October 2, 2026

Red Rogues Q3 2026

   Club Med   The Mediterranean doesn’t really require an introduction. (A spell check, definitely - but no intro.) We’re all probably at least a little familiar with the sea at the center of so much human history, culture, cuisine, leisure, and conflict already. Lots of important stuff has been happening there all the time since the dawn of time; we don’t have the time to get into most of it now. Even given our red wine-specific remit, the Med, in all its multi-continental viticultural fecundity, is way too teeming to cover in only three bottles. So this quarter we are sticking to just the interstices, the brown and green smudges perforating all that ceaseless blueness on maps, photos and IRL. The Islands.  There are a bunch, as you’d expect. More than 10,000 in total, amongst  which are two sovereign states (Malta and Cyprus), many nations, and plenty of wine. The most conspicuous in almost all regards  - the largest by size, population, and wine production - is Sicily. Too vast and variegated to share the spotlight, our visit there will have to wait for another time. That leaves only the approximately 2,127 islands larger than .01km to choose from. Most of them don’t produce any wine of course, but are nonetheless fascinating to discover.*   We are focusing here on three you’ve probably heard of however: Sardinia, Corsica and Mallorca. The 2nd, 4th and 7th, largest islands by area in the sea, respectively, they all officially belong to different mainland European countries (Italy, France, Spain),  but remain fiercely protective of their own cultures and traditions. And this makes for very interesting wine scenes. Each possesses awesome indigenous varietals, unique local terroir, and hundreds if not thousands of years of viticultural know-how to draw from, alongside the  influence  of all the visitors/invaders that have made landfall over the centuries. No wine region - even the actual islands - is a metaphorical island, and that tension between isolation and accessibility is one of the things that make these wines in particular so singular and rewarding.  First up is Sardinia, runner-up to Sicily in terms of both size and population, but responsible for a whopping 80% of Italy’s cork production. Located 150 miles off the west coast of the Apennine Peninsula, flaunting white sand beaches and alpine forests, and stretching across mountains, hills and plains, Sardinia is 9,300 square miles of such manifold ecological and topographical plenty that it's been called an island that’s almost a continent. Consequently, numerous foreign invaders have tried to conquer it over the years. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Saracens, Spanish, French and Italians all made attempts, and the landscape is dotted with evidence of the inhabitants' fierce resistance. There are some 7,000 ancient Nughari, or Bronze Age dressed stone circular defense towers built by the Nugari civilization (and for which no parallel exists anywhere else in the world) all over the island. Even Italy, the last and most successful of these would-be hegemons, hasn’t found full acceptance: you can still find the slogan “Sardigna no est Italia”, which translates to “Sardinia is not Italy”, graffitied on many village and town walls. While Sardinian wines were much prized by the ancient Greeks and other bygone Mediterranean civilizations, they have not been held in high regard for most of modern history. This has changed significantly in the last few decades though, as dedicated local vintners focused on celebrating the local terroir and varietals with sustainable farming practices and low yields, resulting in some very high quality bottlings. Today, Sardinia has more DOC and IGT titles than Calabria and Basilicata combined, inclusive of one DOCG wine, 19 DOC zones and 15 IGT zones, despite having the lowest wine production per acre of any Italian wine region. There are some 120 indigenous varietals grown in Sardinia, but the vast majority of planting and production is given over to just two: the red Cannonau (which is genetically identical to Grenache) and the white Vermentino (also grown in Tuscany, France, where it is called Rolle, and increasingly, California.)  Next comes Corsica, the fourth largest by area (sixth by population) and the most mountainous island in the Mediterranean. It was once ruled from Genoa before the French took over, just  in time for native son Napoleon Bonaparte to be born a French subject. But Corsica has always been a world of its own, with a viticultural tradition dating back thousands of years, featuring idiosyncratic microclimates and mostly indigenous varietals. For red wine, these are primarily: Sciaccarellu, an early budding varietal, light in color with naturally high alcohol that creates soft, spicy, easy to enjoy red bottlings; and Nielluccio, which was originally a Sangiovese clone brought by the Genoese in the 1200s. Nielluccio is the more important of the two, bringing power and noticeable tannins, color and acidity. Savory flavors of tomato leaf are present, along with a hint of dark cherries and dried herbs. Sciaccarello adds finesse and fleshiness as well as its characteristic violet aromas and red fruit flavors, seasoned with black pepper. These grapes, when blended like in our selection here, usually have a distinct herbal aroma, likened to the aromatic maquis scrub of the island, and similar to the French garrigue.  Finally there is Mallorca, the largest of Spain’s Balearic islands, and almost synonymous in the popular imagination with beach partying revelers from the continent. While all the larger islands in the Mediterranean struggle to achieve a balance between the tourism that buoys the local economy and the local traditions it threatens, the problem is perhaps most visible here, where the permanent population is nine hundred seventy thousand, against some fourteen million visitors each year. Despite a long and proud winemaking tradition,  lately indigenous grape varieties have been uprooted and replaced with international plantings at investor-owned wineries. Vineyard land costs have soared, and luxury homes now stand in the place of old vineyards. The traditional polyculture that once defined the landscape has been paved over to make room for tennis courts.  Fortunately Tomeu Llabrés, our Mallorcan winemaker featured this quarter, embodies a very  obstinate resistance to this trend, producing lovely handmade wine from autochthonous Mallorcan grapes like Mantonegro, featured here. Cheers,  The PlumpJack Wine Team  *Since you asked, my personal favorite/vacation goal is Asinara, whose name is Italian for “Donkey-Inhabited” (though it apparently domiciles a lone human resident per a recent census.) For years, the 52km island was an Italian Alcatraz of sorts, interning POWs during the First World War, and then some of Italy’s most notorious 20th Century criminals. Since 2002 it has been a national park, open to all visitors who wish to check out its  gorgeous beaches, scenic hikes and albino donkey population.  Comte Abbatucci ‘Faustine’ IGP Ile de Beaute 2025 Region/Country of Origin: Corsica, France  About The Winemaker: Considered one of the oldest vineyards in Corsica, Domaine Comte Abbatucci today extends over 21 hectares of granite arenas, in the heart of the Taravo valley in Southern Corsica and at an altitude of about 150 metres. Cultivating the desire to offer the quintessence of each grape variety, of which it possesses an ampelographic collection, initiated by Antoine Abbtucci – Jean-Charles' father – this Corsican winery is in constant evolution, based on a firm commitment to research and innovation.  About the Winemaking: Gravity fed, destemmed and not crushed. Skin maceration in concrete vats and vatting for about 1 month with daily pumping over. Spontaneous fermentation. Dewatering and pressing of the marc, separation of the juices before ageing in a stainless-steel vat for 6 months.Blending, racking and clarifying filtration before bottling. Tasting Notes: Cherry colour and ruby highlights. Nose with notes of red fruits and aromas of wild berries (myrtle), pepper and spices.A complex aromatic palette on the palate with fine, silky tannins for an intense fruity finish Winemaker: Jean-Charles & Faustin Abbatucci  Price per bottle: $48.99 Varietal: 70% Sciaccarellu 30%  Nielluccio Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled meats, cold cuts and Corsican cheese, spicy foods like seafood stew, enchiladas, or curry.  Goes very nicely with tomato based dishes too.  Ca’n Verdura Negre 2025 Region/Country of Origin:  Binnisalem, Mallorca, Spain  About the winemaker: Practicing low-impact viticulture and minimal-intervention winemaking, viticultor Tomeu Llabrés makes wines from a mosaic of old, tiny plots of indigenous Mallorcan varieties.  He maintains cover crops during the cool season and actively encourages biodiversity across his parcels through polyculture.  The soils of Binissalem are cal vermell: red, iron-rich clay-limestone with small to medium-sized galets. These soils are integral to the character of the wines. Only native yeasts are used for fermentation, and the vineyards are farmed without chemical treatments. The Levante winds, blowing across Mallorca from northeast to southwest, provide crucial cooling and natural aeration for disease prevention.His wines are handmade, without additions, subtractions, or corrections, and an uncompromising commitment to terroir transparency. About the Winemaking: After manual harvest in small boxes, the wine is fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks at 24°C, with a maceration of 7-12 days. Roughly a third of it is then aged for five months in 500L French oak barrels, while the other two-thirds is aged in stainless steel for the same period.43% Mantonegro / 33% Syrah / 10% Callet / 8% Merlot / 2% Monastrell / 4% Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyards planted beginning in 1958.  Tasting Notes: This fragrant, Mediterranean red is medium-bodied, with notes of wild red berries, citrus, fresh herbs, and exotic spices. It is fresh, energetic with excellent texture. Winemaker: Tomeu Llabrés Price per bottle: $32.99/ Varietal: 43% Mantonegro / 33% Syrah / 10% Callet / 8% Merlot / 2% Monastrell / 4% Cabernet Sauvignon Suggested Food Pairing: Roast lamb, aged cheeses, Arroz Brut (hearty Mallorcan rice dish with meat, vegetables, and a rich broth with saffron, cinnamon, and pepper.)   Garagisti di Sorgono ‘Manca’ 2019  Region/Country of Origin:  Mandrolisai, Sardinia, Italy About the Winemaker:  Pietro Uras, Simone Murru and Renzo Manca are true “Garagistes”, a french term for a small winegrower making exceptional wines in small batches. The three friends have teamed up to keep the local winemaking traditions alive, and are farming their own vineyards by hand with organic practices. Their vineyards are nothing short of remarkable: they are cultivated on pink/white granite, and have been passed down by their ancestors over the years. The yields are extremely low. A good amount of the vines are over 100 years in age, the majority are 50 or 70 years old. The local varieties are Cannonau, Monica and Muristeddu (aka Bovale Sardo), and while their wines are full bodied and rich, their non interventionist winemaking avoids over extraction and results in brighter, high acid wines that are a pure pleasure to enjoy. About the Winemaking: 100% Cannonau from three single parcels owned and farmed organically by Renzo Manca. The white and pink granite soils provide for a vibrant freshness even if Cannonau’s naturally bold body clocks in at nearly 16% abv. Fermented in stainless steel vats with native yeasts, aged 12 months used French Oak   Tasting Notes: Intensely complex and solidly structured with great balance. This has bright clean flavors of red fruit and a spice and herbal driven finish. Winemaker: Renzo Manca Price per bottle: $40.99 Varietal: Cannonau  Suggested Food Pairing: red meats, Smoked pancetta, sheep cheese Malloreddus with lamb ragu (Sardinian Gnocci) Spaghetti with Sea Urchin  

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June 10, 2026

Red Rogues Q2 2026: Fielder's Choice

Chances are you’ve seen, read or heard the term “field blend” in relation to wine. On one level, its meaning isn't super difficult to parse: a field blend is wine made from at least a few different grapes that share a common habitat - specifically, a field/vineyard, like it says right there in the name. But what distinguishes such a bottling from others, whether single varietal or non-field blends, can be less clear, even though the distinction carries significant implications w/r/t winemaking philosophy, methodology and, perhaps most importantly, in-the-glass experience. So for this installment of Red Rogues we are offering up two outstanding examples of field blends at work (and play) - and one great non-field combo, for contrast. All come from California, as the Golden State is as refulgent a prism as any through which to view this particular hue-niverse (sorry) of (red) fruited plains.  First though, a brief primer on field blends. The vast majority of the blends you drink, including all the most famous (Bordeaux, Cotes du Rhone) are made by taking grapes grown in different varietal-specific vineyard sites, fermenting them separately, and then combining them together to produce the final wine. Field blends on the other hand are a melange, hodgepodge or farrago ( feel free to agglomerate your preferred term) of grapes grown in a single place that are picked and fermented simultaneously. And for most of the history of viticulture, they were very much the norm; until quite recently, farmers had neither the tools nor the time or technology to farm, harvest and vinify grapes from disparate sites. So they planted different grapes for different reasons - some for acidity, some for color, others for ripeness - a method that also provided a kind of insurance against various environmental caprices. If one grape crop was ruined by bad weather, they could use the others, with different ripening schedules, to mitigate the loss. Makes sense.  But in our present epoch of scientific and technological surplus, with the focus on precision, rigorous clonal selection and single varietal expressions, what explains the persistence of the field blend? Well, there are some places - Austria w/ its Gemischter Satz heritage Portugal and its countless native varietals - where the methodology is a long-standing tradition, and its resultant products arguably the quintessential expressions of the local terroir. And while it isn’t immediately apparent that California, renowned for Cab Sauv, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, might be among them, field blends span the entire history of California winemaking, and are experiencing a real renaissance of late. This is perhaps most evident in Zinfandel, maybe the California grape and the predominant ingredient of most of the state’s old vine blends. Field blends are by definition composed of older vines that have survived the mono-varietal takeover; the complexity and balance they can offer makes them an attractive proposition despite the intensive labor their cultivation demands, and the vintage-to-vintage consistency they lack, when compared with single grape bottlings. Anyway, this quarter we are spotlighting three of our favorite such concatenations, made with varying degrees of fealty to the field blend ideal. The Mengler Medley Red Blend is as field blend as it gets, composed of 60+ different varietals from the Algeria vineyard in Russian River Valley. The Mora Estate Valpo features 6 grapes all, except for Cab Franc, from the Veneto region of Italy. While they are all from the same vineyard site, they are not all fermented together. The third selection is a blend of mostly Spanish grapes from different vineyards, by the great Enfield label.  Cheers,  The PlumpJack Wine Team Mengler Medley Red Blend 2022 Region/Country of Origin: Alegria Vineyards, Russian River Valley, Sonoma California  About The Winemaker: Mengler Family Wines was founded in 2014 with a focus on producing vineyard designated, unique and exclusive wines for the purpose of creating memorable wine enjoyment experiences. Family and friends do almost all the work throughout the year on this block from pruning, trimming and leafing all the way to harvesting the grapes by hand in the darkness of night.  About the Winemaking: The winemaking principle is to use all Sonoma County grapes combined with all American Oak using techniques designed to highlight the characteristics of the varietals. This is a true field blend, composed of 60+ varietals.Tasting Notes: Sweetly floral nose of cranberry and raspberry jam leading to medium bodied palate with notes of coconut, red fruit, raspberries and cherry liqueur. Finish is dry but with lush fruit and floral accents.  Winemaker: Chris Mengler Price per bottle: $47.99 Suggested Food Pairing: Red meats, Hearty stews, Grilled Chicken Mora Estate Valpo 2022 Region/Country of Origin:  California  About the winemaker: Fabiano Ramaci, Winemaker and Chef, has been surrounded by wine his entire life. His love of wine and food began at his family’s restaurant, La Traviata, an iconic San Francisco restaurant and a favorite dining room of the opera stars. Fabiano’s dream has always been to create wines in a method that shares a balance of old world and new world, while maintaining the sophistication and elegance of the wine. He is proud to be the only winemaker in California making wine in the Amarone tradition. About the Winemaking: The varieties are harvested together and the marriage of flavors begins at the inception of the wine. About a third of the fruit is placed on drying racks, which are stacked and left to dry for 120 days. The remaining two-thirds of the fruit is fermented on the skins with the lees from the previous vintage of our Amarone. This method, known as ripasso, or double fermentation, adds more structure, body and flavors to the wine. Tasting Notes: Layered, intriguing aromatics of plum, currant and mixed dark berries merge with baking spices and dusty tannins. The palate hosts an array of bright, spicy flavors that linger on. Queen Anne cherry, pomegranate arils, bright strawberry and traces of rhubarb blend with hints of spice in the long finish. Winemaker: Fabiano Ramaci Price per bottle: $42.99 Suggested Food Pairing:  Braised oxtail tortellini with a black truffle sauce, or assorted cheeses with membrillo. Enfield Pretty Horses Red Blend 2022 Region/Country of Origin:  California  About the Winemaker: Enfield Wine Co. is the family project of John Lockwood and Amy Seese, with a focus on producing wines of personality. They do not subscribe to the ideal of the perfect wine, but to the notion that the very best wines tell a unique story. Driven by soil first and foremost, Enfield Wine Co. seeks out vineyards that possess a distinct and powerful sense of place – across region, grape variety, and vine age. Working only with small vineyards and independent growers, every step of the process is guided by the intent to maximize this character of terroir. Grapes are harvested for balance and the wines are all given the chance to ferment naturally. After surviving a summer job in high school hand-weeding grape vines at a winery in Vermont and studying as an apprentice to a Master Luthier (guitar builder) in Oakland, John Lockwood got his start in the California wine industry in 2004 working up at Heron Lake vineyard with David Mahaffey. He went on to work harvests with Ted Lemon at Littorai, Bodega Melipal in Argentina, and Failla Wines with Ehren Jordan where he worked for 5 years farming and managing the Sonoma Coast and Russian River estate vineyards. He started Enfield Wine Co. in 2010 as small side-project while still working at Failla, and in 2013 took the plunge with Enfield as a full time project.About the Winemaking: The grapes were partially de-stemmed into open top fermenters where the grapes were gently foot tread or punched down no more than once a day during a native yeast fermentation. The wine was aged for 11 months in a combination of 500L and 225L French oak barrels, including 10% new.Tasting Notes: Cacao, black cherry, sassafras, rock salt, star anise, deep umami and a mouth coating finish. Winemaker: John Lockwood Price per bottle: $29.99 Suggested Food Pairing:  Paella, Grilled Lamb, or Lasagna  

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March 7, 2026

Red Rogues Quarter 1: Kira Ballotta

For our first release of the year we will be focusing on the wines of Kira Ballotta. A fifth generation Californian from Sacramento, Kira’s love for economics and dream of working on Wall Street led her to the University of Washington, where she interned with Goldman Sachs and received a degree in finance. After graduation, she developed an interest in wine while analyzing winery M&A projects for an investment bank. This curiosity regarding the “goings-on” (in Kira’s words) behind the spreadsheet numbers led to a job with Constellation Brands, the parent company of labels such as The Prisoner, Booker, Sea Smoke, Lingua Franca, and Robert Mondavi Winery. While initially still on the finance side, Kira spent her spare time in Napa, doing cellar work with David Mahaffey for his small label, Olivia Brion. She grew to love the winemaking side, and quit her job to work harvest for The Prisoner, which led to an internship at Quintessa. She also studied microbiology and organic chemistry at UC Berkeley, and worked harvest abroad with Mollydooker in Australia. Upon returning from the latter, she landed a job at Alpha Omega as a production assistant, helping to kickstart the Two Squared line of wines. As Mahaffey planned his retirement, Kira took over the brand fully in 2019, and in 2021 she started her own brand Cantadora. She found that, while people enjoyed the stories of important women from the past that were told through Olivia Brion, she wanted to celebrate the achievements of modern trailblazing women. For the inaugural Cantadora bottling, Kira chose Sonia Melara, co-founder of La Casa Los Madres, the oldest domestic violence shelter in California (and a place where Kira had done volunteer work), as inspiration and label subject. She also donated 10% of the wine’s sales to the organization, a tradition that continues with every wine, woman and organization in the line. This, along with her focus on organically farmed sites, led to Kira’s inclusion in the Imbibe Magazine’s list, “75 Who Will Determine Food & Drinks in 2024 and Beyond”. Cheers! - Justin Malesheetz, Fillmore Wine Buyer Olivia Brion 2021 Willowside Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Region/Country of Origin: Russian River Valley AVA, CA  About the Winemaking: 100% Pinot Noir from Willowside Vineyard west of Santa Rosa. Aged for 21 months in a combination of 20% new French oak and 80% neutral French oak. Tasting Notes: Medium ruby in the glass, with a heady nose of pomegranate, mushrooms, cola, and dark cherry. Full bodied with silky tannins and balanced acidity, this is a dark fruited and immediately enjoyable wine that still has the complexity to pair well with food. Flavors of dark cherry, pomegranate, and cocoa with a licorice note on the ripe dark fruited finish. Winemaker: Kira Ballotta Price per bottle: $49.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: Roast chicken or duck, smoked ham, teriyaki miso salmon Olivia Brion 2022 “Vie d’Espionnage” Shake Ridge Ranch Mourvedre Region/Country of Origin: Amador County AVA, CA About the vineyards: Organically farmed Shake Ridge Ranch sits at 1500 feet elevation in the Sierra Foothills, northeast of Sacramento. This site experiences warm days and very cool nights with an Alpine Influence dominating. The soil is a blend of Volcanic, Quarzite and Alluvial. The site is farmed by Ann Kraemer, a renowned viticulturist with over 25 years of experience managing vineyards and consulting for such wineries as Domaine Chandon, Cain, Calera, Hobbs, and Shafer before buying 34 acres in Amador County in the early 00’s and planting Zinfandel, Petite Syrah, Barbera, Tempranillo, and Rhone varieties in 2003 and an additional 12 acres planted in 2009. About the Winemaking: 100% Mourvedre aged for 21 months in neutral French oak Tasting Notes: A deep ruby in the glass with a dark savory nose bringing to mind red plum, fresh dark berries, and meaty iron notes. On the fuller side of medium bodied with firm tannins and bright acidity, this wine sings with fresh red and black fruit flavors along with a dark mineral character rounded out with savory herb and meaty notes on the finish. Winemaker: Kira Ballotta Price per bottle: $38.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: sauteed mushrooms, pot roast, smoked cheddar, baba ganoush, lentils Cantadora 2021 “The Energizer for the Ages” Shake Ridge Ranch Rhone Blend  Region/Country of Origin: Amador County AVA, CA About the Vineyards: Organically farmed Shake Ridge Ranch sits at 1500 feet elevation in the Sierra Foothills, northeast of Sacramento. This site experiences warm days and very cool nights with an Alpine Influence dominating. The soil is a blend of Volcanic, Quarzite and Alluvial. The site is farmed by Ann Kraemer, a renowned viticulturist with over 25 years of experience managing vineyards and consulting for such wineries as Domaine Chandon, Cain, Calera, Hobbs, and Shafer before buying 34 acres in Amador County in the early 00’s and planting Zinfandel, Petite Syrah, Barbera, Tempranillo, and Rhone varieties in 2003 and an additional 12 acres planted in 2009. About the Winemaking: 40% Grenache, 40% Mourvèdre and 20% Syrah aged for 20 months in 20% new French oak. Tasting Notes: Deep violet with a nose of garrigue, graphite , black plum, and dark berries. Medium bodied and plush with firm tannins and balanced acidity frame flavors of black plum, chocolate covered berries, and a savory finish.  Winemaker: Kira Ballotta Price per bottle: $39.99+tax  Suggested Food Pairing: carnitas, roasted peppers, beef stew,   

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November 14, 2025

Quarter 4 Red Rogues: Wines for the Holidays

As the days grow shorter and the few weeks of warm weather we have here in San Francisco fade away, we get into the winter season, one of my favorite times of the year as a fan of cardigans, sweaters, and red wines of all shades and flavors. This combined with the various holidays makes it the perfect time to whip up some hearty comfort food and share a bottle with friends and family. This quarter, we have a trio of wines that, while not your standard wines found on the table, will pair wonderfully with all your holiday fare, whether it be roasts, turkey, pozole, roasted vegetables, or roast duck. Nestled in the south, surrounded by the Black Forest Range to the east and running along the Rhine River from the French/Swiss border to the west, the state of Baden-Württemberg is one of the sunniest regions in Germany, consistently producing quality red wines for over a millennium. Until recently, Germany was known mostly for its age-worthy white wines, both sweet and dry, but with climate change, the country is increasingly recognized for its dry reds. These two regions, with their high elevations and warmer climates (relative to the rest of Germany), are similar to the Loire Valley, Alsace, and Champagne, and have been leading the charge in this regard for decades. Both produce a greater amount of red wine than most German regions. Württemberg is planted with around 70% red wine grapes, predominantly the lighter-bodied Schiava grape, known here as Trollinger, which migrated from its home in Northern Italy in the 14th century. After World War Two, the regions which had been independent German states were merged and split between French and American occupation. For most of the 20th century, the local wines suffered from the same poor reputation as most of Germany’s output, producing light, semi-sweet, and undistinguished bottlings, apart from a few producers. This started to change towards the end of the century with more vintners focusing on quality dry wines. These days, the wines of Württemberg are good enough to garner recognition, despite the fact that most never leave Germany and many are consumed within the state itself. In Eastern France, at equal distance from both Beaune and Geneva, is Arbois, the heart of red wine in the Jura. One of the first 6 regions designated as an AOC in 1936, this mountainous alpine region is known for its quality red wines made from a blend of Pinot Noir, Trousseau, and Poulsard (known here as Ploussard, a thin-skinned grape known for its light color and soft tannins that creates wine with an earthy perfume). A compound of the Celtic words “ar” and “bos”, meaning “fertile land”, Arbois is the largest and oldest appellation in the area, with 850 hectares of vineyards dedicated to 70% red varietals planted on limestone and dark grey shale comprised of silica and clay. While wine has been made in the Jura since the 1st century AD, it wasn’t until the Middle Ages that winemaking truly flourished as monasteries cultivated vineyards and Benedictine monks documented the winemaking practices that are still used in the region today. By the 18th century, quality started to flag, leading to a special decree restricting the number of grape varieties permitted and marking the beginning of qualitative regulation. By 1774, a list of 14 good varieties for wine production was officially sanctioned. It was this selection that helped secure the quality of the Jura’s wines and further boost their reputation. From the French Revolution until the end of the 19th century, the wine region evolved steadily, with a focus on lowering yields. In the last few decades, Jura has become a beacon for low-intervention winemaking, respect for the environment and sustainability.  Over the years, the AOC has updated the specifications for viticulture, making it a requirement for there to be grass around vinefields, and producers often use minimal or no sulfur and no additives.  The origins of California wine are rooted in Spanish history. Spanish grapes first arrived in what was then Alta California with the Franciscan padres, including Father Junipero Serra, in the late 1700s. They planted Listán Prieto (aka the Mission grape) throughout Southern and Central California. As Catholics, the Spanish valued grapes and red wine as essential symbols in both their rituals and culture. The padres became known for cultivating drought-tolerant, hedge-pruned vines, and their viticultural techniques and tools were passed down to California’s early grape growers. While the Mission grape fared poorly in the cooler areas around Mission San José and Mission Santa Cruz, it thrived in the warmer regions of the Central Valley and Sonoma. By the mid-19th century, nurseries were propagating vines from across Europe. Italian and Spanish varieties flourished in the state’s warm, Mediterranean climate. The Gold Rush brought waves of immigrants eager to slake their thirst with the oceans of wine produced in Santa Clara, Napa, the Central Valley, and Sonoma. Between 1850 and 1890, wine production ramped up across the state as settlers and viticultural pioneers began importing cuttings. As a result, wineries sprang up throughout the state in the late 19th century. Although the 1970s and 1980s saw a rise in Mediterranean plantings used for quality winemaking, it wasn’t until the 1990s and early 2000s that winemakers and enthusiasts began to rediscover the hidden gems scattered throughout the state. While Spanish varieties are steadily gaining attention, they still make up only a small portion of California’s vineyards compared to classic French grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Cheers, Justin Malesheetz- Wine Buyer Fillmore 2022 Aldinger “Nashorn” Lemberger Region / Country of Origin: Württemberg, DE About the winery: With a history dating back to 1492, the Aldingers were known for generations as coopers and wine-growers. It wasn’t until 1955, when Gerhard Aldinger married Anneliese Pflüger and converted his father-in-law's existing cooperage into a full-scale winery, that the family started focusing on winemaking. The next step towards higher quality wines came in 1974 with the purchase of the nearby Untertürkheimer Gips on the site of a former gypsum mine. Its soils are similar to those found in Alsace, leading to more mineral-driven wines. Under Gert Aldinger's oversight starting in the late 80s, international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot were planted while yields were reduced, which rapidly defined a new, distinctive, and mineral-driven style of wine. The estate’s other prime vineyard is the Fellbacher Lämmler, a cooler site with marl soils. Together with his sons, Hansjörg and Matthias, the house has gained wide acclaim, earning the highest grades from a range of Germany’s most prestigious wine publications. Winemaking Notes: 100% Lemberger (the local name for Blaufränkisch) is hand harvested and partially destemmed before fermentation in barrel for 3 weeks.  After Malolactic fermentation is completed, the wine is aged for 4 months in used barrique. The wine is filtered but left unfined. Tasting Notes: Violet in the glass with a heady nose of green pepper, potpourri, fresh raspberry, and dried cranberry.  Medium-bodied and dry, with a round creaminess to the palate with firm tannins and bright acidity to match, this wine brings to mind the more structured end of Cru Beaujolais (think the wines of Cote de Brouilly, Morgon, and Moulin-a-Vent) with flavors of dusty red fruit and blackberry with a mineral finish that lingers with a mint tea like note. Winemaker: Matthias Aldinger Price per bottle: $27.99 bt/$302.30l Suggested Food Pairing: smoked ham, roast pork, duck, aged cheddar, venison stew, grilled lamb 2023 Joseph Dorbon “Les Bernardines” Vieilles Vignes Arbois Rouge Region / Country of Origin: Vadans, Arbois, Jura FR About the winemaker: Joseph Dorbon began working as a vigneron in 1996. He works three hectares of vineyards situated in the tiny village (only 300 residents) of Vadans just north of Arbois and across the Route Nationale from the fabled town of Montigny-les-Arsures. The vines are hillside plantings, southeast facing, at approximately 1,000 feet of altitude (322 meters). Dorbon works his vineyards following the best ecological practices and is now on the path towards organic certification. He turns the soil just twice a year, the second time in June with the aid of a horse, a difficult and little-encountered practice which he learned from his uncle—and harvests by hand. Between ploughings, vegetation is largely left to grow between the vineyard rows with the weeding done only underneath and immediately around individual vines.  The wines are made with minimal intervention in a subterranean 16th century cellar. After 30 years of making wine, Dorbon officially retired in 2023, passing the domain to his nephew, Pierre Laporte. Winemaking Notes: 75% Poulsard and 25% Pinot Noir from 60-year-old vines grown on a mix of clay and limestone soils in an organically farmed vineyard in Vadans named after the Bernardine order of Cistercian monks who stewarded the land during the Middle Ages.  The grapes are destemmed and co-fermented in stainless steel tanks before being moved to 228-liter used Burgundy barrels to age for 18–24 months on their fine lees.  Tasting Notes: Pale crimson in the glass with a chalky mineral character framing notes of strawberry, potpourri, and juicy red cherry on the nose.  On the lighter side of medium-bodied with light tannins and a softness on the palate balanced by vibrant acidity and concentrated flavors of bright strawberry, cherry hard candy, and a light earthy floral character rounding out the finish.   Winemakers: Pierre Laporte Price per bottle:  $53.99bt/$583.10csl Suggested Food Pairing: herb stuffing with apples, tuna steaks, baked salmon, carpaccio, cured meats 2023 Orixe Sotelo “En Vaso” Tempranillo Region / Country of Origin:  Sonoma, CA USA About the Winemaker:  Orixe Sotelo is the passion project of husband and wife team Gustavo and Jackie Sotelo.  Originally from Mexico City, Gustavo has spent over 15 years working in such wineries as Etude, Mumm, Bodegas Mauro (the personal project of Mariano Garcia, who had been winemaker at the legendary Vega Sicilia for 30 years), and finally Scribe, where he is the current Director of Winemaking. Jackie, a UC Berkeley graduate with a certificate from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has spent an equal amount of time working on the marketing and sales side of wine with such wineries as Ashes & Diamonds and Bedrock Wine Co. Their focus is on Spanish varietals as they believe these grapes are best suited for the climate of California. About the Winemaking: 100% Tempranillo from Don Miguel Vineyard at Marimar Estate in Sebastopol. Named after Marimar’s late father and former President of Familia Torres of Penedès Miguel Torres, the vineyard was originally planted in the late 1980s with Chardonnay and Pinot the Tempranillo was planted in 2004.  This wine is fermented with 50% whole clusters which were foot tread before being added to the destemmed fruit. The wine was fermented for 14 days with multiple pumpovers and punch-downs midway through fermentation to invert the cap and submerge the whole clusters. The free run and pressings were combined, settled for 48 hours after pressing and then racked into neutral 60-gallon barrels. The wine was racked once after malolactic fermentation and aged for a total of 10 months in a barrel prior to bottling. Tasting Notes: Medium ruby in the glass with a deep savory floral nose of potting soil, hibiscus, dried dark flowers, red plum, and luxardo cherries.  Full-bodied with vibrant acidity and smooth tannins, this brooding wine is bursting with flavors of cherry liquor, ripe blackberry, mushroom, and graphite with a dry earthy finish. Winemaker: Gustavo Sotelo Price per bottle: $41.99bt/$453.50l  Suggested Food Pairing: Pot roast, leaner cuts of beef, beef wellington, stuffed mushrooms

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August 31, 2025

Red Rogues Q3 2025: Santa Cruz Mountains

Santa Cruz Mountain AVA      The Santa Cruz Mountains comprise some of the most important places in California wine history. While Napa and Sonoma are more famous today, this rugged, alpine region, with vineyards planted above the fogline, has long crafted some of the best juice the Golden State can produce. There’s even a plausible alternate timeline where the area takes center stage from the start: Count Agostin Harazthy, often called “the father of California Wine”,  planted his original vineyard up there. He broke ground too far north though, and when the cold foggy weather prevented his grapes from fully ripening, he sold the land, relocated to Sonoma and started Buena Vista Winery in the early 1860s. The rest is the history that you can read on the Buena Vista website or visit in their museum.        Viticulture in the area dates back to the beginning of the 19th century -  the first grapes were planted in Mission Santa Cruz between 1804 and 1807, just east of UC Santa Cruz -  but these initial attempts did not yield the best results. The Mission grape,  a descendent of the Listan Prieto varietal from La Mancha, now grown mostly in the Canary Islands and South America, turned out harsh, bitter wines in the cool climate.  Most of the mountains were not planted to vine until the 1850s, when large swathes of redwood were cut down and farmers moved in, planting  vegetables and fruits, with grapes being favored for their ability to adapt to the rugged mountain terrain. The first commercial vineyards were established in 1853 by Scottish immigrant Jon Burns, who named his plot Ben Lomond after an old wine district in Scotland.  Along with John and George Jarvis in nearby Scotts Valley, he became a pillar of the county's wine industry, which by 1875 was pumping out 70,000 gallons of wine, mostly derived from the Mission grape, and bottled young so it could be rushed to market.  This lack of quality control, along with the  global depression triggered by the Panic of 1873, and the spread of Phylloxera throughout Europe and California, led to a global crash of the wine market, forcing many wineries in California and elsewhere to close and uproot vineyards.       The mid 1880s saw the rise of multiple figures who would help bring a  focus on quality farming and winemaking to the region. Emmet H. Rixford, Professor of Surgery at Stanford University, planted 37 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in Woodside, CA overlooking Redwood City and wrote the seminal guide The Wine Press and the Cellar: A Manual for the Wine-Maker and the Cellar-Man in 1883, detailing techniques used in Europe used to produce high quality wine like Château Margaux.  Henry and Nellie Mel were French immigrants who bought one of the properties owned by the Jarvis brothers and planted the state's first Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon.  Dr. John A. Stewart, a Scotsman who came to the area in 1883, replicated the practices of the best French vineyards of the time by blending varietals, something that at this point was a fairly new concept in California.       Then there was Paul Masson. Born into a well-heeled winemaking family near Beaune, he moved to California after Phylloxera devastated the French wine industry to work with Charles LeFranc at the Almaden Winery in nearby San Jose. LeFranc himself worked at Almaden and married into the family of founder Etienne Thee and is credited with planting the first cuttings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon in California, brought over from France.  Masson married Charles' eldest daughter and became famous for the sparkling “Champagne” made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from vineyards in Saratoga.  Wines from the area started to gain international acclaim, winning awards at the World’s Fairs throughout the 1890s and into the early 1900s.      Prohibition brought a halt to all of this, with vineyards uprooted (again!) and most wineries were forced to shutter their doors or make sacramental wine. The seeds of the area's history were able to live on thanks largely to the work of a protégée of Paul Masson, the infamous Martin Ray. As the late LA wine writer and educator Roy Brady wrote of Ray, “Martin was a colorful character when California badly needed one. He was a boon to the industry, though many in it would have preferred him to have been a boon elsewhere. He was flamboyant, vocal, outrageous, bombastic, imperious, opinionated, unreasonable.”        Indeed, Martin was dogmatic in his quest for quality, keeping yields low and refusing to irrigate in the vineyard; he barrel fermented and aged the wines in oak before bottling unfined and unfiltered;  he held bottles back until he believed they were ready for sale. This kind of iconoclasm didn’t endear him to many, but was crucial to achieving his goal of producing world class wine to rival the best of Europe and recall Santa Cruz’s prior fin de siècle apogee. In 1943, having already worked, bought and sold  Paul Masson’s vineyard,  Ray purchased the first parcel of what would be Mount Eden Vineyards, 2000 ft up above the Santa Clara Valley. There, he planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines from cuttings taken from Masson's La Cresta Vineyard, (which itself had been planted from Burgundian cuttings said to have been taken from Paul Masson’s friend Louis Latour) as well as Cabernet Sauvignon from the La Questa Vineyard originally planted by Emmet Rixford in Woodside.  Around the same time period, Dr. William Short bought and revamped a vineyard near the top of Monte Bello Ridge in the 1940s that had originally been planted in 1885.  By the late 1940s he had replanted several parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon, which three engineers from the Stanford Research Institute, who had recently purchased the property, used to make the first Ridge “Estate” Cabernet.       These efforts set the stage for a renaissance for the region in the 1960’s and 70’s, as new growers and winemakers in the region like Dr. David Bruce and Kathryn Kennedy brought worldwide recognition to the area. In 1976 at the famous ‘Judgement of Paris’, two of the 11 wines chosen to represent California's best were from the Santa Cruz Mountains, and placed 5th (Ridge) and 10th (David Bruce.) Then, at a re-tasting held  in 2006, the 1971 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon took the #1 spot.       Even with all the acclaim, the AVA remains something of a hermit by California wine standards. Though it covers over 100 miles and 400,000 acres, from Half Moon Bay in the north to the peak of Mount Madonna in the south, only 1,500 of the latter are planted to vine, farmed by just 90  growers and wineries, most of which are 20 or more miles away from each other. (Paso Robles has over 200, by comparison.) Viticulture here continues to be a very high-risk/high reward venture. The challenges, including and on top of the cold weather,  are numerous: Irrigation water is very limited or nonexistent; birds (all vineyards must be netted), deer (all vineyards must be fenced) and gophers are ever-present; the ever present risk of fires - the CZU Lightning Complex fire of 2020 destroyed over 86,500 acres of land  between Santa Cruz and San Mateo counties; with the skilled labor is hard to find; and disease pressure, particularly downy mildew, powdery mildew and botrytis is ever-present. Historically, grapes ripened in only three out of every ten vintages. The land, being so close to Silicon Valley, is also very expensive, which raises the prices of grapes and winemaking facilities in the region as well.       The rewards are (hopefully) self-evident in your glasses this go round, and the result of extremely unique, ‘unicorn’ terroir created by eons of geologic upheaval, that is very much ongoing. The San Andreas Fault in particular, has churned up and exposed marine sediment at the edge of the Pacific Plate which would be otherwise inaccessible. The diverse soils and various micro-climates allow for the growing of Burgundian and Bordeaux varietals alike, and yield elegant and subtle wines, lower in alcohol and with more expressive minerality than the familiar Napa and Sonoma archetypes. These days, both the old guard and the new school are up to awesome things, and we have examples of each here to show why this region - remote and yet so close to home -  deserves our respect and attention. Cheers, Justin Malesheetz - Wine Buyer, Fillmore  2021 McHenry Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir “Swan Clone” Region / Country of Origin: Ben Lomond Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Founded in the early 1970s with the goal of planting a vineyard as near as they could get to where UC Davis scientists had discovered an area ideal for growing Pinot Noir, UC Santa Cruz's founding Chancellor, Dean E. McHenry, along with his wife Jane, son Henry, and daughter-in-law Linda planted 4 acres. Linda, a trained viticulturist from UC Davis, tended the vineyard while Henry, a Paleontologist and retired professor at UC Davis, learned winemaking from his colleagues.  The vineyard and winery are now run by the third generation with their daughter Annalisa McHenry, a schoolteacher in Oakland, and her partner Brandon Blanchard, along with their cousins Ian McHenry and Henry. About the Vineyard: The former Christmas tree farm sits 5 miles east and 1,800 ft. above the Pacific Ocean in the Santa Cruz Mountains, just north of the small town of Bonny Doon, CA. The dry-farmed vineyard is on a sandy slope, surrounded by redwood forest. About the Winemaking: 100% Pinot Noir from a block planted from cuttings taken from Joseph Swan’s vineyard in the Russian River Valley aged for almost 2 years in 60 gallon French oak. Tasting Notes: Pale dark crimson in the glass with an earthy savory nose swirling with notes of rhubarb, mushroom, wild strawberry, red cherry, and blood orange.  The wine is built for the long haul, with a spine of vibrant acidity and grippy tannins and flavors of cherry liquor, cranberry, and long herbaceously floral finish.  Decant an hour before drinking. Winemaker: Henry McHenry Price per bottle / Price per case: $40.99 per bottle Suggested Food Pairing:  Deep fried turkey,  roast chicken,  seared tuna 2021 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Zayante Vineyard Syrah Region / Country of Origin:  Santa Cruz Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard was founded by Ken Burnap, a Texan with a love of wine who had moved to Southern California and spent his free time traveling around Northern California looking for the best places for Pinot Noir to grow. In 1974, he believed he had found one such place and purchased a vineyard in Santa Cruz County with the goal of making a world-class pinot.  For 2 years, he commuted between Orange County and Santa Cruz before pulling up stakes and committing fully to making wine, at first only making Pinot Noir, but eventually expanding to Cabernet Sauvignon and.  In 2002, Ken retired and passed the business on to his longtime apprentice and collaborator, Jeff Emery. About the vineyards: Planted at nearly 1200 ft elevation and certified organic, Zayante is a small family owned vineyard that has been producing grapes for over 140 years. For the last 45 years it has been producing Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera and Grenache from own-rooted and dry farmed vines grown on rolling sandstone hills. About the Winemaking: 100% Syrah destemmed and aged for 2 years and 7 months in a combination of new and used French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Tasting Notes: A deep violet in the glass with a rich savory nose evocative of classic Northern Rhone syrah with a nose of candied violets, peppery charcuterie, graphite, fresh potting soil, and eucalyptus. A bright, expressive medium bodied wine on the palate with vibrant acidity and grippy tannins framing waves of dusty black plum and fresh dark berries finishing with a long, richly floral dry finish. Winemaker: Jeff Emery Price per bottle / Price per case: $43.99 per bottle Suggested Food Pairing:  Lamb shanks,  kabab koobideh 2016 Lexington Wine Co. Gist Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Region / Country of Origin:  Santa Cruz Mountain AVA, CA USA About the winery: Originally envisioned by Thomas Fogarty and Michael Martella out of a love for the Bordeaux styled wines made by Ridge and Mount Eden in the 1970s, they knew the land they were working with was too cold to do the varieties justice, but vowed to one day plant a vineyard to the classic Bordeaux grapes. In 2000 Thomas Fogarty Jr. and current winemaker Nathan Kandler accomplished this goal. About the vineyard: Gist Ranch vineyard is located on the Pacific Plate in Santa Cruz County at an elevation of 2,400ft 17 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Planted by the Fogarty family in 2000, the vines are densely planted, decreasing the spacing between vines to make the vines compete for resources which can create smaller more concentrated berries, and utilise organic and sustainable farming practices. Tasting Notes: A deep ruby with aromas of tobacco, truffle, licorice, baking chocolate, and a melange of fresh and dried dark fruit.  While the nose prepares you for a dense powerful wine, the palate is surprisingly fresh and lithe, which feels a good deal lighter than its stated 14.5%.  Bright acidity with tannins that while softened with age still have a persistence to them are accompanied by flavors of fresh blackberries, black cherry, and plum on a long fresh berry finish. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc. Winemaker: Nathan Kandler Price per bottle / Price per case: $90 per bottle from the winery. Click here and enter the word fogarty to see special pricing Suggested Food Pairing:  Steak of any kind,  roast duck  

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June 12, 2025

Red Rogues Q2 2025 - España Verde

If you love red wine, chances are you love Spain. And vice-versa - it’s almost impossible to imagine even the shortest visit w/out vino roja. Indeed, just add an “i” to that Spanish word for red, and you arrive at Rioja, the north central area known for the eponymous reds made mostly from Tempranillo and aged in American oak, that are probably Spain’s most famous viticultural export. (They are the best-selling.) But every one of Spain’s 17 autonomous communities makes wine, the country has more acreage under vine - around 3 million - than any other place on earth. In other words, no matter how many times you return, there is always more Spain-splaining left to do. This quarter it is España Verde’s (Green Spain) turn to talk. Yet another example of Spain’s knack for awesome toponymy (see: Castille y Leon or Castle & Lion), España Verde is a handkerchief folded into the country’s north-western pocket square, following Atlantic coast from the Portuguese border in the south to the Iberian peninsula’s northmost promontory at the the Punta da Escata des Barres, before curving inland across the provinces of Asturias and Cantabria, and terminating at Bilbao and the beginning of Basque Country. This is, as you’d expect from the sobriquet, lush, verdant country with a temperate climate and considerable annual precipitation. (The rain in Spain falls mainly - you guessed it!) It also feels a world away from the España of yore - less bullfighters, flamenco dancing and sunkissed beaches, more Scotland south: Celtic heritage, bagpipes, rain. So it’s no surprise the wine scene is similarly distinctive (without being like the haggis of Spain or anything.) In addition to the aforementioned Asturias and Cantabria, España Verde encompasses Galicia, which boasts the most Atlantic coastline, and is responsible for Albariño, arguably Spain’s most well-known white grape. In Galicia alone, the reds run a veritable Pamplona (actually located just east of Cantabria in Navarre) of styles and varietals from lean, vegetal reds made from grapes like Caíño and Espadeiro in Rías Baixas on the coast to more muscular and toned bottlings from Brancellao and Sousón in Ribeiro, further inland to Mencía and Merenzao in Ribeira Sacra, to even some Tempranillo (known here as Araúxa) in Monterrei. And this doesn’t even cover producers working completely outside the appellation system.  Moreover, its not just the grapes that distinguish the area from the rest of Spain: the variegated nature of the landscape means many growers work with multiple minifundios (small holdings), each with its own exposure, elevation, soil makeup, and grape varieties. The piecemeal nature of viticulture here means that wines are more likely to be shaped by terroir than by a specific house style or winemaking formula. Even within a single region, there are very different expressions. In Ribeira Sacra, wines from central, south-facing Amandi show clear differences from Atlantic, west-facing Ribeiras do Miño. In Ribeiro, grapes grown in the cooler, fresher, Avia Valley will show differently from the warmer, flatter Val do Miño. One parcel may give you ripe fruit, while another might be more floral and delicate, and another might be vegetal and crunchy.  So here are three outstanding examples of España Verde’s emerald plenty, a viticultural renaissance that is in full swing as we speak, arguably the envy of every other (less) green winemaking world right now, definitely a seed from which to expect many more sprouts in the future.  Augalevada ‘Mercenario’ Tinto 2020  Region / Country of Origin: Ribeiro, Spain  About the winery: Iago Garrido may be destined to become one of Spain’s most influential winegrowers. In 2014 this former professional soccer player buried an amphora filled with Treixadura in the middle of his granite vineyard inside Ribeiro’s Avia River Valley. Initially convinced he had made a mistake with the discovery of a flor yeast veil, he later realized this errant shot actually hit a vein of gold that went on to define the direction of his wines. What makes Iago’s wines special is not only that he welcomes the influence of flor, or that he is committed to biodynamic practices in his cellar and the vineyards he owns and the ones he works directly himself, and to only using a minuscule dose of sulfur in his wines, it’s his razor-sharp attention to detail coupled with his openness to take in the ideas and opinions of others. His creative range is focused on indigenous Galician varieties with many different bottlings.  About the Vineyards: Mercenario Tinto is a blend of young and old vines of Caiño Longo, Brancellao, Espadeiro and Sousón from organic and sustainably farmed vineyards in the three unofficial Ribeiro subzones Arnoia, Avia, and Miño, at 100-300m on mostly granite and gneiss bedrock with sand and clay topsoil derived from the bedrock.  Winemaking: Whole cluster, 35-day natural fermentation with gentle extractions. Aged partially under flor for 10 months in 1/3 in amphora and 2/3 in 500/600l old barrels. Sulfites are added only at bottling. Unfined and unfiltered.  Tasting Notes: Caiño Longo is highly aromatic, fresh and of medium structure. Its alcohol content is usually around 12%, maintaining a good acidity. Espadeiro and Sousón are sometimes referred to as “beauty and beast”. Espadeiro leads with aromas closer to the red and slightly orange fruit and dried flower side, while Sousón has big tannin, big acid, big color, and low alcohol potential. Winemaker: Iago Garrido Price per bottle / Price per case: $32.99/$356.30  Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled Meats Roasted Vegetables Aged Cheeses Pablo Soldavini ‘Lurpia’ Tinto 2022  Region / Country of Origin:  Ribeira Sacra, Spain About the winery: Argentine national, Pablo Soldavini, returned to his ancestral home in Castro Caldelas inside Galicia’s Ribeira Sacra in the early 2010s. He has influenced many fellow winegrowers with his extraordinary, intuitive ability to understand the nature of any particular terroir and maximize its potential. Today, Pablo has dropped his winemaker consulting life to focus on his own projects based in Ribeira Sacra’s Ribeiras do Sil subzone with indigenous variety vineyards set at high altitudes in a largely abandoned viticultural area. Everything is done by hand with great care and a gentle approach with natural yeasts, hand harvesting and varying degrees of stem inclusion, gentle extraction (almost infusion), aging in steel or old oak and very little in the way of added sulfites.  About the vineyards: Soldavini “Lurpia” is harvested from 10-year-old Brancellao grown in the Ribeira Sacra subzone “Quiroga-Bibei” with an NW exposure on a soft slope of gneiss and slate bedrock and sandy/loamy topsoil at 440m. Fun Fact: “Lurpia” is a word of Galician origin which means evil and mean-spirited woman who gets into trouble for others. It is also used as a synonym for witch.  About the Winemaking: Brancellao (bron-suh-YOW) is one of the commonly found native red varieties in Galicia. It is highly resistant to Botrytis but does not have much resistance to mildew or oidium and was nearly wiped out during the powdery mildew plague of the mid-19th century. Luckily, the grape has made a comeback and is the fourth most-grown Galician red grape. It produces medium bodied wines with medium tannins and high acidity. The wine is naturally fermented with 100% whole cluster, 50% carbonic maceration, infusion extraction, at 18°C max for 7 days and aged 10 months in old 500 and 300 liters French oak barrels. Unfiltered and unfined.  Tasting Notes: Subtle floral aromas as well as notes of red fruits, sweet spices, licorice and pine. Medium tannins and lots of acidity, with red fruit and herbaceous notes on the palate. Elegant and aromatic; a great summertime red. Winemaker: Pablo Soldavini  Price per bottle / Price per case: $52.99/$572.30 Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled Steak Roasted Vegetables Dark Chocolate  Fazenda Agricola Pradio Menica 2021  Region / Country of Origin:  Ribeira Sacra, Spain About the winery: Xabi Soeanes is in love with his Galician countryside, and he’s even more taken in by its nearly forgotten past. His greatest desire, his dream, is to share this cultural treasure with the world, through the lens of his varietally blended wines—the historical winegrowing practice of this area. Fazenda Prádio (named after a local tree known as a false maple, or sycamore) is located within the Chantada subzone, one of the coldest of Ribeira Sacra, heavily influenced by the Atlantic. His 3.5ha of vines, a collection of Mencía, Caíño Longo, Merenzao, Brancellao, Godello, and other indigenous varieties, are perched on wide terraces between 180-300m that overlook the Miño River gorge and are carved out of a steep hill split with granite and schist. Xabi practiced organic and biodynamic farming for years but after a series of seasons that almost put him out of business, he keeps the door open to move freely when needed.  About the vineyards: Surrounded by indigenous forests on all sides but the river side and influenced by both oceanic and continental weather, Pradio’s vines were planted in the early 2000s on south/southeast-facing terraced slope of granite and schist at 190-240m overlooking the Miño River.  About the Winemaking: This 100% Mencia (men-THEE-yuh) is hand harvested, fully destemmed, and naturally fermented for 7-10 days in granite lagars (stone vats). The wine is gravity fed into older French oak barrels (mostly 500L with a few smaller sizes 300L and 225L) prior to pressing the pomace. The wines are usually racked and sulfured after malolactic and again at bottling with a total of between 30-50 ppm of sulfites  Tasting Notes: Black and red fruit aromas like raspberries, blackberries, red cherries, and delicate floral notes mingle with earthy, vegetal notes and hints of black pepper. Fresh and fruity, although with some earthiness gives a good depth of flavor and complexity. A sensual and aromatic wine with a fine mouthfeel of good natural acidity and minimal tannins.  Winemaker: Xabi Soeanes Price per bottle / Price per case: $30.99/$334.70 Suggested Food Pairing:  White meats,  legumes,  spicy dishes with lamb,  rice dishes  

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March 29, 2025

Q1 Red Rogues 2025

Viva Mexico Besides being tendentious and all kinds of historically problematic, the wine world’s anachronistic tic of bifurcating itself  into “Old” and “New” makes increasingly little sense in just plain descriptive terms. Viticulture in the Americas dates at least back to the 16th century; due to Europe’s 19th century Phylloxera apocalypse, many of the world’s oldest vines are located here. And while some countries in Europe (Italy, France) maintain rigorous and sometimes incomprehensible quality control standards, others are far more open ended. Today, the places with the strongest claims to “world’s earliest wine scene” - Georgia, Armenia - are in fact amongst the most free-form when it comes to production methods. (And that’s without even getting into who -  or what - first invented wine.  Here’s the ”Drunken Monkey” hypothesis  for the curious.)  So where does that leave Mexico? In terms of its wine scene, the country has never been more proudly, conspicuously, fascinatingly,  deliciously - itself. The original setting for Vitis Vinifera growth in the Western Hemisphere is now arguably the site of its brightest future. This quarter we have three examples of all the great things happening south of the Rio Grande at the moment, excavations from a long and distinguished lineage, and samples of awesome stuff to come. But first, here’s a brief primer on how we got here.  Upon vanquishing the Aztecs in 1521, the villainous Cortez the Killer decreed that every person around plant 10 vines, which added up to more than a quarter of million acres. As the Spanish spread across the lands, they planted more European grape vines, and by 1597 Casa Madero, the first winery in the Americas, was founded in the town Parras (vines) to which it gave a name, in the present day state of Cohuila.  The fact that it is still in operation today is amazing - a testament to the vitality of viticulture in the area - but belies the struggles, challenges and reversals of fortune that have plagued the Mexican wine industry in the intervening years. For, after this initial success, Charles II of Spain in 1669 banned all non-sacramental wine production in Mexico, as its popularity was hurting Spanish wine imports in the Americas - a prohibition that stayed in place until Mexican independence in 1821. After that Mexicans, retaining a healthy animosity towards their former colonial overlords, generally preferred to focus on indigenous tipples like tequila and mezcal, along with beer. Without a robust domestic market, wine production remained primarily in the hands of the clergy until the mid-19th century, and rose and fell through the political upheavals of the end of the Porfiriato and the Revolution. The 1930s and 40s saw an expansion of the industry, when a national market developed for the first time. The 1980s were another pivotal period, as an economic crisis and an increase in imports via the GATT trade agreement meant many wineries folded, while others downsized or refocused on quality.   The biggest growth has come in the past two decades however. In 2006, there were less than 25 wineries in Mexico; now there are 120 in Baja California, the largest region, by itself. These are mostly small, artisanal concerns, and primarily located in the Valle de Guadalupe area, sometimes called the Napa Valley of Mexico. Like Napa, it has a hot, dry Mediterranean climate, but it is closer (20 miles) to the ocean, possessing a stronger maritime influence. Soils are mostly sand, clay and granite, and elevations range from 300 to 2,600 feet. Two of our selections this quarter are grown here; the third is also from Baja, but located a little more inland in the Valle de Ojos Negros. All exude the sense of big sky possibility that defines Mexican wine right now: the lack of official appellations or geographical rules encourages experimentation and creative thinking, technological advances enable greater precision in farming, production and analysis, while the vines themselves age into complex maturity.  Esperamos que disfrutes! Dominio de las Abejas Nebbiolo 2023 Region / Country of Origin: Valle de Ojos Negros, Baja California, Mexico About the winery: Dominio de las Abejas Estate was founded in 2015 by Mauricio Ruiz and family. Las Abejas is a concept winery that was started based on choosing the best possible piece of land for growing grapes in anticipation of climate change. Their search alighted on a piece of land in the high elevation Valle de Ojos Negros in Baja California, located just south and slightly inland from Valle de Guadalupe. About the Vineyards: Estate vineyards planted in 2015 at an elevation of 2,200 ft in a unique section of the valley that was once a marsh. Vineyards are certified organic by the CCOF. Winemaking: The wines of las Abejas are made naturally. Ambient yeast fermentation, no corrections or additions, no filtration or fining and only a 30 ppm sulfite addition at bottling. All grapes were picked on the same day and fermented on native yeast after a light first press “bleed off” to concentrate the color. Fermentation took place over a period of 14 days at the lowest temperature possible in search of a wine with low extraction and maximum purity and delicacy. Like all the rest of the wines from Las Abejas, this was bottled without filtration or fining. Tasting Notes: All of the wines in the lineup from Dominio de Las Abejas are best summed up by a single word “delicious” as their balance of fruit, tannin, texture, and persistence all seems to perfectly tweak the pleasure dial to 11. This 100% Nebbiolo is one of the few representations of this grape variety you’ll find in Mexico that presents with the same light color and structural rigidity of wines made of this grape from Italy’s Barolo and Barbaresco regions. The true mystery of this grape is how it can be so light and beautiful in color and texture and yet deliver such intensity of flavor and structure. Here that dual nature of the grape is on full display with a color and body that are similar to a rosé but with the intensity and structure of a serious red. Winemaker: Mauricio Ruiz Price per bottle / Price per case: $32.99/btl -case by request Suggested Food Pairing: Carne asada,  Game birds,  truffle pasta Santos Brujos 2021 Tempranillo Region / Country of Origin:  Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico About the winery: Santos Brujos is one of the few wineries in the region that has taken the steps to become certified organic and biodynamic. Certified by the CCOF, USDA and Demeter, they are more dedicated to this approach than anyone else we have seen thus far. Even the name "Santos Brujos", which translates to "Saintly Witches" makes reference to the practice prescribed by Rudolf Steiner, (the founder of Biodynamic farming) by which the amendments to the soil and plants are prepared and stirred at length by hand.  About the vineyards: Estate vineyards, located in the center of the valley approximately 8 miles from the Pacific at an elevation of 900 ft. Soils are a sandy clay marl.  About the Winemaking: Wine is fermented on native yeasts in French oak barrels, racked and aged in new French oak for 12 months. Bottled unfiltered with a sulphur level of 13 ppm.  Tasting Notes: The wine offers inviting aromas of ripe red fruits such as cherry and plum, with subtle hints of vanilla, tobacco, and earthy undertones. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, with flavors of dark berries, spice, and a touch of oak. The tannins are smooth and well-integrated, providing a balanced structure. It has a long and satisfying finish, with lingering notes of fruit and spice. Winemaker: Luis Pecina Garcia  Price per bottle / Price per case:  $42.99/ case upon request Suggested Food Pairing: The Santos Brujos Tempranillo pairs well with a variety of dishes, including grilled meats, roasted vegetables, and traditional Spanish cuisine such as tapas or paella. Its balanced acidity and tannins make it versatile for pairing with both hearty and lighter fare. La Lomita Tinto de la Hacienda 2021  Region / Country of Origin: Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico About the winery: La Lomita was founded by Fernando Pérez Castro and is located mid-valley on a northwestern facing slope in the ejido of Francisco Zarco. While the winery wasn't formally established until 2009, La Lomita's land holdings include vineyard sites with some of the Valle de Guadalupe's oldest vines. The winery is one of the few to be certified organic in México, and Winemaker Gustavo González made the illustrious Masetto from 2000 through 2003.  About the Winemaking: Grapes are sourced from their estate vineyards as well as vineyards in Valle de Ojos Negros and Uruapan, all of which are farmed organically. They are harvested by hand and hand selected before being fermented with skins and seeds in open top stainless steel tanks for 3 weeks and then racked to 2nd and 3rd use French oak barrels where the wine ages for 12 months. 75% Tempranillo, 25% Merlot Tasting Notes: Bold in structure, there is a background of acidity to provide a notably large wine with the lift needed to allow it to float effortlessly across the palate despite the full body. No doubt the Merlot assists in this regard as well. This one is ready to go right out of the gate. Built with everything it needs to age gracefully for a decade or more, good luck managing to save it that long! Winemaker: Gustavo A. Gonzalez Price per bottle / Price per case:  $37.99/ case available upon request Suggested Food Pairing:  Lamb chops, chorizo,  beef ribs  

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September 30, 2024

Q3 2024 Red Rogues Club

SOUTH AFRICA The history of South African wine traces back to 1659 when Jan van Riebeeck, the founder and governor, produced the very first bottle in Cape Town. The 18th century marked a significant expansion for their wine industry, particularly with a focus on sweet and fortified wines. Brandy production thrived, driving the need for white grape cultivation and boosting exports. However, the British invasion in 1795 reshaped South Africa's history and its wine landscape, leading to rapid vineyard growth and a flourishing export market, especially to Britain. Yet, as British trade interests shifted toward France, South African wine exports began to decline. The situation worsened with the phylloxera epidemic, which devastated vineyards, and the onset of the Anglo-Boer War, further straining the industry. By the early 20th century, these challenges had left the wine sector struggling, marking a pivotal moment in its development. Apartheid in the country led to international sanctions in the 1960s, further hampering the growth of the wine industry. But it was during this time that some independent producers began improvements in viticulture and winemaking. And when apartheid ended in 1994, the momentum toward quality over quantity was building. The ability to access global markets spurred fresh investments in the country's wine industry. The Wine of Origin (WO) system, established in 1973, comprises approximately 60 appellations that categorize designated production areas into regions, districts, and wards. Wines labeled under WO are required to include grapes solely from their specific region of origin. Furthermore, "Single Vineyard" wines must originate from a defined plot of land no larger than 6 hectares. An "Estate Wine" can be produced from nearby farms if they are cultivated together and the wine is made on-site. A ward is characterized by unique soil types or climatic conditions, paralleling a European appellation in its designation. Wine production is primarily centered in and around Cape Town, largely confined to the Western Cape province, with significant vineyards and production hubs located in Constantia, Paarl, Stellenbosch, and Worcester. The Cape winelands span from the rugged mountains and varied slopes of the coastal region to the open and wild plains of the Klein Karoo, where viticulture primarily takes place in the riverine valleys. Each region has its own unique characteristics and microclimates, allowing winemakers to craft an array of styles, from elegant and cool-climate whites to bold and robust reds.  In the Western Cape, which is near the coast, the icy Atlantic Ocean helps moderate temperatures. On the coastal side, where fynbos and renosterveld (‘rhinoceros field’, derived from the historical presence of rhinoceros in these grassy plains) thrive, the annual rainfall measures up to 39 inches. As one travels over the mountains into the wilderness, the rainfall dramatically decreases, and the vegetation is dominated by hardy succulents, cycads, and aloes. South African wine makes up less than half a percent of imported wine in the United States, which is significantly less than other major non-European wine-producing countries, so we thought we’d introduce you to some of the best South Africa has to offer. We have also hyperlinked several South African recipes to try with these delicious wines. Cheers, Carrie Upson- General Manager/Wine Buyer De Toren Z Red Blend 2016 Region / Country of Origin: Stellenbosch, South Africa About the vineyards: The vineyards are situated approximately six miles from False Bay, at altitudes of 655 feet above sea level. The “Z” block, set on a south-facing slope, is exposed to cooling ocean breezes. There are 10 different soil types found on the estate, but the Merlot based Z hails mainly from clay-rich soils of Sterkspruit, Estcourt and Vilafonte. De Toren is Dutch for “the tower.” The name refers to the winery structure which allows for gravity flow winemaking. Winemaking Notes: The grapes were handpicked in the cool, early morning hours and transported in small baskets to the winery, where they were hand sorted and de-stemmed. They were gently crushed and gravity fed into open-top fermentation tanks where regular manual punch downs were performed during fermentation. The wine was basket pressed and gravity fed into 225 liter oak barrels (25% new, 25% second fill, 25% third fill and 25% fourth fill), where it was aged for 12 months in a climatized barrel room (61°F at 80% humidity). Each varietal component was vinified and aged separately in French oak with the exception of Malbec, which was aged in American oak. 54% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 12% Malbec, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot Tasting Notes: You’ll find it tantalizingly soft on the tongue, with a hint of aniseed, liquorice, raspberry and cranberries lending a fresh acidity to its polished finish. This follows through perfectly on the palate, revealing pure juicy red fruit, berries and plum. Complex and vibrant, this expressive red showcases velvety, finely knit tannins…just as one would expect from a Merlot-led blend! Winemaker: Martin Fourie Cellar Master: Charles Williams Price per bottle / Price per case: $52.99 btl/ $572.29 Suggested Food Pairing: Duck pate or pork terrines, Beef carpaccio,  Peri Peri Duck, Crispy New Potatoes & Kale, Beef Wellington Maanschijn Herbarium Cape Red 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Walker Bay, South Africa About the winery: Derived from the Dutch term for moonlight, Maanschijn is now an artisanal wine production situated inside a heritage building and below a tall mountain peak. A collaboration between two winemakers, Douglas Mylrea and Paul Hoogwerf, who attended both high school and university together. After studying winemaking in Stellenbosch, they went on their separate journeys, gaining experience in cellars and vineyards around the world. Many vintages passed before a series of fortunate events led their paths to cross, once again. It was at this meeting where they discovered, in each other, a shared passion and philosophy towards their craft, and together, co-founded their young wine company. About the winemaking: The Herbarium Cape Red is primarily Pinotage, with Syrah and Mourvèdre making up the rest. Pinotage is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault and was created in the early 20th century in South Africa. For Herbarium Cape Red, each varietal was fermented with native yeast, and partially in whole bunches before being pressed to neutral French oak. After nine months of aging, the wine was blended and bottled without fining. 42% Pinotage, 38% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre. Minimal Intervention. Tasting Notes: Each varietal shines so well in this wine. The Pinotage yields black cherry and rose petal notes; the Syrah gives a seductive inky purple color, along with violet and peppery tones; and then loads of dried herbs shine from the Mourvèdre. The calling card of Walker Bay shines too, as a beautiful stony and saline minerality comes through in the finish.  Winemakers: Douglas Mylrea and Paul Hoogwerf   Price per bottle / Price per case:  $30.99 btl/ $334.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Heavy stews or red meat dishes, Smoked meats,  Potjiekos,  Peppercorn rubbed steak with sauteed mushrooms. Scions of Sinai Swanesang Syrah 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Stellenbosch, South Africa About the Winemaker: Bernhard Bredell, a seventh-generation vineyard farmer, is deeply rooted in South Africa’s winemaking heritage. Raised among Sinai Hill’s ancient vines, he carries the legacy of his ancestors who planted the first vines 160 years ago. Bernhard’s commitment to regenerative and dry farming methods, combined with his passion for nurturing the land, reflects in his exceptional wines. His efforts to preserve historic bush vines have earned him a vital role in the South African wine scene, offering a unique taste of Helderberg’s exceptional terroir. His dedication and the allure of this pristine land are truly captivating. About the Winemaking: As with all Scions of Sinai wines, the grapes are hand harvested and immediately brought into the tanks early in the morning. Swanesang undergoes a long natural fermentation in open-top fermenters where 90% of the grapes are left whole-cluster. Fermentation is approached as more of an infusion process than that of extracting, so occasional pump-overs and partial post-fermentation-maceration is carried out before pressing. It is then transferred to large format concrete and older 400L French oak barrels and aged on its fine lees for 11 months. Tasting Notes:  Dark as night, explosively aromatic, full-bodied, and with perfectly integrated tannins. Notes of violets, cloves, and cracked peppercorns shine first; then emerges cassis, blueberries, black olives, licorice, and dried fynbos brush. Swanesang is full-bodied, concentrated, rich and velvety. It’s seamless and long—just the complete package in a wine that’s perfectly approachable yet capable of aging effortlessly for two decades or more. Winemaker: Bernhard Bredell Price per bottle / Price per case:   $40.99/btl/$442.70 Suggested Food Pairing:  Bobotie, Boerewors,  Game meats like venison, ostrich, duck, & rabbit, Dark chocolate

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June 29, 2024

Q2 2024 Red Rogues Club- Pinot Noir from the Southern Hemisphere

Pinot Noir from the Southern Hemisphere “Pinot Noir” derives from the French words “pine” and “black,” describing the grape’s tight, pine cone-like clusters and dark color. Studies show that Pinot Noir is a very old variety, with origins dating back to the first century AD. It’s believed that the Romans brought the grape with them as they expanded their empire. Pinot Noir is most famously tied to Burgundy, France, where for the better part of a millennium, it has been the source of some of the region's top wines. Even today, the iconic Grand Cru vineyards of the Côte d'Or are synonymous with greatness. The top three highest producing Pinot Noir countries are France, United States and Germany. However, you can find Pinot Noir planted in over 25 different countries, making Pinot Noir a truly internationally acclaimed grape variety.  Pinot Noir is known for its delicate flavors and aromas, which can include notes of red fruit, cherries, and earthy spices. Its flavor and character can be heavily influenced by the terroir in which it is grown, resulting in a wide range of wine styles. This quarter, we decided to feature three Pinot Noirs from the Southern Hemisphere, in the hope of introducing you to a full range of Pinot Noir profiles. The Pinot Noir grape variety has been in Australia since the early 1800s, when it was brought in by John McArthur in 1817 and James Busby in the 1830s. However, it took time for the grape to find success, and it wasn't until the 1920s that Australian winemaker Maurice O'Shea planted Pinot Noir vines in the Hunter Valley. Today, Pinot Noir is thriving in Australia's cooler regions, such as Tasmania, Yarra Valley, and the Adelaide Hills, as well as in warmer inland regions. Australian Pinot Noir is described as delicate and food-friendly, with flavors of cherries and red berries. It's often used in sparkling wines, but can also be used to make red table wines. Pinot Noir grapes were first planted in New Zealand in 1819 in the far north of the North Island, but there's no written evidence of this until 1855. Some of the original vines may have come from cuttings from Port Jackson, Australia. In 1889, Mission Vineyards planted Pinot Noir grapes in Hawkes Bay, and William Beetham planted them in Wairarapa.  Interest in Pinot Noir increased again in the 1970s, when Nick Nobilo of Nobilo Wines produced New Zealand's first commercial Pinot Noir since the 1800s in 1973. Other regions also began experimenting with Pinot Noir, including Martinborough in 1979 and Central Otago in 1987. Today, Pinot Noir is New Zealand's second most planted grape variety, after Sauvignon Blanc, and is often associated with the country's finest wines.  One of the reasons New Zealand Pinot Noir is considered premium quality is the "Abel" clone, which is said to have originated from a cutting taken from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti vineyards in Burgundy. A tourist allegedly smuggled the cutting into New Zealand in a gumboot and it was intercepted by Malcolm Abel, a local winemaker and customs officer, at Auckland airport. Abel sent the vine to the government's viticultural research center for processing and then planted the first cuttings. The Abel clone is the foundation for many of New Zealand's most sought-after Pinot Noirs. Pinot Noir's history in Argentina is relatively short, with the first plantings taking place in the 1960s. The grapes were primarily used to make sparkling wines, and by the 1950s, more than 4,000 acres in Patagonia were planted with Pinot Noir. However, by 2000, that number had dropped to less than 500 acres. Piero Incisa della Rocchetta of Bodega Chacra helped put Argentina on the map for Pinot Noir in the early 2000s by using grapes from an old vineyard in Patagonia. This inspired other producers to look for old vineyards or clones that would work better in Argentina's terroirs, and to identify regions where Pinot Noir would thrive. Today, Pinot Noir is grown in more regions of Argentina than Malbec, and the country's surface area under vine with Pinot Noir has almost doubled in the last two decades. Cheers! Carrie Upson-General Manager and Wine Buyer Burn Cottage “Moonlight Race” Pinot Noir Region / Country of Origin: Central Otago, New Zealand  About the winery: Burn Cottage is a 28-hectare vineyard, farm, and estate in the foothills of the Pisa range in Central Otago, New Zealand. The vineyard is owned by husband and wife Marquis & Dianne Sauvage, who purchased the unplanted property in 2002. It had been grazed by sheep for as long as can currently be remembered. There were, and are, no immediate vineyard neighbors. The site is quite coveted in the region, for it is sheltered from both northerly and southerly winds by large hills and forms a beautiful, protected bowl much like a modern amphitheater. It is a phenomenal site for Pinot Noir; with warm summers and cold winters, there is plenty of sunshine with particularly long warm days through the growing season and cool nights that help achieve ripeness while retaining good acidity.  About the Vineyards: Like Ted’s property at Littorai, Burn Cottage is a fully functional farm, with 10 hectares under vine and the rest of the land devoted to cattle, chickens, beehives, olive groves, and other native species of New Zealand plants, bushes, and trees. They also produce their own compost and grow many of the preparations needed for biodynamic farming. At Burn Cottage, they believe that biodiversity is the cornerstone of healthy farming – and that great wines are not made from fruit but are born of the soils which nurture the vines and then made with minimal intervention. Tasting Notes: “The 2022 Moonlight Race Pinot Noir is supple and spicy, with pink peppercorn, cherry blossom, red apple skins, a hint of blond tobacco and white pepper. The wine is light in the glass (but vibrant) and the tannins suit it—they are totally fresh and fine—finely milled and like poudre. Superb, silky, totally satisfying and enlivening.” 94 Points WA Winemaker: Claire Mulholland Price per bottle / Price per case: $46.99 btl/ $507.49 case Suggested Food Pairing: Game birds such as quail, turkey and duck,  Filet of New Zealand salmon,  Mushroom risotto, Roast pork with cherry gastrique Moorooduc Estate Pinot Noir 2018 Region / Country of Origin:  Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia About the winery: Established in 1982 by Richard and Jill McIntyre, Moorooduc Estate is a small, family run wine business that has developed an enviable reputation for complex and food friendly wines. Moorooduc Estate's philosophy in everything they do is to make the most of top quality ingredients. Intensive, hands-on care in the vineyard, with minimal use of chemicals, produces the best possible fruit for their wines. Wild yeast ferments and minimal intervention winemaking, with a nod to traditional Burgundian techniques, allow the wines to express their site specificity, or terroir. Similarly, they aim to source ingredients for the food they serve that are seasonal, local and organic. About the winemaking:  All the wines are made on-site in the Rammed Earth Winery. From a very modest 20 tonne winery set up in 1987, they now have a more sophisticated facility with a small but high-quality Bucher press and an excellent Vaslin – Bucher destemmer. Since 2006 they have had the facility to chill fruit in a refrigerated shipping container which has been particularly beneficial with the warmer climate and earlier vintages we have been experiencing over recent years. In the winery, the emphasis is on gentle winemaking methods with some quality control where they believe this is important. Tasting Notes:  “Mornington Peninsula is synonymous with Pinot and Moorooduc is one of the region’s top producers. The color of rose petals and bricks, the ’18 vintage is in a lovely place. It’s aromatic and expressive, with potpourri-like aromas of dried red berries, crushed flower petals and spice that knit seamlessly together. They’re underpinned by earthy, autumnal nuances. The ethereal palate comes with a beautiful tang of acidity. It’s framed by ultra-fine, chiseled tannins, which leave room for the delicate red fruit, floral and spice flavors that linger on the lengthy finish.” 94 Points WE Winemaker: Dr. Richard McIntyre  Price per bottle / Price per case:  $39.99 btl/ $431.89 case Suggested Food Pairing: Slow cooked duck marylands with beetroot and potato mash, Eggplant parmesan, Baked brie with rosemary, Roast lamb Chacra “Barda” Pinot Noir  Region / Country of Origin: Patagonia, Argentina About the winery: Bodega Chacra is located in the Rio Negro Valley of northern Patagonia, 620 miles south of Buenos Aires, 1,240 miles north of Tierra del Fuego, and roughly equidistant west to east from the Andes Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. The property's situation in the arid central Argentine desert is tempered by the confluence of the Neuquen and Limay Rivers, both of which flow from the Andes and converge in the Rio Negro, which in turn flows into the Atlantic. The Rio Negro Valley itself is a glacial bed 15.5 miles wide, stretching 310 miles along the river's banks at an elevation of 750 feet above sea level. The valley is irrigated by a network of channels excavated in the late 1820s by British colonists who observed the abundant snow melt flowing from the Andes and created an oasis in the middle of the desert. About the Winemaking: 24% in french oak barrels, (5% new), 41% in concrete tanks and 35% in stainless steel tanks for 8 months.  Tasting Notes: Pure, minerally and powerful, with concentrated flavors of red plum and dried raspberry, loaded with powerful meaty notes. Sandalwood accents linger on the finish, showing caressing tannins. “Acidic red berries, fresh raspberries, chalk and a hint of herbal freshness. Crunchy and fresh, full of verve. Transparent and nimble with soft, round tannins and a bright, linear finish.” 93 JS Winemaker: Piero Incisa della Rocchetta Price per bottle / Price per case:  $37.99 btl/$410.29 case Suggested Food Pairing: A perfect pairing for fish, salads and omelets

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