024 Wine of the Month Club
PIEDMONT Nobody knows exactly how many different kinds of wine grapes there are in Italy. Estimates range from several hundred to a few thousand. The Ministry of Forestry and Agriculture’s official tally is 350 different specimens grown “at commercial scale”, which is clearly less than half the actual total, but an absurd # nonetheless. France, for comparison, sources 95% of its national tipple from just 40 grapes; Piemonte (or Piedmont), our destination this month, and just one Italian region of 20, is by itself responsible for 30 distinct varieties. And that’s the magic trick of Italian wine. This finite and labor intensive agricultural product of one small nation performs like an endlessly renewable resource, stock energy fronting as flow, a self-provisioning celebration too crowded to get an accurate headcount. No matter how many guests keep arriving or how long the party lasts, Italy just keeps pulling fresh bottles from the Boot. Here are two more. To be fair, Piedmont is an exceptional place even by local standards. The second largest region by size in Italy (after Sicily), it is responsible for some of Italy most revered bottlings, specifically Barolo and Barbaresco, made from the Nebbiolo grape. The word itself, Piemonte, means “at the foot of the mountain”; surrounded on three sides by the Alps, it borders France and Switzerland, encompasses 8 provinces (Turin, Alessandria, Asti, Biella, Cuneo, Novara, Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, and Vercelli) and boasts 43 D.O.C. and 16 D.O.C.G. classifications of its wines. Our white comes from the Roero DOCG, where red wine represents 95-98% of total output, but the area is arguably most associated today with white wine made from the ancient and rare Arneis grape, which grows almost nowhere else. The name translates to “little rascal” in the local dialect, a reference to the grape’s trickiness in the vineyard (low-yielding and highly susceptible to mildew) and a possible explanation for its checkered past. Historically, Arneis was planted more to attract birds and bees away from the red grapes than for its potential drinking quality. When vinified it was often blended into Piedmont's reds to augment their aromatics and soften tannic edges. In the days before DOC laws, even Barolo would receive a dollop of Arneis. Its re-birth as prized, single white varietal started in the 1980s, and since then Arneis has distinguished itself as one of the few Piedmont whites as distinctive as its better known red brethren. The sign welcoming visitors to Castagnole Monferrato, a tiny alpine town just outside Asti, reads ““If someone in Castagnole Monferrato offers you Ruchè, it’s because he wants to spend time with you.” Perched on a 230 meter ridge, the town is surrounded by an amphitheater of lush hills, with clear views of all the great surrounding peaks: Monviso, Monte Rosa, the Matterhorn, and Mont Blanc. Its name recalls the once abundant chestnut forests (Castagna = chestnut) of the area, which are now replaced by vineyards where, as the sign suggests, Ruchè rules. Though its origins are somewhat mysterious, Ruchè has called Castalgone home since at least the Middle Ages, when it was used for local celebrations and likely during Mass as well. By the 20th century it had fallen into obscurity before 1964 when Castalglone Monfferato’s new parish priest, Don Giacomo Cauda, began producing and bottling his own wine made from the grape. By the 1980s, a full scale revival was underway, and it’s easy to understand why: with its vivid floral aromas, pronounced notes of white and black pepper, juicy berry fruit, and relatively soft tannins and acid, Ruchè doesn’t recall its regional neighbors, or anything else really. It is incredibly versatile with food and can be made in a number of different styles, from light and fresh to aged and complex. CIn-cin! The PlumpJack Wine Buying Team 2022 Marchesi Incisa Roero Arneis Region / Country of Origin: Roero/Piemonte/Italy About the vineyards: The Marchesi Incisa family holds roots in Piemonte dating back to the 1400's. In the town of Monferrato, they grow indigenous varieties demonstrating to the world how special they are. In the 1850's, Leopoldo Incisa came back from his journeys in France with clones of Pinot Noir & Merlot, planting them in the vineyards. These old vines have developed their own beautiful characteristics as well. Siblings Filiberto and Francesca now run the winery. Above all, Marchesi Incisa seeks to showcase the beauty and fantastic terroir of Monferrato and greater Piemonte. They have aided in the resurgence of many indigenous varieties and stayed true to their heritage. Tasting Notes: The Roero Arneis is a bright straw yellow. On the nose, it is fruity and floral with notes of acacia, green apple, peach and apricot. On the palate, savory and minerally. Persistent with an elegant finish, nice acidity and balanced structure. Arneis is a wine for the whole meal, which goes very well with starters, charcuteries, pasta and risotto dishes, BBQ, fish, seafood, crustaceans, white meats and spicy sauces. An excellent summer wine as well as an aperitif wine.” 91pts James Suckling Winemaker: Stefano Gozzelino Price: $23.99 bottle/ $259.09 case Suggested Food Pairing: Arneis is a wine for the whole meal, which goes very well with starters, charcuteries, pasta and risotto dishes, BBQ, fish, seafood, crustaceans, white meats and spicy sauces. It’s an excellent summer wine as well as an aperitif wine. 2021 Crotin 1897 Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato Region / Country of Origin: Monferrato/ Piemonte/ Italy About the Winery: The name Crotin 1897 refers to all the years Daniela Russo’s land has been in her family. She met her Calabrian husband in veterinary school--they both practice natural medicine for animals--and their three boys grew up in Calabria, by the sea. Going back home to make organic wine from the native grapes of Piemonte has been a family affair. Now grown, the three Russo brothers, Federico, Marcello and Corrado, work together, managing the vineyards, the cellar, and the B&B in their charming family home. Besides touring the small cantina, visitors to the estate can walk through Daniela’s large vegetable garden, meet Federico’s award-winning hunting dogs, and observe the neighbor’s small flock of sheep ambling home in the waning daylight. Tucked away in the rolling Monferrato hills, near the village of Maretto, Crotin is a testament to the Asti region’s rustic mix of vineyards, forests and farms. The family’s devotion to the indigenous varieties of the region and organic farming is clear and each vineyard possesses a unique, fascinating geological profile. Tasting Notes: Medium bodied with aromas of rose petal, mulberry and tobacco. Ruche is not as racy as the region’s other reds, but it’s still fresh and energetic with a good tannin structure. Winemaker: Corrado Russo and Christian Garella Price: $24.99 bottle/ $259.09 case Suggested Food Pairings: Charcuterie board with cold cuts and aged/blue cheeses, Finanziera alla Piemontese, Agnolotti, Korean fried chicken with kimchi.
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May 2023 Rosé Club
Italy has over 250 indigenous varieties of grapes, and the majority of the red grapes are made into rosé (rosato). However, Italy only produces 10% of the world’s rosés, which is probably why you don’t see them as frequently in our club. Despite a long tradition of highly rated bottlings, both Italian production and domestic consumption of rosato has been falling since 2000. Only a small amount of Italian pink wines are exported to the United States. When they can be found, they represent exceptional values, and typically offer a stark contrast in aroma and taste to the more familiar French and Californian styles. The most well known Italian red wines come from Tuscany and Piedmont, and the main grapes within each region are Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, respectively. While Sangiovese is the most widely planted varietal in all of Italy, Nebbiolo doesn’t even crack the top 10 – so when we came across a fresh and light Nebbiolo rosé, we decided to bring it in for you to try. Even better - because who ever says “we have too much rose?” - it comes in a liter bottle. Sfera (short for “atmosfera”, or atmosphere in Italian), is a collaboration with a rotating case of certified organic winemakers from the Alps to the Mediterranean, dedicated to producing limited-run, large format bottlings. This particular selection is a partnership with the excellent Croin winery in Piedmont’s Monferrato hills. After Sangiovese, Montepulciano is the next-most-planted variety in Italy. This dark-skinned grape loves the lengthy growing seasons of central and southern Italy and is a common variety in Abruzzo, Molise, and Marche vineyards. Montepulciano produces a deep purple wine with higher acidity and grippy tannins. Its most famous wine is Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, but it also produces Rosso Concero, Rosso Piceno, and one of this month’s rosés, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo, from the Torre Dei Beati winery. The name “Torre dei Beati” is drawn from a detail of a fresco dating back to the 14th century, in the S. Maria in Piano local church. In the representation of Judgement Day, the “Tower of the Blessed” (“Torre dei Beati”) is the final goal of the souls that is achieved through hard effort and many tests. The winery’s aim is to express, through extremely careful selections in the vineyard and at the winery, the best of the native grapes grown in the Loreto Aprutino area. Starting from the first production core, located on the ground floor of an old farmhouse settled in the center of the vineyard, a new cellar for the wine ageing and a new winery have since been added, allowing Torre dei Beati to use the house as a welcoming and tasting center. In 2004 they bought a new 8 hectare plot, where they are now planting new vineyards. Over time, their portfolio increases significantly with studies of the Montepulciano, the grape varietal on which their efforts are mainly focused. Think Pink! Carrie Upson-General Manager Torre Dei Beati Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Region/Country of Origin: Loreto Aprutino, Abruzzo, Italy About the Winery: Torre dei Beati started its family-run winemaking activity in 1999, when they decided to start manually cultivating their vineyard planted in 1972 by father Rocco. They firmly trust that high quality wine has to be natural and that to separate the two issues is really impossible. For this reason they immediately converted the vineyard to organic farming. Their first bottle dates back to 2000. About the Winemaking: The grapes, carefully selected in 20 kilos cases, are immediately brought to the winery, located close to the old farmhouse in the middle of the vineyard. There they are selected again on a sorting table to choose only the best. This process is applied to all of the grapes used in their wines, for the purpose of best expressing the potential of each wine according to its category. At the winery, the most advanced technology is applied to traditional winemaking with respect for the genuineness of the organic grapes. Cold pre-maceration, light pressing of the grapes before destemming. Fermentation at 15 to 16 degrees Celsius/ 59 to 61 degrees Fahrenheit. Maturation: In stainless steel tanks. Tasting Notes: Brilliant cherry color, enriched with intense violet reflections and a sense of balanced consistency. Bouquet: Fresh and persistent aromas of strawberries, pomegranates and cherries; embellished with elegant floral scents. Taste: Characterized by an optimal equilibrium of softness, tied to a supportive alcoholic component and a lively persistence of mineral acidity. Stimulating finish. These characteristics give Cerasuolo a particular pleasantness and flexibility with different dishes. Winemaker: Fausto Albanesi Price: $25.99 btl / $270 case Suggested food pairing: Antipasti, first courses, soups, legumes and grains, poultry and fish. Serve at 55-59 degrees. Sfera Litro Rosato Region/Country of Origin: Monferrato Astigiano, Piedmont, Italy About the Winery: From the Alps to the Mediterranean, SFERA is a collaboration with small certified-organic farmers to bottle Liters in limited runs. All the wines are made: - WITH organic certification- WITH a producer written in label- WITH only a minimum of added SO2 (from 20 to 40 mg/L)- WITHOUT selected yeasts- WITHOUT clarification or filtering. About the Winemaking: 24 hours on the skins, softpress and then the free run juice ferments for 20 days in stainless steel tanks. Élevage for 4 months in stainless steel and only one racking before bottling. Native yeasts with no fining or filtering Tasting Notes: This Rosato is refreshing and bright, with notes of pomegranate and cranberry, and a deeper rose hue. A rosé that is acid driven, dry, fruit forward, and has a low tannic grip. A super easy drinking, glou-glou style wine. Winemaker: Cristiano Garello, Federico, Marcello, & Corrado Russo Price: $16.99 bottle/$183.49 Suggested Food Pairing: Charcuterie, pasta dishes, risotto, ham.
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