One centers on its many large, legendary bodegas, whose massive back-stocks of aged/aging wine are unrivaled in the wine world. Another spotlights the different categories of Rioja wine (Crianza; Reserva; Gran Reserva), which are defined by the length of time each spends in wood barrels and bottle before its release. What’s less talked about, but no less important, is the soil and climate of Rioja, how it varies, and how it influences the character of its Tempranillo-based reds. In other great wine regions, it’s all about the positioning and composition of the vineyards, and that is where Luberri’s Florentino Martínez Monje would like to steer the Rioja conversation. Today’s wine is a single-vineyard bottling comprised of 100% Tempranillo grown on bedrock. That it was aged 12 months in French and American oak barrels—and designated Crianza, meaning two years of pre-release aging in total—is a secondary consideration. “Biga” is about vineyard and variety first, and its invigorating mix of fruit and soil character is a welcome departure from the sweet, oak-slathered styles that have largely defined “modern” Rioja. It is an especially impressive achievement when you consider its price, which doesn’t come close to reflecting its quality. You’ll be very happy to have a case (or more) of this around the house, I can assure you of that!