OFF THE BEATEN PATH

     While most are familiar with rosé from the Provence region of France, we know rosés are produced all over the world in a range of styles from fuller-bodied, almost light reds, to pale vin gris that drink more like white wines.  This month we have a pair of rosés from regions you don’t see too often that show the range of what rosé can be. Vibrant pink and full of flavor, these rosés are sure to please your palate!

     The first selection is from the Marche region of Italy, which has a long but sometimes overlooked wine history. Starting with the Picenes, an Italic tribe inhabiting the Marche, vines were cultivated as early as the 9th century BCE. Wine growing flourished under Roman rule, and after the fall of Rome, monasteries preserved winemaking traditions. Benedictine and Cistercian monks cultivated vineyards, often linked to local abbeys and hill towns. In the Renaissance era, the Marche remained somewhat rural and isolated compared to Tuscany or Piedmont, so wines were largely consumed locally rather than achieving widespread fame. Unfortunately, Phylloxera devastated Marche’s vineyards in the late 19th century, but replanting occurred slowly, with many focusing on quantity over quality. Today, Marche balances small artisanal estates with cooperatives, producing a mix of traditional and modern styles. Sustainability and organic viticulture are increasingly important.

     The Marche region is located on the other side of the Apennine Mountains from Tuscany and Umbria, and is lined with sandy beaches along the Adriatic Sea facing Croatia. The combination of rolling hills and a cooling ocean breeze contributes to the structure of the bright but balanced whites the region is known for.  The reds from the region are largely Sangiovese, the local Lacrima grape, and Montepulciano. However, this Marche rosé features Grenache, which was planted as part of an expansion in 2003 by the current winery owners, Paolo and Elisetta Capriotti, to complement the winery's traditional local varieties. 

     Our second rosé is coming all the way from Armenia, which, as a wine region, is matched only by Georgia in its history, with the oldest facilities uncovered in the region dating back over 6100 years. It has been known since antiquity for the quality of its goods (like wine, metals, and textiles), as noted by such ancient scholars as Herodotus, Strabo, and Xenophon, who were among the most important writers of the ancient world. Herodotus wrote of Armenian wine flowing down the Euphrates to Babylon; Xenophon described drinking from clay jars in village homes during his march through the region; and Strabo praised the fertile vineyards that shaped its economy. From antiquity to today, Armenia’s wines have been recognized as a mark of quality, deeply rooted in one of the world’s oldest winemaking traditions.

     Armenia is a mountainous landlocked country nestled in between Georgia, Iran, Azerbaijan, and Turkey. Its high-altitude vineyards, volcanic soils, and abundance of native grapes create a truly distinctive terroir. It has a Continental climate with hot, dry summers and cold winters, as well as large diurnal temperature shifts (warm days, cool nights) that help grapes retain acidity and aromatic complexity. There is abundant sunshine (over 300 days a year in many regions) which ensures full ripening, and the low humidity and wind reduce disease pressure, making organic viticulture highly feasible. Areni Noir, which is the grape variety of the rosé being featured, is the country’s flagship red grape, and it produces elegant, age-worthy wines with cherry, pomegranate, and spice notes.

Think Pink!

Justin Malesheetz- Wine Buyer Fillmore


 

2024 Poderi San Lazzaro Elise Marche Rosato

Region/Country of Origin: Marche, Italy

About the Winery: Poderi San Lazzaro traces back to Lorenzo Capriotti's acquisition of a farm nestled in the hills near Offida. This site, situated 290 meters above sea level, proved to be an ideal spot for growing grapes, located just 9 miles from the shores of the Adriatic Sea and 15 miles from the Apennine mountains. Lorenzo initiated the venture by cultivating vineyards filled with Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Passerina grape varieties. In 2003, Paolo Capriotti and his wife Elisetta assumed control of the farm and winery. The estate, now under organic cultivation, spans 9.5 hectares with ages ranging from 15 to 60 years, complemented by 2 hectares of olive groves and an additional 2 hectares of wooded land.

About the Winemaking: 80% Grenache and 20% Sangiovese fermented in temperature cold tanks and aged in stainless steel

Tasting Notes: A vivid pale crimson in the glass with notes of ripe red cherry.  Dry with balanced acidity and a fuller body, the juicy cherry and strawberry flavors glide through the long finish.

Winemaker: Paolo Capriotti

Price: $21.99 btl/  $237.50

Suggested food pairing:

Bruschetta topped with tomato, garlic and basil, pasta with cheese or cream sauce, egg dishes, leafy salads with fall fruits, salmon dishes, poultry, spicy Asian dishes and soft cheeses like Camembert or Brie


2023 Voskevaz Areni Rosé

Region/Country of Origin:  Aragatsotn, Armenia

About the Winery: Originally founded in 1932 and one of the only wineries allowed to work through Soviet rule, the Voskevaz Winery was has been run by Davit Hovhannisyan since 1997, who has recently been joined by his brothers, artist and architect Gagik Oganesyan and metalworker Armen Oganesyan. They focus on traditional indigenous varietals like Areni Noir, Haghtanak, and Voskehat and are one of the few producers in the region harvesting fruit from ancient bush trained vines ranging from 80 to 300 years of age. 

About the Winemaking: 100% Areni Noir from 80 to 100 year old vines 1600 meters above sea level cold pressed before fermentation and aging in stainless steel tanks.

Tasting Notes: Pale salmon with a nose of cherry blossom, white peach, tangerine and strawberry. Medium bodied and fresh, with bright ruby grapefruit, stone fruit, fresh strawberry, and cherry flavors with a dry finish reminiscent of fresh citrus.

Winemaker: David Hovhannisyan

Price: $20.99 btl/$226.69 case

Suggested Food Pairing: 

Raw fish anti-pasti, 

Light pasta dishes with vegetables or shrimp, 

Chicken Khorovats,

Dolmas.

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