Club Corner
Italian Wine Club August 2026
UMBRIA In 1906, the poet Giosuè Carducci became the first Italian to win the Nobel Prize for Literature, largely on the strength of 56 poems he composed between 1877 and 1889, comprising three volumes that are collectively known as the Odi Barbare or The Barbarian Odes. The English translation of the title carries a pejorative charge its author did not intend; rather than referring to violent savages, Barbarians here are just the pre-Christian, Greek and Roman civilizations often celebrated in Carducci’s verse. The poet, an ardent patriot, connects these legends of antiquity to contemporary avatars of the Italian state like Garibaldi and Queen Margherita, forging and celebrating a usable collective past for a peninsula less than a decade removed from unification. The most famous lines though, are about Umbria: “Hail, green Umbria…..I feel in my heart the ancient home, my fevered brow touched by the olden gods of Italy.” The region has been known as Italy’s “green heart” ever since - a sobriquet ubiquitous enough to come off as a cliche, but it’s more like a proverb. Though small, rugged, and perpetually in neighboring Tuscany’s shadow, there is something about Umbria that really ties the Italian tasting room together; its rolling hills and medieval towns occupy the center square of the Apennine peninsula, and it is the only Italian region without a coastline or international border. From Umbria, all you can see is more Italy/other Italians, in other words; perhaps that’s why Carducci (originally from Tuscany and a resident of Bologna for most of his adult life) thought it appropriate to make the place his conduit to the ages. But there’s also more to Umbria than timeless, platonic Italianness. Like most ancient places where it’s easy to observe your neighbors but hard to escape them, the region has a complicated relationship to its surroundings. Umbria is eccentric: it houses old, relatively un-touristed villages with venerable but unfamiliar folkways; the giant lake Trasimeno, to rival the more famous Como, (featuring an island, Maggiore, in the center with exactly 12 residents), its own tiny Venice (the 50 house village of Rasiglia, with canals and waterways dating back to the Middle Ages) and the world’s second largest human-made waterfall, Marmore, which the Romans initially constructed to divert unsanitary water away from a nearby town, but now produces hydroelectric power. It is also the onetime site of the accidental republic of Cospaia (1440-1826.) Forgotten in a real estate transaction between Pope Eugene IV and the republic of Florence on account of confusion over two local streams with the same name, this tiny strip of land found itself abruptly without landlord, and the inhabitants took the opportunity to declare independence. They also declined to institute a formal government or legal system, build jails, prisons, police or military, and instead attempted to live by one written maxim, inscribed on a church door and parish bell: Perpetua et firma libertas or “Perpetual and secure freedom.” During its surprisingly durable existence, Cospaia became a tariff-free special economic zone, and buffer between the Papal States and the Duchy of Tuscany. Beholden to the laws of neither, it was also exempt from a tobacco-growing ban and thus had a monopoly on the production of the crop. This relative lack of rules predictably attracted all kinds of exiles, fugitives, mountebanks and annoying libertarian types who made the place a byword for contraband, leading to its incorporation into the Papal States at the end of the Napoleonic era. Each of its residents received a silver Papal coin and the authorization to continue tobacco production as compensation. I don’t know why there hasn’t been a prestige cable drama set there yet. I would also love to find bottles I could claim were Cospaian for the club, but the wine from Umbria is distinctive enough on its own - it doesn’t require (sorry) cosplay. This month we have a Sangiovese based blend that incorporates Sagrantino, the tannic, full-bodied red grown almost exclusively here. And our white selection is made from Trebbiano Spoletino, an ancient varietal, indigenous to Umbria and totally distinct from other grapes under the ‘Trebbiano’ umbrella. Both are great. Alan Hicks - Wine Buyer, Noe Valley Scacciadiavoli Trebbiano Spoletino Region: Todi, Umbria, Italy About the Winery: The Scacciadiavoli winery was founded in 1884 by Principe Ugo Boncompagni Ludovisi and got its name from an exorcist who used to live near the property that utilized the wine for his rituals. Scacciadiavoli means literally ‘devil chaser’. The winery was already advanced by the standards of that time. In 1954 Amilcare Panbuffetti was 71 when he acquired the property although he had worked there sincehe was 14. Alfio, Settimio, and Mario, his three sons, followed in his footsteps in 1977 and another Panbuffetti generation came after that in 2000. The future appears to keep the family together aroundthe commitment of making good wine and gratefully continuing their ancestors’ trail. The estate now comprises almost 322 acres of which 87 are dedicated to vineyards. They cover the hillside of Montefalco and the surrounding area. About the Winemaking: Fermentation in stainless steel at controlled temperature Aging is stainless steel on fine lees for 3 months Tasting Notes: Bright straw yellow with delicate greenish highlights. Fresh and delicate, with notes of green apple, pear and white peach, followed by citrus hints of lemon and citron. Lean and vibrant, defined by lively acidity and pleasant sapidity that enhances freshness and drinkability. Winemaker: Paolo Cotroneo Giovanni & Eleonora Morone Price per bottle / per case $ 33.99 $367.10 Suggested Food Pairing: Ideal with simple, delicate, low-fat dishes: Bruschetta with new olive oil: Grilled vegetables or crudités, fresh or semi-soft cheeses “Umbrian Style” Tip: Torta al testo with wild herbs, scrambled eggs with summer truffle (if used moderately) Roccafiore Montefalco Rosso 2022 Region: Todi, Umbria, Italy About the Winery: Cantina Roccafiore farms 15 hectares (almost 40 acres) of vineyards in the rolling hills of the Umbrian countryside near the town of Todi. The Baccarelli family (father and son) bought the property in 1999, planted the local Grechetto and Sangiovese along with small parcels of Moscato Giallo, Sagrantino, and Montepulciano, and made their first vintage in 2005. Formerly in the energy business, they kept a mind toward sustainability from the beginning, building a renewable facility, using organic fuels for their tractors, and farming organically. Young Luca Baccarelli feels that this form of cultivation makes for soils richer in organic materials, fewer vine diseases, and healthier grapes. (See more on their sustainability program below). The training system is Guyot, on terraced hillsides; the soils are whitish clay, rich in limestone and chalk; and all vineyards face South-East, catching fresh winds from the nearby mountains. There are 6,500 vines per hectare, mostly from massal selection, and the yield is 85 quintals of grapes per hectare (roughly 3.5 tons per acre). Indigenous yeast fermentations. They use only estate-grown fruit. About the Winemaking: Totally hand-picked, the grapes are separately collected in the last week of September and the first half of October The grapes are separately destemmed and pressed, the skin maceration lasts 8/10 days and the fermentation takes place with wild yeast in stainless steel tank, where temperatures are strictly controlled, followed by the racking and the malolactic fermentation 70% sangiovese, 15% sagrantino, 15% merlot and cabernet sauvignon Ageing: 18 months in neutral large barrels of Slavonian oak, after being blended and bottled, it refines at the least 6 months in the bottle Tasting Notes: Brilliant and intense red ruby colour. Tones of ripe plums, small red fruits, notes of sweet spices. Pleasant, flowing and fresh, with soft and elegant `tannins Winemaker: Paolo Cotroneo Price per bottle / per case $33.99 $367.10 Suggested Food Pairing: Excellent with roast or grilled meats, stews and wild game, fettucine with wild boar ragù, truffle ravioli, spaghetti alla norcina (see recipe below). Spaghetti alla norcina (Spaghetti Norcia style) Norcia is a small town in the southern part of Umbria, up in the mountains over 6500 ft. altitude. This place is known for the skills of the local butchers with cured pig meats like salami, prosciutti, sausages and other preparations. The area is also famous for the black truffle (tartufo nero di Norcia) that is foraged by locals that pass on the secret of this tradition from generation to generation. INGREDIENTS (serving 4) 320 g spaghetti 100 g fresh black truffle 4 anchovies fillet in olive oil 4 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1 sprig of thyme 1 clove of garlic Instructions - Bring a pot with water to boil then add the spaghetti - Clean the truffle with a brush for vegetables if it needs it - Thinly slices 3⁄4 of the truffle with a truffle slicer if you have or with a sharp knife - Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan and before it starts sizzling remove from the flame, add the truffle and mix to obtain - a sauce. If too thick add one or two tablespoons of water - Bring back the pan on the burner keeping the flame low - Add the garlic clove and the anchovies. Using a wooden spoon mix delicately all the ingredients for the sauce - When the spaghetti is done drain them, saving a cup of pasta water in case the sauce get to dry - Add the spaghetti to the sauce and sauté at medium-low heat for a minute - Check if it needs any salt and serve in pasta bowl with the rest of the truffle, more anchovies if you like, and thyme leaves
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Wine of the Month May '24: Umbria
Umbria Situated in a hilly region close to Perugia, the Goretti estate experiences a stunning interplay of sunrises and sunsets, resulting in breathtaking vistas and vivid colors. Coupled with the fertile soil of Umbria, this remarkable setting gives rise to vineyards that transcend geographical boundaries, gaining international acclaim. At this farm, the family elevates the wine-making tradition of the area through the combined expertise of their entrepreneurial journey and unwavering dedication to producing wine of exceptional quality. Their passion permeates every aspect of their work, as they meticulously attend to details and strive for harmony with the surrounding environment. The history of wine producers at Goretti Cellars dates back to the early 1900s, having been passed down through four generations from father to son. The winery continues to proudly maintain its presence in the wine industry, embracing sentiment, evolution, and an unwavering commitment to quality. Their ongoing goal is to continually pursue excellence in quality, study, and exploration of novel practices in farming and wine production. Additionally, the promotion of the local culture and heritage, for which the company is the primary representative, is also a key objective. For over a century, the Goretti family has taken pride in their long-standing tradition of wine production. Although their main estate is situated in the Perugini hills of Pila, they have spent the last 50 years crafting exceptional Sagrantino and Montefalco Rosso. The Montefalco wines benefit from the region's warm summers, but their elevation of four hundred meters ensures a pleasant coolness, resulting in perfectly balanced wines. The same can be said for the Estate in Pila, nestled among the Perugini hills. In line with the typical landscape of Umbria, the soil in the Colli Perugini Hills is a harmonious blend of calcareous and clay, while in Montefalco, the soil is predominantly comprised of gravel with hints of sand and clay. The complexity of these soils in both estates allows for the creation of wines that offer a delightful interplay of flavors on the palate, accompanied by captivating aromas. Giulia and Sara Goretti, the fourth generation overseeing both the winery's commercial business and vineyard, are dedicated to the highest of standards in viticulture. Their business decisions prioritize the highest quality grapes while minimizing stress on both the vines and the soil. The winery's cellars emphasize environmental impact, understanding that protecting the territories where their vines thrive is what sets their products apart. In addition to the Montefalco estate's exceptional elegant and tannic red wines, the Pila estate produces approachable sangiovese wines and complex territorial whites, such as the highly acclaimed Grechetto and Trebbiano Spoletino. The Goretti family stands out among Umbrian winemakers for their ability to excel in both wine realities, a testament to their four-generational wine making tradition and the new generation's commitment to blending traditional techniques with modern viticultural practices that prioritize the needs of the land and the environment. Cin Cin! Carrie Upson General Manager/WIne Buyer Goretti Grechetto Region / Country of Origin: D.O.C. Colli Perugini, Umbria, Italy About the winery: Situated at the entrance of Perugia, Pila's historical estate is renowned for its expertise in crafting exquisite wines native to Umbria. It also prides itself on producing acclaimed Italian classics, bearing the esteemed labels of DOC and IGT, ensuring exceptional quality. About the winemaking: Hand harvested at the beginning of September from 8 year old vines. Controlled fermentation in stainless steel, with less than a year of bottle aging before release. Tasting Notes: Color is light straw-yellow with faint greenish reflections. The bouquet is deep and elegant with fruit notes of pineapple, banana, yellow peach, Scotch broom flowers and almonds. The palate is fresh and full flavored, well-balanced with a lingering finish. Fun Fact: The label changes colors when the bottle is chilled! Winemaker: Sara and Giulia Goretti Price: $22.99/btl, $248.29/case Suggested Food Pairing: As an aperitif, fish and white meat, excellent with most dishes Goretti Montefalco Rosso Region / Country of Origin: DOC Montefalco Rosso, Umbria, Italy About the winery: This modern winery, known as "Le Mura Saracene," focuses on producing two significant red wines: the Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG and the Rosso di Montefalco DOC. They firmly believe that the quality of their wines is not a result of guesswork, but rather stems from a profound understanding of the land, climate, and production methods. About the winemaking: Harvested at the beginning of October, hand picked with strict selection at the sorting table. Controlled alcoholic fermentation in stainless-steel tanks with a temperature of about 18-20°C for 14 days. Aged 13-14 months in barriques and about 12 months in bottle. 65% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot, 15% Sagrantino Tasting notes: The color is a rich ruby red with purplish hues. The bouquet is complex and rich. Touch of ripe red fruit, mature black-fruit, blackberry, cherry and black currant with spicy nuances of cocoa, vanilla, liquorice and cinnamon aromas. Medium-bodied, warm and austere, with nuanced notes of coffee and tobacco. Slightly tannic. Decant before serving. Winemaker: Sara and Giulia Goretti Price: $25.99/btl, $280.80/case Suggested Food Pairing: Pasta dishes with intense tomato sauce, roast and grilled meats and fish, excellent with spicy chicken, beef, lamb, game & cheeses
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