Club Corner
January 2026 Italian Wine Club: Trentino-Alto Adige/Suditrol
This month we’re taking it straight to the top, visiting Italy’s northernmost region and leading source of stunning Dolomite peaks, subsequent green valleys, and befuddling nomenclature. Even the above mouthful is an abbreviation, the hyphens and slashes at once repping and yadda yadda yadda-ing centuries of tradition, turmoil, contestation andchange. But it’s worth it to do the toponomastics (a real, actual word that means: the research and study of place names) when it comes to Trentino Alto-Adige; the guises it has gone through over the years are the story of the place, inscriptions of its singularity, in terms of wine and every other thing. Trentino-Alto Adige holds a special, semi-autonomous status and consists of two territories: Alto-Adige in the north, also known as Sudtirol, which corresponds to the autonomous province of Bolzano, and Trentino in the south, corresponding to the autonomous province of Trento. Though this arrangement dates back to 1948, the last local holdouts only officially it in 1992. The population of Bolzano is largely German-speaking, while Trento primarily uses Italian. You can trace this bifurcation back to the Romans, who invaded in 15 BC and divided the area into two separate states. Following the fall of the Empire, the Bavarians took over present day Alto Adige, while the Longobards extended their influence to the Duchy of Trento. The two provinces then spent centuries as contested spaces for invasions, peasant rebellions, various struggles between Church and Empire - and were mostly administered separately, before Napoleon briefly united them, and named the northern part Alto Adige to efface its prior relationship with Tyrol. After his exile, the place passed into the hands of the Hapsburgs, where it was again called Tyrol - though today’s Alto-Adige/Sudtirol was sometimes referred to as Mitteltirol, i.e. Middle Tyrol while Südtirol, i.e. South Tyrol, indicated mostly today's Trentino, which is not called Sudtirol anymore. Confused? There’s more: after World War I and the dismantling of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the whole region was awarded to Italy, just in time for Mussolini to engage in a campaign of forced Italianization, outlawing references to Tyrol and renaming it Venezia Tridentina to emphasize a historical link with one of the Roman states that used to constitute it. Nazi Germany also occupied its heights for a brief period, but several post-war treaties between Austria and Italy later, things seem as settled as plausible: a 2006 attempt to mount a referendum, in which the electorate could vote to stay with Italy, become fully independent or return to Austria, was soundly rejected. Wine-wise, Trentino-Alto Adige boasts one of the most unique and variegated scenes anywhere: 3/4 of all the juice coming down this mountain is produced collectively, by 12 co-operatives composed of 3300 mostly small (avg. plot size: 2.5 acres) growers and their families. The co-ops are organized by town (and thus, terroir) and most focus on a handful of local varietals. It’s a division of labor that contrasts sharply with the visionary individual winemaker narrative we usually encounter, but you can’t argue with the results. Responsible for less than one tenth of Italy’s total wine production, Trentino-Alto Adige leads the nation in bottles meriting a DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) designation, as 98% of the output qualifies. For January we are featuring two outstanding examples of all this collaborative élan. Catina Terlano is one of the oldest co-ops in Tretino-Alto Adige, founded in 1893 by 24 farmers. Today it has 140 members and is arguably the most famous and celebrated of the region’s dozen group efforts - in part because it produces maybe the planet’s greatest Pinot Bianco, which is what we have here. The rosso comes from the Colterenzio collective, which was established in 1960, making it one of the youngest around. It has 300 members and makes mostly white wine, but the reds are fantastic, especially this Riserva Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir.)Prost/Salut! Alan Hicks - Wine Buyer, Noe Valley Terlano Pinot Bianco Tradition 2024Region: Alto-Adige About the Winery: The foundation of the Cantina Terlano in 1893 took place at atime when agriculture was the mainstay of the regional economy. Apart from a fewinnovative winegrowers, however, who looked to the Rheingau region for new ideasand brought grape varieties from Germany and France to South Tyrol, agricultureunder the domination of a few big landowners was backward.The landlords were also the dominant factor in winemaking in the region. In orderto liberate themselves from this domination, 24 Terlano winegrowers decided tojoin forces and founded the Cantina Terlano. Whereas red wines were morecommon in South Tyrol at the end of the 19th century, with a red to white ratio of80:20, Terlano was already well known as a white wine area in 1893. Over the yearsthis focus on white wines has been consolidated, and today the ratio of whites toreds at the Cantina Terlano is 70 percent white to 30 percent red.About the Winemaking: Manual harvest and selection of the grapes; gentlepressing and clarification of the must by natural sedimentation; slow fermentationat a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks, aging on the lees in steel tanksfor 6-7 months.Tasting Notes: On the nose this classic Pinot Bianco has crisp notes of apple andpear mingling with aromas of raspberry and lime, plus a touch of camomile andlemon grass to round off the composition. On the palate, pear and quince flavorswith a salty minerality. The wine tickles the tongue and goes on to deliver apersistent aftertaste. Winemaking: CollectivePrice per bottle / per case$30.99/334.70Suggested Food Pairing: salmonand tuna carpaccio; courgetteflowers with a stracchino cheeseor burrata; avocado salad;regional dishes like spinachspaetzle; spaghetti allacarbonara; scallops au gratin, andgrilled scampi, dentex or seabream Colterenzio St. Daniel Pinot Nero Riserva 2020 January 2026 Region: Trentino-AltoAdige/Südtirol About the Winery: Founded in 1960, the Colterenzio winery is one of the youngestwinegrowers’ cooperatives in Alto Adige. In 1960, 26 winegrowers founded theirown winery to be more independent – and named it after the hamlet they camefrom: Schreckbichl in German, Colterenzio in Italian (meaning: terrible hill.) Thesewinegrowers can be considered rebels but at the same time pioneers for right afterthe foundation of their own winery they were setting the course towards quality.Today, 300 winegrowers together with the people working at Colterenzio continuedthis path.The winegrowers grow their grapes on a total of 300 hectares; the vineyards arelocated in one of the best wine growing areas of Alto Adige, on altitudes from 230to 650 meters. 14 different varieties are cultivated. 35% of the wines at Colterenzioare red, 65% are white. The Colterenzio winery cares about the environment, notonly in the vineyards, but also in the cellar. In the vineyard this means sustainableviticulture and handpicked grapes. In the winery itself most of the electric energyused in the winery is supplied by a photovoltaic installation, 100% of the electricpower is certified green and 70% of hot water requirements is provided by solarpanels and a heat recovery system.About the Winemaking: Vineyards at an altitude of 350 – 450 metres a.s.l.; soilsare volcanic with an overlay of morainal deposits. The climate is cool with strikingdifferences between day and night time temperatures.The grapes are destemmed, softly pressed and briefly cold-macerated; thefermentation occurs at a constantly controlled temperature of 25° C for 14 days.The young wine then refines into casks – 2/3 in large 35 hl casks and 1/3 inbarriques – where it goes through malolactic fermentation and remains for 12months before bottling. The wine ages in bottle for further 12 months beforerelease. 100% Pinot Nero from 15-20 year-old, vertical espalier-trained vines.Tasting Notes: Medium-intense garnet; red colour a seductive bouquet of cherry,damsons, red fruits and cinnamon; medium-rich on the palate, supple and lusciouswith flavours of black and red berries, velvety tannins and discreet hints of oakspice. Winemaking: Collective Price per bottle / per case$35.99/$ Suggested Food Pairing:Delicately flavoured starters,charcuterie veal escallops inginger sauce, roast partridge,seared duck with plum glaze, andmeaty fish. January 2026 Strangolapreti (Bread and Spinach Dumplings) Made from stale bread, these hearty mountain dumplings are a great way to use leftover loaves. Enjoy with brown butter and sage or floating in your favorite chicken or vegetable broth. Ingredients 1 1/8 lb of spinach7 1/16 oz of stale bread, blitzed into breadcrumbs6 1/16 fl oz of whole milk2 large eggs3 oz of plain flour, plus extra for dusting1 3/4 oz of Grana Pradano*, grated1 pinch of nutmeg, freshly gratedSalt & pepper to taste1 3/4 oz of buttersemolina flour, for dusting*(A hard cheese from the Po River Valley similar to Parmesan.)Instructions 1. Place the breadcrumbs in a bowl with the milk, mix well and leave to soak.2. Place a large frying pan over a high heat and add the spinach with just a sprinkle of water. Cover with a lidfor a couple of minutes whilst it wilts. Use kitchen tongs to stir the spinach until all the leaves are wilted.Squeeze the spinach with the tongs to release excess liquid, then place in a sieve to drain and cool.3 .Once cool enough to handle, squeeze out any more liquid and finely chop.4. By now, the bread should have absorbed most of the milk. Place the bread in a bowl with the spinach, eggs,nutmeg, salt and pepper and mix well.5. Add the flour bit by bit until the mixture starts to dry up and forms a dough – the less flour you use, thelighter and airier the dumplings will be. The mixture should be just stiff enough to roll into the dumpling shapes.6. It is a good idea to cook a tester dumpling at this stage to check if the flour quantity is correct. Simply dollopa spoonful of the mixture into salted boiling water– it should float to the top after a minute. If the dumpling fallsapart, add a little more flour. Taste and check the seasoning, too.7. Use your hands to roll the mixture into little cylinder-shaped dumplings. If the mixture is very sticky, greaseyour hands a little with vegetable oil which should make things easier. Place the dumplings on a tray sprinkledwith semolina flour to stop them from sticking.8 .Cook the dumplings in salted boiling water in batches so as to not overcrowd the pan. They're cooked oncethey rise to the surface.9. As the dumplings are boiling away, add the butter to a large frying pan over a medium heat. Once the buttermelts, add the sage leaves and continue to cook until the sage starts to crisp up and the butter turns a nuttybrown.10. Once the dumplings have floated to the top, drain and add to the flavoured butter. Toss to evenly coat thenserve up warm, with extra grated Grana Padano if desired.
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Italian Wine Club July 2024: Trentino-Alto Adige/Sudtirol
TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE/SUDTIROL This month we’re taking it straight to the top, visiting Italy’s northernmost region and leading source of stunning Dolomite peaks, subsequent green valleys, and befuddling nomenclature. Even the above mouthful is an abbreviation, the hyphens and slashes at once repping and yadda yadda yadda-ing centuries of tradition, turmoil, contestation and change. But it’s worth it to do the toponomastics (a real, actual word that means: the research and study of place names) when it comes to Trentino Alto-Adige; the guises it has gone through over the years are the story of the place, inscriptions of its singularity, in terms of wine and every other thing. Trentino-Alto Adige holds a special, semi-autonomous status and consists of two territories: Alto-Adige in the north, also known as Sudtirol, which corresponds to the autonomous province of Bolzano, and Trentino in the south, corresponding to the autonomous province of Trento. Though this arrangement dates back to 1948, the last local holdouts only officially accepted it in 1992. The population of Bolzano is largely German-speaking, while Trento primarily uses Italian. You can trace this bifurcation back to the Romans, who invaded in 15 BC and divided the area into two separate states. Following the fall of the Empire, the Bavarians took over present day Alto Adige, while the Longobards extended their influence to the Duchy of Trento. The two provinces then spent centuries as contested spaces for invasions, peasant rebellions, various struggles between Church and Empire - and were mostly administered separately, before Napoleon briefly united them, and named the northern part Alto Adige to efface its prior relationship with Tyrol. After his exile, the place passed into the hands of the Hapsburgs, where it was again called Tyrol - though today’s Alto-Adige/Sudtirol was sometimes referred to as Mitteltirol, i.e. Middle Tyrol while Südtirol, i.e. South Tyrol, indicated mostly today's Trentino, which is not called Sudtirol anymore. Confused? There’s more: after World War I and the dismantling of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the whole region was awarded to Italy, just in time for Mussolini to engage in a campaign of forced Italianization, outlawing references to Tyrol and renaming it Venezia Tridentina to emphasize a historical link with one of the Roman states that used to constitute it. Nazi Germany also occupied its heights for a brief period, but several post-war treaties between Austria and Italy later, things seem as settled as plausible: a 2006 attempt to mount a referendum, in which the electorate could vote to stay with Italy, become fully independent or return to Austria, was soundly rejected. Wine-wise, Trentino-Alto Adige boasts one of the most unique and variegated scenes anywhere: responsible for less than one tenth of Italy’s total wine production, it leads the country in bottles meriting a DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) designation, as 98% of the output qualifies. Though there are still a lot of individual producers (including both of our bottlings here) 70% of the wine is made in large communes across a jigsaw of small vineyards with different exposures, elevations and microclimates, featuring soil types ranging from volcanic porphyry to weathered rock soils composed of quartz and mica, to limestone and dolomite, to sandy marl. The grapes are a mix of international varietals like Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc (many introduced by Archduke Johann of Austria during the Habsburg reign) and indigenous varietals grown nowhere else. Our selections this month furnish a little bit of each: the white, Mani Nossing’s “Sais Rigais” is made from the hybrid Muller-Thurgau grape, created in Germany in the late 19th century by combing Riesling and the table grape Madeline Royal, but arguably made best in Alto Adige today. The red is 100% Teroldego, a varietal indigenous to Trentino; the winemaker this month, Elena Foradori, is unquestionably its most famous exponent. Prost/Salut! Alan Hicks - Wine Buyer, Noe Valley Mani Nossing “Sass Rigais” Muller-Thurgau 2022 Region: Alto-Adige About the Winery: In Bressanone (a.k.a. Brixen), less than twenty miles south of the Austrian border, Manni Nössing runs his small winery amid the towering peaks of the Dolomites. Manni’s vineyards benefit from the mountain climate and steep slopes of glacial deposits that make up the Valle Isarco, the narrow valley to the northeast of Bolzano that is known for its fresh, aromatic whites. Descended from a family of farmers, Manni has no formal training in viticulture or enology but seeks to learn from each vintage in order to produce wines that are capable of giving pleasure while also reflecting the terroir from which they originate. In 2000, he made the decision to start bottling his own wine instead of selling to a nearby co-op. Since then, he has increased his holdings to 5 hectares, all hillside vineyards at altitudes of 650 to 800 meters, planted to Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Müller Thurgau, Riesling, Sylvaner, and Gewürztraminer. While the climate in Alto Adige is certainly a colder one with snowy winters, Manni finds that due to his vines’ southern exposure and the region’s hot summers, the sun is enemy number one. “I want my wines to be drinkable,” he explains. With the belief that good acidity is the key to refreshing, balanced wines, he has recently stopped green harvesting and de-leafing his vines. “My grapes are happy in the shade,” he elaborated. “They are unhappy sitting in the sun all day”. About the Winemaking: Manni’s desire to respect the land and emphasize terroir also applies to his choices in the cellar. All wines are vinified in stainless steel tanks to preserve the grapes’ delicate aromas, though 50% of the Veltliner sees a passage in neutral acacia barrels. After eight months on the lees during which the wines pick up additional richness and texture, they are ready to be bottled. The result is a range of wines that are a joy to drink while also exhibiting exceptional finesse and complexity, perfectly showcasing Manni’s passion for his land and the region’s pristine Alpine beauty. Tasting Notes: Nössing’s Müller features a lustrous perfume bursting with exotic aromas of guava, passion fruit, lime, and wildflowers. This sleek, bracing mineral bomb epitomizes mountain refreshment in its purest form. Winemaker: Mani Nossing Price per bottle / per case $28.99/$313.10 Suggested Food Pairing: Ceviche, Spinach Gnocchi, artichokes and asparagus, white fish, Vietnamese and Thai dishes. Garlic Fettuccine w/ Speck and Radicchio (see recipe) Foradori Vigneti delle Dolomiti Teroldego 2022 Region: Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol About the Winery: Elisabetta Foradori is the force, inspiration and pioneer of one of the most respected enological ventures in Italy. Her sense of belonging to her territory is her working philosophy. An avid rock climber in the mountains where she was born, Elisabetta puts the same passion and perseverance in the vineyard. The Foradori farm was founded in 1901, but it was not until 1960 that they started to bottle their wine. First in charge was Elisabetta’s father Roberto, then after she finished her studies at the school of Istituto Agrario San Michele all’Adige, she dedicated herself to making wines that would totally respect the fruit and the soil from which they came. Today the Foradori estate is totally devoted to biodynamic practices. This idea is clearly expressed in Elisabetta’s words “In my work, I aspire to produce grapes and wine that express the true essence of my land. This same land that I will leave, healthy and alive, to my four children who will thus take pride in their freedom to choose whether they will be farmers.” About the Winemaking: 100% Teroldego. Referred to simply as "Foradori" by the Foradori family when speaking of their various wines, this is the estate's core red: first bottled by Elisabetta's parents back in 1960 and their largest production today. It comes from 9 hectares of estate vines, planted from 1956 to 2005 on the flat, sunny, well-drained Camp Rotaliano plateau right around the winery. The soils are a range of alluvial sand and gravel and feature Dolomitic limestone. Older vines are trained traditionally in pergola; younger vines are trained on wires in guyot. The farming is certified-biodynamic. There are 15 separate parcels, all hand-harvested and vinified separately. The bunches are partly destemmed and partly left intact, depending on the vintage; the uncrushed berries and the whole clusters are layered in cement tanks, where they ferment spontaneously with indigenous yeasts and no sulfur. The wine is aged for around a year in well-worn, 20-40-hectoliter botti and bottled without fining or filtration and with a small dose of sulfur. Tasting Notes: "The 2022 Teroldego mixes rich dark fruits with earth tones, leather and spice to create a truly inviting bouquet. This is soft-textured and round with juicy acidity and masses of mineral-tinged wild berry fruits that cascade throughout. It finishes wildly fresh yet still long and potent, leaving the mouth watering as hints of wild blueberry slowly fade. The 2022 is completely open for business yet with a balance that will carry it for the next three to five years in the cellar." - Eric Guido,Vinous Media March 2024 Winemaker: Elisabetta Foradori/Emilio Zierock Price per bottle / per case $33.99/4376.10 Suggested Food Pairing: Salami, pizza, herb-crusted pork, lamb dishes, aged cheese, grilled meat or vegetables GARLIC FETTUCCINE PASTA WITH SPECK AND RADICCHIO Wild garlic is plentiful in Trentino-Alto Adige and so is wild garlic fettuccine. Harder to find here but you can use any kind of fettuccine (garlic or otherwise), tagliatelle, pappardelle or penne and it will work. Ingredients 350 g fettuccine or tagliatelle, pappardelle or penne 100 g speck or pancetta cut into small cubes or strips 1-2 red radicchio (Italian chicory) 1 small white onion ½ glass of white wine 100 ml heavy cream (or italian cooking cream) 50 g parmesan grated salt for pasta and to taste black pepper to taste 2-3 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 handful walnut pieces INSTRUCTIONS Wash and shred the radicchio (soak leaves in water for 20 minutes before shredding if you want to reduce the bitterness) finely chop the onion and cut the speck into cubes or short strips. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan or skillet and add the onion and ⅔ of the speck. Sauté for a couple of minutes until the onion becomes translucent. Add the shredded radicchio and a pinch of salt. Cover and let cook on a low flame for about 10 minutes. Stirring occasionally. In the meantime, put a pot of water on to boil for the pasta. Add salt once it starts to boil and bring to the boil again. Fry the rest of the speck in a small frying pan with a dash of olive oil until it becomes crispy. Pour the white wine into the pan with the radicchio, turn up the heat and cook until the alcohol has evaporated. Add the cream to the radicchio, stir and simmer on a low heat for another couple of minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. (don't be too generous with the salt as speck tends to be a little salty) Cook the pasta al dente according to the instructions on the packet. Once the pasta is cooked, save a cup of the cooking water and drain the pasta. Add the pasta to the pan with the sauce. Add some of the pasta cooking water if the sauce seems dry. Mix the pasta and sauce together well. Serve with a sprinkling of crispy speck, walnuts (optional) and grated Parmesan.
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August 2023 Wine of the Month Club
TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE/SUDTIROL This month we’re taking it to the top, visiting Italy’s northernmost alpine region and leading source of stunning Dolomite peaks, subsequent green valleys, and befuddling nomenclature. Even the above mouthful is an abbreviation, the hyphens and slashes at once repping and yadda yadda yadda-ing centuries of tradition, turmoil, contestation and change. But it’s worth it to do the toponomastics (a real, actual word I just learned that means: the research and study of place names) when it comes to Trentino Alto-Adige; the guises it has gone through over the years are the story of the place, inscriptions of its singularity, in terms of wine and every other thing. Trentino-Alto Adige holds a special, semi-autonomous status and consists of two territories: Alto-Adige in the north, also known as Sudtirol, which corresponds to the autonomous province of Bolzano, and Trentino in the south, corresponding to the autonomous province of Trento. Though this arrangement dates back to 1948, the last local holdouts only officially accepted it in 1992. The population of Bolzano is largely German-speaking, while Trento primarily uses Italian. You can trace this bifurcation back to the Romans, who invaded in 15 BC and divided the area into two separate states. The two provinces then spent centuries as contested spaces for invasions, peasant rebellions, and various struggles between Church and Empire. They were mostly administered separately before Napoleon briefly united them, dubbing the northern part Alto Adige to efface its prior relationship with Tyrol. After his exile, the place passed into the hands of the Hapsburgs, where it was again called Tyrol - though today’s Alto-Adige/Sudtirol was sometimes referred to as Mitteltirol, i.e. Middle Tyrol while Südtirol, i.e. South Tyrol, indicated mostly today's Trentino, which is not called Sudtirol anymore. Confused? There’s more! After the post World War I dismantling of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the whole region was awarded to Italy, just in time for Mussolini to engage in a campaign of forced Italianization, outlawing references to Tyrol and renaming it Venezia Tridentina to emphasize a historical link with one of the Roman states that used to constitute it. Nazi Germany also occupied its heights for a brief period, but several post-war treaties between Austria and Italy later, things seem as settled as plausible: a 2006 attempt to mount a referendum, in which the electorate could vote to stay with Italy, become fully independent or return to Austria, was soundly rejected. So it’s not as ridiculous as it sounds to say that wine might be what holds everything together; viticulture in the area predates the oldest surviving monikers for it. The Raeti, the alpine tribe the Romans replaced, were already storing their wine in wooden vessels when the latter (still using leather bags and amphorae) showed up, and adopted the technique. Today, Trentino-Alto Adige boasts one of the most unique and variegated winemaking scenes anywhere: responsible for less than one tenth of Italy’s total wine production, it leads the country in wines meriting a DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) designation, as 98% of the output qualifies. Though there are still a lot of individual producers (including one of our bottlings here) 70% of the wine is made in large communes across a jigsaw of small vineyards with different exposures, elevations and microclimates. The grapes are a mix of international varietals like Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc (many introduced by Archduke Johann of Austria during the Habsburg reign) and indigenous varietals grown nowhere else. Cheers, The PlumpJack Wine Team Hartmann Dona Chardonnay Region / Country of Origin: Cornai Alto-Adige, Italy About the winemaker: Hartmann Dona is definitely a winemaker with a sense of mission, who makes no apologies for the intensity and seriousness with which he approaches his craft. A personal statement on his website entitled, “I, Hartmann”, begins: “Ever since I can remember, my life has been in the vineyards, among the grapes, and in the cellars.” After studying enology at the University of Geisheim (the only German institution offering advanced degrees in winemaking) Harmtann interned at the great Terlano winery in Alto Adige before striking out on his own in 2002. His winery is based in Cermes, a small town south of Merano, where he owns a very steep vineyard, as well as another near Bolzano. Both feature mineral-rich soil, and old vines with deep roots that produce limited amounts of terroir-reflective small-berry clusters. As Hartman himself says: “Behind the creation of each wine is a desire to bring to life something absolutely special from the local vines…I am interested in wines that do not follow conventions but express boldly and proudly their distinct personality.” Tasting Notes: This Chardonnay is born of limestone-clayey soils, where it develops its typical aroma of ripe tropical fruit and its mellow, warm taste. Thanks to a well integrated acidity, it presents a fresh and robust finish that is an invitation to continue tasting it. Winemaker: Hartman Dona Price: $27.99 btl/$302.29 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Roasted Filet of salmon with a herb breadcrumb topping, Traditional spinach dumplings, called strangolapreti, applesauce-glazed pork chops with sautéed mushrooms. Colterenzio Lagrein “Classic” Region / Country of Origin: Trentino-Alto-Adige, Italy About the Winery: Colterenzio is one of the newest wineries in South Tyrol, composed of over 300 families working together. This is a new-generation cooperative that smashes preconceptions, proving that a humble “co-op” can consistently deliver some of the most transparent, expressive wines in the top flight region of Alto Adige. Member-winegrowers farm their grapes on a total of 300 hectares; the vineyards are located in one of the best wine growing sub-districts of Alto Adige, on altitudes ranging from 230 to 650 meters with 12 different varieties cultivated. Ecology is a driving principle here – Farming is sustainable and the winery was built with permaculture in mind. About the winemaking: Fermentation takes place with the skins in stainless-steel tanks at controlled temperature for 8 days, followed by malolactic fermentation and a few months refinement in a combination of concrete tanks and large wooden casks. Yields: 70hl/ha. Tasting Notes: Very dark garnet in color with violet reflexes, and an aroma of violets, black woodland berry fruits (bilberry and blackberry) with hints of dark chocolate; mouth-filling and spicy on the palate with ripe, velvety tannins and a long long finish. Complex and refined with hints of violets, cinnamon and red berry fruits. Winemaker: Communal Price: $23.99 btl/$259.10 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Charred steak, Tyrolean Goulash, Aged Alpine cheeses like: Piave Vecchio, Montasio, Gruyère, and Comté. Pepperoni Pizza Pork Schnitzel Roasted Root Vegetables.
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November 2022 Wine of the Month Club
Is it November already? Hard to believe another holiday season is already (almost) upon us, though the calendar, the sun’s position in the sky, and those unnervingly personalized internet pop-up ads are all by now playing The Most Wonderful Time of The Year’s entrance music. But as we prepare to once again squeeze a year’s worth of activity into less than two months of dwindling daylight, feel free to cross “picking out the wine” off the list of things to fret you’ll forget to remember. Finding the right bottles is the easiest and most pleasurable of holiday responsibilities, and Thanksgiving, in particular, is the best occasion for making your oenophilia seem reasonable, useful even. Though some of the traditional elements of the meal are quite specific (turkey, stuffing and cranberry sauce aren’t on a lot of menus the rest of the year), there are so many different possible preparations that the pairing options are almost endless. It is difficult to make a bad wine choice for Thanksgiving, and a thoughtful one is a relatively simple, uncontroversial and ingratiating way to contribute to the gathering. Our selections this month are both Italian - a Schiava from the Alps and a Greco di Tufo from the South - meaning they are pretty much purpose built to inhance and with-stand long meals with multiple courses and moods. They will complement a wide array of plates, fish, fowl, vegetable or Tofurky - and they are great additions to any holiday table, so feel free to save them for December if you’d like. Happy Thanksgiving and Bon Appetit! Starting at top: the Trentino-Alto Adige wine region, sits just below the Austrian border and is home to what is often referred to as “the most beautiful mountains in the world”, the snow-capped Dolomites, a collection of breath-taking peaks composed largely of porphyry rock walls. Also known also as Südtirol, due to its bicultural Italian-Austrian heritage, Trentino-Alto Adige, is an eclectic mix of Austrian accuracy and Italian spirit. Trento refers to the southern part of the region, and its capital is Trentino (the ancient Roman Tridentum), while Alto Adige identifies the northern territory that includes the higher (alto) part of the Adige River. The topography of the region’s winegrowing area is like a complex puzzle. Vineyards are planted with different exposures and varying elevations, have changing microclimates, and are composed of some of the most varied soil types ranging from volcanic porphyry, to weathered primitive rock soils composed of quartz and mica, to limestone and dolomite, to sandy marl. Much of the winemaking here is done via communes, and this month we are featuring a bottling from the youngest, Cascina Valle Isarco, which is located in the valley that runs alongside the river of the same name. Schiava, which means “slave” in Italian, is the primary red grape in the area, and has many other names: it is also called Vernatsch (which is a Tyrolean word derived from vernacular, meaning native or indigenous) and also Trollilnger (which is a corruption of 'Tyrolinger,' meaning 'from the Tyrol’.) Light, fresh and aromatic, Schiava is characterized by notes of red berry, almond, violets and a delicate earth and minerality. Very versatile with food, its piquant fruit and softly spicy finish will even enliven your leftovers. Nine hundred kilometers to the south lies Campania, the ‘shin' of Italy's boot, anchored by its capital, Naples. Its name comes from Campania felix, a Latin phrase roughly meaning 'happy land’ or ‘fertile countryside', and the region is indeed celebrated for its gastronomy, music and architecture. It is also ancient enough to encompass some of the world’s most famous ruins at Pompeii, Herculaneum, Paestum, and Veli. The wine culture is one of Italy’s oldest as well; Campania has many indigenous grapes almost unknown elsewhere, and our white selection this month is one such varietal, Greco di Tufo. It is grown in Irpinia, the most renowned wine-producing area in the region, which is the historical name of the province of Avellino. The best versions, like Guido Marsella’s evince great orchard fruit and white flowers notes with a hint of smoke and mineral backbone. It spends an unusually long time aging on the lees and in bottle before release, which gives it the weight and texture to support, but not overwhelm, pretty much anything on your plate this holiday. Cheers, The PlumpJack Wine and Spirits Team Guido Marsella Greco di Tufo Region / Country of Origin: Campania, Italy About the winery: Guido Marsella founded the winery that bears his name in 1995, after a previous career in his family’s construction in the Campania area. His initial intent was to produce truly world class white wines from the local Fiano grape. Today Guido is considered one of the pioneers of the rediscovery and development of the Fiano grape, and has expanded his operations to elevate the quality of other local varietals. In 2007, he began working a parcel of land called Poggi Reali, located near Beneventano in the Greco di Tufo DOCG. The vines there are 20-30 years old, grown over Tuffa Clay and planted in high density at 500 meters above sea level. He produces Falanghina and Greco di Tufo bottlings from this vineyard. About the winemaking: All farming is done with organic practices, both on his estate owned vineyards and those that he farms just north east of his estate in the Greco di Tufo DOCG. Harvesting typically takes place a bit later here than at many other estates in the region, because Guido prefers the fruit to be at the peak of ripeness and in some cases borderline overripe. All harvests are carried out by hand to ensure only high quality fruit is being brought back to the winery. All of Guido’s wines are fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel containers, with some fine lees contact. The wine spends 12 months in tank before being bottled and then aged a further year in bottle at the winery before release. Tasting Notes: Yellow apple and white flower on nose, with a great smoke-wreathed saline minerality. Richly textured and wonderful depth of flavor. Winemaker: Guido Marsella Price: $27 btl/$291.60 case Suggested Food Pairing: Green beans and tomatoes, Brussel Sprouts with Bacon Cantina Valle Isarco Schiava Alto Adige DOC 2020 Region / Country of Origin: Valle Isarco, Alto Adige, Italy About the Winery: The youngest winery of note in Alto Adige, Cantina Valle Isarco was founded in 1961 at Maso Reinthaler. Unfortunately the initial winery burnt down in 1962 and was then replaced by a new modern winery in 1975. The 135 members benefit from altitudes ranging from 300m – 1000m, excellent soils and climate for producing expressive wines with wonderful individual varietal character. For the most part, as a result of the steep slopes on which the vineyards lie, picking is almost entirely done by hand. About the winemaking: Grown on very deep alluvial soils with porphyritic sediment. Traditional maceration on the skins in controlled temperature conditions, malolactic fermentation and aging on fine lees in stainless steel vat. Tasting Notes: Aromas of red berries with notes of almonds, herbs and violets are followed by flavors of raspberry, strawberry and cherry, leading to a refreshing bitter almond – and sometimes slightly spicy – finish. Winemaker: Hannes Munter Price: $22 bottle / $237.60 case Suggested Food Pairing: Turkey, cranberry sauce, carrots and green beans, but also shrimp, tofu and spicy Asian cuisine.
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