Picture the Provence region of southern France and the first images that come to mind will likely involve sun, sand and rosé. The famous Cannes film festival maybe. A beach at least. France’s Mediterranean coast, also known as the Cote D’Azur, has long been synonymous with summer getaways and pink wine. The Provence AOC is responsible for more rosé than any other place on the planet, with the Bandol appellation in particular, representing the world’s most prestigious bottlings. I’m sure it’s a very nice place to be right now.
But if you ever find yourself there this time of the year, make sure and ditch the beach for a minute and venture 60 kilometers inland to Luberon - a great spot to “take a vacation from your vacation” according to European travel maven Rick Steves, and our wine destination this month.
Spanning some 600 square kilometers in central Provence, Luberon is a mountain range and protected national park featuring some of the most picturesque and well preserved hilltop medieval villages In France, fields of vivid lavender sunflowers (in full bloom at the moment), outstanding cuisine and an awesome, unpretentious local wine scene. Situated right on the border between Provence and Rhone, AOC Luberon is relatively new (it was only formally created in 1988 (and was known as Cotes de Luberon until 2009), so it tends to exist in the shadow of its more famous neighbors. Viticulture in the area dates back to the Greeks however and, having flourished and waned over the intervening centuries (the Avignon Papacy during the Middle Ages was one early apogee), is enjoying a deserved renaissance at the moment. After all, the Mediterranean climate - hot, dry summer days and chilly alpine nights - is ideal for grape growing; the soil, a blend of Miocene sands, limestone, and red clay, is rich, diverse, and specific to the area; and the vines…well, the vines aren’t as old as you might think on account of the infamous frost of 1956, wherein a historically unprecedented temperature drop managed to kill most of them.
But two out of three was enough to lure Sylvain Morey, scion of a 400 year old Burgundy winemaking dynasty and our red producer this month, to Luberon in the 90’s to make his name and wine separate from the family legacy. Our white, by contrast, comes from Chateau La Canorgue, a family and label that has farmed its estate in Luberon for 200 years. Both wines are blends, as all AOC Luberon bottlings must be, are of shockingly good quality for the price points, as all Luberon wine should be, and produced organically with sustainability in mind. That last part is of course, an important component of any winemaking operation anywhere, but it is especially central in a spot like Luberon that, despite the long history, is just getting started making its mark on the oenophile map.
Cheers,
The PlumpJack Wine Team
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Sylvain Morey Luberon Panorama Rouge 2024 |
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Region / Country of Origin: AOC Luberon, Provence, France |
About the winery: Sylvain has spent the last few decades establishing his own domaine, Bastide du Claux, located south of Burgundy in the Luberon. His experience working on his own project, combined with the deep knowledge he gained working with his father, has matured Sylvain into a thoughtful and confident vigneron. He is someone who respects the traditional manner in which his father worked but also brings his own sensibility to the table. He plans to split his time between Chassagne and Luberon working in the romantic mold-filled cellar in which his father has always worked. Upon his first releases in 2014, his mark on the wines are evident. About the winemaking: 40% Syrah + 35% Grenache Noir + 15% Cinsault + 10% Carignan. ECOCERT-certified organic viticulture Manual harvest Natural vinification Long aging. Limestone subsoil and an average altitude of around 320 metres elevation. Hand-harvested; total destemming, no crushing; spontaneous fermentation; gentle maceration for a dozen days at between 20 and 25° C; blending of free-run and press juices. Tasting Notes: Well balanced and fresh with lively red and black fruits flavors wreathed by savory, herbaceous and slightly peppery notes. Very good and versatile with food. |
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Winemaker: Sylvain Morey |
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Price: $25.99 |
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Suggested Food Pairing: Summer BBQs, roast poultry, stews, grilled vegetables, Portobello burgers |
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Chateau La Canorgue Luberon Blanc 2025 |
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Region / Country of Origin: AOC Luberon, Provence, France
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About the Winery: Château La Canorgue is the quintessential image of Provence. Situated just below the hilltop village of Bonnieux, the idyllic 17th century manor has been home to six generations of the Margan family. In fact, the estate is so picturesque that in 2006, the movie adaptation of Peter Mayle’s best-selling novel, A Good Year, was filmed here. But long before the château, this historic property was the site of a Roman villa known for its natural spring. Truffle oaks, mulberry trees, olive groves, and a 200-year-old cherry orchard thrive here—even in the driest of years. Jean-Pierre Margan and his daughter, Natalie, farm 42 hectares of terraced vineyards, all of which have been farmed organically since 1978. About the winemaking: The grapes are harvested by hand. The white varietals are harvested early in the morning or at night to preserve the freshness of the grapes. Both whites and rosés are pressed gently and the must is left to settle in the fermentation tanks at a cool 16°C. The Margans age each cuvee differently, dividing them between stainless steel, foudres, and demi-muids for up to eight months before fining, filtering, and bottling. The wonderful quality, approachability and value of the line-up make these wines worthy rivals of their more expensive counterparts in the southern Rhône. The Luberon Blanc is a blend of Bourbelanc, Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne. Tasting Notes: The nose is of fresh cut hay, some exotic fruit notes, citrus and a touch of apples. In the mouth it is plenty rich with just enough of a spicy edge to make one think of a fine Châteauneuf du Pâpe blanc. Backed up by firm acidity and more mineral backbone than one usually finds in a southern white. |
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Winemaker: Jean-Pierre & Natalie Margan |
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Price: $24.99 |
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Suggested Food Pairing: Grilled or baked fish with herbs, Shellfish and refined seafood platters, Provençal vegetable dishes, risottos and goat cheeses. |
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