Plump Jack

Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho Contacto

"The 2016 Alvarinho Contacto is unoaked and comes in at 13% alcohol. This is a very different Alvarinho than the Muros Antigos reviewed this issue. I liked them about equally well, but for different reasons. The latter shows off its fine grip and zest. This hardly lacks that—it is rather intense—but it has a bit more personality, better aromatics and a hint of green and grass. Tasting them together and young, I'm hard pressed to decide. One issue will be how you feel about green nuances. That is certainly more prominent here. I like the extra personality, but your mileage may differ. It is just personal taste. As this lingered on the palate, I finally gave it a slight edge, at least for myself. It is a terrific Contacto, mostly on par with the brilliant 2015, not quite as ripe, perhaps, but even zestier while maintaining a bit of understatement. Sourced from vines over 12 years in age, there were 120,000 bottles produced—making this pretty easily available for a bottling that has often been exceptional (as compared to Mendes' upper-level wines that have very small quantities, like the Curtimenta)." -Robert Parker