J & J Eger Kekfrankos 2016
Dr. Stumpf dry farms approximately 15 hectares of vines on the south facing hill of Eged. Split between 2 vineyards with very similar conditions, Sik Dülö and Eged-Hegy Dülö (Eged Hill Vineyard) they produce strikingly complementary grapes. Both are on a base of almost pure limestone on a 20% grade and perfectly situated about half way up the hill. Already proven in the limestone rich soils of Burgundy, the middle of the hill is the best. The top is deficient in nutrients and water and the bottom is an excess of both. Vine age averages 40+ years.
Geared toward minimal intervention, the cellar is very traditional. Dug into the soft but sturdy volcanic tuffa, J&J joins the labyrinth of barrel filled caves that crisscross below the streets of Eger. Cool and damp with barely any temperature fluctuation, it’s an ideal environment for fermentation and elevage. The 2009 100% Kékfrankos was fermented with native yeast in large local Hungarian Oak fermenters with manual cap management. Aged in mostly large 500L barrels (3/4 new) allowed for very slow oxidation and a more nuanced influence of oak. After an average of 20 months in barrel and kept in separate lots until the final blend, racking was the main means of clarification. All wines were bottled unfiltered and stored for a minimum of 1 year before release.
By narrowing down the limestone rich parcels (higher extract, more body) and the more volcanic parcels (higher acidity and less body) a balance is found. 2016 is a cool vintage to begin with, so this is an acid driven vintage (%12.5) with enough grip to balance, but not nearly as big as the 2015 (%14). Some roadside Pacalpörkölt (fatty tripe stew) traditionally pairs with the wine.