Friuli is arguably Italy’s most diverse, unpredictable and widescreen wine region. Bordering Austria to north, Slovenia to the east, Veneto to the west and facing the Adriatic Sea to the south, Friuli-Venezia Giulia (henceforth abbreviated as Friuli) is the hinge that connects Italian peninsula with the Eastern Europe and Asia. Since antiquity, it has been a highly contested crossroads of cultures, languages, religions and ethnicities. The city of Trieste in particular has spent centuries as one of Europe’s busiest entrepôts, whether as part of the Roman, Holy Roman, Austrian, French, and Austro-Hungarian empire(s), a free-standing Free City or, finally, Italy. (And that’s a partial list.)
All this international intrigue has created a sui generis wine scene populated by stranded expats like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc, obscure local varietals, famous grapes with different accents (Ramato style Pinot Grigio) and Peter Lorre-type growths of uncertain origin/motivation. This month we are tilting towards the former, but ultimately, the thrill of any bottle that says “Friuli” on it is that you can still never be quite sure where it’s coming from.
In this particular case the answer, at least initially, is France. Indeed, Cabernet Franc is a varietal that’s pretty frank with regard to its Gallic origins. One of the blending grapes in red Bordeaux (it is in fact a parent grape to three others: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carménère), Cab Franc is perhaps most associated now with the Loire Valley, where it is vinified solo in prestigious appellations like Chinon, Bourgeil and Saumur-Champigny.
Though unclear when exactly the grape first arrived in Italy, it was sometime during the Napoleonic era apparently, which means it has been grown there for a couple centuries at least. Today, Italy is the 2nd largest producer of Cabernet Franc in the world after France, and most of that shows up in Super Tuscans (alongside Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) or mostly on its own in Friuli.
And on its own, Cabernet Franc is one of the most distinctive and easily recognizable red wines in the world. Its calling card tends to be herbal and savory aromas on the nose (‘bell pepper’ is the most common note) that reflect the presence of aromatic compounds called Methoxypyrazines (colloquially known as pyrazines) on the skins. Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon both feature this element as well and, along with imparting aromas to the finished wine, pyrazines provide a natural defense against pests for the plants themselves - one reason why Cab Franc is grown in so many places.
Anyway, the old vine bottling from Ferlat (‘Sessanta’, which is Italian ‘sixty is a reference to the vineyard, planted in 1960, that supplies the grapes) with which we are ending the year, is one of the best I’ve come across: structured, elegant and complex, revealing layers on the nose and palate the longer it breathes. It is also, like most decent Cab Francs, very good and versatile with food; everything from tomato and vinegar (BBQ) based dishes to herby and/or earthy flavors to grilled meats and vegetables to aged rich cheeses should work well with it.
Salute!
Alan Hicks
Wine Buyer, PlumpJack Noe Valley
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Ferlat Sessanta Cabernet Franc 2018 |
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Region: Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy |
About the Winery: Founded in 1950, this winery is located in the eastern region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, within the renowned Friuli Isonzo DOC. Today, the estate is led by two ambitious young Friulian winemakers, Moreno and Federica, who have embraced the winery’s legacy while striving to elevate it to new heights. The estate spans 7 hectares of organically farmed vineyards, dedicated to both native varietals such as Pinot Grigio and Friulano, as well as international varieties like Cabernet Franc. The winery’s philosophy is centered on crafting high-quality wines with distinct personality, where both the terroir and varietal character remain unmistakable. Balancing modern winemaking techniques with deep respect for nature and tradition, Moreno and Federica are committed to producing wines that honor their origins. Their approach reflects the essence of Friuli—precision, authenticity, and an unwavering connection to the land. About the Winemaking: Ferlat's philosophy in the vineyard is simple: minimize environmental impact while enhancing biodiversity. Every decision, from cultivation to harvest, is guided by respect for the land. Their vineyards are certified organic, meaning no herbicides are used. Instead, they rely on cover crops, primarily wild herbs that develop spontaneously, to maintain soil health and balance. Rather than depleting the land, they till mulch and organic compounds back into the soil after mowing, enriching biodiversity and sustaining vine vitality. Moreno and Federica refer to synthetic chemicals as “bandits”, limiting treatments to only copper and sulfur when necessary. Only the best grapes from the oldest vines are chosen for Sessanta. The grapes are destemmed, pressed, and put into concrete tanks for fermentation. Only manual punching down is carried out several times a day for the entire maceration period, which lasts an average of 40 days. The Sessanta ages for at least 24 months in barrel and at least 24 months in bottle. Tasting Notes: On the nose, vivid aromas of cherry and currant, alongside classic Cab Franc herb and bell pepper accents. Tobacco and licorice emerge with aeration. On the palate, it offers remarkable complexity, with flavors of black fruits, spices, elegant tannins and a long finish. |
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Winemaker: Moreno Ferlat and Federica Tabacchi |
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Price per bottle / Price per case $72.99 / $788.30 |
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Suggested Food Pairing: mushroom risottos, lentil stews, grilled vegetables, grilled meats, aged cheeses. |
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Cinnamon Spiced Pork Ragu With Tagliatelle
Ingredients
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400 g tagliatelle (14 oz) You can also use pasta tubes or other pasta ribbons
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400 g pork tenderloin (14 oz) or shoulder
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1 onion peeled and finely chopped
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30 g butter (1oz)
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1 bunch herbs (marjoram, rosemary, thyme, sage, bay leaf) . I used fresh herbs except marjoram. Y
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½ glass white wine
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2 eggs
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45 g Montasio or Parmigiano grated
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salt for pasta and to taste
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black pepper to taste
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1 teaspoon cinnamon powder
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2-3 cloves or 1 teaspoon clove powder
Instructions
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Cut the meat into small pieces and brown it in melted butter in a deep frying pan or iron skillet.
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Stir, then lower the heat, add salt, pepper, cloves and cinnamon. Pour in the wine and continue cooking.
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Peel and finely chop the onion. Wash and chop the herbs (if fresh) except the bay leaf.
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Reduce some of the liquid over a moderate heat then add the finely chopped onion and the bunch of aromatic herbs, cover and cook, slowly and for about 45 minutes to one hour.
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Put a pot of water onto boil for the pasta. Add salt once it starts to boil and bring to the boil again. Cook the pasta al dente according to the instructions on the packet.
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Break the eggs into a bowl and beat with a pinch of salt.
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Drain the pasta and add it to the pan with the meat sauce, mix together well . Add the beaten egg a little at a time whilst stirring continuously until all the pasta is coated with the eggs and sauce.
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Serve immediately with the grated cheese.
