Club Corner
Q1 Red Rogues 2025
Viva Mexico Besides being tendentious and all kinds of historically problematic, the wine world’s anachronistic tic of bifurcating itself into “Old” and “New” makes increasingly little sense in just plain descriptive terms. Viticulture in the Americas dates at least back to the 16th century; due to Europe’s 19th century Phylloxera apocalypse, many of the world’s oldest vines are located here. And while some countries in Europe (Italy, France) maintain rigorous and sometimes incomprehensible quality control standards, others are far more open ended. Today, the places with the strongest claims to “world’s earliest wine scene” - Georgia, Armenia - are in fact amongst the most free-form when it comes to production methods. (And that’s without even getting into who - or what - first invented wine. Here’s the ”Drunken Monkey” hypothesis for the curious.) So where does that leave Mexico? In terms of its wine scene, the country has never been more proudly, conspicuously, fascinatingly, deliciously - itself. The original setting for Vitis Vinifera growth in the Western Hemisphere is now arguably the site of its brightest future. This quarter we have three examples of all the great things happening south of the Rio Grande at the moment, excavations from a long and distinguished lineage, and samples of awesome stuff to come. But first, here’s a brief primer on how we got here. Upon vanquishing the Aztecs in 1521, the villainous Cortez the Killer decreed that every person around plant 10 vines, which added up to more than a quarter of million acres. As the Spanish spread across the lands, they planted more European grape vines, and by 1597 Casa Madero, the first winery in the Americas, was founded in the town Parras (vines) to which it gave a name, in the present day state of Cohuila. The fact that it is still in operation today is amazing - a testament to the vitality of viticulture in the area - but belies the struggles, challenges and reversals of fortune that have plagued the Mexican wine industry in the intervening years. For, after this initial success, Charles II of Spain in 1669 banned all non-sacramental wine production in Mexico, as its popularity was hurting Spanish wine imports in the Americas - a prohibition that stayed in place until Mexican independence in 1821. After that Mexicans, retaining a healthy animosity towards their former colonial overlords, generally preferred to focus on indigenous tipples like tequila and mezcal, along with beer. Without a robust domestic market, wine production remained primarily in the hands of the clergy until the mid-19th century, and rose and fell through the political upheavals of the end of the Porfiriato and the Revolution. The 1930s and 40s saw an expansion of the industry, when a national market developed for the first time. The 1980s were another pivotal period, as an economic crisis and an increase in imports via the GATT trade agreement meant many wineries folded, while others downsized or refocused on quality. The biggest growth has come in the past two decades however. In 2006, there were less than 25 wineries in Mexico; now there are 120 in Baja California, the largest region, by itself. These are mostly small, artisanal concerns, and primarily located in the Valle de Guadalupe area, sometimes called the Napa Valley of Mexico. Like Napa, it has a hot, dry Mediterranean climate, but it is closer (20 miles) to the ocean, possessing a stronger maritime influence. Soils are mostly sand, clay and granite, and elevations range from 300 to 2,600 feet. Two of our selections this quarter are grown here; the third is also from Baja, but located a little more inland in the Valle de Ojos Negros. All exude the sense of big sky possibility that defines Mexican wine right now: the lack of official appellations or geographical rules encourages experimentation and creative thinking, technological advances enable greater precision in farming, production and analysis, while the vines themselves age into complex maturity. Esperamos que disfrutes! Dominio de las Abejas Nebbiolo 2023 Region / Country of Origin: Valle de Ojos Negros, Baja California, Mexico About the winery: Dominio de las Abejas Estate was founded in 2015 by Mauricio Ruiz and family. Las Abejas is a concept winery that was started based on choosing the best possible piece of land for growing grapes in anticipation of climate change. Their search alighted on a piece of land in the high elevation Valle de Ojos Negros in Baja California, located just south and slightly inland from Valle de Guadalupe. About the Vineyards: Estate vineyards planted in 2015 at an elevation of 2,200 ft in a unique section of the valley that was once a marsh. Vineyards are certified organic by the CCOF. Winemaking: The wines of las Abejas are made naturally. Ambient yeast fermentation, no corrections or additions, no filtration or fining and only a 30 ppm sulfite addition at bottling. All grapes were picked on the same day and fermented on native yeast after a light first press “bleed off” to concentrate the color. Fermentation took place over a period of 14 days at the lowest temperature possible in search of a wine with low extraction and maximum purity and delicacy. Like all the rest of the wines from Las Abejas, this was bottled without filtration or fining. Tasting Notes: All of the wines in the lineup from Dominio de Las Abejas are best summed up by a single word “delicious” as their balance of fruit, tannin, texture, and persistence all seems to perfectly tweak the pleasure dial to 11. This 100% Nebbiolo is one of the few representations of this grape variety you’ll find in Mexico that presents with the same light color and structural rigidity of wines made of this grape from Italy’s Barolo and Barbaresco regions. The true mystery of this grape is how it can be so light and beautiful in color and texture and yet deliver such intensity of flavor and structure. Here that dual nature of the grape is on full display with a color and body that are similar to a rosé but with the intensity and structure of a serious red. Winemaker: Mauricio Ruiz Price per bottle / Price per case: $32.99/btl -case by request Suggested Food Pairing: Carne asada, Game birds, truffle pasta Santos Brujos 2021 Tempranillo Region / Country of Origin: Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico About the winery: Santos Brujos is one of the few wineries in the region that has taken the steps to become certified organic and biodynamic. Certified by the CCOF, USDA and Demeter, they are more dedicated to this approach than anyone else we have seen thus far. Even the name "Santos Brujos", which translates to "Saintly Witches" makes reference to the practice prescribed by Rudolf Steiner, (the founder of Biodynamic farming) by which the amendments to the soil and plants are prepared and stirred at length by hand. About the vineyards: Estate vineyards, located in the center of the valley approximately 8 miles from the Pacific at an elevation of 900 ft. Soils are a sandy clay marl. About the Winemaking: Wine is fermented on native yeasts in French oak barrels, racked and aged in new French oak for 12 months. Bottled unfiltered with a sulphur level of 13 ppm. Tasting Notes: The wine offers inviting aromas of ripe red fruits such as cherry and plum, with subtle hints of vanilla, tobacco, and earthy undertones. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, with flavors of dark berries, spice, and a touch of oak. The tannins are smooth and well-integrated, providing a balanced structure. It has a long and satisfying finish, with lingering notes of fruit and spice. Winemaker: Luis Pecina Garcia Price per bottle / Price per case: $42.99/ case upon request Suggested Food Pairing: The Santos Brujos Tempranillo pairs well with a variety of dishes, including grilled meats, roasted vegetables, and traditional Spanish cuisine such as tapas or paella. Its balanced acidity and tannins make it versatile for pairing with both hearty and lighter fare. La Lomita Tinto de la Hacienda 2021 Region / Country of Origin: Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico About the winery: La Lomita was founded by Fernando Pérez Castro and is located mid-valley on a northwestern facing slope in the ejido of Francisco Zarco. While the winery wasn't formally established until 2009, La Lomita's land holdings include vineyard sites with some of the Valle de Guadalupe's oldest vines. The winery is one of the few to be certified organic in México, and Winemaker Gustavo González made the illustrious Masetto from 2000 through 2003. About the Winemaking: Grapes are sourced from their estate vineyards as well as vineyards in Valle de Ojos Negros and Uruapan, all of which are farmed organically. They are harvested by hand and hand selected before being fermented with skins and seeds in open top stainless steel tanks for 3 weeks and then racked to 2nd and 3rd use French oak barrels where the wine ages for 12 months. 75% Tempranillo, 25% Merlot Tasting Notes: Bold in structure, there is a background of acidity to provide a notably large wine with the lift needed to allow it to float effortlessly across the palate despite the full body. No doubt the Merlot assists in this regard as well. This one is ready to go right out of the gate. Built with everything it needs to age gracefully for a decade or more, good luck managing to save it that long! Winemaker: Gustavo A. Gonzalez Price per bottle / Price per case: $37.99/ case available upon request Suggested Food Pairing: Lamb chops, chorizo, beef ribs
Learn moreSeptember 2023 Rose Club
Although we will never tire of drinking French rosé, we want to make sure we give other countries a chance to steal the spotlight, so September’s wines come to you from Italy. The first wine comes from G.D. Vajra in the Piedmont region. The Vajra family has farmed Bricco delle Viole, the highest cru in Comune di Barolo, since the 1880s. At the young age of fifteen, Aldo Vajra embraced the dream to revive his family legacy. Displaying a vision and commitment belying his young age he took over the estate in 1968, turning a new page. Aldo acquired the first organic certification of the region (1971), created private biotype selections (selezioni massali) of Nebbiolo and Dolcetto, pioneered the renaissance of Freisa, a noble yet forgotten local grape (1980) and the cultivation of Rhine Riesling in Piemonte (1985). Today, the Vajra family continues the vineyard research focusing on the influence of soil and climate change. The winery is trail-blazing the rediscovery of Chiaretto di Nebbiolo and the wines of the 17th century – long before Barolo was created - through two limited-production wines: “N.S. della Neve” (a champagne-method rosé nature) and “Claré JC”, a partial whole-cluster fermentation of pure Nebbiolo. Aldo and Milena, are now joined by their energetic children Giuseppe, Francesca and Isidoro, and by an amazing team of young professionals, in their quest for an authentic expression of their land into the wines. G.D. Vajra is an independent winery, entirely family-owned. Bertani’s impact on Veneto wine making, particularly in Amarone production, is so considerable that ‘Bertani’ and ‘Amarone’ are nearly synonymous. Their 150+ year history is dotted with groundbreaking initiatives and royal accreditation. While respectful of their past, Bertani strives towards innovation, using progressive techniques and equipment allied with extensive experience and a deeply felt respect for tradition to provide wines of uncompromising quality. Think Pink! Carrie Upson- General Manager Bertani Bertarose 2022 Region: Verona, Italy About the Winery: Bertani was founded in 1857 by brothers Gaetano and Giovan Battista Bertani. Prosperous wine merchants who believed in quality winemaking held the key to the future, the Bartanis invested in some of the finest vineyards in the province. Recognition and success followed swiftly as Bertani became one of the first Veronese producers to export their wines on a significant scale. Bertani was founded in Grezzana, a province in the Valpantena DOC, north-east of Verona. Here the company headquarters remain, including the estate’s historic vineyards and cellars that are still in use. The Valpantena valley is covered with marble-calcareous soil containing large quantities of iron, which impart unique, spicy mineral flavors in the grapes. The particular characteristics of the soil have allowed the wines to be labeled officially a CRU status within the Valpolicella DOC; the only one among the seven valleys of Valpolicella. About the winemaking: The grapes are grown on the inland hills of Lake Garda and with young Guyot trained Valpolicella vines averaging about 10 years old. The soils are clay-limestone. Harvest occurs at the end of September, and the varieties are vinified separately in stainless steel with controlled skin contact. After blending, the wine rests in stainless steel tanks for three months. 50% Corvina, 30% Molinara, 10% Corvinone, 10% Rondinella Tasting notes: Aromas of berries and spices. The palate balances good structure and vibrant acidity, with a fresh, pleasant finish. Perfect as an aperitif. Director of Operations: Andrea Lonardi Price per bottle/Price per case: $18.99 btls/ $216 case Suggested Food Pairing: This wine is ideal paired with salads, delicate flavored pasta dishes or as an aperitif. G.D. Vajra Rosato “rosa bella” 2022 Region: Piedmont, Italy About the Winery: In 1971, Aldo Vajra, then still a university student, was one of the earliest to adopt organic farming in Piemonte. Vineyards have been nurtured, and soil preserved, by grassing and spontaneous cover crop for almost 50 years now. They are sustainable and organic certified. With an incredible ratio of manual work per hectare, farming at Vajra is a labor of love and “recipe-free” attention. Intense research is also placed into monitoring and improving the biodiversity of both flora and fauna not just in the vineyards, but also in the winery fields and forests. About the winemaking: Nebbiolo 85%, Barbera 10%, Dolcetto 5%. Fruit was harvested in a prolonged time window, between August 20th and October 5th of 2022. No malolactic fermentation. Aged a short time in stainless-steel tanks at low temperature, prior to bottling. Tasting notes: Rosabella is a rosé de saignée. The early picking and a gentle maceration express the grape aromatics in a fragrant, translucent style. This is a seasonal, limited production that shows a surprising capacity of evolution. Incredibly ethereal, dominated by the presence of Nebbiolo. The bouquet reveals notes of jasmine, rose petals, white raspberries, pink salt and high mountain flowers. The palate features the signature freshness of Nebbiolo, with an initial lush, salty texture and balanced acidity, an aerial balance and a superb drinkability. Winemakers: Guiseppe, Isidoro, and Francesa Vaira Price per bottle/Price per case: $21.99 btls/ $238 case Suggested Food Pairing: It will be a terrific addition to any BBQ, and it's a tremendous table setter with antipasti when you want to enjoy its more tannic Piedmonte red cousins following with more hearty fare. Then of course, it will be thoroughly enjoyable all by itself on some warm, peaceful sunny day.
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May 2023 Rosé Club
Italy has over 250 indigenous varieties of grapes, and the majority of the red grapes are made into rosé (rosato). However, Italy only produces 10% of the world’s rosés, which is probably why you don’t see them as frequently in our club. Despite a long tradition of highly rated bottlings, both Italian production and domestic consumption of rosato has been falling since 2000. Only a small amount of Italian pink wines are exported to the United States. When they can be found, they represent exceptional values, and typically offer a stark contrast in aroma and taste to the more familiar French and Californian styles. The most well known Italian red wines come from Tuscany and Piedmont, and the main grapes within each region are Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, respectively. While Sangiovese is the most widely planted varietal in all of Italy, Nebbiolo doesn’t even crack the top 10 – so when we came across a fresh and light Nebbiolo rosé, we decided to bring it in for you to try. Even better - because who ever says “we have too much rose?” - it comes in a liter bottle. Sfera (short for “atmosfera”, or atmosphere in Italian), is a collaboration with a rotating case of certified organic winemakers from the Alps to the Mediterranean, dedicated to producing limited-run, large format bottlings. This particular selection is a partnership with the excellent Croin winery in Piedmont’s Monferrato hills. After Sangiovese, Montepulciano is the next-most-planted variety in Italy. This dark-skinned grape loves the lengthy growing seasons of central and southern Italy and is a common variety in Abruzzo, Molise, and Marche vineyards. Montepulciano produces a deep purple wine with higher acidity and grippy tannins. Its most famous wine is Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, but it also produces Rosso Concero, Rosso Piceno, and one of this month’s rosés, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo, from the Torre Dei Beati winery. The name “Torre dei Beati” is drawn from a detail of a fresco dating back to the 14th century, in the S. Maria in Piano local church. In the representation of Judgement Day, the “Tower of the Blessed” (“Torre dei Beati”) is the final goal of the souls that is achieved through hard effort and many tests. The winery’s aim is to express, through extremely careful selections in the vineyard and at the winery, the best of the native grapes grown in the Loreto Aprutino area. Starting from the first production core, located on the ground floor of an old farmhouse settled in the center of the vineyard, a new cellar for the wine ageing and a new winery have since been added, allowing Torre dei Beati to use the house as a welcoming and tasting center. In 2004 they bought a new 8 hectare plot, where they are now planting new vineyards. Over time, their portfolio increases significantly with studies of the Montepulciano, the grape varietal on which their efforts are mainly focused. Think Pink! Carrie Upson-General Manager Torre Dei Beati Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Region/Country of Origin: Loreto Aprutino, Abruzzo, Italy About the Winery: Torre dei Beati started its family-run winemaking activity in 1999, when they decided to start manually cultivating their vineyard planted in 1972 by father Rocco. They firmly trust that high quality wine has to be natural and that to separate the two issues is really impossible. For this reason they immediately converted the vineyard to organic farming. Their first bottle dates back to 2000. About the Winemaking: The grapes, carefully selected in 20 kilos cases, are immediately brought to the winery, located close to the old farmhouse in the middle of the vineyard. There they are selected again on a sorting table to choose only the best. This process is applied to all of the grapes used in their wines, for the purpose of best expressing the potential of each wine according to its category. At the winery, the most advanced technology is applied to traditional winemaking with respect for the genuineness of the organic grapes. Cold pre-maceration, light pressing of the grapes before destemming. Fermentation at 15 to 16 degrees Celsius/ 59 to 61 degrees Fahrenheit. Maturation: In stainless steel tanks. Tasting Notes: Brilliant cherry color, enriched with intense violet reflections and a sense of balanced consistency. Bouquet: Fresh and persistent aromas of strawberries, pomegranates and cherries; embellished with elegant floral scents. Taste: Characterized by an optimal equilibrium of softness, tied to a supportive alcoholic component and a lively persistence of mineral acidity. Stimulating finish. These characteristics give Cerasuolo a particular pleasantness and flexibility with different dishes. Winemaker: Fausto Albanesi Price: $25.99 btl / $270 case Suggested food pairing: Antipasti, first courses, soups, legumes and grains, poultry and fish. Serve at 55-59 degrees. Sfera Litro Rosato Region/Country of Origin: Monferrato Astigiano, Piedmont, Italy About the Winery: From the Alps to the Mediterranean, SFERA is a collaboration with small certified-organic farmers to bottle Liters in limited runs. All the wines are made: - WITH organic certification- WITH a producer written in label- WITH only a minimum of added SO2 (from 20 to 40 mg/L)- WITHOUT selected yeasts- WITHOUT clarification or filtering. About the Winemaking: 24 hours on the skins, softpress and then the free run juice ferments for 20 days in stainless steel tanks. Élevage for 4 months in stainless steel and only one racking before bottling. Native yeasts with no fining or filtering Tasting Notes: This Rosato is refreshing and bright, with notes of pomegranate and cranberry, and a deeper rose hue. A rosé that is acid driven, dry, fruit forward, and has a low tannic grip. A super easy drinking, glou-glou style wine. Winemaker: Cristiano Garello, Federico, Marcello, & Corrado Russo Price: $16.99 bottle/$183.49 Suggested Food Pairing: Charcuterie, pasta dishes, risotto, ham.
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