Canavese
About a million years ago, a river of ice by the name of Balteo the Glacier traveled through what is now northwestern Italy, dragging ten ice ages worth of mineral-rich dirt and debris 75 miles from Mont Blanc (highest peak in the Alps) to the Po plain. Among the footprints left by the giant on its journey is the natural moraine (a word I just learned meaning “made by a glacier”) amphitheater of the Ivrea Valley, bisected by the Dora Baltea, a tributary that took its parent’s name. It’s the only such area in Europe carved by all the great Tectonic plates of the Alps, and it boasts an unmatched mineral diversity as a result.
Today, these stunningly beautiful and remote hills are alive with the sound of strenuous manual labor, as a small group of intrepid winemakers attempt to translate this geological Babel into Vino Esperanto. Called Canavese now, it sits right on the border between Piedmont and the Valle D’Aosta ( though technically part of the former) and is composed of three sub-denominations:, Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG, Carema DOC and Canavese DOC. These are all tiny appellations, producing small yields under difficult circumstances, but the resultant juice is frequently extraordinary, and quite distinct from its famous contemporaries further to the south in Piedmont. For November, we have two such bottlings that will make excellent Thanksgiving guests.
Erbaluce di Caluso is the oldest of the three; it was in fact designated Piedmont’s first white wine appellation in 1967, before an elevation to DOCG status in 2010. As the name suggests, the grape here is Erbaluce, an old and exceedingly rare ingenious varietal; of the 300 to 400 hectares total in Italy, 242 of them are in and around the town of Caluso (pop. 1,700) 35 km outside of Turin, in the foothills of the Alps. Erbaluce can be made dry or sweet, still or sparkling on account of its remarkable ability to retain high acid levels even at full ripeness. When presented, as it is here, in its dry white guise, and by a local master like Bruno Giacometto, its specific glacial lineage is traceable via a delicate and saline minerality that wreaths the razor sharp acidity you want to cut through the fatty dishes on your holiday table.
Our red is made from the Nebbiolo grape, Piedmont’s signature varietal, and one of Italy’s (and the world’s) great red grapes, most famous for its Barolo and Barbaresco bottlings. In this case it comes from the aforementioned Carema sub-appellation, further north than Caluso, and even smaller (town pop. 800), with just 16.5 hectares of Nebbiolo under vine in the entire area. As with the rest of Canavese, the farming is on steep-terraced vineyards using the ancient pergola system (a horizontal canopy where the vines are actually trained above the vineyard worker’s head) upon soils characterized by their glacial deposits. In this case, they are nearly 70% sand, with glacial stones of serpentine and gneiss and a small portion of chalk, quite different from Langhe or Alto Piedmonte next door. Carema wines are defined by their minerality and elegant, precise tannins; Monte Maletto’s Battio Del Maletto 2022 has these qualities in spades, and as soon I tried it I knew I wanted it to be our Thanksgiving red.
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Bruno Giacometto Erbaluce “Aὐτόχϑ∞ν” Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG 2022 |
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Region: Erbaluce di Caluso, Canavese, Piedmont |
About the Winery: The Giacometto family has been an integral part of Erbaluce di Caluso for decades. Following World War I, Bruno’s grandfather Gioachino increased his vineyard holdings and expanded the wine cellar. Azienda Vitivinicola Giacometto was officially founded in 1962 by Bruno's parents, Giuseppe and Nella, when they bottled their first vintage. Bruno was born in 1961 and was actively involved in the family winery as a teenager. In 1977, he convinced his father to experiment with a new technique that was generating remarkable wines in the region. Rather than leaving Erbaluce in contact with the skins for a few days as tradition had previously dictated, Bruno lobbied Giuseppe to vinify a white wine without any skin contact. The resultant wine was crisp, floral, and immediately satisfying. In 2001, Bruno took the reins and has since ushered the winery into a new era. Now happily retired from the IT industry, Bruno has thrown himself into his vineyards and his cellar full time. His wines stand out from most in the zone in that they sourced from certified-organic estate vineyards and vinified using only wild yeast. He likes to say he’s never married because Erbaluce is the true love of his life. About the Winemaking: The crown jewel of Giacometto’s production is arguably the “Aὐτόχϑ∞ν” Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG. This bottling is made from a special selection of grape bunches in the vineyard and is notable for its extended time on the fine lees following fermentation in stainless steel. Bruno’s original name for this wine, “Autoctono,” was intended to highlight the autochthonous—meaning indigenous—nature of Erbaluce, but the regulations of the DOCG would not permit such a name. So, he penned it in Greek, substituting the penultimate letter with an infinity sign. A mathematical mind with the soul of an artist, Bruno was not about to have his creativity compromised. Tasting Notes: Fresh, slightly grassy on impact; notes of citrus, sage, jasmine, acacia flower, green apple, white peach. Distinctively saline and mineral palate with balanced fruit, pronounced length, and delicate aromatics. |
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Winemakers: Bruno Giacometto |
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Price per bottle / Price per case $38.99/$421.10 |
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Suggested Food Pairing: Butternut squash soup with Dungeness crab, Pumpkin Risotto (with or without Scallops) Whole Roasted Branzino with roasted tomatillos, garlic and herbs, Pizza, Turkey, Thanksgiving vegetable dishes like brussel sprouts, garlic green beans, roasted yam and kale salad. |
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Monte Maletto "Battito del Maletto" Nebbiolo Canavese DOC 2022 |
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Region: Carema, Canavese, Piedmont |
About the Winery: Gian Marco Viano, a young and dynamic producer, has revitalized Carema, one of Italy's smallest and yet oldest viticultural sites. Arriving amidst a crisis, with aging grape growers unable to tend the challenging terrain, Gian Marco saw an opportunity to make a difference. As a professional sommelier with experience across Europe, including stints in Michelin-starred establishments, his passion for winemaking was kindled by the historic significance of Carema, influenced by the renowned journalist Mario Soldati. In 2014, Gian Marco took his first steps into winemaking, starting with a small vineyard in the town center. Recognizing the need for technical expertise, he honed his skills working with producers in Ivrea. With determination, he leased eight small parcels on the northern slopes of Carema, connected by a rugged trail. This journey through time, winding amidst historic terraces, embodies the essence of Carema's rich heritage. Situated beneath the Vallee d'Aosta border, Carema's wine-making culture was on the brink of extinction, with only a handful of producers persevering. Today, less than 20 hectares (50 acres) of terraced vineyards are cultivated, making this one of Italy’s smallest appellations. The restoration efforts of Gian Marco and others have safeguarded this unique terroir, where pergola-trained vines flourish in sandy soils dotted with glacial stones. About the Winemaking: 95% Nebbiolo, and 5% Ner d’Ala (a native variety sparsely cultivated in the Canavese, in Valle d’Aosta and in the Pinerolese area). 70% of the grapes come from organically farmed, rented vineyards in the Canavese area, 30% from small parcels in Carema. Fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel vats, with 20% of whole clusters. Aged in stainless steel vats for about 10 months. Tasting Notes: The core of dark dry cherries is followed by notes of licorice, tobacco leaves, and clove. As it opens up, mesmerizing aromas of peppermint and clove add a refined touch to the finish. |
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Winemaker: Gian Marco Viano |
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Price per bottle / Price per case $40.99/$442.70 |
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Suggested Food Pairing: Cornbread, stuffing, mushroom risotto, Caprese salad, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, turkey, anything on your Thanksgiving table that isn’t sweet. |
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You may know salsa verde as a typical Mexican condiment made with tomatillos, avocado, jalapeños, and cilantro, and served with tortilla chips. But In Italy, salsa verde is known as a Piedmontese specialty made with olive oil, parsley, garlic, anchovies, capers, lemon juice, and seasoning. It does wonders for vegetables and will provide a welcome burst of vivid flavor to any gathering. To make it vegetarian, substitute capers for the anchovies.
Ingredients:
Yield: 4 Side Dish Servings
- ¾ cup whole shelled almonds
- 1 large head broccoli, cut into florets (about 1 pound florets)
- 1 large head cauliflower, cut into florets (about 1 pound florets)
- 10 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
- 1 teaspoon salt
- ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for dressing
- 1 shallot, minced
- 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
- 3 anchovy filets, minced
- Juice of ½ lemon
- 1 cup coarsely chopped Italian parsley leaves
Instructions:
Step 1- Heat oven to 350 degrees. Spread almonds on a baking sheet and toast until brown and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Leave the oven on. When almonds have cooled, chop coarsely.
- Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss broccoli and cauliflower with 4 tablespoons of olive oil, salt and pepper. Spread on two baking sheets and roast until tender, 20 to 30 minutes.
- In a large bowl, mix shallot and vinegar and set aside for 5 minutes. Whisk in anchovies, lemon juice, remaining 6 tablespoons olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in almonds and parsley.
- Remove vegetables from the oven, add to a bowl and toss with sauce. Taste and add more salt, pepper, vinegar or lemon, if needed. Serve warm or at room temperature.
