Club Corner
Q1 Red Rogues 2025
Viva Mexico Besides being tendentious and all kinds of historically problematic, the wine world’s anachronistic tic of bifurcating itself into “Old” and “New” makes increasingly little sense in just plain descriptive terms. Viticulture in the Americas dates at least back to the 16th century; due to Europe’s 19th century Phylloxera apocalypse, many of the world’s oldest vines are located here. And while some countries in Europe (Italy, France) maintain rigorous and sometimes incomprehensible quality control standards, others are far more open ended. Today, the places with the strongest claims to “world’s earliest wine scene” - Georgia, Armenia - are in fact amongst the most free-form when it comes to production methods. (And that’s without even getting into who - or what - first invented wine. Here’s the ”Drunken Monkey” hypothesis for the curious.) So where does that leave Mexico? In terms of its wine scene, the country has never been more proudly, conspicuously, fascinatingly, deliciously - itself. The original setting for Vitis Vinifera growth in the Western Hemisphere is now arguably the site of its brightest future. This quarter we have three examples of all the great things happening south of the Rio Grande at the moment, excavations from a long and distinguished lineage, and samples of awesome stuff to come. But first, here’s a brief primer on how we got here. Upon vanquishing the Aztecs in 1521, the villainous Cortez the Killer decreed that every person around plant 10 vines, which added up to more than a quarter of million acres. As the Spanish spread across the lands, they planted more European grape vines, and by 1597 Casa Madero, the first winery in the Americas, was founded in the town Parras (vines) to which it gave a name, in the present day state of Cohuila. The fact that it is still in operation today is amazing - a testament to the vitality of viticulture in the area - but belies the struggles, challenges and reversals of fortune that have plagued the Mexican wine industry in the intervening years. For, after this initial success, Charles II of Spain in 1669 banned all non-sacramental wine production in Mexico, as its popularity was hurting Spanish wine imports in the Americas - a prohibition that stayed in place until Mexican independence in 1821. After that Mexicans, retaining a healthy animosity towards their former colonial overlords, generally preferred to focus on indigenous tipples like tequila and mezcal, along with beer. Without a robust domestic market, wine production remained primarily in the hands of the clergy until the mid-19th century, and rose and fell through the political upheavals of the end of the Porfiriato and the Revolution. The 1930s and 40s saw an expansion of the industry, when a national market developed for the first time. The 1980s were another pivotal period, as an economic crisis and an increase in imports via the GATT trade agreement meant many wineries folded, while others downsized or refocused on quality. The biggest growth has come in the past two decades however. In 2006, there were less than 25 wineries in Mexico; now there are 120 in Baja California, the largest region, by itself. These are mostly small, artisanal concerns, and primarily located in the Valle de Guadalupe area, sometimes called the Napa Valley of Mexico. Like Napa, it has a hot, dry Mediterranean climate, but it is closer (20 miles) to the ocean, possessing a stronger maritime influence. Soils are mostly sand, clay and granite, and elevations range from 300 to 2,600 feet. Two of our selections this quarter are grown here; the third is also from Baja, but located a little more inland in the Valle de Ojos Negros. All exude the sense of big sky possibility that defines Mexican wine right now: the lack of official appellations or geographical rules encourages experimentation and creative thinking, technological advances enable greater precision in farming, production and analysis, while the vines themselves age into complex maturity. Esperamos que disfrutes! Dominio de las Abejas Nebbiolo 2023 Region / Country of Origin: Valle de Ojos Negros, Baja California, Mexico About the winery: Dominio de las Abejas Estate was founded in 2015 by Mauricio Ruiz and family. Las Abejas is a concept winery that was started based on choosing the best possible piece of land for growing grapes in anticipation of climate change. Their search alighted on a piece of land in the high elevation Valle de Ojos Negros in Baja California, located just south and slightly inland from Valle de Guadalupe. About the Vineyards: Estate vineyards planted in 2015 at an elevation of 2,200 ft in a unique section of the valley that was once a marsh. Vineyards are certified organic by the CCOF. Winemaking: The wines of las Abejas are made naturally. Ambient yeast fermentation, no corrections or additions, no filtration or fining and only a 30 ppm sulfite addition at bottling. All grapes were picked on the same day and fermented on native yeast after a light first press “bleed off” to concentrate the color. Fermentation took place over a period of 14 days at the lowest temperature possible in search of a wine with low extraction and maximum purity and delicacy. Like all the rest of the wines from Las Abejas, this was bottled without filtration or fining. Tasting Notes: All of the wines in the lineup from Dominio de Las Abejas are best summed up by a single word “delicious” as their balance of fruit, tannin, texture, and persistence all seems to perfectly tweak the pleasure dial to 11. This 100% Nebbiolo is one of the few representations of this grape variety you’ll find in Mexico that presents with the same light color and structural rigidity of wines made of this grape from Italy’s Barolo and Barbaresco regions. The true mystery of this grape is how it can be so light and beautiful in color and texture and yet deliver such intensity of flavor and structure. Here that dual nature of the grape is on full display with a color and body that are similar to a rosé but with the intensity and structure of a serious red. Winemaker: Mauricio Ruiz Price per bottle / Price per case: $32.99/btl -case by request Suggested Food Pairing: Carne asada, Game birds, truffle pasta Santos Brujos 2021 Tempranillo Region / Country of Origin: Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico About the winery: Santos Brujos is one of the few wineries in the region that has taken the steps to become certified organic and biodynamic. Certified by the CCOF, USDA and Demeter, they are more dedicated to this approach than anyone else we have seen thus far. Even the name "Santos Brujos", which translates to "Saintly Witches" makes reference to the practice prescribed by Rudolf Steiner, (the founder of Biodynamic farming) by which the amendments to the soil and plants are prepared and stirred at length by hand. About the vineyards: Estate vineyards, located in the center of the valley approximately 8 miles from the Pacific at an elevation of 900 ft. Soils are a sandy clay marl. About the Winemaking: Wine is fermented on native yeasts in French oak barrels, racked and aged in new French oak for 12 months. Bottled unfiltered with a sulphur level of 13 ppm. Tasting Notes: The wine offers inviting aromas of ripe red fruits such as cherry and plum, with subtle hints of vanilla, tobacco, and earthy undertones. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, with flavors of dark berries, spice, and a touch of oak. The tannins are smooth and well-integrated, providing a balanced structure. It has a long and satisfying finish, with lingering notes of fruit and spice. Winemaker: Luis Pecina Garcia Price per bottle / Price per case: $42.99/ case upon request Suggested Food Pairing: The Santos Brujos Tempranillo pairs well with a variety of dishes, including grilled meats, roasted vegetables, and traditional Spanish cuisine such as tapas or paella. Its balanced acidity and tannins make it versatile for pairing with both hearty and lighter fare. La Lomita Tinto de la Hacienda 2021 Region / Country of Origin: Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico About the winery: La Lomita was founded by Fernando Pérez Castro and is located mid-valley on a northwestern facing slope in the ejido of Francisco Zarco. While the winery wasn't formally established until 2009, La Lomita's land holdings include vineyard sites with some of the Valle de Guadalupe's oldest vines. The winery is one of the few to be certified organic in México, and Winemaker Gustavo González made the illustrious Masetto from 2000 through 2003. About the Winemaking: Grapes are sourced from their estate vineyards as well as vineyards in Valle de Ojos Negros and Uruapan, all of which are farmed organically. They are harvested by hand and hand selected before being fermented with skins and seeds in open top stainless steel tanks for 3 weeks and then racked to 2nd and 3rd use French oak barrels where the wine ages for 12 months. 75% Tempranillo, 25% Merlot Tasting Notes: Bold in structure, there is a background of acidity to provide a notably large wine with the lift needed to allow it to float effortlessly across the palate despite the full body. No doubt the Merlot assists in this regard as well. This one is ready to go right out of the gate. Built with everything it needs to age gracefully for a decade or more, good luck managing to save it that long! Winemaker: Gustavo A. Gonzalez Price per bottle / Price per case: $37.99/ case available upon request Suggested Food Pairing: Lamb chops, chorizo, beef ribs
Learn more
Q3 2024 Red Rogues Club
SOUTH AFRICA The history of South African wine traces back to 1659 when Jan van Riebeeck, the founder and governor, produced the very first bottle in Cape Town. The 18th century marked a significant expansion for their wine industry, particularly with a focus on sweet and fortified wines. Brandy production thrived, driving the need for white grape cultivation and boosting exports. However, the British invasion in 1795 reshaped South Africa's history and its wine landscape, leading to rapid vineyard growth and a flourishing export market, especially to Britain. Yet, as British trade interests shifted toward France, South African wine exports began to decline. The situation worsened with the phylloxera epidemic, which devastated vineyards, and the onset of the Anglo-Boer War, further straining the industry. By the early 20th century, these challenges had left the wine sector struggling, marking a pivotal moment in its development. Apartheid in the country led to international sanctions in the 1960s, further hampering the growth of the wine industry. But it was during this time that some independent producers began improvements in viticulture and winemaking. And when apartheid ended in 1994, the momentum toward quality over quantity was building. The ability to access global markets spurred fresh investments in the country's wine industry. The Wine of Origin (WO) system, established in 1973, comprises approximately 60 appellations that categorize designated production areas into regions, districts, and wards. Wines labeled under WO are required to include grapes solely from their specific region of origin. Furthermore, "Single Vineyard" wines must originate from a defined plot of land no larger than 6 hectares. An "Estate Wine" can be produced from nearby farms if they are cultivated together and the wine is made on-site. A ward is characterized by unique soil types or climatic conditions, paralleling a European appellation in its designation. Wine production is primarily centered in and around Cape Town, largely confined to the Western Cape province, with significant vineyards and production hubs located in Constantia, Paarl, Stellenbosch, and Worcester. The Cape winelands span from the rugged mountains and varied slopes of the coastal region to the open and wild plains of the Klein Karoo, where viticulture primarily takes place in the riverine valleys. Each region has its own unique characteristics and microclimates, allowing winemakers to craft an array of styles, from elegant and cool-climate whites to bold and robust reds. In the Western Cape, which is near the coast, the icy Atlantic Ocean helps moderate temperatures. On the coastal side, where fynbos and renosterveld (‘rhinoceros field’, derived from the historical presence of rhinoceros in these grassy plains) thrive, the annual rainfall measures up to 39 inches. As one travels over the mountains into the wilderness, the rainfall dramatically decreases, and the vegetation is dominated by hardy succulents, cycads, and aloes. South African wine makes up less than half a percent of imported wine in the United States, which is significantly less than other major non-European wine-producing countries, so we thought we’d introduce you to some of the best South Africa has to offer. We have also hyperlinked several South African recipes to try with these delicious wines. Cheers, Carrie Upson- General Manager/Wine Buyer De Toren Z Red Blend 2016 Region / Country of Origin: Stellenbosch, South Africa About the vineyards: The vineyards are situated approximately six miles from False Bay, at altitudes of 655 feet above sea level. The “Z” block, set on a south-facing slope, is exposed to cooling ocean breezes. There are 10 different soil types found on the estate, but the Merlot based Z hails mainly from clay-rich soils of Sterkspruit, Estcourt and Vilafonte. De Toren is Dutch for “the tower.” The name refers to the winery structure which allows for gravity flow winemaking. Winemaking Notes: The grapes were handpicked in the cool, early morning hours and transported in small baskets to the winery, where they were hand sorted and de-stemmed. They were gently crushed and gravity fed into open-top fermentation tanks where regular manual punch downs were performed during fermentation. The wine was basket pressed and gravity fed into 225 liter oak barrels (25% new, 25% second fill, 25% third fill and 25% fourth fill), where it was aged for 12 months in a climatized barrel room (61°F at 80% humidity). Each varietal component was vinified and aged separately in French oak with the exception of Malbec, which was aged in American oak. 54% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 12% Malbec, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot Tasting Notes: You’ll find it tantalizingly soft on the tongue, with a hint of aniseed, liquorice, raspberry and cranberries lending a fresh acidity to its polished finish. This follows through perfectly on the palate, revealing pure juicy red fruit, berries and plum. Complex and vibrant, this expressive red showcases velvety, finely knit tannins…just as one would expect from a Merlot-led blend! Winemaker: Martin Fourie Cellar Master: Charles Williams Price per bottle / Price per case: $52.99 btl/ $572.29 Suggested Food Pairing: Duck pate or pork terrines, Beef carpaccio, Peri Peri Duck, Crispy New Potatoes & Kale, Beef Wellington Maanschijn Herbarium Cape Red 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Walker Bay, South Africa About the winery: Derived from the Dutch term for moonlight, Maanschijn is now an artisanal wine production situated inside a heritage building and below a tall mountain peak. A collaboration between two winemakers, Douglas Mylrea and Paul Hoogwerf, who attended both high school and university together. After studying winemaking in Stellenbosch, they went on their separate journeys, gaining experience in cellars and vineyards around the world. Many vintages passed before a series of fortunate events led their paths to cross, once again. It was at this meeting where they discovered, in each other, a shared passion and philosophy towards their craft, and together, co-founded their young wine company. About the winemaking: The Herbarium Cape Red is primarily Pinotage, with Syrah and Mourvèdre making up the rest. Pinotage is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault and was created in the early 20th century in South Africa. For Herbarium Cape Red, each varietal was fermented with native yeast, and partially in whole bunches before being pressed to neutral French oak. After nine months of aging, the wine was blended and bottled without fining. 42% Pinotage, 38% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre. Minimal Intervention. Tasting Notes: Each varietal shines so well in this wine. The Pinotage yields black cherry and rose petal notes; the Syrah gives a seductive inky purple color, along with violet and peppery tones; and then loads of dried herbs shine from the Mourvèdre. The calling card of Walker Bay shines too, as a beautiful stony and saline minerality comes through in the finish. Winemakers: Douglas Mylrea and Paul Hoogwerf Price per bottle / Price per case: $30.99 btl/ $334.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Heavy stews or red meat dishes, Smoked meats, Potjiekos, Peppercorn rubbed steak with sauteed mushrooms. Scions of Sinai Swanesang Syrah 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Stellenbosch, South Africa About the Winemaker: Bernhard Bredell, a seventh-generation vineyard farmer, is deeply rooted in South Africa’s winemaking heritage. Raised among Sinai Hill’s ancient vines, he carries the legacy of his ancestors who planted the first vines 160 years ago. Bernhard’s commitment to regenerative and dry farming methods, combined with his passion for nurturing the land, reflects in his exceptional wines. His efforts to preserve historic bush vines have earned him a vital role in the South African wine scene, offering a unique taste of Helderberg’s exceptional terroir. His dedication and the allure of this pristine land are truly captivating. About the Winemaking: As with all Scions of Sinai wines, the grapes are hand harvested and immediately brought into the tanks early in the morning. Swanesang undergoes a long natural fermentation in open-top fermenters where 90% of the grapes are left whole-cluster. Fermentation is approached as more of an infusion process than that of extracting, so occasional pump-overs and partial post-fermentation-maceration is carried out before pressing. It is then transferred to large format concrete and older 400L French oak barrels and aged on its fine lees for 11 months. Tasting Notes: Dark as night, explosively aromatic, full-bodied, and with perfectly integrated tannins. Notes of violets, cloves, and cracked peppercorns shine first; then emerges cassis, blueberries, black olives, licorice, and dried fynbos brush. Swanesang is full-bodied, concentrated, rich and velvety. It’s seamless and long—just the complete package in a wine that’s perfectly approachable yet capable of aging effortlessly for two decades or more. Winemaker: Bernhard Bredell Price per bottle / Price per case: $40.99/btl/$442.70 Suggested Food Pairing: Bobotie, Boerewors, Game meats like venison, ostrich, duck, & rabbit, Dark chocolate
Learn more