Giuseppe Calabrese tends 4ha of old bush vines in the Pollino Mountains of Cosenza province in northern Calabria. This area of Italy is very remote; to say that Giuseppe is plowing the rough road is an understatement. For this isolation, his wines brim with the authenticity of self-edification; they are entirely unique interpretations of the Pollino wilds, without influence from would-be neighboring winemakers and peers. Magliocco Dolce [mah-l’yee-OHK-koh DAWL-che]* can be a moody wine: smoky, savory, black fruited, with grainy tannins. Grown at altitude and in limestone soils, Guiseppe’s Magliocco shows freshness and is clearly drawn while still possessing a brawny complexion. Wood-fired dishes, such as roasted lamb or eggplant pair well, even with a bit of Calabrian hot pepper.