Club Corner
April 2025 Rosé Club
Côtes du Rhône Rosé The Côtes du Rhône region has a winemaking history that dates back to before Roman times. Its wines, particularly those from the right bank, were favored by monarchs and the papal community in Avignon during the schism. By the mid-1600s, the Côte du Rhône on the right bank had established regulations to ensure the quality of its wines. In 1737, the king mandated that barrels of wine transported from the nearby river port of Roquemaure, located 12 km north of Avignon on the left bank, should bear the letters CDR to create a system for protecting their provenance. These early regulations laid the groundwork for what would eventually become the nationwide AOC system overseen by the INAO. Approximately a century later, the name evolved to Côtes du Rhône when wines from the left bank were incorporated into the appellation. Full official recognition was granted by a High Court ruling in 1937, with subsequent revisions to the rules occurring in 1996 and 2001 to adapt to new production conditions. M. Chapoutier is one of the most renowned wine producers in the Rhône Valley of France, with a history deeply rooted in the region's viticulture and a strong commitment to biodynamic winemaking. The Chapoutier family's connection to winemaking dates back to 1808, in Tain-l'Hermitage, a small town in the northern Rhône Valley. The family initially operated as négociants (wine merchants), but they quickly became known for producing high-quality wines, particularly from the prestigious Hermitage appellation. Michel Chapoutier took over the business in 1990, and his leadership marked a transformative period. He introduced biodynamic viticulture, focused on single-vineyard expressions, and emphasized low intervention winemaking and minimal use of new oak, preserving purity of fruit and terroir. Fun fact: M. Chapoutier was one of the first wineries to use Braille on wine labels, starting in 1996. This was inspired by Michel Chapoutier's admiration for Maurice Monier de la Sizeranne (a blind man and wine lover from Hermitage) and reflects a broader commitment to inclusion and respect. Domaine de la Solitude wine estate is part of one of the most ancient families in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, tracing its lineage back to the 15th century. In the 17th century, Hélène Barberini, who hailed from the renowned Tuscan family of the same name, tied the knot with Claude Martin, the proprietor of a vineyard in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Their grandson played a pivotal role in elevating “La Solitude” by introducing the first label for the Appellation. Consequently, “le Vin de la Solitude” became synonymous with quality and began its journey to international markets, showcasing an exceptional terroir. Eight generations later, the estate remains family-owned and is currently managed by Florent Lancon. Think Pink! Carrie Upson- General Manager M. Chapoutier Belleruche Rosé 2023 Region: AOP Côtes-du-Rhône, France About the Vineyard: Planted mainly in stony-marl soils and on clay-limestone slopes, these soils are porous with a steady and regular water supply. They warm up quickly in the spring and help the grapes to reach perfect maturity. About the winemaking: Comprised of a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault, the juice comes from a direct pressing and then is cold settled. The alcoholic fermentation is carried out at low temperature (16°C). Constant protection from oxygen to preserve the wine’s aromatic potential. Tasting notes: An expressive wine with aromas of apricot, fennel and floral scents. The wine's roundness is a perfect match for its freshness and the finish reveals subtle notes of aniseed. “"a dry, mellow and succulent rosé" with "plenty of small berries, melon and mild spices on the nose.” 91 Points James Suckling Winemaker: Michel Chapoutier Price per bottle/Price per case: $18.99 Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled and roasted white meats, fish and shellfish, salads. Perfect for picnics with mild creamy cheeses. La Solitude Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2023 Region: Côtes du Rhône AOC, Rhône Valley, France About the Vineyard: The vineyard is cultivated with the greatest respect for nature and people. The grapes come from terroirs made of sands and clay-limestone gravels located at high altitude, between 300 and 400 meters above sea level. About the winemaking: The grapes are harvested at night. They are directly pressed after harvest. After settling, the must is fermented with natural yeasts in concrete tanks at 18° C. The wine is then aged on fine lees for 4 months. Tasting notes: “A delicious, supple and refined rosé made of 40% grenache, 40% cinsault and 20% syrah. Notes of tangerines, small berries, stones and wild herbs. Medium-bodied with a well-rounded, subtle texture. Bright and precise with a beautiful finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink now. “ 91 Points james Suckling Winemaker: Florent Lancon Price per bottle/Price per case: $19.99 btl Suggested Food Pairing: Ideal as an aperitif with an anchoïade, aubergine caviar, but also with a cod with aioli, stuffed calamari, grilled lamb chops. Delicious with all summer recipes.
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May 2024 Rosé of the Month Club
Château La Nerthe Every so often, I have the pleasure of being invited to winemaker lunches, where a visiting vigneron hosts wine buyers and showcases their wines alongside some fabulous food. Last week I was fortunate to attend one such event at Spruce with Rémi Jean from Château La Nerthe, and I was super impressed by the entire line up. As a matter of fact, I liked them so much that I bought both of their rosés for this month’s club! Purchased by the Tulle de Villefranche family in 1560, the historic Château was built in 1736, making Château La Nerthe one of the very oldest estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They were also among the first to bottle it their own wine, starting in 1784, and export it outside of France. They also pioneered the practice of de-stemming 100% of their grapes prior to vinification in the 19th century, by which point theirs was the most expensive wine from Southern Rhone. In 1870, the Tulle de Villefranche family sold the property to the Joseph Ducos family, in part due to the devastation caused to the vineyards by phylloxera. The Ducos family made their mark on Chateau la Nerthe’s history by replanting the vineyard on grafted phylloxera-resistant rootstock and by planting new, local grape varieties; 10 of the 13 permitted varietals were planted. They maintained ownership of the property until 1941 when Château La Nerthe was bought at an auction by the Leclerc and Motte families. By 1985, Château La Nerthe had become dilapidated and was put up for sale by the Dereumaux family and purchased by the Richard family in partnership with David and Foillard negociants. Their goal for the estate was to revive the original values of excellence and innovation. A complete renovation of the estate took place and much of the vineyards were replanted. In 1991, Château La Nerthe was able to expand their holdings with the purchase of 54 acres of vines, which helped to create one of the largest estates in the Southern Rhône with 230 acres. In 1998, the vineyard was certified organic. Rémi Jean joined the Chateau la Nerthe team in late 2019 and has been placed in charge of the estate and its winemaking. He grew up in a family of farmers in Provence, and received his degree in winemaking and agricultural engineering at Ecole Nationale Supérieure Agronomique in Montpellier. Rémi began his career in the wine cellars of Languedoc, spending one harvest there, after which he moved to Cairanne, a Côtes du Rhône Villages Cru, to work as assistant winemaker. From 2004 to 2007, he was cellar master and winemaker for Maison Louis Jadot in Beaujolais under the helm of Jacques Lardiere. Beginning with the mentorship of Jacques and through first-hand experience over the years, Rémi has learned that the quality of the wine begins with the quality of the grape and level of care and skill in vineyard management. He practices minimal intervention in the cellar and in winemaking, while keeping informed of the latest technology, and believing that it should be employed only when needed. Rémi Jean has had a long partnership with the Richard Family Wineries, previously working as General Manager for their Bordeaux properties, Château de Corcelles and Château des Tours. Think Pink! Carrie Upson- General Manager Château La Nerthe Prieuré de Montézargues Tavel 2022 Region: Tavel AOC, Rhône Valley, France About the Vineyard: A historic vineyard, the Prieuré de Montézargues was originally a monastery dating from 1199. The property covers 84 acres and is sheltered from the Mistral wind by the Montagne Noire mountain range. The original stone priory buildings blend seamlessly into the landscape, forming a micro-terroir and the unique personality of the Montézargues estate wines. This micro-terroir is composed of sandy soils covered by a layer of ‘galets’ - large, round, well-worn stones that were carried down from the Alps by glaciers during the last ice age. About the winemaking: Grapes are hand-harvested early in the morning and carefully sorted. The grapes undergo direct pressing in a pneumatic press for three hours. After fermentation at a low temperature, the wine is blended and aged on fine lees for four months in stainless steel vats. Grenache Noir, Blanc & Gris (50%), Mourvèdre (15%), Cinsault (15%), Syrah (10%), Clairette (10%). Tasting notes: A bright cherry pink, this Tavel rosé shows aromas of ripe peaches, strawberries and orange peel. On the palate, this complex and balanced wine has notes of anise and grapefruit with a mineral streak. It has good length and finishes with zesty lime notes. Winemaker: Rèmi Jean Price per bottle/Price per case: $21.99 btl/237.50 Suggested Food Pairing: Seared tuna, grilled fish, tomato salad Château La Nerthe “Les Cassagnes” Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2022 Region: Côtes du Rhône AOC, Rhône Valley, France Harvest notes: The 2022 vintage in France was marked by very hot temperatures and severe drought in all vineyards. There were no climatic events in the vineyards, but the harvest began early. Overall, the quantity obtained was normal despite the heat wave. About the winemaking: Hand-harvested grapes are carefully sorted once they arrive in the cellar, and then undergo direct pressing in a pneumatic press for three hours. The wine is fermented in temperature-controlled tanks at a low temperature to maintain its freshness, and ages for four months on fine lees in stainless steel vats. Vineyards are certified AB Organic. GRAPES: Grenache (60%), Mourvèdre (30%), Cinsault (20%) Tasting notes: “A fruity nose with lots of apricots, peaches and brown sugar. Medium body with creamy texture and mid-palate volume. Velvety and generous with a lush finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.” 92 Points JS Winemaker: Rèmi Jean Price per bottle/Price per case: $16.99 btl/$183.49 cs Suggested Food Pairing: Charcuterie platters, goat cheese terrine, grilled chicken marinated with olive oil, lemon, and thyme.
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July 2023 Wine of the Month
In the wine world, sometimes it seems like all roads do, in fact, lead to Rhône. Named for the Rhône river, which flows for 500 miles from the Swiss Alps to the Mediterranean, the Rhône Valley wine region begins in central France, just south of Lyon and follows the water’s path to the sea. Its 150 miles encompass 70,000 hectares under vine across more than 30 different AOCs. Syrah starts here, and at least two dozen other grapes are generally identified as ‘Rhône varietals.’ Rhonê is also responsible for pioneering all kinds of blends, most famously Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre or GSM, and winemakers the world over - California’s Rhône Rangers for instance - have taken inspiration from the region and sought to echo the power and complexity of its best wines on compatible terroir. Greek settlers planted the first vineyards in Rhône around 400 BC, near present day Marseilles, but it was their Roman successors who laid the groundwork for widespread viticulture in the area. A thousand years later, Pope Clement V moved the Roman Catholic papal seat from Rome to Avignon, and legend suggests that a knight returning from the Crusades built a small chapel on a hill overlooking the river. The “Castle of the Popes” and the small pilgrim’s chapel today stand as respective and enduring symbols for two of the Rhône’s greatest wines, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Hermitage. The former is located in Southern Rhône, the latter in the North - and this bifurcation, North and South, is the most general way the area is divided, as the two parts present a sharp contrast: Northern Rhône is precise and compact, composed of 8 AOCs nestled into 40 miles of steep hillside overlooking the river, and responsible for just 5% of all Rhône wine. Syrah is the only allowable red grape in the region and is grown (along with a minuscule amount of white, mainly Viognier, most notably in the Condrieu AOC) in a cool continental climate, with significant seasonal temperature shifts. Southern Rhône on the other hand, is sprawling and amorphous. As the Rhône river passes Montélimar, the valley flattens and widens and the climate becomes Mediterranean - hot and dry but still heavily influenced by the mistral winds from the Alps. Vineyards begin to take up more of the landscape, extending out from the river banks to encompass much of the surrounding area. There are 12 white and 14 red varietals allowable in Southern Rhône wines, ranging from the near ubiquitous Grenache (Blanc and Rouge) to the almost non-existent Calitor and Picardan. This month we are featuring a selection from each area, both by women winemakers with viticultural roots going back at least three generations in the region. The white is one of the relatively few produced in Northern Rhone, from the Crozes-Hermitage appellation, the largest in the north, 85% of which is planted to Syrah grapes, with the remaining 15% consisting of the white Marsanne and Roussanne varietals. Christelle Betton sticks to the single varietal tradition with this 100% Marsanne bottling, from a single parcel of 30 year old vines. The red is a Cotes-du-Rhone blend by Stephanie Fumoso from 55 year-old, organically certified (mostly) Grenache vines planted in the communes of Vacqueyras and Voiles. Full bodied, slightly floral, with great spice and smooth tannins, it’s an ideal coldest-winter-I ever-spent-was a- summer-in-SF red. Cheers, PlumpJack Wine Team Domaine Christelle Betton Crozes-Hermitage Blanc ‘Elixir’ Region / Country of Origin: Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhone, France About the winemaker: Representing the third generation of her family to have answered the siren call of northern Rhône Syrah, Christelle Betton’s vision is one of pure and refined fruit, inspired by the cool northern Mistral winds and stony personality of her family’s vineyards in La Roche de Glun. Her skills come naturally, having watched her grandfather and father care for their vines, plowing the fields by hand and farming as naturally as possible. Today Christelle farms her land organically, but is not certified; she prefers the flexibility of allowing the earth to tell her what it needs, and when. About the winemaking: A selection of fruit from a single parcel planted in 1985. Soils are alluvial with many “galets roulés” commonly found along the Rhône River valley (especially in Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The area is dry; the family plows their land by hand to train the vines’ roots to dig deep in the rocky soils for nutrients and moisture. Hand-harvested. Pressed directly; fermented in tanks on indigenous yeasts. Aged in tanks for eight months. Tasting Notes: Aromas of white flowers, citrus zest, light spice, crisp pear. Good volume, balanced; clean finish. Winemaker: Christelle Betton Price: $26.99 btl/$291.50 case Suggested Food Pairing: As an aperitif; with soft rind cheese; grilled chicken; air-dried sausages Gour de Chaulé Côtes du Rhône Rouge "La Vigneronne" 2021 Region / Country of Origin: Gigondas, Southern Rhone, France About the Winery: The Domaine Gour de Chaulé, situated in the heart of the village of Gigondas, was founded in 1900 by Eugene Bonfils, the great-grandfather of the current proprietor Stephanie Fumoso. All the wine produced at the estate was sold in bulk to negociants until 1970 when Madame Rolande Beaumet, Eugene’s daughter and Stéphanie’s grandmother, began to bottle a small percentage of the estate’s wine for sale to private clients. Madame Beaumet’s daughter, Aline Bonfils, ascended to the head of the domaine in the early 1980s and it was under the direction of Aline that the tradition of estate bottling expanded significantly. The domaine comprises 15 hectares, 10 of which are within Gigondas with the remaining 5 hectares situated in the surrounding communes of Vacqueyras and Violes. About the winemaking: Dedicated to minimal intervention in the vineyards and winemaking. It is vinified in a similar fashion as the Gigondas except that the élevage is shorter. This is to say that there is an extended cuvaison with stems included, malolactic fermentation occurs, and the wine sees a stay in large foudres (30%) and concrete eggs (70%) before being bottled 18 months after harvest without fining or filtration. Tasting Notes: The aromas are quite pretty, showing ripe cassis, strawberry and black cherry with hints of violet, spice and garrigue. The palate shows peppery ripe fruit, cassis, black plum and strawberry, with earth, spice and tobacco. Winemaker: Stephanie Fumoso Price: $24.99/btl $269.90 case Suggested Food Pairing: Herb-crusted chicken thighs; barbecue pork with a berry-flecked, herbaceous sauce; lamb chops with lentils du Puy
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