Club Corner
Q2 2024 Red Rogues Club- Pinot Noir from the Southern Hemisphere
Pinot Noir from the Southern Hemisphere “Pinot Noir” derives from the French words “pine” and “black,” describing the grape’s tight, pine cone-like clusters and dark color. Studies show that Pinot Noir is a very old variety, with origins dating back to the first century AD. It’s believed that the Romans brought the grape with them as they expanded their empire. Pinot Noir is most famously tied to Burgundy, France, where for the better part of a millennium, it has been the source of some of the region's top wines. Even today, the iconic Grand Cru vineyards of the Côte d'Or are synonymous with greatness. The top three highest producing Pinot Noir countries are France, United States and Germany. However, you can find Pinot Noir planted in over 25 different countries, making Pinot Noir a truly internationally acclaimed grape variety. Pinot Noir is known for its delicate flavors and aromas, which can include notes of red fruit, cherries, and earthy spices. Its flavor and character can be heavily influenced by the terroir in which it is grown, resulting in a wide range of wine styles. This quarter, we decided to feature three Pinot Noirs from the Southern Hemisphere, in the hope of introducing you to a full range of Pinot Noir profiles. The Pinot Noir grape variety has been in Australia since the early 1800s, when it was brought in by John McArthur in 1817 and James Busby in the 1830s. However, it took time for the grape to find success, and it wasn't until the 1920s that Australian winemaker Maurice O'Shea planted Pinot Noir vines in the Hunter Valley. Today, Pinot Noir is thriving in Australia's cooler regions, such as Tasmania, Yarra Valley, and the Adelaide Hills, as well as in warmer inland regions. Australian Pinot Noir is described as delicate and food-friendly, with flavors of cherries and red berries. It's often used in sparkling wines, but can also be used to make red table wines. Pinot Noir grapes were first planted in New Zealand in 1819 in the far north of the North Island, but there's no written evidence of this until 1855. Some of the original vines may have come from cuttings from Port Jackson, Australia. In 1889, Mission Vineyards planted Pinot Noir grapes in Hawkes Bay, and William Beetham planted them in Wairarapa. Interest in Pinot Noir increased again in the 1970s, when Nick Nobilo of Nobilo Wines produced New Zealand's first commercial Pinot Noir since the 1800s in 1973. Other regions also began experimenting with Pinot Noir, including Martinborough in 1979 and Central Otago in 1987. Today, Pinot Noir is New Zealand's second most planted grape variety, after Sauvignon Blanc, and is often associated with the country's finest wines. One of the reasons New Zealand Pinot Noir is considered premium quality is the "Abel" clone, which is said to have originated from a cutting taken from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti vineyards in Burgundy. A tourist allegedly smuggled the cutting into New Zealand in a gumboot and it was intercepted by Malcolm Abel, a local winemaker and customs officer, at Auckland airport. Abel sent the vine to the government's viticultural research center for processing and then planted the first cuttings. The Abel clone is the foundation for many of New Zealand's most sought-after Pinot Noirs. Pinot Noir's history in Argentina is relatively short, with the first plantings taking place in the 1960s. The grapes were primarily used to make sparkling wines, and by the 1950s, more than 4,000 acres in Patagonia were planted with Pinot Noir. However, by 2000, that number had dropped to less than 500 acres. Piero Incisa della Rocchetta of Bodega Chacra helped put Argentina on the map for Pinot Noir in the early 2000s by using grapes from an old vineyard in Patagonia. This inspired other producers to look for old vineyards or clones that would work better in Argentina's terroirs, and to identify regions where Pinot Noir would thrive. Today, Pinot Noir is grown in more regions of Argentina than Malbec, and the country's surface area under vine with Pinot Noir has almost doubled in the last two decades. Cheers! Carrie Upson-General Manager and Wine Buyer Burn Cottage “Moonlight Race” Pinot Noir Region / Country of Origin: Central Otago, New Zealand About the winery: Burn Cottage is a 28-hectare vineyard, farm, and estate in the foothills of the Pisa range in Central Otago, New Zealand. The vineyard is owned by husband and wife Marquis & Dianne Sauvage, who purchased the unplanted property in 2002. It had been grazed by sheep for as long as can currently be remembered. There were, and are, no immediate vineyard neighbors. The site is quite coveted in the region, for it is sheltered from both northerly and southerly winds by large hills and forms a beautiful, protected bowl much like a modern amphitheater. It is a phenomenal site for Pinot Noir; with warm summers and cold winters, there is plenty of sunshine with particularly long warm days through the growing season and cool nights that help achieve ripeness while retaining good acidity. About the Vineyards: Like Ted’s property at Littorai, Burn Cottage is a fully functional farm, with 10 hectares under vine and the rest of the land devoted to cattle, chickens, beehives, olive groves, and other native species of New Zealand plants, bushes, and trees. They also produce their own compost and grow many of the preparations needed for biodynamic farming. At Burn Cottage, they believe that biodiversity is the cornerstone of healthy farming – and that great wines are not made from fruit but are born of the soils which nurture the vines and then made with minimal intervention. Tasting Notes: “The 2022 Moonlight Race Pinot Noir is supple and spicy, with pink peppercorn, cherry blossom, red apple skins, a hint of blond tobacco and white pepper. The wine is light in the glass (but vibrant) and the tannins suit it—they are totally fresh and fine—finely milled and like poudre. Superb, silky, totally satisfying and enlivening.” 94 Points WA Winemaker: Claire Mulholland Price per bottle / Price per case: $46.99 btl/ $507.49 case Suggested Food Pairing: Game birds such as quail, turkey and duck, Filet of New Zealand salmon, Mushroom risotto, Roast pork with cherry gastrique Moorooduc Estate Pinot Noir 2018 Region / Country of Origin: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia About the winery: Established in 1982 by Richard and Jill McIntyre, Moorooduc Estate is a small, family run wine business that has developed an enviable reputation for complex and food friendly wines. Moorooduc Estate's philosophy in everything they do is to make the most of top quality ingredients. Intensive, hands-on care in the vineyard, with minimal use of chemicals, produces the best possible fruit for their wines. Wild yeast ferments and minimal intervention winemaking, with a nod to traditional Burgundian techniques, allow the wines to express their site specificity, or terroir. Similarly, they aim to source ingredients for the food they serve that are seasonal, local and organic. About the winemaking: All the wines are made on-site in the Rammed Earth Winery. From a very modest 20 tonne winery set up in 1987, they now have a more sophisticated facility with a small but high-quality Bucher press and an excellent Vaslin – Bucher destemmer. Since 2006 they have had the facility to chill fruit in a refrigerated shipping container which has been particularly beneficial with the warmer climate and earlier vintages we have been experiencing over recent years. In the winery, the emphasis is on gentle winemaking methods with some quality control where they believe this is important. Tasting Notes: “Mornington Peninsula is synonymous with Pinot and Moorooduc is one of the region’s top producers. The color of rose petals and bricks, the ’18 vintage is in a lovely place. It’s aromatic and expressive, with potpourri-like aromas of dried red berries, crushed flower petals and spice that knit seamlessly together. They’re underpinned by earthy, autumnal nuances. The ethereal palate comes with a beautiful tang of acidity. It’s framed by ultra-fine, chiseled tannins, which leave room for the delicate red fruit, floral and spice flavors that linger on the lengthy finish.” 94 Points WE Winemaker: Dr. Richard McIntyre Price per bottle / Price per case: $39.99 btl/ $431.89 case Suggested Food Pairing: Slow cooked duck marylands with beetroot and potato mash, Eggplant parmesan, Baked brie with rosemary, Roast lamb Chacra “Barda” Pinot Noir Region / Country of Origin: Patagonia, Argentina About the winery: Bodega Chacra is located in the Rio Negro Valley of northern Patagonia, 620 miles south of Buenos Aires, 1,240 miles north of Tierra del Fuego, and roughly equidistant west to east from the Andes Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. The property's situation in the arid central Argentine desert is tempered by the confluence of the Neuquen and Limay Rivers, both of which flow from the Andes and converge in the Rio Negro, which in turn flows into the Atlantic. The Rio Negro Valley itself is a glacial bed 15.5 miles wide, stretching 310 miles along the river's banks at an elevation of 750 feet above sea level. The valley is irrigated by a network of channels excavated in the late 1820s by British colonists who observed the abundant snow melt flowing from the Andes and created an oasis in the middle of the desert. About the Winemaking: 24% in french oak barrels, (5% new), 41% in concrete tanks and 35% in stainless steel tanks for 8 months. Tasting Notes: Pure, minerally and powerful, with concentrated flavors of red plum and dried raspberry, loaded with powerful meaty notes. Sandalwood accents linger on the finish, showing caressing tannins. “Acidic red berries, fresh raspberries, chalk and a hint of herbal freshness. Crunchy and fresh, full of verve. Transparent and nimble with soft, round tannins and a bright, linear finish.” 93 JS Winemaker: Piero Incisa della Rocchetta Price per bottle / Price per case: $37.99 btl/$410.29 case Suggested Food Pairing: A perfect pairing for fish, salads and omelets
Learn moreSeptember '23 Wine of the Month Club
URUGUAY How much do you know about Uruguay? Without consulting outside sources, we could think of 4 things: it is a small country in South America dwarfed by its giant neighbors Argentina and Brazil; it frequently punches above its weight in World Cup soccer; it was the birthplace and home of the great and mercurial musician Eduardo Mateo (check him out sometime); and it is an increasingly exciting and dynamic source of interesting wine. A little additional research fills in the picture a little bit. Uruguay is, in fact, the second smallest country in South America (after Suriname) by area; it hosted, and won, the inaugural World Cup in 1930; it is the birthplace of the Tango, and; shares latitude with Argentina, Chile South Africa, Australia and New Zealand - all well established stops on the global wine circuit. Uruguay also shares a general viticulture timeline with its continental neighbors, despite its climatic conditions being quite different. While the earliest records of winemaking come from the Spanish Jesuits in the early 18th century, the modern industry didn't really take wing until an influx of European immigrants in the 19th century. Unlike the largely arid conditions of Argentina’s and Chile’s wine regions, Uruguay has a humid coastal climate where more than 39 inches (1,000mm) of rain a year is the norm. Altitude doesn’t play any part in Uruguayan viticulture either, with most vineyards being less than 500 ft (150m) above sea level, and the highest hill in Uruguay, Cerro Catedral, only scraping 1,683ft (513m) and casting no such rain shadow as found near the Andes. Even the coastal regions of Chile, with their cool Pacific influence, are vastly different from the mild Atlantic climate of Uruguay. Weather-wise, it makes more sense to associate the country with Bordeaux or even Galicia, which is why Uruguay has sometimes been called “a piece of the Old World in The New World.” But while Uruguay’s climate and topography don’t vary much across the breadth of its borders, there are apparently 99 different types of soil in the country, including some of the oldest on earth, deriving from the ancient supercontinent of Pangea. This gives local winemakers a lot to play with before we even talk about the grapes. But speaking of grapes, Uruguay has essentially cornered the market on one particular varietal; the celebrated Tannat. Tannat was first introduced into Uruguay in 1870 by Basque immigrants, becoming “the national grape”. Cheers, The Plumpjack Team Viña Progreso “Overground” Tannat Region / Country of Origin: Progreso, Canelones, Uruguay About the winemaker: Viña Progreso is a project from 4th generation winemaker Gabriel Pisano. Gabriel was born in the vineyard and his personality is that of an explorer. After studying oenology at Uruguayan Vine & Wine School, Gabriel traveled the world learning to make wine with world famous winemakers in the famed regions of Sonoma, California; Priorat, Spain; and Apalta, Chile. Upon his return to Uruguay, Gabriel brought with him new winemaking techniques and a love for the world’s varietals. Uruguay is famous for a varietal called Tannat, which is a bold and structured wine that pairs perfectly with the common Asado. While Gabriel loves this grape and its diversity, he is also experimenting with other varietals. About the winemaking: Cold macerated occurs at 10º-12º Celsius in stainless steel tanks during 4-6 days to obtain fruity aromas and flavors. After pressing, settling, and racking the wine is moved to French and American oak barrels for aging and maturation. Malolactic fermentation occurs in the next 15 to 30 days. The wines are aged in second use barrels for a period of about 5 to 7 months. Tasting Notes: An intense purple color, the Overground Tannat has complex yet delicate aromas of mushroom and red fruits, great density in the mouth and an extra-long and robust taste of jammy wild fruits. Vanilla spice from new barrels makes for a surprisingly complex red wine with a generous and long finish. “This well-balanced wine delivers red plus and tobacco accented but a light note of dried herbs. Silky tannins and moderate acidity provide a good structure. It’s full bodied and flavorful and has a lasting finish.” 91 Points Wine Enthusiast. Winemaker: Gabriel Pisano Price: $22.99 bottle/ $248.29 case Suggested Food Pairing: Oven roasted red meats, Meat casseroles, Creole stew, Pasta with strong sauces, Ham and sausages, Sharp, hard cheeses. Bodega Garzón Single Vineyard Albariño 2022 Region / Country of Origin: Maldonado, Uruguay About the Winery: When Argentine oil magnate Alejandro Bulgheroni and his wife Bettina discovered Garzón, they had a family dream come true: to have the most emblematic winery of modern viticulture in Uruguay and premium wines with an intense personality and deep sense of belonging to the land. With the advice of international enologist Alberto Antonini, they apply their philosophy focused on producing wines that are a true expression of their origins. Experts on viticulture, environmental care, gastronomy, hospitality and tourism complete a team committed to this unprecedented project. Located eleven miles from the Atlantic Ocean, their estate has more than 1,000 small vineyard blocks covering its hillside slopes, which benefit from varying microclimates, different levels of humidity, and an intense canopy management. These factors allow the vines to develop with maximum exposure to the sun providing rich, expressive fruit. The vineyards are surrounded by lush forests, rocky soils, granite boulders, and naturally occurring palm trees. The uniqueness of this vineyard lies in its southern orientation, assuring shelter from the intense sunlight and direct exposure to the ocean breezes. About the winemaking: Located over natural terraces and built into the hills, the winery presents a staggering design that uses a gravity fed system to produce fine wines of the utmost quality. Their facilities maximize the use of energy resources while generating wind and photovoltaic energy. They have 3 fermentation areas and one aging area with stainless steel containers, epoxy-free concrete tanks and oak truncated cone shaped vats that allow the wines to express the character of the terroir. 8 months on the lees 100% in cement tanks. Tasting Notes: A very elegant pale yellow this Albariño has a fresh and vibrant nose that reminds us of tropical fruit with subtle citrus and floral notes. In the mouth, we find a round and fresh body with a saline and mineral combination that provides a marked notion of terroir. Winemaker: Alberto Antonini; winemaker Germán Bruzzone; oenologist $26.99 bottle / $291.49 Suggested Food Pairing: Cod with cockles Citrus prawn salad Traditional grilled seafood with warm mango salad and beans Peruvian ceviche Fresh tuna salad Delightfully well suited to Asian food
Learn more
March 2022 Wine of the Month Club
South America Keeping up with South American wine takes some effort these days. While budget Malbecs and Carmeneres will hopefully continue to line grocery store shelves, the viticultural trends and tensions playing out over this gigantic continent generate a dynamism that goes much deeper. This month we are featuring two outstanding examples of recent Latin American winemaking from families in Chile and Argentina whose roots in their respective regions date back to the 19th century. Both embody the interplay between tradition and innovation that makes the South America such a vital and ever evolving wine destination. Winemaking in the Americas initially followed conquest and conversion. The first grapes and vines were brought by Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century, and planted and grown widely to ensure a steady supply of sacramental wine for Mass. Viticulture took to the continent so successfully that wine producers in Spain convinced King Philip II to restrict American production, and in 1595 the Council of the Indies imposed limits on wine production and vine cultivation. This proved hard to enforce and despite Phillip’s successors repeating the restrictions throughout the 17th century, local winemaking continued, albeit in diminished form. When the restrictions were finally lifted for good in the early colonial period, European wines flooded the market and overwhelmed the local product. It wasn’t until the 20th century that the modern South American wine industry, buoyed by the influx of French grapes flourishing in the Phylloxera-free soil of Argentina and Chile, began to export significant amounts of product. This was how the former became the largest producer of Malbec (known as Cot in France) and the latter Carmenere (another French grape originally from Bordeaux.) Today, Argentina and Chile are the fifth and ninth largest contributors, respectively, to the 6.8 billion gallons of wine produced worldwide every year. The most important Argentine wine region is Mendoza, located in the eastern foothills of the Andes and featuring some of the highest altitude vineyards in the world. Mendoza has 167,704 hectares (414,405 acres) of vineyards – more than the regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Napa Valley combined – and accounts for 70% of the country’s wine production. Within the Mendoza appellation there are three distinct sub-appellations that exhibit extraordinary diversity in soil quality, altitude, and climate: Maipu Valley, Lujan de Cuyo, and Uco Valley. Our red selection this month comes from Maipu, which features some of the oldest vines in Argentina and is renowned for its powerful and elegant Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. From Mendoza, it’s just an hour’s flight over the mountains to Santiago, Chile, the capital city and the center of its wine world. Known as a winemaker's paradise, Chile has a perfect climate for growing vines, abundant water from melting snow, and a virtually pest and disease-free environment. The climate is very hot and dry in the north, and colder and wetter in the south. The proximity to the Andes creates a huge variation between daytime and nighttime temperatures, which is vital for the acidity levels of grapes. The dryness also makes it a natural hub for organic, biodynamic, and sustainable wine production; 75 percent of all exported Chilean wine is sustainably produced. The largest and oldest wine region is the Maule Valley, 250 miles from the capital and home to our white wine this month, a light skinned variant of the Pais grape (also known as Mission in California) which was the first widely planted wine varietal on the continent. Salud! The PlumpJack Wine Team 2018 Famiglia Mosso Malbec Region / Country of Origin: Mendoza, Argentina About the vineyards: Francesco Mosso arrived in Argentina from Turin, Italy, in 1860, leading a Piedmontese immigrant colony. The famiglia eventually settled in Mendoza, where they became devoted to viticulture. In 1909 the brothers Juan Bautista Mosso and Antonio Mosso finally built their own winery in Luján de Cuyo, with production capacity of five million liters. In 2002 Ernesto Mosso and Pablo Mosso, Juan Bautista and Antonio’s respective great-grandchildren, followed the family tradition and began producing wines in a winery located in Chacras de Coria. Their flagship wine is Malbec produced from the family’s old vines grown in Lunlunta. The vineyards are located 2,821 feet above sea level. About the winemaking: Light crushing, classic temperature-controlled fermentation during 7 days, using selected yeast. Pump-over and delestage during extended maceration of 20 days. 8 month: 30% volume in French oak first use and 70% volume in American oak second use. Suggested cellaring 5 years. Tasting Notes: Alluring color showing redish purple hues. Intense and complex aromas of red fruits, which harmonize with vanilla and mocha with reminiscence of fresh plums. Full bodied in mouth, its flavors lead to a polished and lingering finish. Winemaker: Ruben Sfragara Price: $27 bottle/ $291.60 case Suggested Food Pairing: Pairs well with a wide range of foods from beef and pork to game birds or even meat-based pastas and mature cheese 2020 J. Bouchon Pais Salvaje Blanco Region / Country of Origin: Maule Valley, Chile About the Winery: Bouchon Family Wines began in the late 19th century when young viticulturist Emile Bouchon left Bordeaux, France for Chile. Today, Julio Bouchon and his children carry on their 4th generation family winemaking tradition in the Maule Valley. With their in-depth soil research and innovative winemaking, Bouchon is preserving the historic character of the Maule Valley with distinctive, terroir-driven wines. Each J. Bouchon wine is certified sustainable by the Wines of Chile Sustainability Code. The winery practices sustainable farming along with use of horse-plowed fields and dry farming to preserve their historic vineyards. About the winemaking: Pais Salvaje blanco is a wine born from a discovery within J Bouchon’s Pais ‘jungle’ vines (see photo at top of blog for shot of actual "vineyard"). After their first harvest of Pais Salvaje red in 2015, they realized that certain clusters of these wild vines were much lighter in color than others. They decided to harvest and vinify these lighter clusters separately. The wine is fermented and aged for 6 months in an ancient tinaja (clay amphora) with native yeast with no filtration. Tasting Notes: This is a wine of character. Copper yellow in color with fruity aromas of green apple and pear with a hint of earthy funk and white pepper. In the mouth it is very juicy and savory, with a long finish. Winemaker: Christian Sepúlveda Price: $23 bottle / $248.40 case Suggested Food Pairings: Enjoy with grilled fish, light sauced pasta or a fresh summer salad.
Learn more