Club Corner
May Wine of the Month Club: Languedoc-Rousillon
With around 700,000 acres under vine, the Languedoc-Roussillon region in France is perhaps the largest wine-growing area in the world. Beginning where the Rhone ends in the southeast, the Languedoc (as it’s frequently abbreviated; see below for more on why) follows the Pyrenees mountains down to the Mediterranean, and then traces the coastline from Provence to the Spanish border. It is responsible for one out of every three wine bottles sold in France, and one in ten worldwide. Languedoc-Rousillon is also the oldest wine-producing area in France, as Greek viticulture here started about 3,000 years ago (followed by the Romans, then the monks, and finally everybody else.) That dual administrative identity is a much more recent development though, a marriage of political and economic convenience established in 1982, whose hyphen hides a significant geographical and cultural mis-match. The Languedoc portion is much larger, comprising some 90% of the combined territory and quintessentially French in character (hence the partner-effacing synecdoche.) Rousillon on the other hand, occupies a comparative spec of territory, tucked into France’s southwestern border - and the proximity to Spain means everything, from the street signs, to the accents, to the cuisine, they all bear clear Iberian, more specifically Catalonian, influences. The divide makes for a fascinating, variegated and self-evidently fecund wine scene. Languedoc's vineyards are mostly located on coastal plains, while Roussillon’s are either perched on cliff tops or nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Though Rhone varietals (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan for the reds; Marsanne, Roussane and Grenache Blanc for the white) predominate everywhere, you can find all kinds of grapes in the mix somewhere, planted across an array of soil types and circumstances. There are 38 different appellations in all, from Corbieres - the largest, known for Carignan dominant red blends - to Blanquette de Limoux, which makes affordable sparkling wines. For our two selections this month, we have a white wine from Roussilon, a blend of the Spanish grape Macabeo and Grenache Gris that is, characteristically for the area, farmed organically and biodynamically (Rousillon ranks 1st among French regions in percentage of organic and biodynamic vineyards by hectare) at the base of the Pyrenees; and a red from the Minervois appellation, arguably responsible for Languedoc’s best dark hued bottlings, mostly made from Syrah and Grenache. Cheers! The PlumpJack Wine Team Domaine du Somail Le Vin de Plume Region / Country of Origin: Minervois About the winery: Domaine du Somail is a natural wine estate launched in 2013 by three passionate individuals in the Minervois region. Founded on a love for nature and a commitment to authenticity, Julie, François, and Germain use biodynamic and natural practices to craft wines that reflect the unique connection between earth, vine, and cosmos. Their philosophy is reflected in their use of natural yeasts, biodynamic practices, and herbal treatments for the vines, ensuring a healthy environment for both the land and those who enjoy their wines.The Mediterranean climate is also a big influence in Minervois, with over 315 days of sunshine a year. The topography protects the vineyards from excessive rain, with mountains and hills creating a rain shadow effect. About the winemaking: 80% Mourvedre 20% Syrah. Grapes are handpicked and destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeast in temperature-controlled concrete tanks for around 15 days. Maceration involves pump-overs and unballasting, with no added sulfur dioxide. The wine is pressed using a tilted plate press and aged for 8-12 months in various tanks, resting on fine lees. Tasting Notes: Deep ruby color in the glass. The nose is complex and elegant with notes of iris, violet, almond, cherry and garrigue. On the palate, this wine is fresh, generous and fleshy with notes of flowers, red fruits, and spices. Winemaker: Francois Febress Price: $22.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: This wine is ideal as an aperitif, or paired with grilled rib steak, lentil soup, pork sausage, shiitake mushrooms or with hard cheeses like cheddar, edam or Provolone. Paul Meunier & Lucile Morin Centernach 2020 Les Choremes Blanc Region / Country of Origin: Centernach, Rousillon, FR About the Winery: Paul Meunier is a 5th generation winemaker who grew up in Burgundy at the domain owned by his parents, J.J. Confuron. Following his studies, he traveled in South America for a year, and upon his return got a degree in viticulture and winemaking. For several years he split his time between Lebanon as a contract winemaker and a winemaker’s assistant at a winery in Australia while also teaching at a winemaking school in Chile and sommelier work in Japan. He and partner Lucile Morin eventually moved to the Roussillon village of Centernach, in the upper Agly Valley in 2013-14 where he farms 25 acres. They’ve since experimented with agroforestry, planting trees and hedges to give diversity and protection to their soils and vines. From the start, they’ve worked organically and their oldest parcels are plowed by horse. About the winemaking: 80% Macabeu and 20% Grenache Gris from a single organically farmed parcel planted in 1950 on a high north-facing slope in Saint-Paul-de-Fenouillet along the base of the Pyrenées. The grapes are picked early and harvested and fermented together with ambient yeast in a combination of amphora and stainless steel tank before aging on the lees for 12-18 months in steel tanks. Tasting notes: A pale gold in the glass with a nose reminiscent of citrus tea and wild herbs. Round and plush on the palate with acidity that is present but not overbearing, this wine is a symphony of dried melon, salted lemon, dried herbs, preserved citrus, and an almost sake like note that shows itself as it opens. The finish is long and dry, ending on a savory, citrus peel note. Winemaker: Paul Meunier and Lucile Morin Price: $32.99+tax Suggested Food Pairing: Dim sum, tamal en cazuela
Learn more
February Wine of the Month: Corsica
Corsica Corsica, a Mediterranean island located southeast of mainland France and west of Italy, has a rich and complex history shaped by various civilizations, conquests, and cultural influences. Corsican wine has a long history as well, deeply tied to the island’s warm, dry climate; diverse, mountainous terroir; and wide cultural influences going back to the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, the Genoese, and most recently French. Today, Corsica produces high-quality wines that blend indigenous grape varieties with modern winemaking techniques. The Phoenicians and Greeks introduced viticulture to Corsica around the 6th century BCE. The Romans expanded cultivation, recognizing the island’s potential for winemaking. In the medieval period, under Pisan and Genoese rule, vineyards thrived, and many traditional grape varieties were established. After France took control in 1768, Corsican wine was overshadowed by mainland French wines. However, in the 20th century, there was a resurgence in quality and recognition. Corsican wines are distinguished by their use of indigenous grape varieties. Sciaccarellu is an early budding varietal, light in color with naturally high alcohol. Known as Mammolo in Italy, it is often blended with Sangiovese to add a floral lift, but on its own it creates soft, spicy, easy to enjoy red and rosé wine. Nielluccio is the third most common grape to Corsica. Originally a Sangiovese clone brought by the Genoese in the 1200s. Nielluccio is the more important of the two, bringing power and noticeable tannins, color and acidity. Savory flavors of tomato leaf are present, along with a hint of dark cherries and dried herbs. Sciaccarello adds finesse and fleshiness as well as its characteristic violet aromas and red fruit flavors, seasoned with black pepper. These grapes, when blended, usually have a distinct herbal aroma, likened to the aromatic maquis scrub of the island, and similar to the French garrigue. Domaine Vico was founded in 1901 in the village of Ponte-Leccia, in the northern sector of the Mediterranean island of Corsica. Surrounded by imposing mountains, it is an historic estate with vineyards in the center of the island (Centru di Corsica), in the foothills of those dramatic peaks. This is a remarkably rugged and beautiful place, with arguably the most complex terroirs found anywhere in the wine world (schist, basalt, galets roulés, gravel, clay). It is here that owner and winemaker Manu Venturi has taken his mix of native Corse varieties, grown at an altitude of 300+ meters, and turned this unique domaine into one of France’s shining beacons for biodynamic farming and transparently pure Corsican wines. The history of the Venturi family’s connection to Domaine Vico began when Manu Venturi’s father Jean-Marc graduated from oenology school and, in his early thirties, took over the management of a cooperative on the east coast of Corsica. During the 1980’s, the Vico family had fallen into financial difficulties, eventually selling their magnificent estate to Jean-Marc in 1987. He was of few means at the time and had to borrow and work elsewhere to slowly rebuild the estate, which had an exceptional terroir, but no practical tools needed to run a successful winery. As a child, Manu was alongside his father during this journey, watching him work at the co-op during the week and working tirelessly at Vico on the weekends. As an adult Manu studied law, business, and sustainable tourism before finally coming back to take over the family estate. After 20 years investing every penny he had, Manu’s father had built an amazing domaine that could finally be passed down to Manu. Under Manu’s leadership, the domaine has cemented itself as one of the top estates on the island. Manu sees himself as a guardian of this land and heritage, stating “My philosophy is the same everywhere; High environmental value, organic agriculture, biodynamic agriculture, permaculture, breeding, bee-keeping … I made these choices for the preservation of my island, my land, the men and women who live there and, more globally, the planet. I am not a utopian, nor an esoteric dogmatic, I am simply a farmer in love with nature. Every day I work on this alchemy; I try to observe it, understand it and accompany it simply to pay homage to it. This makes me and my wines better. If not better, then at least consistent with what we are and what our land expresses.” Domaine Vico “Forca di Pero” Corse Rouge Region / Country of Origin: Centru di Corsica, Corsica About the name: Forca di Pero is Corsican for “the fork of the pear tree”, referencing the various plots of the domaine that go into the wine About the winemaking: Certified biodynamic, 60% Niellucciu, 40% Sciaccarellu, Grown on schist and basalt terroir, Southeast facing sites with 30+ year old vines. 10% whole cluster, Indigenous yeast, Fermented and aged in concrete for 18 months, Unfined and unfiltered. Tasting Notes: A gorgeous Corsican red, showing bright and energetic flavors of pomegranate, raspberry, brambly wild strawberry, and oolong tea. There is a juiciness that is captivating and invites every additional sip. Winemaker: Manu Vinturi Price: $24.99 btl/$280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Eggplant stuffed with ground lamb, Cannelloni with ricotta, kale and tomato, Pork belly with white bean puree. Domaine Vico “Forca di Pero” Corse Blanc Region / Country of Origin: Centru di Corsica, Corsica About the winemaking: Certified biodynamic, 100% Vermentinu 30+ year old vines are grown on blue schist terroir in south and southeast facing sites. Indigenous yeast, Fermented and aged in concrete eggs for 6 months Tasting Notes: This wonderful white shows aromas of grapefruit, candied lime, and sea spray. Full of tension with a salty minerality, the palate shows additional notes of white peach, lychee, and crunchy green apple core followed by delightfully zesty and lengthy finish. Winemaker: Manu Vinturi Price: $24.99 btl/ $280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Charcuterie platters, Polpo alla Luciana, Wild boar marinated in wine, brandy, juniper berries, and garlic, then braised with vegetables and tomato concentrate.
Learn more