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PlumpJack

Nikolaihof Wachau Hefeabzug Gruner Veltliner

The regular sur-lie bottling seems to have attained some uncanny virtuosity of late—though Saahs would quarrel with “of late,” and they make a good case if the 1987 vintage Hefeabzug they gave us to drink is anything to go by—what a fantastic wine that was. This ’15 is wonderful nonetheless, sweetly oyster-y aromas lead into a palate full of sweet energy; it’s long but not really a saline length, but more of a delicate floral chalkiness that coats the palate and doesn’t quit.