April 6, 2026

Italian Wine Club March 2026

As the least heralded region in a North Central Italian triumvirate that includes Tuscany and Umbria, Le Marche sometimes gets lost in the stampede of visitors thronging its famous neighbors. It’s also easy enough to mistake for Abruzzo, which it borders to the north; both are sandwiched between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea, with long coastlines, lots of rustic greenery and no large, iconic cities (the biggest town, and the regional capital, is Ancona, pop. 100,000-ish.) But from the definite article on down, Le Marche is a place with specificity to spare.  Let’s start with the name: Le Marche (pronounced “leh-markeh”) is the only Italian region with a title in the plural form. The moniker dates back to 800 CE, when Holy Roman Emperor Charlemagne assumed the throne and divided his possessions into fiefdoms, each one of them entrusted to a noble Marquis. The term “marche” derives from the German word “mark”, which means “border”; hence, Le Marche started as a group of possessions delimited by a “mark.” The literal English translation would be “The Marches” - and so my intention was to feature it in the month of March. Which almost happened. But here we are in the first week of April instead (look out for the actual April selections the week of the 21st.) Which is probably for the best, syncopation being > symmetry in music, wine and life more generally.  Anyway, Le Marche is also a great historical source of art and culture, the birthplace of the composer Gioacchino Rossini, the poet Gacomo Leopardi and most famously, the late Renaissance painter and architect Raffaello Sanzio, better known as Raphael. In fact, the story of just how Rapheal came to grow up in the region is an excellent synecdoche for its layered treasures so, if you’ll indulge a[nother] digression, let’s take a day trip to Urbino, the town where the painter was born. Today it is the hilltop home of some 24,000 inhabitants, most of whom are students at the local university; when Rapheal was born it was an unlikely Renaissance center due to the efforts of Federico the Duke of Monteferalto, who had hired the painter’s father Giovanni Santil, as his court artist. The out-of-wedlock son of a small-town noble, Frederico became a duke by killing the apparent heir, his half-brother and went on to get rich as a soldier-for-hire with his own private army, fighting for Florence against the pope, then for the pope against Florence. In the process, he lost an eye and a hunk of his nose, and consequently is portrayed only in profile — with his (relatively) good side showing. He also expanded his duchy into an Italian power, before settling down to life as a scholar and gentleman, studying Latin, collecting manuscripts, and renovating the local Ducal Palace, aiming to make it the "dwelling place of the Muses," and bringing the Renaissance to this relatively remote destination 50 years after it flourished in Florence.  Turn over another stone in Le Marche and who knows what you’ll find. Get thirsty and there’s a number of variegated terroirs extremely well-suited to the cultivation of vines. Due to the influences of the Apennines, the Adriatic, and the region’s rivers, there are various microclimates, giving wine producers both warm and cool viticultural zones to work with. Currently there are 15 DOC and DOCG classified wines, the best known of which is the white wine Verdicchio, It is grown in two appellations in the Marche region, Castelli di Jesi and Matelica, and is also genetically identical to a constituent grape of Soave called Trebbiano di Soave. Wines made from it show a range of zesty aromas and flavors, including green apple, flower, citrus peel, and almond, depending on where it is grown; the best examples can age very well in the bottle, but when they are as good as this month’s example, it’s hard to keep them around that long.  The red is a little more unusual. Red wines from Le Marche are chiefly based on Sangiovese or Montepulciano, but this month we instead have the rare Lacrima varietal, which means “tear” in Italian, and is so named for either its tear-like shape, or its thin skin that allows tear-like drops of juice to drip from the grape. It is found almost exclusively in the Lacrima Morro D’Alba DOC in Le Marche and is ancient enough that its origins remain something of a mystery.  Salud, Alan Hicks Wine Buyer PlumpJack Wine & Spirits Noe Valley Tenuta Grimaldi Verdicchio di Matellica 2022 Region: Matelica, Marche, Italy About the Winery: The Matelica appellation is in the west of the Marche, in the foothills of the Apennines, not far from the border with Umbria. Grimaldi is just outside the little town of Matelica itself, at between 450 and 550 meters (1,500-1,800 feet) above sea level. The elevation of the vineyards is important to the character of these wines; higher elevation makes for a cooler climate, and better retention of acidity. The soils at Tenuta Grimaldi are rocy, and; the vineyards face east and north-east.  Tenuta Grimaldi produces only Verdicchio, from four different clones. They grow grapes organically, at relatively low yields; the fruit is picked by hand into small boxes; the whole bunches are pressed, and the juice is settled out and fermented in stainless steel tanks and large wooden barrels (Fermentation and aging in large barrels is quite different from the same process in barriques, the goal with larger barrels being to add complexity to the wine without adding oak flavors.) As of this writing, the winemaker Mirko Mattana is experimenting with both indigenous and selected yeasts, to see which he prefers. After the alcoholic fermentation, the wine is then aged in the same vessels on the fine lees until bottling, which takes place in June. About the Winemaking: From vines planted in 2016 and 2017 Altitude 450 - 550 M, E-NE, clay/ marl and limestone/ marl with a topsoil of light sand. Grapes harvested in September Fermentation mostly in stainless steel (~80%) and the rest in large Austrian and French barrels. Aged for 8-10 months on fine lees. Gentle filtration. Tasting Notes: Bright pale yellow with greenish reflections; aroma and flavor of Granny Smith apple, orange peel, cut grass and almonds; mouthwatering acidity, very long finish. Winemaker: Mirko Mattana Price per bottle / per case $30.99/$334.70 Suggested Food Pairing: works as an aperitif, but also with roast chicken, fish tacos, Vietnamese spring rolls, grilled salmon, pasta with shrimp.  Luigi Giusti Lacrima di Morro D’Alba ‘Rubbjano’ 2018  Region: Lacrima Di Morro D’Alba DOC, Le Marche, Italy About the Winery: Cantina Luigi Giusti has roots that go back to 1903, when Filippo Giusti returned to Italy from the United States and bought a piece of property near his hometown. His family grew along with a passion for the land and, since the 1930s, for the cultivation of the vine. In the 1950s, Filippo’s son Luigi and daughter-in-law Maria, acquired the historic cellar of the Cantina Castelferretti. The winery began a long agricultural project focusing on the cultivation of the Lacrima varietal. While the Castelferretti cellar is still used for the sale and aging of bottled wines, in 1997 Luigi ’s son Piergiovanni Giusti, with the help of his wife Elena, bought a new cellar in Montignano, within the Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC boundaries. In 2000 they enlisted the assistance of enologist Giancarlo Soverchia, a specialist in the traditional grapes of the Marche. Today Piergiovanni continues his parent’s vision – to produce quality wines from the native grape of the Marche which are a distinct expression of the land and the indigenous Lacrima di Morro d’Alba. About the Winemaking: Rubbjano comes from the winery’s oldest Lacrima vineyard. Soil is Clay-based, with medium density .Elevation is160 meters (520 feet) above sea level. The vines were planted in 1994. Grapes are harvested in early October, after which they are gently pressed and undergo a slow maceration. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature with pre-fermentative and post-fermentative stages of 20-22 days. The wine is aged for 10 months in small French oak barrels, six-months in bottle before release. Production: 3,400 bottles. Tasting Notes: On the nose it has an ample and persistent bouquet, with notes of withered roses, violets and nuances of vanilla. Notes of black cherries and tobacco with very gentle tannins on the palate. The mouthfeel is soft, velvety and well structured. Winemaker: Giancarlo Soverchia Price per bottle / per case:  $34.99/$377.90 Suggested Food Pairing:  Cold cuts, Ciauscolo (a spreadable salami from the region), medium-aged cheeses, truffle risotto, pasta dishes with red sauces, pasta with meat sauce, Vincisgrassi (see recipe), gnocchi with Bolognese, pasta Amatriciana, pulled pork, Argentine meat empanadas, burritos, polenta with meat sauce, grilled meat; beef fillet with porcini mushrooms, lamb kebabs and roasted rabbit. Vincisgrassi (Wild mushroom & prosciutto lasagne) Ingredients: 500g chicken stock 30g pack dried porcinimushrooms 2 tbsp olive oil 100g butter 1 bay leaf 300g Portobello mushrooms or chestnut mushrooms, halved and sliced 1 garlic clovecrushed 75g plain flour 500ml hot full fat milk 100g double cream 140g prosciuttoroughly shredded Handful flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped 12 sheets fresh lasagne 140g parmesanabout two-thirds finely grated, the rest shaved Truffle oil (optional)Instructions:1. Pour the stock into a saucepan, bring to the boil and tip the dried mushrooms into a heatproof bowl or jug. Pour over the hot stock and leave to soak until it has been absorbed and the mushrooms have cooled. Drain the mushrooms over a bowl, pressing down on them to release all the stock. Reserve the stock, roughly chop the mushrooms and set aside.2. Heat the olive oil and two-thirds of the butter in a large, shallow saucepan. Add the soaked mushrooms and bay leaf, and sizzle for a few mins. Turn up the heat, add the fresh mushrooms and garlic, and fry until soft. Season, scatter the flour over the mushrooms and cook until you have a thick, sticky paste. Pour in the mushroom stock and boil until everything is gloopy. Gradually add the hot milk, stirring between each addition, until you have a thick mushroom sauce, then simmer for 10 mins, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, fish out the bay leaf, then stir in the cream, prosciutto and parsley, and leave to cool slightly.3. If cooking straight away, heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Grease a rectangular casserole dish (about 22 x 30cm) with the remaining butter and cover the bottom with a layer of lasagne sheets. Using a slotted spoon, layer about a third of the mushroom mixture and some of the sauce over the lasagne sheets, then scatter over a little grated Parmesan and drizzle with a few drops of truffle oil, if using. Repeat until you have three layers of mushrooms (save some sauce in the pan), then top with a final layer of pasta. Now spread over the remaining sauce – it should be reasonably mushroom free. Scatter over the remaining grated Parmesan and drizzle with more truffle oil, if using. Can be made a day ahead, covered and chilled.4. Bake the lasagne for 20-25 mins until golden and bubbling. Turn the oven up at the end of cooking if it’s not brown enough. Remove from the oven and leave for a few mins to stand. Cut into squares, scatter over the Parmesan shavings and drizzle over some more truffle oil just before serving, if you like.

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February 8, 2026

Italian Wine Club February 2026: Piemonte

French historian Jules Michelet used to begin his lectures on British history, with the seemingly unnecessary proclamation, “Messieurs, l’Angleterre est une ile.” “You guys, England is an island.” Obvious certainly, but it sure clarifies all that is to follow. There is, after all, an important difference between “simply knowing that Britain is an island” and “whether we interpret its history in the light of that fact, which thus takes on a significance of its own.”*  Take this tack with Italy/Italian wine, and we might lead with: Italy is mostly uphill. The fact that it occupies a peninsula (Appenine) named for the mountain range that traverses it, is probably the biggest clue, but if (like me) you haven’t spent much time there you might be surprised to learn that fully 75% of Italy is hills and mountains. It is a geographical characteristic that has had a dramatic effect on pretty much every aspect of its development, cuisine and wine included. For centuries, getting from one town to another was a huge hassle, and as a result, products grown successfully in one valley might never make it to the valley next door. So even though both wines we are featuring this month technically come from Piedmont, the northeastern region famed for its Barbaresco and Barolo, they each very much occupy their own altitude, offering singular vistas that warrant a separate summit. To the funicular! Indeed, Piedmont actually means “at the foot of the mountain” in Italian. It’s surrounded on three sides by the Alps, including the Monte Rosa, and the Monviso, where the Po River rises. The region borders France, Switzerland, and the Italian regions of Lombardy, Liguria, Emilia-Romagna and Val d’Aosta, and encompasses 8 provinces: Turin, Alessandria, Asti, Biella, Cuneo, Novara, Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, and Vercelli. Located in the southeastern part of Piedmont, in the Alessandria province bordering Lombardy, Colli Tortenesi is mostly hills and valleys as it rises from the Po River plains to heights of 1,700 meters in the Apennines. The climate is humid, influenced positively by the Ligurian sea and receives the lowest rainfall in the region, with a considerable temperature range throughout the day, which contributes to the intense aromatics of the wine. Located in the southeastern part Piedmont, adjacent to Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy, Colli Tortenesi was founded by the Ligurians, before becoming a Roman colony called Derthona in 148 BCE, the first such outpost under imperial rule west of the Po River Valley. The area has a transitional topography of hills and valleys as it rises from the plains of the Po River to heights of 1,700 meters in the Apennines, all of which contribute to the diversity of soil and climate. Much of the soil, formed during the Tortonian age, between 5 and 15 million years ago, is a mix of calcareous clay, with ancient marine deposits, limestone and a surface layer of sand. The climate is humid, influenced positively by the Ligurian sea and receives the lowest rainfall in the region, with a considerable temperature range throughout the day, which contributes to the intense aromatics of the wine. It has historically been known for the red grape Barbera, which is grown in many other places in Northern Italy (see below), but today its calling card is arguably Timorasso, a highly distinctive white grape and Colli Tortenesi’s only autochthonous varietal. On the verge of extinction as recently as 1987, a local winemaker Walter Massa began acting on his hunch that some of the family vineyards were better suited to growing white grapes. The (eventual) result has been a Timorasso renaissance as others have discovered that this thick and waxy skinned varietal produces age-worthy and distinguished white wine, boasting floral notes, bright acidity and orchard fruit flavors in its youth, and capable of developing petrol, almond and honeyed characteristics as it matures. Timorasso has been alternately likened to Chablis, Riesling and Chenin Blanc which is proof enough of its uniqueness. La Colombera’s version, which we are featuring this month, is excellent.  The red hails from Alba, in the Cuneo province, in the South west corner of Piedmont. It is made from the aforementioned Barbera grape, which is believed to be native to Italy, though its origins are obscure enough that it is difficult to be certain. In any event, Barbera is today one of Italy’s most widely planted red varietals, prized for its ability to shine in all kinds of contexts, from a reliable single varietal table red (it is known as the “people’s wine” in Piedmont) to a sympathetic blending partner to a sparkling version known as Verbesco.  This ubiquity is probably why we’ve never featured a single varietal Barbera in IWC before; it's an easy grape to take for granted. But having sampled the new vintage from Oddero, one of my favorite Piemont producers, recently, I was struck anew with all the qualities that make Barbera such a popular dinner guest. At its best, which this bottling is, Barbera is conversant with most social and/or culinary lingua franca - and comfortable enough in its own skin not to try too hard to prove it. You rarely encounter a less needy wine, in other words - and sometimes that demands recognition. Salud, Alan Hicks- Wine Buyer PlumpJack Wine & Spirits Noe Valley *(Appropriating this story from Leszek Kolakowski’s Main Currents of Marxism where he uses it to explain starting his tome with the similarly dome-cracking: “Karl Marx was a German philosopher.”)  Le Colombera Timorasso 2024 Region: Collo Tortonesi, Piedmont Italy  About the Winery: Based in the village of Vho on the outskirts of Tortona, or Derthona as the Romans called it, La Colombera is a third generation, 22 ha property planted most notably with the indigenous white wine grape Timorasso; all within a mile of the winery. In 1961 Renato Semino planted the first of La Colombera’s vineyards: Vigna Brusa. During the 1970s, Renato’s son, Piercarlo began working the vineyards and decided in the 1980s to begin making wine himself, rather than sell off the fruit, building a small winery in 1996. Then, in 1997, with the outbreak of flavescenza dorata that decimated their largely rented vineyards, they were encouraged to plant the varietal that would become their passion, Timorasso, for the first time. Over the next two years, the Semino family took a leap of faith, purchasing their vineyards and building a new commercial winery. In 2000, Piercarlo’s daughter Elisa returned from her viticultural studies in Milan to join the family business & to focus the family’s energy on the production of Timorasso. In 2013, Elisa’s brother Lorenzo joined the family business, and in 2014 they fermented the Timorasso wine, ‘Derthona,’ for the first time, using wild yeasts. Today, the Semino family continues to expand their viticulture, adding three new hectares to their holdings in 2017.  About the Winemaking: '100% Timorasso, from several vineyards on our property, planted between 1997 and 2000. The vines are located between 270 and 300 meters (900 to 1,000 feet) above sea level. The soils include both light and dark limestone-rich clay. Harvest takes place typically in the middle of September. The grapes are macerated in the press for three hours before pressing; the wine is then fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks, and aged on the fine lees for at least 10 months before bottling. The wine is cold-stabilized and filtered. Residual sweetness is 1.2 g/L (dry), and the SO2 is 70 ppm at bottling. Sixteen thousand bottles are produced each year. Tasting Notes: On the nose the young wine shows notes of white peach, honey, acacia, hawthorn blossom, and chamomile, developing smoky and mineral notes with age. On the palate, there are savory notes that remind one of our clay soils. The fresh acidity of the wine allows it to improve in the bottle for many years.' Winemaker: Eliza & Lorenzo Semina  Price per bottle / Price per case $33.99/$367.10 Suggested Food Pairing:  Fonduta (Piedmontese cheese fondue)  Risotto w/ white truffle Raw vegetables with bagna cauda (the local dip made from hazelnut oil, anchovies, peppers, garlic and cream.)  aged cheeses like Montebore  Seafood,  Spicy foods Oddero Barbera D’Alba 2022 Region: Barbera D’Alba DOC, Piedmont. About the Winemaker: Oddero is one of the great, historic, traditional Barolo houses with a long history spanning over 200 years. There are mentions of the Oddero family in La Morra as far back as the 1700s, though the family was likely there even before that point. The winery was among the first producers to estate bottle their Barolo – in the late 1800s, a time when most wine was sold in bulk either by demijohn or barrel. There are even records of their wine being sold to the USA at that point as well. It was Giacomo Oddero (born 1926) and his brother Luigi (born 1928) who brought the winery into the modern era. They renovated their ancient farmhouse, elevated their wine quality, and extended their vineyard holdings. For years, the estate has quietly sold a good portion of its wines to a loyal clientele, much of it to restaurants in Italy. As such, they have remained somewhat under-the-radar amongst the tier of traditional Baroli. Giacomo’s daughter Mariacristina joined the winery in 1997 after studying Agronomic Science and Enology at the University of Torino. But after a few years, she and Luigi, both very strong-headed characters, had a challenging time working together and decided to separate. She kept the historic cellars in La Morra and much of the historic vineyards, and he formed his own winery in 2006, called Luigi Oddero e Figli. Today, Mariacristina’s son Pietro and niece Isabella are taking over and represent the seventh generation in the family to run the winery. They are both hugely committed to raising the reputation of the winery and have made significant investments in the vineyards and cellar to continue to help elevate the level of quality at this venerable estate. About the Winemaking: 100% Barbera. Certified organic. From vineyards planted between 2000 and 2005, on Tortonian soil (calcareous marl and sandstone.) Harvested in late September it goes through 10 days maceration and controlled low temperature fermentation in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts , followed by malolactic fermentation in November. 100% aged in 50-hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months. Blended in the spring, bottled in the summer. Tasting Notes: Intense ruby-red color with purple tinges, a bouquet of pure cherry, blackberry, black pepper and mineral flavors with an excellent dash of freshness. Elegant but intense, tannins are soft and fresh in the mouth, with a fine length. Winemaker: Pietro & Isabella Oddero  Price per bottle / Price per case $29.99/$323.90 Suggested Food Pairing:  Pretty much any tomato based dishes Pizza Grilled meats or vegetables Risotto Mildly spicy Asian dishes Panissa (Piedmontese Rice & Beans)  This rich, robust dish makes the most of Piedmont’s famous rice and wine, with plenty of salami and beans strewn throughout. Cooked like a risotto but with a firmer, thicker texture, it’s a beautiful dish, which deserves to be more well-known outside the region.  Ingredients: 1 tbsp olive oil  1 onion, finely chopped 200g salami, finely chopped or whizzed into a paste (see Know-how) 800ml vegetable stock 400g tin or jar borlotti beans, including their liquid 300g carnaroli risotto rice 2 tbsp tomato purée 300ml robust red wine, ideally barbera d’asti 100g parmesan, finely grated 20g salted butter Parsley to serve Bread to serve (optional) Instructions: Heat the oil in a large hobsafe casserole or pan over a medium heat. Stir in the onion and a pinch of salt, then cook for about 8 minutes until softened. Stir in the salami and cook for about 4 minutes until starting to brown. Meanwhile, heat the stock in another pan and add the beans, including their liquid. Keep warm over a low heat. Stir the rice into the onions and cook for a few minutes, stirring regularly, until starting to turn translucent. Add the tomato purée and cook for 1 minute Pour in the wine and simmer for a few minutes. Add a few ladlefuls of the stock mixture to the rice at a time, ensuring the rice is always covered with liquid, and allow to bubble gently for 20-25 minutes, stirring constantly and topping up as needed, until all the liquid and beans are added and the rice is tender. Remove from the heat, cover with a lid and leave to stand for 5 minutes. Stir in most of the parmesan and the butter. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper. Serve with the remaining parmesan and some parsley leaves scattered over.  

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November 23, 2025

November Italian Wine Club: Island Wines

When it comes to wine, Sicily is what the grownups might’ve called a ‘cheat code’, back when they were kids. The largest island in the Mediterranean is home to 135,000 hectares of vineyards – more than in all of Bordeaux -- a winemaking history some 2500 years old, and an alphabet (from Acitana to Zibibbo) of native varietals thriving in near ideal viticultural conditions. A classic Mediterranean climate of bright sunshine, and reliably moderate rainfall allows for an extended, three month harvest season, beginning in the August heat of Trapani on the west coast and ending on the slopes of Mt. Etna in mid-November. The generally arid conditions reduce the chances of rot and mildew, especially in coastal areas, which makes it easy to go green. (“It’s stupid not to farm organically in Sicily” renowned local enologa Arianna Occhipinti has said. “We have the perfect climate.”) While there are arguably more celebrated (and certainly more expensive) wine regions in Italy, none can match Sicily’s particular alchemy of terroirs, grapes, and intrepid vignerons steeped in local tradition and relatively unencumbered by the fine print of Italy’s wine classification system. So it can feel like we’re here all the time in IWC - though after actually checking I was surprised to find no visits at all in 2024 and none in 2025 save March. In any event, we’re back this month on account of all of the above. But I am also cheating a little bit because the white selection is actually from one of the Aelion Islands (also sometimes called the Lipari chain), which consists of seven(ish) tiny freckles stippling the Tyrrhenian sea off of Sicily’s northeastern coast. Those islands large enough to have names include: Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi and Panerea. Like their more imposing neighbor they are volcanic (Stromboli is essentially always erupting a little) and popular with the tourists, welcoming some 600,000 visitors annually.  The year round population is a little smaller than Sicily’s 4.7 million though. According to the most recent count, there are just 15,419 permanent residents across the whole archipelago. Among the most notable you’d have to imagine is Antonio Caravaglia, whose family has been cultivating wine grapes on Salina and Lipari for 500 years or so. Nino, as he is known, was the first to produce his own bottlings, starting in 1989, and farming organically from the start. (He also continued growing and selling the other family crop: capers, for which Salina is apparently the best spot in the world. Anyway, all his wines are great and unique but the Salina Bianco is arguably the most immediately approachable and definitely the most affordable. Brimming with stone fruit, citrus, white flower and sea salt, it’s like Kerner on a beach vacation or Assyrtiko with an Italian accent. For the red, we return to the big island where a relative newcomer is farming a very specific spot: Guiseppe Cipolla started planting vines on his family’s land in southern central Sicily about 10 years ago. The area was once home to salt and sulfur mines, meaning the soil is a unique and mineral rich composite of chalky gypsum, halite, calcareous sulfur and and other types of salt deposits from the Messinian period about 5-6 million years ago. This bottling is called ‘Le Robbe’, which roughly translates to ‘the goods’ in local dialect. This might be because the wine is itself very good, or because the Guiseppe doesn’t know exactly what’s in it, or cause it contains  grapes from two sites, with vines anywhere from 15 to 230 years old. I’m not sure. I do know that it is the most impressive new wine I’ve had from Sicily since March - a veritable eternity in This-Particular-Island wine time.  Salud, Alan Hicks- Wine Buyer PlumpJack Wine & Spirits Noe Valley Caravaglio Salina Bianco 2024 Region: Salina and Lipari (Aeolian Islands) About the Winemaker: Few places in the world embody the philosophy of natural winemaking as effortlessly as does Salina, where Antonino Caravaglio crafts his peerless wines by hand. Part of the Aeolian Island chain off the coast of Sicily, Salina is a slice of paradise, created by volcanoes and carved by the Mediterranean winds. Caravaglio makes what he calls “island” wines, choosing to ferment on indigenous yeasts and limit the addition of sulfur, all so that Salina’s natural character—its volcanic soils, its sea-salty air, its wild herbs—is exactly what you taste and savor in each rare bottle. About the Winemaking: On the island of Salina, vineyards sit from 600 to 1,200 feet above sea level in the Malfa district (the highest quality vine-growing area) with a view of the Mediterranean. Soils are a mix of volcanic sand and rock. Vines are 20 to 30 years old. Hand-harvested and sorted in the fields. Gentle, full-cluster press; fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks. Aged in tank on fine lees for three months. Blend is 90% Malvasia delle Lipari, 10% other indigenous grapes.  Tasting Notes: In some order: Meyer lemon, peach pit, sea shells, herbs, white flower, salty acidity and a memory of honey, maybe.  Winemaker: Antonino Caravaglio Price per bottle / per case $25.99 / $280.70 Suggested Food Pairing:  Grilled vegetables, Grilled Octopus,  Spaghetti with Clams  Caper headlined dishes (see recipe)  Giuseppe Cipolla Passofonduto Rosso Le Robbe 2023  Region: Terre Siciliane IGT About the Winemaker: Passofonduto is located about 25 kms from Agrigento and the south coast of central Sicily on the edge of the province of Caltanisetta. This is a landscape of steep outcrops that was once a source of salt and sulfur. The mines now lay unused as the demand for rock salt and rock sulfur has moved over to industrial sources. But the richness in these minerals is evident in the soils all around making it a very unique area to cultivate vines.  In 2015 Giuseppe Cipolla began planting vines on a plot of land that his family cultivated mainly for other crops like grains, olives, fruits and legumes. Working with two other plots of grapes that were already established in the Contrade Torre di Salto d’ Angio and San Vicenzo he began the search for his ideal expression of terroir in the wines he started making. About the Winemaking: The grapes here come from two contrade. The first is the Contrada San Vicenzo, where 15 year old vines of Nero d'Avola trained in guyot grow in opaque limestone and dark clay. The second is the Contrada Torre di Salto d'Angio, where the vines are 230 years old and planted in alberello and pergola, including indigenous white grapes Giuseppe does not know the name of. These constitute roughly 15% of the blend. The grapes are destemmed and macerate for one to three days then ferment and age in barrel. A small amount of SO2 is added at press and during rackings. Tasting Notes: Wild strawberry, citrus, black tea tannins serenading a finely textured mineral core. Light and lively, does well with a slight chill.  Winemaker: Guiseppe Cipolla  Price per bottle / per case:  $49.99 / $539.98 Suggested Food Pairing:  Roast Turkey, Pasta, Meatier fish dishes Pizza Roasted Vegetables Pantesca Salad (see recipe)  Thanksgiving leftovers  Pantesca Salad  Pantesca salad is a Sicilian cuisine classic, quite versatile and great looking on a plate. The recipe includes boiled potatoes, tomatoes, onions, oregano, capers, and olives, but feel free to add oil-packed fish such as tuna and mackerel, roasted octopus, and even a head of lettuce.  Ingredients: 1 head of lettuce (optional) 4 medium-sized potatoes 16 (Pachino) cherry tomatoes 2 Tbsp. dark olives (pitted or not, as you like) 1 handful of salt-packed capers 2 Tropea red onions* extra-virgin olive oil basil, thyme, oregano, salt 2 glasses of wine vinegar Instructions:  Boil the potatoes in a pot with plenty of salted water, leaving the peel on.  When you can easily pierce a fork through the potatoes, drain them. Let cool a little bit, then remove the peels and chop the potatoes into large squares. Meanwhile, slice the onions and soak them in a bowl with the vinegar for at least 30 minutes. This will soften their sharp flavor. Rinse the capers well in a strainer, then pat them dry with paper towels.  Wash the tomatoes then slice them in half Combine the potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce (if you're including it), drained onions, olives, capers, and herbs (thyme, basil, and oregano) in a bowl. Season with salt and extra-virgin olive oil and mix. Let sit in the fridge for around 30 minutes before serving so that the flavors fuse together.  

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September 29, 2025

September Italian Wine Club: Emilia-Romagna

Tuscany may draw more tourists, but Emilia-Romagna, its neighbor to the north, mounts a mosaic of Italian cultural splendor everywhere you look. Stretching across north-central Italy, from the southeastern tip of Piedmont to the Adriatic Sea, the nine provinces that make up the region flaunt apogees in everything from cars (Ducati, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Maserati, and Pagani all rev their engines here); to cinema (Antonioni, Bertolucci, Pasolini, and Fellini are native sons; the latter’s immortal Amacord was filmed in his childhood home of Rimini on the Adriatic); to music (composers Verdi and Toscanini hail from the small town of Busseto and the City of Parma, respectively); to, of course, mosaics (the stunning early Christian art of one time Roman Empire capital Ravenna).  It’s an amazing place to venerate the heights of human craft and creativity - and then go eat, because Emilia-Romagna is also the food capital of Italy. Parma, the region’s second largest city is the birthplace of both Parmesan Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma; Bologna, the actual capital and largest city - which also houses the world’s oldest university - gifts the world ragù (bolognese sauce) and tagliatelle. Modena, hometown of the tenor Pavoratti, is also responsible for balsamic vinaigrette in its most elevated form. Nor is the region simply coasting on its culinary past – Osteria Francescana* in Modena, topped the ‘World 50 Best Restaurants’ list in 2016 and 2018 - and there are countless exceptional places to eat that are less famous and easier to get into.  The wine is great too of course, though sometimes it gets eclipsed by all the blinding excellence nearby. Viticulture in Emilia-Romagna is quite regionally specific and has developed roughly along the bifurcation traced by its hyphen. Emilia, the western part, which consists of the provinces of Piacenza, Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, and Ferrara, was settled by historically Barbarian populations, whose rich diet of butter and pork called for the palate cleansing properties of sparkling wine. Consequently, this is where Lambrusco, the sparkling red that is the region’s best known (and one of Italy’s oldest) wines, comes from. Romagna, made up of Ravenna, Forlì-Cesena, and Rimini in the east, was ruled by Romans and olive oil whose herb-y, oleaginous effect requires wine with more structure to balance the flavors in the mouth. Romagna is best known for the thick-skinned white grape Albana, whose roots in the region go back to antiquity (Albus = white in Latin) and is rarely seen outside it; and Sangiovese di Romagna, the local variation on the iconic red grape best known for Tuscan bottlings like Chianti and Brunello. This month, for the first time ever in the club, we have two sparkling selections, both from the aforementioned Emilia side of the divide. Some of you will inevitably find this detour more welcome than others, but there is just no way to do justice to Italian wine without covering the bubbles at some point. Plus, our producers here are both multi-generational frizzante 4 life families devoted to crafting world class effervescence via a doggedly local focus.  Salut, Alan Hicks - Wine Buyer - Noe Valley *The by the glass list there features 3 bottlings by Cantina della Volta. Donati Malvasia dell’Emilia Frizzante Secco 2023 Region: Vino Bianca, Emilia Romagna About the Winery: The Donati estate was started in 1930 and now run by its third generation-- Camillo, his wife and their children. They cultivate 11.5 hectares of vines (7.5 of which they own as Tenuta S. Andrea and four which are leased at Tenuta Bottazza) using organic and biodynamic practices. They are about 20 km away from Parma in the hillside at an altitude of around 250m with an eastern exposition. The Malvasia di Candia is historically from Crete, arriving in this part of Italy many centuries ago, and it is also one of the oldest known grapes. Up until 30-50 years ago, it was only vinified in sweet and demi-sec style, but Donati now makes both a dry and sweet Malvasia. About the Winemaking: All the grapes, including the white, are fermented like red wines (with skin contact), without temperature control, native yeasts, no fining, no acidification or de-acidification, no added Sulfur, etc. The carbonation of these frizzante wines comes from the traditional method of refermentation in bottle, a method that does not require preservatives and which makes this wine, unlike those produced in charmat method, age better. The wines are not filtered and are topped with a crown cap, a traditional closure for some decades in this region. There may be resulting sediment and the bottles should be poured somewhat carefully without a lot of intense movement. 100% Malvasia di Candia from biodynamically cultivated ~24 year-old vines planted to the clay soils of Via Costa in central-western Emilia-Romagna. Short maceration/spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel prior pressing and bottling a la ancestral method unfined, unfiltered, no additional SO2.  Tasting Notes: Peach, green apple and pear notes on the nose, lead to a palate defined by marmalade and apricot notes with herbal accents, fine bubbles and a snappy salinity on the finish.  Winemaker: Camillo Donati & family  Price per bottle / Price per case $24.99/$329.86 Suggested Food Pairing:  Grilled calamari with lemon and herbs fresh burrata with prosciutto di Parma Asparagus Risotto Seafood Pasta  Vegetable Tempura Cantina della Volta Brut Rosso  Region: Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC About the Winery: Cantina della Volta is the result of one hundred years of experience of the Bellei family, winemakers from Bomporto di Modena since 1920, of which the oenologist Christian is from the fourth generation of experience of the Bellei family, winemakers from Bomporto di Modena since 1920, of which the oenologist Christian is from the fourth generation. Despite the winery being in the heart of Lambrusco di Sorbara territory, Christian and his father Giuseppe have always nurtured a great passion for sparkling wines of the finest quality. After making numerous visits to Epernay, the capital of Champagne, to study the winemaking processes with the Traditional Method, they then applied it to the grapes in their own winery in Bomporto. This great passion for the Traditional Method led Christian Bellei to found the Cantina della Volta in 2010. The company is based in the original building of the Cantina Bellei, built by Christian’s great-grandfather on the banks of the Naviglio di Bomporto canal, near the 18th-century dock, where boats would perform la volta (‘the turnaround’) before setting sail once more to return back to the city of Modena. It is to this place, steeped in meaning and history, that we owe the symbol of the riverboat and the company name of the Cantina della Volta. About Winemaking: Harvested in the last week of September, Lambrusco di Sorbara Spumante D.O.C. is obtained from the single variety vinification of the best Lambrusco di Sorbara grapes. The wine undergoes the secondary fermentation in the bottle, sticking to the Classic Method procedure. Bottles are then stored horizontally at a constant room temperature of 12°C for at least nine months. After the rémuage and the disgorgement, liqueur d’expédition is added, then bottles are corked, wired and labeled. Tasting Notes: Brilliant ruby red color, with elegant and uninterrupted chains of tiny perlage, characteristic of the Classic Method. On the nose, inviting fragrances of raspberries and juicy wild strawberries mixed with intriguing citrus notes. On the palate, it begins true to the character of Sorbara, then unfolds into rich, fruity flavors. Nice finish, good persistence, excellent harmony in the balance of acid and salty flavors. Clean finish. Winemaker: Christian Bellei  Price per bottle / Price per case $29.99                 $323.90 Suggested Food Pairing:  Local fare like salami, prosciutto, mortadella, bresaola Bolognese Ragù, tortellini, ravioli, cannelloni e pizza.  But also spicy dishes of all kinds and even dark chocolate.  (Quick) Tortellini in Brodo Making tortellini from scratch is a family holiday tradition in Italy, but since you don’t always have the time or the numbers to make that happen, here is a quick way to enjoy a classic Lambrusco pairing. This one is vegetarian but pork is the traditional meat filling for the tortellini here.    Ingredients 1 Tbsp. olive oil 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1/8 tsp. red pepper flakes 6 cups (1 1/2 cartons, 32 oz. each) vegetable broth 1 pkg. (9 oz.) refrigerated cheese tortellini 1 pkg. (5 oz.) baby spinach leaves (about 5 cups packed) 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced fresh basil 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1/2 tsp. grated lemon zest Shredded Parmesan cheese, optional   Instructions Heat oil in a 5 to 6-qt. saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat; add garlic and red pepper flakes and cook 30 to 45 seconds, just until the garlic is lightly toasted. Remove pan from heat and slowly stir in broth. Return pan to heat. Bring broth to a boil over high heat; add tortellini. Reduce heat to medium; cover and simmer 1 minute less than recommended on tortellini package. Stir in spinach, basil, lemon juice and zest; cook about 1 minute or just until spinach is wilted. Serve immediately with additional basil and shredded Parmesan cheese, if desired.  

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August 4, 2025

Italian Wine Club July: Tuscany

TOSCANA Of all the convoluted, impenetrable, byzantine, clarity-hostile, sense-taunting barriers to understanding that the wine world tends to construct, the whole ‘Montepulciano’ pre-fab may be the most gratuitously unhelpful. Years ago, it even almost derailed yours truly’s nascent career. Having gotten a job in a wine shop despite knowing virtually* nothing about the subject, I checked out The Idiots Guide to Wine from the library, got to the part about Montepulciano and, in frustration, nearly threw the book across the room and gave up on the whole thing. But ruining a library book is kind of a karmic catastrophe and besides, I needed the job. So I took a deep breath, kept on reading, and here we are.  I think it’s possible that I’ve been carrying a latent bias against Vino Nobile de Montepulciano ever since though, since this is the first time I’ve ever used one in the Italian Wine Club. In my defense, here’s why: Montepulciano is both the name of an ancient hilltop town in Tuscany, and a grape grown all over central Italy, but primarily associated with the Abruzzo region (it is in fact, the 2nd most planted red varietal in Italy full-stop, after Sangiovese.) They DO NOT grow the grape Montepulciano in the town of Montepulciano however; there, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOC (est. 1966) and DOCG (1980) designations require at least 70% of each bottling consist of Prugnolo Gentile, which is the local name for the same Sangiovese clone used in Brunello di Montalcino DOCG wines - where it is called Sangiovese Grosso. The remainder can be made up of the Caniolo Nero grape, other local varietals like Mammolo (even trace amounts of white ones), and the resultant blend must be aged at least two years before release, of which one must be in wooden casks.  Got all that? No? I know just how you feel. (I mean how does that make any sense? Given that only 2.5% of the population spoke the standardized Italian language upon unification in 1861, it stands to reason there are different words for the same thing; I just didn’t think I’d have to deal with the same word for different things as well.)  Anyway, very generally the most important thing to remember is that on the Sangiovese spectrum, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano tends to fall somewhere between Chianti and Brunello. It can be fuller and more elegant than Chianti, with riper tannins and darker fruit (‘Prunello gentile’ means “gentle plum”), but not quite as opulent or ostentatious as Brunello. And after spending a couple of decades in Brunello’s shadow, Vino Nobile di Montapulciano is having a moment in the sun of late. Local producers are done trying to match their neighbor’s famous boldness, and are instead highlighting the unique qualities of their hometown terroir. While there are a lot of great new labels right now, this month, we are featuring one of the oldest and most consistent: Le Berne, which has been around since the 1960s.  The white selection, like many of the most interesting lighter hued wines coming out of Tuscany these days is, in fact, orange, since the grapes see some skin contact. In this case old vine Trebbiano from about 20km outside of Florence spends three months on its skins, and then a further 6 months in local clay amphoras. Prismatic and remarkably textured - salty, savory, aromatic and fruity - its protean streak is nicely structured by a balanced acidity.  Salut, Alan Hicks - Wine Buyer, Noe Valley (*I was aware wine came in different colors.)  Sammontana Primo Fuoco Bianco Toscana IGT 2021 Region: Tuscany About the Winery: Sammontana dates back to the 12th century and was once property of the acclaimed Medici family. Historically, the hamlet thrived from the production of grains, olive oil, wine and terracotta. Purchased in the 1860s by a Polish family, the winery is still today in their care after 4 generations. Wine has become the predominant business, thanks to 13 hectares of vineyards planted and maintained according to biodynamic farming. Throughout the winemaking process, experimentation is prevalent and while the approach rests largely on the laurels of the land, the current generation is inspired to create clean wines that avoid manipulation, chemicals, filtration, or clarification with a healthy dose of personality.  Gently sloping hillsides bordering the east side of the Arno river valley just 20km from Florence in Montelupo Fiorentino are host to Sammontana’s vineyards, planted between 70 and 150 meters above sea level. The soils here are alluvial, full of stones, gravel and pebbles which have historically posed as a nuisance to farmers but Sammontana feels they give character and personality to the wines. About the Winemaking: In the language of local pottery making, “Primo Fuoco” is the initial clay firing that leads to the creation of terracotta, an art that once defined the village of Montelupo near Sammontana. Primo Fuoco Bianco is an acute selection of the estate’s best Trebbiano grapes, fermented naturally and macerated on the skins for about 3 months before being matured for 6 months in a 500-liter terracotta amphora made from local red clay. Only 1,200 bottles are produced. Tasting Notes: Nice burnt amber color in the glass. Nose carries aromas of golden apples and peaches, herbs and honeysuckle. Palate adds orange peel, earl gray tea, saline minerality and creme brulee crust.  Winemaker: Daniele & Dario Dzieduszycki  Price per bottle / per case $36.99/$399.50 Suggested Food Pairing:  Cured meats Halibut or other white fish Lentil Stew Green Curry  Mapo Tofu  Szechuan Garlic Chicken Stir Fry  Le Bèrne Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2021 Region: Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG About the Winery: The name “Le Bèrne,” derived from the Etruscan word for “The Hill,” reflects its timeless connection to the landscape. In 1967, Giuliano Natalini and his father, Egisto Natalini, acquired the sharecropping farm where their family had once lived and worked the land. Setting aside mixed cultivation, they planted their first vineyard, laying the foundation for Le Bèrne’s wine production. Over the decades that followed, Giuliano and his wife, Ada, poured their devotion into the vineyards and refined their winemaking practices, ever focused on elevating the quality of their grapes. This blend of thoughtful viticulture and meticulous craftsmanship lies at the heart of Le Bèrne’s philosophy, affirming their enduring commitment to excellence and the land they cherish.  About the Winemaking: 100% Sangiovese from avg. 30 year old vines. White calcareous clay to marine red sand rich in iron. Natural fermentation without added yeasts, daily pumping overs with about 25 days of skin contact Aging in big 25 HL Slavonian oak barrels and partially in French barriques for 24 months.  Tasting Notes: Violets, dried cherry & earth. Silky tannins, bright acidity. Persistent, with well integrated oak. Full and round on the palate, with firm tannic finish. Winemaker: Andrea and Laura Natalini Price per bottle / per case $28.99/$313.10  Suggested Food Pairing:  Tortelli di patate alla toscana (see recipe)  Ragù of wild boar, Pork sausages, salumi, and grilled or roasted lamb  roasted wild mushrooms over polenta   Tagliatelle with black truffles and olive oil.   Tortelli di Patate alla Toscana This traditional Tuscan recipe is typical of the provinces of Firenze and Prato. The tortello is a big ravioli stuffed only with a potato mix without any meat. It is served either with meat sauce (duck ragu is recommended), or with butter, sage and Parmigiano cheese.  Ingredients:  (serves 6) • 400gr flour 00 (double zero) • 50gr semolina flour • 6 eggs • 1kg potatoes (Russets or Yukon Gold) • 1⁄2 tbsp. butter • 3 tbsp. Parmigiano cheese • 1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg • Salt & pepper Instructions: On a clean surface make a mound with the semolina flour Create a hollow space in the middle of the flour and crack inside 4 eggs Mix the compound until the dough doesn’t get smooth and elastic Let rest for half hour covered by a humid dish towel In a pot filled with cold water add the potatoes and bring to boil until cooked Peel the potatoes and press them through a ricer Add 2 eggs, butter, parmigiano, nutmeg, salt & pepper to the potatoes and mix together Set the filling aside Get the pasta dough and cut it in two pieces Using a rolling pin roll the dough until you get a smooth sheet, thin but strong enough to stretch Roll the other sheet of pasta dough in the same way and set aside being careful that it doesn’t stick together Make small balls, about 1⁄2 inch big, with the potatoes stuffing and set on the pasta sheet on the table at 2 inch distance from each other filling all the sheet Delicately set the other pasta sheet on top of the other one With your fingers press gently around each filling to get rid of any air When all the stuffings are properly pressed and using a ravioli cutting wheel cut a square of dough with the filling in the center separating each tortello Bring a pot of water to boil and cook the tortelli It will not be a long time, as soon they start to float you should drain them and dress with your favorite sauce

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June 27, 2025

June 2025 Italian Wine Club

LIGURIA  Though arguably most associated with France, the Riviera - as concept, aspiration, and actuality - originates in Liguria, in northwestern Italy. The word itself is Italian for “coastline,” and was first applied to the 350 miles of waterfront that traces the narrow corridor between the Maritime Alps, the Apennine mountains and the Ligurian Sea. When 19th century English vacationers strolled over the northern border with France, they extended their remit to encompass the Cotes D’Azur and present-day Monaco (where a variation of the Ligurian dialect, called Monégasque, is still a compulsory subject in local schools). The etymology of ‘Liguria’ itself is much older and more obscure, though the word is likely derived from the ancient Ligures people, who are thought to have once occupied a remarkably large swath of Mediterranean Europe, including parts of Southern France, present-day Catalonia on the Iberian Peninsula, and Piedmont down to Sicily, in Italy. Not sure why this once vast aggregation ended up appellate to Italy’s third-smallest region, but it's appropriate because Liguria has always supported multitudes.  Indeed, while I’ve thus far struggled mightily to avoid this particular tourist trap in IWC, I might as well take the L here and concede defeat: Liguria is an actual land of contrasts. One of the most densely populated parts of Italy, the territory is 65% mountains, and 80% of the inhabitants choose to live elsewhere - in the conurbations that limn the coast: Sanremo, Savonia, La Spezia and Genoa, Italy’s busiest seaport and the regional capital. You can pivot your visit around cityscapes and beaches, and/or hike up to and around alpine villages carved out of rock, including the world-famous but still surprisingly inaccessible ring of fishing villages known collectively as Cinque Terre. You will hear a dialect bearing traces of Portuguese, Sardinian, Celtic and Arabic that is barely intelligible to other Italians; you will not see (or taste) many tomatoes - an afterthought in the birthplace of pesto. You will drink beach wine whose breezy maritime resonances belie the backbreaking work required to make them.  Like most places in Italy, Liguria’s enological story began in antiquity. It’s not certain whether the Greeks or the Phoenicians introduced the vine to Liguria, but by the time the Romans passed through the region, wine from Liguria was prized both for its quality and its scarcity. This remains true today, as only the much smaller and less populated Vallee D’Aosta produces less vino by volume per annum. Both places require what the Italians call viticulture eroica (heroic viticulture), as vineyards occupy impossibly steep slopes hostile to machinery of any kind, necessitating painstaking by-hand cultivation to pry these tiny yields from the recalcitrant dirt. Our two selections this month pretty much epitomize this ethos. The white comes from Punta Crena, one of my favorite wineries in the world. The Ruffino family behind it have been farming the same vineyards above the tiny beach village of Varigotti for 500 years; the current generation even builds their stone terraces by hand. The grape is Pigato, often confused with Vermentino, though the Ruffinos are dedicated to illustrating the difference.  The Ka' Manciné winery responsible for the red is new to me but equally impressive.  Maurizio Anfosso and Roberta Repaci, the couple behind the label, are focused on the Rossese di Dolceacqua grape, an exceedingly rare light red varietal grown only in the Riviera (including in France, where it is known as Tibouren). They farm some of the tallest vineyards in the region, in a village called Soldano, which has its own dialect. This Rossesse comes from vines planted in 1872, and it is a savory and mineral-driven revelation.  Salut! Alan Hicks Punta Crena Pigato Riviera Ligure di Ponente Vigneto Ca’ da Rena 2023 Region: Liguria, Italy  About the Winery: The tiny village of Varigotti comprises just a few rows of houses and restaurants along a pristine Mediterranean beach. Climb up into the hills, and you will discover neatly terraced vineyards on the slopes and in hidden clearings further up on the peaks. The Ruffino family has been living here and tending to these vineyards for more than 500 years. Today four siblings run the estate: Tommaso, the eldest, is the winemaker; Paolo is the salesman; Anna handles logistics; and Nicola helps out in the vineyards and winery. Their cellars are in Varigotti, pop. 500 (though that doubles during the summer months). The vineyards of Punta Crena (which is named for a large promontory jutting into the sea at the edge of the village) are all within 1,200 meters of the water and enjoy sea breezes that help keep the grapes healthy and happy. Ask Paolo if the family follows organic methods in the vineyards and he’ll laugh. We’re not “organic,” he says as if you had asked about some crazy new technology. We just do everything the same way our ancestors have for hundreds of years. They even build their stone terraces by hand, using the method established here three thousand years ago. About the Winemaking: The terraced vineyards are at 100-300 m altitude and within 1.2 km of the sea. Everything is vinified in stainless steel. No machines are used for pumping over; the pressure resulting from the release of gas during fermentation is used instead, and the wines are neither filtered nor fined. The rocks in Varigotti have an unusually high aluminum content; as the rock breaks down, the aluminum is released and washes into the clay soil, where over several years it oxidizes and turns red. This soil is found only in Varigotti and certain areas of Provence (which is just a few hours away by car).  Pigato is a genetic variation of Vermentino that developed around the 18th century and was probably named for its pighe—“freckles” in the local dialect, referring to its spotty skin. Today, the two varieties are often confused because they are frequently planted together and cross-pollinate in the vineyards, but the difference is evident when they are kept separate, as at Punta Crena. In order to demonstrate this distinction scientifically, the Ruffinos are planning to provide cuttings of their own vines to a local university for comparative genetic testing.   Tasting Notes: Light-medium-bodied with piquant acidity and herbal qualities that counter the mid-weight concentration of orchard fruits, all of which is left lingering on the finish with a subtle saline minerality and almond.  Winemaker: Tommaso Ruffino Price per bottle / per case: $31.99/$345.50 Suggested Food Pairing:  Perfect on its own,  but also makes a great match for pesto pasta, light seafood preparations, and mild cheeses. Pesto pasta w/ potatoes and green beans (see recipe) Ka' Manciné Rossese Di Dolceacqua ‘Bergana’ 2023 Region: Rossese di Dolceaqua DOC About the Winery: Ka' Manciné is a tiny estate in western Liguria, almost on the border with France, in the Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC. Maurizio Anfosso and Roberta Repaci own about 3 hectares of the Rossese variety, in the Beragna and Galeae crus. Maurizio and Roberta's wines are pale in color, medium-bodied, extremely fresh and spicy, with a lovely silky texture and refreshing juiciness. Lighter red wines are some of the best food wines, and these are some of Italy's most attractive examples. Rossese del Dolceacqua is a local grape grown in a very limited area (about 200 acres, for a total production of 200,000 liters) on steep terraces made of schists and marls facing mostly East and South-East at altitudes between 300 and 450 meters above sea level. The very old and low-yielding vines are planted at high density (up to 8000 vines per hectare) in the classic Greek bush system. Maurizio Anfosso and Roberta Repaci, owners of Ka Mancinè, work the beautiful vineyards of Beragna and Galeae manually, with sheer respect for the environment and in harmony with the land.  About the Winemaking:  100%  Rossese. The Beragna vineyard was planted on its own roots in 1872 on very steep terraces facing southeast on schists and marls, at an altitude of about 400 meters. Harvested the second half of September with ten days' maceration and controlled low-temperature fermentation in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts 7 months aging in stainless steel.  No fining, light filtration prior to bottling. 12,000 bottles produced annually. Tasting Notes: Beragna is brimming with cherry and strawberry fruit and hints of dried herbs, spice and pepper. The palate is juicy and refreshing with crisp acidity and mineral notes. Winemaker: Maurizio Anfosso and Roberta Repaci  Price per bottle / per case:  $21/$226.80 Suggested Food Pairing:  Pesto pasta w/ potatoes and green beans (see recipe)  spaghetti allo scoglio,  braised rabbit with taggiasca olives and pine nuts. Pesto pasta with shrimp and prosciutto Clams w/ oregano and bread crumbs.  Pesto Pasta Liguria with Potatoes and Green Beans Doesn’t get more quintessentially Ligurian than this. Basil pesto or pesto Genovese is ubiquitous in Ligurian cuisine, the regional calling card. This pesto pasta Liguria with potatoes and green beans recipe is one of the most traditional ways they eat pesto here, and it is always homemade. Ingredients 320 g corzetti pasta or Trofie or trenette (or trofie or linguine or fettuccine or penne.)  120 g fresh green beans 120 g potatoes You can use red potatoes. I like new potatoes. For the pesto 4 handfuls of fresh basil leaves, preferably young.  (In Liguria they use Basilico Genovese D.O.P.)  30 g pine nuts (I like to toast mine.) 50 g Parmesan (In Liguria they use aged Parmesan)  30 g Pecorino from Sardinia 1-2 garlic cloves peeled. (In Liguria they use garlic from Vessalico) coarse sea salt for pasta and to taste extra virgin olive oil as required                                                                                 Instructions  Make the pesto If it’s possible, choose medium sized young basil leaves (brighter green). Rinse the leaves under water and dry them with paper towels. Dry fry the pine nuts for 2-3 minutes if you prefer to have them toasted. Using a pestle and mortar Peel the garlic cloves and put them into a mortar with pine nuts. Grind until you have a paste. Then add some basil leaves, a little coarse salt, and 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Keep working with the pestle, while continuing to add more basil leaves and olive oil until the pesto is smooth and consistent. Finally, transfer to a bowl and add the cheeses and stir well.  Using a blender or mini food processor You can either put all the ingredients in the blender and pulse a few seconds at a time until you have the right consistency. Don’t keep pulsing for too long at once as the blender will heat up and this can spoil the basil. Alternatively, crush the pine nuts in a pestle and mortar or with a hammer. Blend the olive, oil, basil, salt and garlic until you have the right consistency. Add the cheese and crushed pine nuts after. Mix well with a fork or wooden spoon.  Cooking the other ingredients Wash the vegetables, then top and tail the green beans and cut them into 2 or 3 pieces. Peel the potatoes and cut into cubes. Fill a large pot with water and bring to boil, then add the sea salt. Either boil the vegetables along with pasta until all are “al dente”, or cook separately. You can cook the beans and potatoes together and then remove them to a bowl with a slotted spoon. (I did this) Finally, cook the pasta al dente in the vegetable water according to the instructions on the packet. Save a cup of the cooking water and drain the pasta. Mix the pesto with the potatoes and green beans in a frying pan over a low heat for a minute or in a bowl. Then add the drained pasta and a little pasta cooking water. Mix everything together carefully and serve with extra grated cheese and some more toasted pine nuts if required.

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May 28, 2025

Italian Wine Club May 2025: Campania

CAMPANIA As we have learned from many visits here in IWC, when it comes to vino-spewing volcanoes, Mt. Etna in Sicily tends to attract the most oxygen, not just in terms of Italy, but Europe too, and even the whole rest of the world. This makes some sense: there may be more active Mts. BOOM! on the planet (if only a few), but none clear near as much fermented grape juice.  But Etna’s centrality qua oenology tends to obscure the extent to which the rest of the Apennine Peninsula anchors a veritable Mediterranean Ring of (the fancy and mild kind of) Firewater. For instance, did you know that there is an island in the Aeolian archipelago north of Sicily that’s actually called Vulcano? Also known as “the Gates of Hell” in ancient times, and so named originally b/c the Romans thought it the chimney of Vulcan, their god of fire. It is, as you might have guessed, where the word volcano comes from. That place has been dormant since 1888 and, to my knowledge, they don’t make wine there (only 450 residents), but its Aeolian sibling Stromboli has been erupting for so long - 2,000 years - it is nicknamed “Lighthouse of the Mediterranean.” There is some wine made there apparently (future club material?) though the major viticulture hot spot in the chain is Salina which, of course, also has volcanoes.  And that’s just the islands. Moving to the mainland gets us to Campania, our May destination, which boasts the dormant-portent Campi Flegrei (Fiery Fields) to the west of Naples, quiet for now but apparently worth keeping an eye on. Then of course, there’s Vesuvius. Infamous for destroying the Roman cities of Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplontis and Stabiae in 79 AD, it remains the most active volcano on the European continent (it’s the only one to have erupted in the last 100 years), and one of the most hazardous anywhere, due to the fact that 3,000,000 people live near enough to be affected by an eruption, with at least 600,000 in the danger zone.  So there is a good reason why less viticulture gets attempted on its slopes - it’s dangerous! - which makes it only right we recognize the efforts of anybody intrepid enough to plant despite the risk. Massimo Setaro has made it his mission to showcase the mountain’s unique attributes, starting with an obscure white grape called Caprettone, which takes its name from the fact that Vesuvio’s vineyards face the tiny island of Capri to the west. Only identified as a separate varietal in 2014, it is at the heart of Massimo’s project, and in his hands achieves a dynamic combination of ripe, round fruit and vigorous acidity, underpinned by a smoke-salt interplay that reflects its very specific provenance.  The red is made from the Aglianico grape, which arguably remains Campania’s calling card. Full bodied and late ripening enough that it cannot be grown any farther north, Aglianico is sometimes known as the ‘Barolo of the South’ due to its elegant tannins and aging potential. Indeed, Irpinia, the east-central area of Campania near Avellino where this month’s selection is grown and made, has weather, terroir and vegetation very similar to Piedmont, Barolo’s home in the North. Taurasi is the DOCG within Irpinia practically synonymous with Aglianico (though Aglianico di Vulture, from the bordering Basilicata region is also great.) This bottling, from the great I Favati winery (select as one of Wine & Spirit Magazine’s top 100 in 2023) is 100% Aglianico from declassified Taurasi fruit, robust and age-worthy but with a freshness compatible with whatever version of summer the Bay is gonna offer us this year.  Salut, Alan Hicks - Wine Buyer, Noe Valley Casa Setaro ‘Munazei’ Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco  Region: Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio DOC  About the Winery:  The wines of Vesuvio have a long and storied history, but local specialties like the dramatically named Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio (“Christ’s Tears on Vesuvius”) have fallen into relative obscurity in recent decades.  Massimo Setaro is seeking to transform the zone’s reputation and bring the wines of Vesuvio the modern-day recognition he feels they deserve. Heir to the renowned Setaro pasta-making enterprise, fourth-generation Massimo founded Casa Setaro in 2004, beginning with his family’s small pre-phylloxera holdings around their hometown of Trecase on Vesuvio’s southern slopes. Massimo has since planted new parcels, and today the estate totals 12 hectares–notably, of exclusively own-rooted plant material, as this zone’s unforgiving volcanic sand is inhospitable to phylloxera. He works only with indigenous varieties: Piedirosso and Aglianico for his reds; and, while he does grow terrific Fiano and Greco, the characterful and hyper-local Caprettone is what drives his imagination and forms the basis of his most distinctive white wines. About the Winemaking: Manual selection of the grapes, destemming and draining span, of the flower must, fermentation at controlled temperature for about 20 days In steel for 6 months and for 2 months in the bottle. Tasting Notes: Aromas of citrus, tropical fruit, crushed stones. Weighty and concentrated, yet balanced; a vibrant, mineral core. Winemaker: Massimo Setaro Price per bottle / per case $25.99        $280.70 Suggested Food Pairing:  Neapolitan Pizza Margherita,  seafood fritto misto,  crudo of salmon with orange and lemon. Spaghetti w/ white clam sauce I Favati Irpinia Campi Taurasini ‘Cretarossa’ 2017 Region: Irpinia DOC  About the Winery:  The I Favati winery has been recognized as one of the outstanding Italian producers of fine wines and grappa. Passion, and a culture of good wine, are a tradition that has been carried on by this great family since the early decades of the last century. Located in Irpinia, famous for its beauty, its rich volcanic soil, and its wine, the company is expertly managed by winemaker Rosanna Petrozziello, her husband Giancarlo Favati, her brother-in-law Piersabino Favati, and daughter Carla Giusy Favati. This dynamic family, along with enotechnico, Vincenzo Mercurio, handle every aspect of this family business, managing the vineyards, the harvest, the production and marketing. Their vineyards are located within the Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo and Taurasi DOCG zones. All together they have 16 hectares of Irpinia’s unique, indigenous, grape varieties. The cellar is equipped with the most advanced winemaking technology, complementing the careful work in the vineyards. Rosanna oversees each stage of the process assuring the best outcome of each cycle to guarantee the high quality of all wines produced. About the Winemaking: I Favati are practicing organic. They only intervene in the vineyard when necessary and even then will spray with copper or sulfur, organic approved chemicals that help prevent fungus and rot. The grapes go directly to press after picking and are pressed in an anaerobic (no oxygen) environment, the wine is fermented at low temperatures and without the presence of oxygen (keeping oxygen from contacting the wine is a difficult process and expensive, which is why conventional winemakers use additives so they do not have to worry as much about keeping the O2 out). They use 2g of Sulfur per quintal of grapes (~200lbs). They do not add anything else to the wine. There is no fining or filtration, only racking, which is the process of keeping the wine at cool temperatures and letting the sediment fully settle before simply draining the wine off. The small annual production between 40,000 and 50,000 bottles reflects their mission to achieve the highest quality rather than the largest quantity. Elevation: 450-500 meters (1,480-1640 feet) above sea level. Clayey soils in hilly terrain. 15 and five years old and 5 years old vines planted in the Guyot system. 8,000 kg (about 3.2 tons per acre) Harvest date: First 10 days of November.  Tasting Notes: Concentrated aromas of pepper, black cherry, anise, and oak. On the palate the wine denotes concentrated fruit, good acidity, alert and enjoyable tannins. Winemaker: Rosanna Petrozziello Price per bottle / per case $32.99                $356.30 Suggested Food Pairing:  Tagliatelle with bread crumbs; roast lamb;  semi aged cheese;  Salumi Fusilli giganti con noci, salsiccia e pomodorini (see recipe)  Fusilli giganti con noci, salsiccia e pomodorini (Large fusilli pasta with walnuts, sausages and cherry tomatoes) This recipe from Avellino province works all year around. The walnuts impart a nutty earthy flavor that really compliments the I Favati Cretarossa. Ingredients (serves 4) • 8 oz. Fusilli • 8 walnuts, no shell, chopped • 2 Italian pork sausages, cut in rough pieces and with the case removed • 5-6 cherry tomatoes, each one cut in four pieces • 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil • 1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced • 1 tsp. crushed chili pepper • 1⁄2 cup dry red wine • Salt & pepper • 1⁄2 cup grated Auricchio* cheese Instructions:  In a medium size sauté pan heat olive oil then add the onion and the chili pepper  Sauté the onion until golden with the chili pepper on medium-low heat flame Add the chopped walnut, cover the pan, lower the heat and cook for about 5 minutes to help the walnuts to release their own oil  Uncover the pan, add the sausages and raise the flame to medium heat to cook until the meat is seared evenly  Add the wine and let it reduce then lower the flame again Meantime in a large pot bring the water to boil, add 1 Tbsp. of coarse salt and drop in the pasta 5 minutes before the pasta is ready add the cherry tomatoes to the sauce and cook on medium-low heat until the pasta is ready Serve with a sprinkle of Auricchio cheese * Gennaro Auricchio created Auricchio cheese in 1877 in Napoli. It can be made with sheep or cow milk. When aged, the taste is similar to provolone cheese.

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March 19, 2025

Italian Wine Club March 2025: East of Etna

Over The Volcano  “Two mountain chains traverse the republic roughly from north to south, forming between them a number of valleys and plateaux."  Thus begins Under The Volcano, Malcolm Lowry’s unforgettable account of sozzled oblivion.  He’s talking about Mexico, but the imagery could just as easily conjure Sicily: the largest island in the Mediterranean, traversed by several mountain ranges, culminating in Mount Etna, the world’s most active strato, or composite, volcano. And while you can’t observe Etna’s IRL song of fire and ice from everywhere in Sicily - the Nebrodi mountains effectively shield it from most of the west - my guess is it looms and squats across the minds of most who exist below it.  Etna has certainly taken center stage on our previous two trips to Sicily in the club because well,  making wine on the side of an active volcano is inherently pretty awesome and dramatic. But this go-round we’re gonna move past the magma to sample other genera of great juice the island has to offer.    And there’s a lot: 135,000 hectares of vineyards – more than in all of Bordeaux -- a winemaking history some 2500 years old, and an alphabet (from Acitana to Zibibbo) of native varietals thriving in near ideal viticultural conditions, make Sicily one of the most diverse and exciting wine destinations on the planet. While there are arguably more celebrated (and certainly more expensive) wine regions in Italy, none can match Sicily’s particular alchemy of terroirs, grapes, and intrepid vignerons steeped in local tradition and relatively unencumbered by the fine print of  Italy’s wine classification system.  For instance, if we take the island’s eastern coast, and traverse it almost straight north to south, we will encounter both of our selections this month, at opposite corners. The red hails from the bluffs of Messina, from which Straits that separate Sicily from mainland Italy, take their name. On clear days, you can see Calabria (only two miles away at the closest point.) Here we find Azienda Agricola Palari, the passion project of architect Salvatore Geraci. After inheriting his grandfather’s 18th century villa and a handful of vineyards in the area, he enlisted some help and began producing superlative reds from the indigenous grapes still growing there. Some, like Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, are also grown in the Etna DOC; others - Core ’e Palumba, Acitana, Galatena and Jacché - don’t grow anywhere else at all. But they all benefit from this rare microclimate that exists 600 m above sea level but only 1.5 km from the actual sea. The resultant bottlings recall their Enta brethren but foreground a specific depth and rustic savoriness all their own.  About 110 miles south, and slightly inland lies Ragusa, the location of Sicily’s only DOCG status wine region, Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Only reds are produced under that designation, but the area also yields many fine and affordable white wines. The village of Chiaramonte Gulfi sits on a hilltop 668 metres above sea level in Ragusa, and is referred to as The Balcony of Sicily due to its panoramic perch between Iparri Valley and the Mediterranean Sea to the south, Mount Etna northward and the Erean Mountains in the west. It is a great place from which to make a pronouncement presumably,  and and few years ago, the famous Sicilian centenarian olive olive company Francoci Cutrera, announced they would be making wine (with help from some friends) in this very area, and calling it Akrille, for the Greek settlement from 600 B.C. that once stood there. Their Grillo, like everything on the label, comes from 15 hectares of vineyards at altitudes of 500-600 metres, and soil composed of clay, limestone and stones with a south-east and south-west exposure. It is an immediately appealing vista of blue sky acidity, orange blossom and a surprisingly lingering finish. Salud, Alan Hicks- Wine Buyer PlumpJack Wine & Spirits Noe Valley Arkille Grillo 2023 Region: Ragusa, Sicilia DOC About the Winemaker: The name “Akrille" represents a deep connection with the ancient origins of Chiaramonte Gulfi, the town where the homonymous winery founded by the Bastianich and Cutrera families was born. Two families distant in geography but united by a passion: to express the Italian territory through the ancient arts of Wine and Oil. About the Winemaking: The grapes, well ripe and selected in the vineyard, are harvested in the last ten days of August and taken to temperature-controlled steel fermentation tanks. After a short carbonic maceration and alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature between 15 and 18 degrees, it is matured for about 5 months in steel. The wine is put on the market after a refinement in the bottle for about 2 months.  Tasting Notes: Straw yellow color with greenish reflections. Presents floral notes initially - white flowers -  followed by citrus. Elements of marked sapidity and minerality emerge on the palate. The finish is long and pleasant, with an aftertaste of pear, pineapple and jasmine. Winemaker: Peppe Romano,  Nino Di Marco & Emilio del Medico Price per bottle / per case $24.99/$269.90 Suggested Food Pairing:  Stuffed Olives  Ricotta Risotto Cajun Crab  Lemon Caper Sea Bream  Palari Rosso del Soprano 2019  Region: Terre Siciliane IGT About the Winemaker:  Though Salvatore Geraci’s family has farmed and made wine in Messina province for generations, he discovered fine wines by way of Burgundy. In the 1980s, his success as an architect allowed him to become a collector. With the encouragement of legendary Italian wine critic and gastronome Luigi Veronelli, he decided to make his own wine from vineyards planted in Faro by his grandparents in the 1930s, recruiting his agronomist brother Giampiero and the renowned  Piedmont enologist Donato Lanati, who  was professor of Wine Technology at the University of Turin for 17 years.  About the Winemaking: The terrain is blessed with a unique microclimate due to its dramatic rise in altitude of 1,475 feet above sea level within an eight mile range. The vines grow on steep slopes, requiring the  grapes to  be handpicked and placed into small baskets. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks under controlled temperature and the wine is aged in French oak barrels for one year and at least 8 months in the bottle. Blend is Nerello Mascalese, Cappuccio, Nocera, and a small fraction of Acitana, Galatena, Jacché, and Cor ’e Palumba. Tasting Notes: Herbs, spices and red fruit on the nose lead to a layered palate with  darker fruit accented by savory notes  of mediterranean brush spice, licorice and graphite.  Winemaker: Salvatore Geraci & Donato Lanati Price per bottle / per case:  $46.99/$507.50  Suggested Food Pairing:  Rigatoni alla Norma (Eggplant Rigatoni) Monkfish with olives, capers and tomatoes Barbecue Chicken  Sea Bass with Sicilian Cherry Tomato Sauce Here’s a simple recipe you can make with any fish, but especially rich and oily including mackerel and bluefish.          Ingredients:  2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 anchovy fillets, drained and minced 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1/2 cup pitted and coarsely chopped oil-cured black olives 2 tablespoons drained and chopped capers 1/8 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 1 pound cherry tomatoes, halved Sea salt Freshly ground black pepper Extra-virgin olive oil, for oiling pan and brushing fillets 4 wild sea bass fillets (6 ounces each) Finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for serving     Instructions:  1. To make the sauce: Heat the oil and anchovies in a large saucepan over medium heat, stirring often, until the anchovies are sizzling and broken down into a paste, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it begins to brown around the edges, about 1 minute. Stir in the olives, capers, and red pepper flakes and cook until heated through, about 2 minutes. Stir in the cherry tomatoes and season to taste with the salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes begin to break down, about 10 minutes. Set the sauce aside. 2. Oil a large ridged grilling pan and heat it over medium-high heat. Brush the sea bass on both sides with oil and season with the salt and pepper. Place on the grill, skin side down, and grill until the underside is seared with grill marks, about 3 minutes. Flip the fresh fish over and cook until the other side is seared and the flesh is opaque when pierced in the center with the tip of a small sharp knife, about 3 minutes more. Transfer each fillet to a dinner plate and top with a spoonful of the sauce. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.  

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March 2, 2025

Italian Wine Club February 2025: Veneto

Wine might not be the first thing you associate with Italy’s Veneto region. That’d likely be Venice, the capital, and one of the most famous places on the planet, endlessly mythologized, celebrated, depicted - in art, literature, photos, film - simulated (the fake version in Vegas), and visited. The city hosts many millions of tourists every year, and most don’t venture much further - even though, this being Italy, there’s plenty of other mind blowing stuff nearby. Verona, where Romeo met Juliet, for instance; or Padua, where the Cappella degli Scrovegni houses Giotti’s epochal frescoes. Or the Dolomite Alps and Lake Garda, for breathtaking natural beauty.  It’s a lot to take in. But, this being Italy, you’re also not not thinking about wine, and when you get thirsty, there are a lot of choices, because by one specific metric - volume of vino produced per annum - Veneto is the wine capital of Italy. Though 4th largest in population, and only 8th by size, Veneto produces some 8.8 million hectolitres of wine each year, good for 18% of Italy’s and 3% of the entire world’s annual total. White wine is responsible for 80% of the output - sparkling Prosecco and still Soave mostly, and most of it decent but not terribly memorable.  The wines of Graziano Prà however, constitute a category all their own. Though the winery only dates back to the 1980s, it is easily one of the most important spots for white wine in all of Italy. Graziano’s family has owned these vineyards for generations, but never bottled their yields until 1983, when the first edition of this month’s wine, Prà’s flagship Soave ‘Otto’ bottling was released. As of the mid-00’s, Prà’s production includes red wines, but the heart of the endeavor remains Soave, made from the native Garganega grape. Pra’s vineyards are situated in the heart of the appellation, in Monteforte D’Alpone, just east of Verona, on some of the only volcanic soil in Northern Italy. Everything is farmed organically and hand-harvested from old vines. The result is Soave that is vivid, fresh, flavorful, and capable of aging in the bottle, a revelation if you're only used to the mass produced stuff.  The reds, on the other hand, are a conurbation almost as distinctive as Venice itself; 240 square kilometers of indigenous grapes and bespoke production methods in the foothills of the Alps gathered under the letters ‘Valpolicella.’’The word itself dates back to the 12th century, is thought to be a mix of ancient Latin and Greek and means “valley of many cellars,” which remains accurate given that the Valpolicella DOC ranks just behind Chianti in terms of red wine production in Italy. There are five different tiers/styles of Valpolicella: Classico, Classico Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto. All are blends of the same four local varietals - Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone, and Molinara - which are grown throughout the region (and almost nowhere else); collectively they cover every station of your traditional repast, from aperitivo (Classico) to dolce (Recioto).  Classico Superiore, requires at least one year of aging, often in oak, and is fuller than regular Classico, sometimes with hints of the vanilla, smoke clove aromas of Amarone and Ripasso. Valpolicella Classico comes from the finest terroir in the DOC, just northwest of Verona, and consisting of three vertically-running valleys - Fumane, Marano and Negrar. It is light, fruit forward, and does well with a slight chill.  Salud, Alan Hicks Wine Buyer PlumpJack Wine & Spirits Noe Valley Prà Soave Classico ‘Otto’ 2023 Region: Soave, Veneto, Italy About the Winery: ​​The Prà holdings consist of 30 HA in Soave and 8 HA in Valpolicella. Graziano was always a big believer in natural viticulture and its positive effect on the wines and has farmed organically since the outset. His vineyards in Soave as well as in Morandina in Valpolicella are certified organic. All grapes are harvested by hand both in Soave and Valpolicella. The terroir in Monteforte d’Alpone in Soave features classic, very black, volcanic soils which help to impart an underlying power and minerality to the wines. As Ian D’Agata of Vinous points out, “Prà is especially adept at ensuring the wines also showcase a remarkable degree of finesse.” Much of the plantings were done in the late 70’s, so the average vine age is quite high, especially for the region. Additionally, Graziano was one of the first to see the higher potential of certain sub-parcels in the appellation – for both complexity and ageability – and began producing vineyard-designated wines in Soave early on before it became popular in the region among the better producers. His single-parcel, Monte Grande, was first produced in 1988, and he has since added two other special “Garganega Selection” Soaves, Staforte and Colle Sant’Antonio, each with its own unique formula both in the vineyards and the cellar. About the Winemaking: Sourced from vineyards in the Soave Classico zone of Monteforte d'Alpone, southeast facing, 150 to 250 meters in elevation, volcanic soil. Vine age is 30 to 60 years. Grapes are organically grown, hand harvested, fermented and aged in stainless steel for about six months. Tasting Notes: Bright and delicious, a mid-weight white, with aromas and flavors of green apple, flowers, almond, and citrus, bullseye acidity, and an appropriately volcanic mineral finish.  Winemaker: Graziano Prà Price per bottle / per case: $26.99/$291.50 Suggested Food Pairing:  Sweet Parma ham Spaghetti Vongole  Pasta dishes with garlic  Scallops Risotto with lake fish (see recipe)  Pasta e Fasoi (Venetian vegetable soup) Monte Dall’Ora ‘Camporenzo’ Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2019  Region: Vallpolicella, Veneto, Italy  About the Winery: Located in the center of Valpolicella on one of the five ridges that descend into the valley (which resemble the fingers of a hand), Monte Dall'Ora is the creation of Carlo Venturini and Alessandra Zantedeschi. Both are from vigniaoli families, but decided to start fresh with their own estate in 1995. At the time, the purchased terraces were in terrible condition and everything had to be rebuilt. Vines are either selection massale or grafted on American Rootstock. Carlo has chosen to work with (and in some cases, replant) the region's traditional varietals: Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Oseleta (a lost indigenous grape). The estate was worked organically until 2006, when the couple converted to biodynamic agriculture. The soils are unique to their particular ridge, and are composed of limestone with a reddish hue. The first 15 meters are very soft and porous, permitting the vines' roots to penetrate deep in the subsoil. About the Winemaking: 40% Corvina/30% Corvinone/ 20% Rondinella/10% Molinara & Oseleta. Monte dall'Ora Camporenzo vineyard is a few kilometers from the home vineyard but is similar in its hilliness and its crumbly limestone soils over limestone rock. The Venturini family planted it with traditional Valpolicella varieties in 2008; the vines are trained in guyot rather than in the more traditional pergola of their estate vineyard. The farming is also biodynamic here and the harvest is by hand into small bins. The fruit is destemmed and gently pressed; spontaneous fermentation takes place with native yeasts and without sulfur in tank. Maceration lasts 7-8 days with periodic manual punch-downs. The wine is aged for about 6 months in concrete, followed by 6 months in bottle. It is bottled without filtration and with a small amount of sulfur.  Tasting Notes: “The 2019 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Camporenzo is smoky and spicy from the first tilt of the glass, as crushed stone blows off to reveal peppery herbs and wild berries. This washes across the palate with a pretty inner sweetness up front contrasted by mineral-tinged red fruits and blood orange. The 2019 lingers long yet remarkably fresh, leaving a salty flourish and licorice hints framed by a tug of gentle tannin. This is so beautiful today that it's hard to imagine waiting, yet don't be surprised if this improves with a year or two in bottle."- Vinous Winemaker: Carlo Venturini and Alessandra Zantedeschi. Price per bottle / per case:  $33.99/$367.10 Suggested Food Pairing:  Grilled Meats,  Roasted Chicken  Portobello mushroom burger, Semi-matured cheeses Vegetable Lasagna  Pasta e Fasoi (Venetian vegetable soup)  Risotto al Pesce Persico (Risotto with Perch Fish) Ingredients: 1 liter (about 1 quart) vegetable stock 130 g (4.5 oz) unsalted butter 1 small shallot, finely chopped 300 g (11 oz) Carnaroli or Arborio rice 240 ml (1 cup) dry white wine, at room temperature 16 perch fillets (3-4 per person) All-purpose flour for coating Clarified butter for frying 8 fresh sage leaves Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Instructions: 1. In a saucepan over medium heat, warm up the stock2. In a large saucepan heat 50 g (about 2 oz) of butter. Add the shallot and sauté for 2-3 minutes over medium heat. Add the rice and stir thoroughly for about 3 minutes, in order to “coat” the rice well with the butter and shallot. Add the wine and stir until completely absorbed over medium-high heat3. Add a soup ladle or two of the stock until the rice is just covered, and stir continuously with a wooden spoon. When stock is almost completely absorbed (the rice should not be dry on top) repeat this process4. Remove the risotto from the heat (after about 16-18 minutes), when the rice is nearly tender to the bite and creamy. Add 30 g (1 oz) of butter and keep stirring the risotto to blend it in. You can also add some salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Let it stand for 1 or 2 minutes5. While risotto is cooking, wash the perch fillets, pat dry with paper towel and then flour it. Melt some clarified butter over medium-high heat, then decrease the heat to medium, cook the fish turning over once until golden brown on each side. Add salt to taste. Remove from the pan and keep warm6. Place 50 g of butter and sage in a small saucepan and cook over medium heat for 2 minutes being careful not to brown the butter. Turn the risotto out onto a heated platter. Place on top perch fillets and season with butter and sage. Serve immediately.  

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