Club Corner
Italian Wine Club February 2026: Piemonte
French historian Jules Michelet used to begin his lectures on British history, with the seemingly unnecessary proclamation, “Messieurs, l’Angleterre est une ile.” “You guys, England is an island.” Obvious certainly, but it sure clarifies all that is to follow. There is, after all, an important difference between “simply knowing that Britain is an island” and “whether we interpret its history in the light of that fact, which thus takes on a significance of its own.”* Take this tack with Italy/Italian wine, and we might lead with: Italy is mostly uphill. The fact that it occupies a peninsula (Appenine) named for the mountain range that traverses it, is probably the biggest clue, but if (like me) you haven’t spent much time there you might be surprised to learn that fully 75% of Italy is hills and mountains. It is a geographical characteristic that has had a dramatic effect on pretty much every aspect of its development, cuisine and wine included. For centuries, getting from one town to another was a huge hassle, and as a result, products grown successfully in one valley might never make it to the valley next door. So even though both wines we are featuring this month technically come from Piedmont, the northeastern region famed for its Barbaresco and Barolo, they each very much occupy their own altitude, offering singular vistas that warrant a separate summit. To the funicular! Indeed, Piedmont actually means “at the foot of the mountain” in Italian. It’s surrounded on three sides by the Alps, including the Monte Rosa, and the Monviso, where the Po River rises. The region borders France, Switzerland, and the Italian regions of Lombardy, Liguria, Emilia-Romagna and Val d’Aosta, and encompasses 8 provinces: Turin, Alessandria, Asti, Biella, Cuneo, Novara, Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, and Vercelli. Located in the southeastern part of Piedmont, in the Alessandria province bordering Lombardy, Colli Tortenesi is mostly hills and valleys as it rises from the Po River plains to heights of 1,700 meters in the Apennines. The climate is humid, influenced positively by the Ligurian sea and receives the lowest rainfall in the region, with a considerable temperature range throughout the day, which contributes to the intense aromatics of the wine. Located in the southeastern part Piedmont, adjacent to Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy, Colli Tortenesi was founded by the Ligurians, before becoming a Roman colony called Derthona in 148 BCE, the first such outpost under imperial rule west of the Po River Valley. The area has a transitional topography of hills and valleys as it rises from the plains of the Po River to heights of 1,700 meters in the Apennines, all of which contribute to the diversity of soil and climate. Much of the soil, formed during the Tortonian age, between 5 and 15 million years ago, is a mix of calcareous clay, with ancient marine deposits, limestone and a surface layer of sand. The climate is humid, influenced positively by the Ligurian sea and receives the lowest rainfall in the region, with a considerable temperature range throughout the day, which contributes to the intense aromatics of the wine. It has historically been known for the red grape Barbera, which is grown in many other places in Northern Italy (see below), but today its calling card is arguably Timorasso, a highly distinctive white grape and Colli Tortenesi’s only autochthonous varietal. On the verge of extinction as recently as 1987, a local winemaker Walter Massa began acting on his hunch that some of the family vineyards were better suited to growing white grapes. The (eventual) result has been a Timorasso renaissance as others have discovered that this thick and waxy skinned varietal produces age-worthy and distinguished white wine, boasting floral notes, bright acidity and orchard fruit flavors in its youth, and capable of developing petrol, almond and honeyed characteristics as it matures. Timorasso has been alternately likened to Chablis, Riesling and Chenin Blanc which is proof enough of its uniqueness. La Colombera’s version, which we are featuring this month, is excellent. The red hails from Alba, in the Cuneo province, in the South west corner of Piedmont. It is made from the aforementioned Barbera grape, which is believed to be native to Italy, though its origins are obscure enough that it is difficult to be certain. In any event, Barbera is today one of Italy’s most widely planted red varietals, prized for its ability to shine in all kinds of contexts, from a reliable single varietal table red (it is known as the “people’s wine” in Piedmont) to a sympathetic blending partner to a sparkling version known as Verbesco. This ubiquity is probably why we’ve never featured a single varietal Barbera in IWC before; it's an easy grape to take for granted. But having sampled the new vintage from Oddero, one of my favorite Piemont producers, recently, I was struck anew with all the qualities that make Barbera such a popular dinner guest. At its best, which this bottling is, Barbera is conversant with most social and/or culinary lingua franca - and comfortable enough in its own skin not to try too hard to prove it. You rarely encounter a less needy wine, in other words - and sometimes that demands recognition. Salud, Alan Hicks- Wine Buyer PlumpJack Wine & Spirits Noe Valley *(Appropriating this story from Leszek Kolakowski’s Main Currents of Marxism where he uses it to explain starting his tome with the similarly dome-cracking: “Karl Marx was a German philosopher.”) Le Colombera Timorasso 2024 Region: Collo Tortonesi, Piedmont Italy About the Winery: Based in the village of Vho on the outskirts of Tortona, or Derthona as the Romans called it, La Colombera is a third generation, 22 ha property planted most notably with the indigenous white wine grape Timorasso; all within a mile of the winery. In 1961 Renato Semino planted the first of La Colombera’s vineyards: Vigna Brusa. During the 1970s, Renato’s son, Piercarlo began working the vineyards and decided in the 1980s to begin making wine himself, rather than sell off the fruit, building a small winery in 1996. Then, in 1997, with the outbreak of flavescenza dorata that decimated their largely rented vineyards, they were encouraged to plant the varietal that would become their passion, Timorasso, for the first time. Over the next two years, the Semino family took a leap of faith, purchasing their vineyards and building a new commercial winery. In 2000, Piercarlo’s daughter Elisa returned from her viticultural studies in Milan to join the family business & to focus the family’s energy on the production of Timorasso. In 2013, Elisa’s brother Lorenzo joined the family business, and in 2014 they fermented the Timorasso wine, ‘Derthona,’ for the first time, using wild yeasts. Today, the Semino family continues to expand their viticulture, adding three new hectares to their holdings in 2017. About the Winemaking: '100% Timorasso, from several vineyards on our property, planted between 1997 and 2000. The vines are located between 270 and 300 meters (900 to 1,000 feet) above sea level. The soils include both light and dark limestone-rich clay. Harvest takes place typically in the middle of September. The grapes are macerated in the press for three hours before pressing; the wine is then fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks, and aged on the fine lees for at least 10 months before bottling. The wine is cold-stabilized and filtered. Residual sweetness is 1.2 g/L (dry), and the SO2 is 70 ppm at bottling. Sixteen thousand bottles are produced each year. Tasting Notes: On the nose the young wine shows notes of white peach, honey, acacia, hawthorn blossom, and chamomile, developing smoky and mineral notes with age. On the palate, there are savory notes that remind one of our clay soils. The fresh acidity of the wine allows it to improve in the bottle for many years.' Winemaker: Eliza & Lorenzo Semina Price per bottle / Price per case $33.99/$367.10 Suggested Food Pairing: Fonduta (Piedmontese cheese fondue) Risotto w/ white truffle Raw vegetables with bagna cauda (the local dip made from hazelnut oil, anchovies, peppers, garlic and cream.) aged cheeses like Montebore Seafood, Spicy foods Oddero Barbera D’Alba 2022 Region: Barbera D’Alba DOC, Piedmont. About the Winemaker: Oddero is one of the great, historic, traditional Barolo houses with a long history spanning over 200 years. There are mentions of the Oddero family in La Morra as far back as the 1700s, though the family was likely there even before that point. The winery was among the first producers to estate bottle their Barolo – in the late 1800s, a time when most wine was sold in bulk either by demijohn or barrel. There are even records of their wine being sold to the USA at that point as well. It was Giacomo Oddero (born 1926) and his brother Luigi (born 1928) who brought the winery into the modern era. They renovated their ancient farmhouse, elevated their wine quality, and extended their vineyard holdings. For years, the estate has quietly sold a good portion of its wines to a loyal clientele, much of it to restaurants in Italy. As such, they have remained somewhat under-the-radar amongst the tier of traditional Baroli. Giacomo’s daughter Mariacristina joined the winery in 1997 after studying Agronomic Science and Enology at the University of Torino. But after a few years, she and Luigi, both very strong-headed characters, had a challenging time working together and decided to separate. She kept the historic cellars in La Morra and much of the historic vineyards, and he formed his own winery in 2006, called Luigi Oddero e Figli. Today, Mariacristina’s son Pietro and niece Isabella are taking over and represent the seventh generation in the family to run the winery. They are both hugely committed to raising the reputation of the winery and have made significant investments in the vineyards and cellar to continue to help elevate the level of quality at this venerable estate. About the Winemaking: 100% Barbera. Certified organic. From vineyards planted between 2000 and 2005, on Tortonian soil (calcareous marl and sandstone.) Harvested in late September it goes through 10 days maceration and controlled low temperature fermentation in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts , followed by malolactic fermentation in November. 100% aged in 50-hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months. Blended in the spring, bottled in the summer. Tasting Notes: Intense ruby-red color with purple tinges, a bouquet of pure cherry, blackberry, black pepper and mineral flavors with an excellent dash of freshness. Elegant but intense, tannins are soft and fresh in the mouth, with a fine length. Winemaker: Pietro & Isabella Oddero Price per bottle / Price per case $29.99/$323.90 Suggested Food Pairing: Pretty much any tomato based dishes Pizza Grilled meats or vegetables Risotto Mildly spicy Asian dishes Panissa (Piedmontese Rice & Beans) This rich, robust dish makes the most of Piedmont’s famous rice and wine, with plenty of salami and beans strewn throughout. Cooked like a risotto but with a firmer, thicker texture, it’s a beautiful dish, which deserves to be more well-known outside the region. Ingredients: 1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 200g salami, finely chopped or whizzed into a paste (see Know-how) 800ml vegetable stock 400g tin or jar borlotti beans, including their liquid 300g carnaroli risotto rice 2 tbsp tomato purée 300ml robust red wine, ideally barbera d’asti 100g parmesan, finely grated 20g salted butter Parsley to serve Bread to serve (optional) Instructions: Heat the oil in a large hobsafe casserole or pan over a medium heat. Stir in the onion and a pinch of salt, then cook for about 8 minutes until softened. Stir in the salami and cook for about 4 minutes until starting to brown. Meanwhile, heat the stock in another pan and add the beans, including their liquid. Keep warm over a low heat. Stir the rice into the onions and cook for a few minutes, stirring regularly, until starting to turn translucent. Add the tomato purée and cook for 1 minute Pour in the wine and simmer for a few minutes. Add a few ladlefuls of the stock mixture to the rice at a time, ensuring the rice is always covered with liquid, and allow to bubble gently for 20-25 minutes, stirring constantly and topping up as needed, until all the liquid and beans are added and the rice is tender. Remove from the heat, cover with a lid and leave to stand for 5 minutes. Stir in most of the parmesan and the butter. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper. Serve with the remaining parmesan and some parsley leaves scattered over.
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August 2024 Italian Wine Club
Emilia! Romagna! Italy is so famous for both vino production (#1 in the world officially), and the veneration of very old stuff (less quantifiable, but only b/c there are too many museums and ruins to count), that it’s easy to forget that Italians didn’t actually invent wine. While a few places - China, Georgia, Armenia, - have stronger claims to the title, the truth is that no one knows when or where this most ancient tipple first appeared on the scene. In fact, the more we learn about it, the older and less certain its origins become. The interesting question is whether it is even possible for anyone to take credit for fermented grape juice. Can wine actually be invented, or only discovered? A little of both? And what are the implications of the answer? Obviously this is all well outside the usual Italian Wine Club purview, but since our wines this month are from Emilia Romagna, and we were there just this past March, I thought I’d forgo the usual regionally specific trivia in favor of a slightly wider focus. We don’t have nearly enough space here to cover, answer or even adequately address the above questions but it’s all important context to ponder or ignore as you pop these bottles and wonder how they came to be. So let’s start with the ”Drunk Monkey” hypothesis. While we know for sure that wine precedes agriculture and the domestication of grapes, it's also possible it predates humanity, full stop. Fermentation is a natural process: when grape skins are broken, yeast interacts with the sugars present, initiating fermentation and eventually producing alcohol. In the early 2000s, integrative biologist Robert Dudley posited that primates were enjoying the juice of fermented fruit for millions of years before humans showed up, attracted by the easier to ID and locate smell of fermenting fruit. This wouldn’t have been grape wine (no grapes in sub-Saharan Africa then) but an important harbinger nonetheless to the unrecorded moment when roving humans in Eurasia came upon some wild grapes, placed them in their woven baskets (no ceramics yet), crushing the ones on the bottom, and thus producing juice that fermented in the warm weather. This scenario, known as the Paleolithic hypothesis, is largely supported by anthropologists and, while we can’t say for certain that this is how it happened, if so, it definitely would’ve qualified as “natural wine,” wherever you stand on that whole debate. We are on more solid footing when it comes to dating the domestication and cultivation of grape vines, which required permanent human settlement and, for the making of wine year round, the invention of airtight ceramic vessels. The oldest yet unearthed example comes from the Neolithic period, around 6000 B.C., in what is today the Republic of Georgia. This is notable both because Georgia still has a robust winemaking culture today, and the methodology for which it is most famous is quite similar: most Georgian wine is made in qvevri (egg shaped clay containers) buried in the ground to ferment. This was, more or less, the way most ancient grape juice got fermented and stored, known as Anfora in Italy, Tinaja in Spain, Talha in Portugal, or Karas in Armenia. It wasn’t until thousands of years later that wood barrels came into fashion, followed by stainless steel and concrete. Recently, more winemakers have been going back to the use of these clay containers, including our white producer this month, Tre Monti. Some of you may remember them from the September 2022 club, when we featured their Sangiovese ‘Thea.’ We love all their wines, and I have been waiting for an opportunity to feature their most unique offering, the Vitalba. Made from 100% Albana, an indigenous grape, it spends 70 to 120 days macerating on its skins in qvevri/Anfora, which preserves the varietal characteristics, maintains a steady temperature for slow fermentation and adds weight and texture without the need for oak treatment. The result is a vivid, textured and well balanced orange wine to convince skeptics and impress enthusiasts alike. The red is also somewhat of a “natural” production, a blend of the well-known Barbera varietal (a staple of Piedmontese bottlings) and a grape called Bonarda that is, quite confusingly, entirely different from the Bonarda grown in Argentina, which is actually a varietal originally from France called Douce Noir (or Charbono if you’re in California). Northern Italy’s version (also known as Croatina) is frequently blended with Barbera in this area to add weight and aromatics. Salut! Alan Hicks - Wine Buyer Tre Monti Vitalba Albana in Anfora Romagna 2022 Region: Romagna Trebbiano DOC, Italy About the Winery: This 30-hectare estate located in the hills of Imola overlooking the Romagna plain specializes in the three local varietals: Albana, Trebbiano, and Sangiovese. The viticulture here is currently sustainable, and the estate is incorporating biodynamic principles more and more. Soil types are mainly sandy clay with small pebbles, which seem to be ideal for producing the crisp mineral white wines that this estate is known for. Cool nights and hot days are ideal for ripening both the Albana and Trebbiano vineyards. The winemaking operations are watched over painstakingly by the experienced and talented Vittorio Navacchia, and animated by a philosophy of minimal intervention. Every step is carried out with full respect not only for the integrity of the fruit, but above all for the unique character of each growing year, so that Vittorio can ensure that the final wines fully expresses all of the conditions that gave it “birth”. About the Winemaking: Vinification In Georgian amphora (kvevri) of 470 liters without addition of selected yeasts and without temperature control. Maceration: from 70 to 120 days (depending on the year) 2500 bottles avg. annual production. Tasting Notes: Truly an orange wine, this has a copper hue with honeyed notes of stone fruit, citrus and almonds. Silky in texture on the palate, it is nonetheless very persistent and shows great complexity. Winemaker: Mario Cirese Price per bottle / Price per case $37.99 / $410.30 Suggested Food Pairing: Pumpkin Ravioli (see recipe) Cured meats Halibut or other white fish Lentil Stew Green Curry La Stoppa Trebbiolo Rosso 2022 Region: Vino Rosso IGT About the Winery: La Stoppa is a 50 hectare property located in northwest Emilia-Romagna. Founded in the late 19th century by a wealthy lawyer named Gian Marco Ageno, the estate is currently run by Elena Pantaleoni and head vignaiolo Giulio Armani. Today, the wines produced from La Stoppa are typically Emilian. but this wasn't always the case; moving forward occasionally means taking a step back. In 1996, Elena and Giulio decided to replant the entirety of their estate in Barbera and Bonarda, both typical and suited grapes for the region. Interestingly, the prior owner had taken post phylloxera replanting as an opportunity to experiment with noble grapes from around the world which, amongst others, included Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Tokay and Pinot Gris. The estate has been worked organically since the early 1990's and certified in 2008. All the wines are fermented in stainless steel and concrete vats, then racked to a variety of small and large oak barrels for aging. The wines ferment off of their native yeasts and nothing is ever added or subtracted from the juice. Sulfur is never added during vinification or bottling, save a tiny amount for the entry-level wine "Trebbiolo". Because of the region's warm climate, Giulio prefers long skin contact to extract as much as possible. About Winemaking: 70% Barbera/30% Bonarda (aka Croatina, not Bonarda from Argentina). Trebbiolo is generally made from the younger, more productive vines at La Stoppa. They lie down the hill on which the winery sits, below the older hilltop vines that produce La Stoppa's long-aged La Macchiona; the flatter area has heavier soils and produces bigger berries. The farming is certified-organic and the harvest by hand. The bunches are destemmed, gently crushed and fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel and concrete tanks; maceration with the skins lasts around 20 days. The wine is aged in tanks and released generally the summer after the vintage. Tasting Notes: “Masses of crushed raspberries mix with wild herbs, dried roses and hints of underbrush as the 2019 Vino Rosso Trebbiolo opens up in the glass. It’s soft and round in feel yet bristling with energy as vibrant acids enliven its crisp red and blue fruits. Sweet spices, zests of citrus and hints of mint form toward the close as this tapers off nicely refreshing with medium length. You’d be hard-pressed to stop at just one glass.” - Vinous Winemaker: Guilo Amrani Price per bottle / Price per case $26.99 / $291.50 Suggested Food Pairing: Pumpkin Ravioli (see recipe) BBQ meats or tofu Pizza Pasta dishes with tomato sauce Eggplant Parmesan Tortelli di Zucca (Pumpkin Ravioli) Ingredients For the filling: 1. 615 g pumpkin puree approx from ½ a medium pie pumpkin 2 . 55 g parmesan (2 oz = approx ⅔ cup) - highly recommend real parmigiano reggiano 3. ⅛ teaspoon nutmeg 4. 1 pinch salt For the pasta dough: 1. 3 eggs 2. ½ teaspoon salt 3. 280 g flour 4. 1 tablespoon olive oil To serve: 1. 58 g butter (more/less to taste) 2. 8 sage leaves Instructions To prepare the pumpkin You can use canned pumpkin or half of an approx 4-5 lb (1.8-2.2.kg) pumpkin, (cut in half and seeds and soft stringiness removed from the inside). Preheat the oven to 400F/200C. Place the cleaned pumpkin half cut side down on a baking sheet/tray and roast for approx 30 minutes until the skin is darkening and it is soft to touch. Leave to cool before scooping out the flesh and mashing or blending to a smooth puree. For the pasta dough To make the pasta, put the eggs and salt in a food processor and pulse until broken up and mixed. Add approximately half the flour and the olive oil then pulse a few times to combine. Add the rest of the flour and pulse a few more times to mix and until the dough comes together, away from the sides into a ball, or at least into large crumbs. Remove the dough to a floured surface and knead with floured hands for a couple minutes. It should be slightly soft but not sticky. Note it will be firmer than a typical pasta dough. Wrap in plastic/cling film and allow to rest at room temperature for around 30 minutes. At this stage, you can keep the dough in the fridge for a day or two until ready to use. For the filling Mix together the pumpkin puree, grated parmesan and nutmeg until well blended. Set aside to use as you roll and fill the dough. To Form Ravioli & Serve When ready, divide the dough into 6 pieces and cover the pieces you aren't working with with a damp cloth or the cling film to save them drying out. Prepare some trays by dusting them with flour. As you work with each piece, flatten it out slightly, dust with flour then put it through your pasta roller on the widest settings a few times (about 2-3 should be fine) until smooth. Dust with flour in between if at all sticky. Then move up the settings, rolling once or twice at each setting until you get to the thickness you would like - I usually go to around 6 on my pasta maker. It should be very thin but not breaking up. If using a ravioli mold, lay the sheet of pasta over a ravioli mold then press down the frame to make indents. Fill each with a teaspoon of filling. Lightly dampen around the edges of each ravioli with a little water then roll another pasta layer to place on top, or fold over the rest of the piece you have if it is long enough, trying to avoid any air getting in each one. Press down with a rolling pin to seal then trim the excess pasta from around the side of the mould and add to a piece to use later. Carefully remove each ravioli from the mold and lay them on the floured trays. If not using a mould, you can make them by laying the first piece of pasta out, dotting teaspoons of filling out evenly in lines with gaps between, dampening between then laying another layer on top. Then gently press in the areas between the filling to seal and cut. Repeat with the rest of the pasta and filling. Once all the pasta has been used and you are ready to cook, place a few ravioli at a time in a shallow pan of boiling water for around 2-3 minutes until they rise up to the top, then remove with a slotted spoon and cook the rest in batches. Serve with simple brown sage butter warm approx ½-1 tbsp (7-15g) butter per person with a couple sage leaves in a small skillet until you can see it brown slightly and the smell becomes nutty. Drizzle over the top of the cooked ravioli.
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