The little town of Matelica is in the Marche region, just east of Umbria. This region produces fine, mineral wine from the Verdicchio grape. It is also grown (with rather different results) around the town of Jesi, nearer Ancona and the Adriatic. Acid is a word that is mostly avoided when writing about wine (see Glossary), but the acidity of this wine is what makes it so lively and distinctive, and so good with food.