When it comes to wine, Sicily is what the grownups might’ve called a ‘cheat code’, back when they were kids. The largest island in the Mediterranean is home to 135,000 hectares of vineyards – more than in all of Bordeaux -- a winemaking history some 2500 years old, and an alphabet (from Acitana to Zibibbo) of native varietals thriving in near ideal viticultural conditions. A classic Mediterranean climate of bright sunshine, and reliably moderate rainfall allows for an extended, three month harvest season, beginning in the August heat of Trapani on the west coast and ending on the slopes of Mt. Etna in mid-November. The generally arid conditions reduce the chances of rot and mildew, especially in coastal areas, which makes it easy to go green. (“It’s stupid not to farm organically in Sicily” renowned local enologa Arianna Occhipinti has said. “We have the perfect climate.”) While there are arguably more celebrated (and certainly more expensive) wine regions in Italy, none can match Sicily’s particular alchemy of terroirs, grapes, and intrepid vignerons steeped in local tradition and relatively unencumbered by the fine print of Italy’s wine classification system.
So it can feel like we’re here all the time in IWC - though after actually checking I was surprised to find no visits at all in 2024 and none in 2025 save March. In any event, we’re back this month on account of all of the above. But I am also cheating a little bit because the white selection is actually from one of the Aelion Islands (also sometimes called the Lipari chain), which consists of seven(ish) tiny freckles stippling the Tyrrhenian sea off of Sicily’s northeastern coast. Those islands large enough to have names include: Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi and Panerea. Like their more imposing neighbor they are volcanic (Stromboli is essentially always erupting a little) and popular with the tourists, welcoming some 600,000 visitors annually.
The year round population is a little smaller than Sicily’s 4.7 million though. According to the most recent count, there are just 15,419 permanent residents across the whole archipelago. Among the most notable you’d have to imagine is Antonio Caravaglia, whose family has been cultivating wine grapes on Salina and Lipari for 500 years or so. Nino, as he is known, was the first to produce his own bottlings, starting in 1989, and farming organically from the start. (He also continued growing and selling the other family crop: capers, for which Salina is apparently the best spot in the world. Anyway, all his wines are great and unique but the Salina Bianco is arguably the most immediately approachable and definitely the most affordable. Brimming with stone fruit, citrus, white flower and sea salt, it’s like Kerner on a beach vacation or Assyrtiko with an Italian accent.
For the red, we return to the big island where a relative newcomer is farming a very specific spot: Guiseppe Cipolla started planting vines on his family’s land in southern central Sicily about 10 years ago. The area was once home to salt and sulfur mines, meaning the soil is a unique and mineral rich composite of chalky gypsum, halite, calcareous sulfur and and other types of salt deposits from the Messinian period about 5-6 million years ago. This bottling is called ‘Le Robbe’, which roughly translates to ‘the goods’ in local dialect. This might be because the wine is itself very good, or because the Guiseppe doesn’t know exactly what’s in it, or cause it contains grapes from two sites, with vines anywhere from 15 to 230 years old. I’m not sure. I do know that it is the most impressive new wine I’ve had from Sicily since March - a veritable eternity in This-Particular-Island wine time.
Salud,
Alan Hicks- Wine Buyer
PlumpJack Wine & Spirits Noe Valley
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Caravaglio Salina Bianco 2024 |
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Region: Salina and Lipari (Aeolian Islands) |
About the Winemaker: Few places in the world embody the philosophy of natural winemaking as effortlessly as does Salina, where Antonino Caravaglio crafts his peerless wines by hand. Part of the Aeolian Island chain off the coast of Sicily, Salina is a slice of paradise, created by volcanoes and carved by the Mediterranean winds. Caravaglio makes what he calls “island” wines, choosing to ferment on indigenous yeasts and limit the addition of sulfur, all so that Salina’s natural character—its volcanic soils, its sea-salty air, its wild herbs—is exactly what you taste and savor in each rare bottle. About the Winemaking: On the island of Salina, vineyards sit from 600 to 1,200 feet above sea level in the Malfa district (the highest quality vine-growing area) with a view of the Mediterranean. Soils are a mix of volcanic sand and rock. Vines are 20 to 30 years old. Hand-harvested and sorted in the fields. Gentle, full-cluster press; fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks. Aged in tank on fine lees for three months. Blend is 90% Malvasia delle Lipari, 10% other indigenous grapes. Tasting Notes: In some order: Meyer lemon, peach pit, sea shells, herbs, white flower, salty acidity and a memory of honey, maybe. |
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Winemaker: Antonino Caravaglio |
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Price per bottle / per case $25.99 / $280.70 |
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Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled vegetables, Grilled Octopus, Spaghetti with Clams Caper headlined dishes (see recipe) |
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Giuseppe Cipolla Passofonduto Rosso Le Robbe 2023 |
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Region: Terre Siciliane IGT |
About the Winemaker: Passofonduto is located about 25 kms from Agrigento and the south coast of central Sicily on the edge of the province of Caltanisetta. This is a landscape of steep outcrops that was once a source of salt and sulfur. The mines now lay unused as the demand for rock salt and rock sulfur has moved over to industrial sources. But the richness in these minerals is evident in the soils all around making it a very unique area to cultivate vines. In 2015 Giuseppe Cipolla began planting vines on a plot of land that his family cultivated mainly for other crops like grains, olives, fruits and legumes. Working with two other plots of grapes that were already established in the Contrade Torre di Salto d’ Angio and San Vicenzo he began the search for his ideal expression of terroir in the wines he started making. About the Winemaking: The grapes here come from two contrade. The first is the Contrada San Vicenzo, where 15 year old vines of Nero d'Avola trained in guyot grow in opaque limestone and dark clay. The second is the Contrada Torre di Salto d'Angio, where the vines are 230 years old and planted in alberello and pergola, including indigenous white grapes Giuseppe does not know the name of. These constitute roughly 15% of the blend. The grapes are destemmed and macerate for one to three days then ferment and age in barrel. A small amount of SO2 is added at press and during rackings. Tasting Notes: Wild strawberry, citrus, black tea tannins serenading a finely textured mineral core. Light and lively, does well with a slight chill. |
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Winemaker: Guiseppe Cipolla |
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Price per bottle / per case: $49.99 / $539.98 |
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Suggested Food Pairing: Roast Turkey, Pasta, Meatier fish dishes Pizza Roasted Vegetables Pantesca Salad (see recipe) Thanksgiving leftovers |
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Pantesca Salad
Pantesca salad is a Sicilian cuisine classic, quite versatile and great looking on a plate. The recipe includes boiled potatoes, tomatoes, onions, oregano, capers, and olives, but feel free to add oil-packed fish such as tuna and mackerel, roasted octopus, and even a head of lettuce.
Ingredients:
1 head of lettuce (optional)
4 medium-sized potatoes
16 (Pachino) cherry tomatoes
2 Tbsp. dark olives (pitted or not, as you like)
1 handful of salt-packed capers
2 Tropea red onions*
extra-virgin olive oil
basil, thyme, oregano, salt
2 glasses of wine vinegar
Instructions:
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Boil the potatoes in a pot with plenty of salted water, leaving the peel on.
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When you can easily pierce a fork through the potatoes, drain them. Let cool a little bit, then remove the peels and chop the potatoes into large squares.
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Meanwhile, slice the onions and soak them in a bowl with the vinegar for at least 30 minutes. This will soften their sharp flavor.
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Rinse the capers well in a strainer, then pat them dry with paper towels.
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Wash the tomatoes then slice them in half
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Combine the potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce (if you're including it), drained onions, olives, capers, and herbs (thyme, basil, and oregano) in a bowl. Season with salt and extra-virgin olive oil and mix.
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Let sit in the fridge for around 30 minutes before serving so that the flavors fuse together.
