Club Corner
Red Rogues Q3 2026
Club Med The Mediterranean doesn’t really require an introduction. (A spell check, definitely - but no intro.) We’re all probably at least a little familiar with the sea at the center of so much human history, culture, cuisine, leisure, and conflict already. Lots of important stuff has been happening there all the time since the dawn of time; we don’t have the time to get into most of it now. Even given our red wine-specific remit, the Med, in all its multi-continental viticultural fecundity, is way too teeming to cover in only three bottles. So this quarter we are sticking to just the interstices, the brown and green smudges perforating all that ceaseless blueness on maps, photos and IRL. The Islands. There are a bunch, as you’d expect. More than 10,000 in total, amongst which are two sovereign states (Malta and Cyprus), many nations, and plenty of wine. The most conspicuous in almost all regards - the largest by size, population, and wine production - is Sicily. Too vast and variegated to share the spotlight, our visit there will have to wait for another time. That leaves only the approximately 2,127 islands larger than .01km to choose from. Most of them don’t produce any wine of course, but are nonetheless fascinating to discover.* We are focusing here on three you’ve probably heard of however: Sardinia, Corsica and Mallorca. The 2nd, 4th and 7th, largest islands by area in the sea, respectively, they all officially belong to different mainland European countries (Italy, France, Spain), but remain fiercely protective of their own cultures and traditions. And this makes for very interesting wine scenes. Each possesses awesome indigenous varietals, unique local terroir, and hundreds if not thousands of years of viticultural know-how to draw from, alongside the influence of all the visitors/invaders that have made landfall over the centuries. No wine region - even the actual islands - is a metaphorical island, and that tension between isolation and accessibility is one of the things that make these wines in particular so singular and rewarding. First up is Sardinia, runner-up to Sicily in terms of both size and population, but responsible for a whopping 80% of Italy’s cork production. Located 150 miles off the west coast of the Apennine Peninsula, flaunting white sand beaches and alpine forests, and stretching across mountains, hills and plains, Sardinia is 9,300 square miles of such manifold ecological and topographical plenty that it's been called an island that’s almost a continent. Consequently, numerous foreign invaders have tried to conquer it over the years. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Saracens, Spanish, French and Italians all made attempts, and the landscape is dotted with evidence of the inhabitants' fierce resistance. There are some 7,000 ancient Nughari, or Bronze Age dressed stone circular defense towers built by the Nugari civilization (and for which no parallel exists anywhere else in the world) all over the island. Even Italy, the last and most successful of these would-be hegemons, hasn’t found full acceptance: you can still find the slogan “Sardigna no est Italia”, which translates to “Sardinia is not Italy”, graffitied on many village and town walls. While Sardinian wines were much prized by the ancient Greeks and other bygone Mediterranean civilizations, they have not been held in high regard for most of modern history. This has changed significantly in the last few decades though, as dedicated local vintners focused on celebrating the local terroir and varietals with sustainable farming practices and low yields, resulting in some very high quality bottlings. Today, Sardinia has more DOC and IGT titles than Calabria and Basilicata combined, inclusive of one DOCG wine, 19 DOC zones and 15 IGT zones, despite having the lowest wine production per acre of any Italian wine region. There are some 120 indigenous varietals grown in Sardinia, but the vast majority of planting and production is given over to just two: the red Cannonau (which is genetically identical to Grenache) and the white Vermentino (also grown in Tuscany, France, where it is called Rolle, and increasingly, California.) Next comes Corsica, the fourth largest by area (sixth by population) and the most mountainous island in the Mediterranean. It was once ruled from Genoa before the French took over, just in time for native son Napoleon Bonaparte to be born a French subject. But Corsica has always been a world of its own, with a viticultural tradition dating back thousands of years, featuring idiosyncratic microclimates and mostly indigenous varietals. For red wine, these are primarily: Sciaccarellu, an early budding varietal, light in color with naturally high alcohol that creates soft, spicy, easy to enjoy red bottlings; and Nielluccio, which was originally a Sangiovese clone brought by the Genoese in the 1200s. Nielluccio is the more important of the two, bringing power and noticeable tannins, color and acidity. Savory flavors of tomato leaf are present, along with a hint of dark cherries and dried herbs. Sciaccarello adds finesse and fleshiness as well as its characteristic violet aromas and red fruit flavors, seasoned with black pepper. These grapes, when blended like in our selection here, usually have a distinct herbal aroma, likened to the aromatic maquis scrub of the island, and similar to the French garrigue. Finally there is Mallorca, the largest of Spain’s Balearic islands, and almost synonymous in the popular imagination with beach partying revelers from the continent. While all the larger islands in the Mediterranean struggle to achieve a balance between the tourism that buoys the local economy and the local traditions it threatens, the problem is perhaps most visible here, where the permanent population is nine hundred seventy thousand, against some fourteen million visitors each year. Despite a long and proud winemaking tradition, lately indigenous grape varieties have been uprooted and replaced with international plantings at investor-owned wineries. Vineyard land costs have soared, and luxury homes now stand in the place of old vineyards. The traditional polyculture that once defined the landscape has been paved over to make room for tennis courts. Fortunately Tomeu Llabrés, our Mallorcan winemaker featured this quarter, embodies a very obstinate resistance to this trend, producing lovely handmade wine from autochthonous Mallorcan grapes like Mantonegro, featured here. Cheers, The PlumpJack Wine Team *Since you asked, my personal favorite/vacation goal is Asinara, whose name is Italian for “Donkey-Inhabited” (though it apparently domiciles a lone human resident per a recent census.) For years, the 52km island was an Italian Alcatraz of sorts, interning POWs during the First World War, and then some of Italy’s most notorious 20th Century criminals. Since 2002 it has been a national park, open to all visitors who wish to check out its gorgeous beaches, scenic hikes and albino donkey population. Comte Abbatucci ‘Faustine’ IGP Ile de Beaute 2025 Region/Country of Origin: Corsica, France About The Winemaker: Considered one of the oldest vineyards in Corsica, Domaine Comte Abbatucci today extends over 21 hectares of granite arenas, in the heart of the Taravo valley in Southern Corsica and at an altitude of about 150 metres. Cultivating the desire to offer the quintessence of each grape variety, of which it possesses an ampelographic collection, initiated by Antoine Abbtucci – Jean-Charles' father – this Corsican winery is in constant evolution, based on a firm commitment to research and innovation. About the Winemaking: Gravity fed, destemmed and not crushed. Skin maceration in concrete vats and vatting for about 1 month with daily pumping over. Spontaneous fermentation. Dewatering and pressing of the marc, separation of the juices before ageing in a stainless-steel vat for 6 months.Blending, racking and clarifying filtration before bottling. Tasting Notes: Cherry colour and ruby highlights. Nose with notes of red fruits and aromas of wild berries (myrtle), pepper and spices.A complex aromatic palette on the palate with fine, silky tannins for an intense fruity finish Winemaker: Jean-Charles & Faustin Abbatucci Price per bottle: $48.99 Varietal: 70% Sciaccarellu 30% Nielluccio Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled meats, cold cuts and Corsican cheese, spicy foods like seafood stew, enchiladas, or curry. Goes very nicely with tomato based dishes too. Ca’n Verdura Negre 2025 Region/Country of Origin: Binnisalem, Mallorca, Spain About the winemaker: Practicing low-impact viticulture and minimal-intervention winemaking, viticultor Tomeu Llabrés makes wines from a mosaic of old, tiny plots of indigenous Mallorcan varieties. He maintains cover crops during the cool season and actively encourages biodiversity across his parcels through polyculture. The soils of Binissalem are cal vermell: red, iron-rich clay-limestone with small to medium-sized galets. These soils are integral to the character of the wines. Only native yeasts are used for fermentation, and the vineyards are farmed without chemical treatments. The Levante winds, blowing across Mallorca from northeast to southwest, provide crucial cooling and natural aeration for disease prevention.His wines are handmade, without additions, subtractions, or corrections, and an uncompromising commitment to terroir transparency. About the Winemaking: After manual harvest in small boxes, the wine is fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks at 24°C, with a maceration of 7-12 days. Roughly a third of it is then aged for five months in 500L French oak barrels, while the other two-thirds is aged in stainless steel for the same period.43% Mantonegro / 33% Syrah / 10% Callet / 8% Merlot / 2% Monastrell / 4% Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyards planted beginning in 1958. Tasting Notes: This fragrant, Mediterranean red is medium-bodied, with notes of wild red berries, citrus, fresh herbs, and exotic spices. It is fresh, energetic with excellent texture. Winemaker: Tomeu Llabrés Price per bottle: $32.99/ Varietal: 43% Mantonegro / 33% Syrah / 10% Callet / 8% Merlot / 2% Monastrell / 4% Cabernet Sauvignon Suggested Food Pairing: Roast lamb, aged cheeses, Arroz Brut (hearty Mallorcan rice dish with meat, vegetables, and a rich broth with saffron, cinnamon, and pepper.) Garagisti di Sorgono ‘Manca’ 2019 Region/Country of Origin: Mandrolisai, Sardinia, Italy About the Winemaker: Pietro Uras, Simone Murru and Renzo Manca are true “Garagistes”, a french term for a small winegrower making exceptional wines in small batches. The three friends have teamed up to keep the local winemaking traditions alive, and are farming their own vineyards by hand with organic practices. Their vineyards are nothing short of remarkable: they are cultivated on pink/white granite, and have been passed down by their ancestors over the years. The yields are extremely low. A good amount of the vines are over 100 years in age, the majority are 50 or 70 years old. The local varieties are Cannonau, Monica and Muristeddu (aka Bovale Sardo), and while their wines are full bodied and rich, their non interventionist winemaking avoids over extraction and results in brighter, high acid wines that are a pure pleasure to enjoy. About the Winemaking: 100% Cannonau from three single parcels owned and farmed organically by Renzo Manca. The white and pink granite soils provide for a vibrant freshness even if Cannonau’s naturally bold body clocks in at nearly 16% abv. Fermented in stainless steel vats with native yeasts, aged 12 months used French Oak Tasting Notes: Intensely complex and solidly structured with great balance. This has bright clean flavors of red fruit and a spice and herbal driven finish. Winemaker: Renzo Manca Price per bottle: $40.99 Varietal: Cannonau Suggested Food Pairing: red meats, Smoked pancetta, sheep cheese Malloreddus with lamb ragu (Sardinian Gnocci) Spaghetti with Sea Urchin
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February Wine of the Month: Corsica
Corsica Corsica, a Mediterranean island located southeast of mainland France and west of Italy, has a rich and complex history shaped by various civilizations, conquests, and cultural influences. Corsican wine has a long history as well, deeply tied to the island’s warm, dry climate; diverse, mountainous terroir; and wide cultural influences going back to the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, the Genoese, and most recently French. Today, Corsica produces high-quality wines that blend indigenous grape varieties with modern winemaking techniques. The Phoenicians and Greeks introduced viticulture to Corsica around the 6th century BCE. The Romans expanded cultivation, recognizing the island’s potential for winemaking. In the medieval period, under Pisan and Genoese rule, vineyards thrived, and many traditional grape varieties were established. After France took control in 1768, Corsican wine was overshadowed by mainland French wines. However, in the 20th century, there was a resurgence in quality and recognition. Corsican wines are distinguished by their use of indigenous grape varieties. Sciaccarellu is an early budding varietal, light in color with naturally high alcohol. Known as Mammolo in Italy, it is often blended with Sangiovese to add a floral lift, but on its own it creates soft, spicy, easy to enjoy red and rosé wine. Nielluccio is the third most common grape to Corsica. Originally a Sangiovese clone brought by the Genoese in the 1200s. Nielluccio is the more important of the two, bringing power and noticeable tannins, color and acidity. Savory flavors of tomato leaf are present, along with a hint of dark cherries and dried herbs. Sciaccarello adds finesse and fleshiness as well as its characteristic violet aromas and red fruit flavors, seasoned with black pepper. These grapes, when blended, usually have a distinct herbal aroma, likened to the aromatic maquis scrub of the island, and similar to the French garrigue. Domaine Vico was founded in 1901 in the village of Ponte-Leccia, in the northern sector of the Mediterranean island of Corsica. Surrounded by imposing mountains, it is an historic estate with vineyards in the center of the island (Centru di Corsica), in the foothills of those dramatic peaks. This is a remarkably rugged and beautiful place, with arguably the most complex terroirs found anywhere in the wine world (schist, basalt, galets roulés, gravel, clay). It is here that owner and winemaker Manu Venturi has taken his mix of native Corse varieties, grown at an altitude of 300+ meters, and turned this unique domaine into one of France’s shining beacons for biodynamic farming and transparently pure Corsican wines. The history of the Venturi family’s connection to Domaine Vico began when Manu Venturi’s father Jean-Marc graduated from oenology school and, in his early thirties, took over the management of a cooperative on the east coast of Corsica. During the 1980’s, the Vico family had fallen into financial difficulties, eventually selling their magnificent estate to Jean-Marc in 1987. He was of few means at the time and had to borrow and work elsewhere to slowly rebuild the estate, which had an exceptional terroir, but no practical tools needed to run a successful winery. As a child, Manu was alongside his father during this journey, watching him work at the co-op during the week and working tirelessly at Vico on the weekends. As an adult Manu studied law, business, and sustainable tourism before finally coming back to take over the family estate. After 20 years investing every penny he had, Manu’s father had built an amazing domaine that could finally be passed down to Manu. Under Manu’s leadership, the domaine has cemented itself as one of the top estates on the island. Manu sees himself as a guardian of this land and heritage, stating “My philosophy is the same everywhere; High environmental value, organic agriculture, biodynamic agriculture, permaculture, breeding, bee-keeping … I made these choices for the preservation of my island, my land, the men and women who live there and, more globally, the planet. I am not a utopian, nor an esoteric dogmatic, I am simply a farmer in love with nature. Every day I work on this alchemy; I try to observe it, understand it and accompany it simply to pay homage to it. This makes me and my wines better. If not better, then at least consistent with what we are and what our land expresses.” Domaine Vico “Forca di Pero” Corse Rouge Region / Country of Origin: Centru di Corsica, Corsica About the name: Forca di Pero is Corsican for “the fork of the pear tree”, referencing the various plots of the domaine that go into the wine About the winemaking: Certified biodynamic, 60% Niellucciu, 40% Sciaccarellu, Grown on schist and basalt terroir, Southeast facing sites with 30+ year old vines. 10% whole cluster, Indigenous yeast, Fermented and aged in concrete for 18 months, Unfined and unfiltered. Tasting Notes: A gorgeous Corsican red, showing bright and energetic flavors of pomegranate, raspberry, brambly wild strawberry, and oolong tea. There is a juiciness that is captivating and invites every additional sip. Winemaker: Manu Vinturi Price: $24.99 btl/$280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Eggplant stuffed with ground lamb, Cannelloni with ricotta, kale and tomato, Pork belly with white bean puree. Domaine Vico “Forca di Pero” Corse Blanc Region / Country of Origin: Centru di Corsica, Corsica About the winemaking: Certified biodynamic, 100% Vermentinu 30+ year old vines are grown on blue schist terroir in south and southeast facing sites. Indigenous yeast, Fermented and aged in concrete eggs for 6 months Tasting Notes: This wonderful white shows aromas of grapefruit, candied lime, and sea spray. Full of tension with a salty minerality, the palate shows additional notes of white peach, lychee, and crunchy green apple core followed by delightfully zesty and lengthy finish. Winemaker: Manu Vinturi Price: $24.99 btl/ $280.69 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Charcuterie platters, Polpo alla Luciana, Wild boar marinated in wine, brandy, juniper berries, and garlic, then braised with vegetables and tomato concentrate.
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October 2024 Rosé of the Month Club
Island Rosés The Mediterranean is known for its stunning landscapes, rich history, and vibrant culture. I’m sure we’d all love to be on an island there, relaxing, enjoying delicious food and wine, and soaking up the sun. Whether it’s exploring charming villages, hiking coastal trails, or swimming in crystal-clear waters, there’s so much to experience. But since we can’t be there, we can live vicariously through these two island rosés. Sicilian wine is as diverse and vibrant as the island itself. With a rich history dating back to ancient times, Sicily is the largest wine-producing region in Italy (by landmass, not volume), as well as the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, and boasts a variety of indigenous grape varieties. Nerello Mascalese is one of Sicily's most celebrated red grape varieties, primarily grown on the slopes of Mount Etna. Wines made from Nerello Mascalese are typically elegant and complex, often showcasing red fruit flavors like cherry and raspberry, along with earthy, floral, and spicy notes. They can also exhibit mineral characteristics, reflecting the volcanic soils of the Etna region. Corsica, the 4th largest island in the Mediterranean, is a fascinating island with a rich blend of French and Italian influences, evident not just in its wines but also in its culture and cuisine. Corsica's stunning landscapes, from rugged mountains to beautiful coastlines, further enhance its appeal, making it a great destination for nature lovers and wine enthusiasts alike. Corsica is home to several native grape varieties that reflect the island's unique terroir and heritage. Sangiovese and Vermentino grapes thrive in its diverse terroirs, producing unique wines that reflect the island's character. A lesser-known red grape, Sciaccarellu is prized for its finesse and aromatic qualities. There are similarities in the flavor profile and structure between Sciaccarellu and Sangiovese, leading some to suggest a link, although the exact relationship is not fully established. Wines made from Sciaccarellu are often lighter, with red fruit flavors and a hint of spice, making them versatile for food pairings. Think Pink, Carrie Upson Domaine de Marquiliani Rosé Gris de Marquiliani Vin de Corse 2023 Region/Country of Origin: Corsica, France About the Winery: Domaines Marquiliani, which extends over 29 hectares of cultivated land and 120 hectares of wild nature. The Amalric family has farmed Domaine de Marquiliani since the 1950s, nearly twenty years after the two hundred-year-old domaine was destroyed in a fire and abandoned. The Amalrics bought the property and replanted the vineyards. Daniel Amalric earned great recognition for his wines, as he was the first to plant Niellucciu and Syrah on this side of the island. In 1995, he was joined by his daughter, Anne, an agricultural chemist who had returned from mainland France to take her place at the family farm. Initially, Anne put her energy into planting olive and almond trees. Anne then turned her focus back to the vineyards, replanting much of the land to Sciaccarellu to focus the production on rosé. She still works side-by-side with her father and is quick to credit him as her guiding light in the vineyards and the cellar. About the Winemaking: 95% Sciaccarellu, 5% Syrah. Juice obtained by direct press which is decanted and undergoes 72 hour cold-soak. Clear juice is pulled from the cuveé and fermented in stainless steel and malolactic fermentation is blocked. Tasting Notes: Delicate on the nose and palate, showing hints of minerality, red berry, and fresh wildflowers. “Drinking her rosé is like drinking a cloud. There’s an absolute weightlessness to it. Nothing is left on the palate but perfume.” -Kermit Lynch Winemaker: Anne Amalric Price per bottle / Price per case: $23.99 btl/ $259.09 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Sheep and goat cheese, Corsican Charcuterie, Grilled trout, Aziminu (Corscian fish stew), Langostino with Garlic Herb Butter. Feudo Solaria Nerello Mascalese Rosato 2023 Region/Country of Origin: Terre Siciliane –Indicazione Geografica Protetta (IGP) About the Winery: This family winery was founded in 1887, located in North-Eastern Sicily. Today, five generations later, the company is committed to transferring its tradition, skill and passion into modern-day winemaking. They cultivate the best native Sicilian grapes by strictly following traditional and biological methods.. The light and warmth of the Sicilian sun, together with the light breeze and the beneficial temperature ranges, allow grapes to become gradually ripe up to the moment of being harvested. About the Winemaking: 100% Nerello Mascalese. The date of the harvest is carefully chosen by observing the plants' vegetative development, tasting grapes and undertaking continuous analytical and scientific checks until they reach optimum maturity. Grapes are then harvested manually with delicate precision. The wine is fermented in stainless tanks and rests in the bottle for at least two months before being released. Tasting Notes: Very bright light rosé, it offers a flowery and fruity bouquet. Pleasant notes of pomegranates and currants, on a wild strawberry background. In the mouth it is lively, thanks to crispy acidity and pleasant sapidity. Winemaker: Alessio Grasso Price per bottle / Price per case: $16.99/ $183.49 Suggested Food Pairing: Match with seafood starters, raw fish (especially shellfish) and first courses based on vegetables. We also recommend it with fried fish, fresh cheeses and second courses of roasted fish. Try it with tomato pasta.
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